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No Signals, Horn Or Brake Light, Not The Fuse

20 posts Started 15 Apr 2014 Last recovered post 15 Apr 2014 Wayback Machine snapshot 30 Apr 2014

#1

I have been searching for two days abd haven't find anything that directly relates to my issues.  

Background:

Its a 2005 vfr, 20k miles.

I had it apart pretty extensively this winter. Replaced the fast idle unit (wax valve) and thermostat, and added an aux fuse block that I took out of my jeep before I sold it. The block has only 3 connections to the bike... direct to battery, ground to frame and a switched accessory wire that flips on the relay for the block when the key is switched on.  It does not use the  fuze for the blinkers, horn and brake light.

Took it out for the maiden voyage Saturday, get to the end of my street, flip the switch for my blinker and nothing happens.  Figure I just missed a connection putting it back together think nothing of it abd use hand signals for the rest of the ride.  Come to find out the blinkers, horn and brake light do not work.  

The fuse is not blown, I checked it, and replaced it, twice. Still nothing.  There IS power to the fuse block.  The marker lights work, when you flip the blinker switch, the marker light goes off,  but nothing blinks.  I have checked every connection I can see, everything is completely apart abd I am at a total loss.  It's not the bulbs, the wires that would control the blinking get zero power when the switch it flipped.

Any ideas where to even start looking next?  I am feeling completely defeated.


#2
Pull the switch housing apart and check for cracks. I had to replace mine for the same reason.
#3

Does your high beam work?  Maybe you somehow disconnected the left switch case wire bundle and the brake light is just bulbs.  The brake lights don't activate with either lever engaged?


#5

Pull the switch housing apart and check for cracks. I had to replace mine for the same reason.

Had the housing apart tonight to check the inner workings, no cracks detected, no loose wires

Does your high beam work?  Maybe you somehow disconnected the left switch case wire bundle and the brake light is just bulbs.  The brake lights don't activate with either lever engaged?

High beam does work, hazards do not. The two connections coming off of the left switch pod are the first thing I checked, mouth clean.  I have power going up to the switch pod from the main harness, but now can't recall which wire it is on.  Have to look at the writing diagram again tonight.

Hello   Hello     ????


#6

Check  the  aux  supply .  The  aux  fuse  block   supply  was  from  the  same  circuit  that's  not  working  .  Look  for  a  relay  or  a fuse  blown  fuse  at  the aux  block.  


#7

The auxiliary box that I added?  If so, that still works fine, and the fuse that I used to tap for the auxiliary box is not the same circuit as the signals etc, I used the fuse that is one slot closer to the front of the bike.  Disconnecting that set up didn't yield any resukts either.

Im going to run a volt meter across all the leads in the plug runing up to the switches before I head to work.  Will note which colors have constant power.


#8

Missing ground would make the marker turn off when blinker is on. I'd look for a green ground wire that should be attached to the frame with a screw, there are few of them on the harness, one may be missing or sitting on paint?


#9

I checked the large cluster of ground connections that is directly in front of the battery box which is the only one I touched during the install.  Disconnected, brushed all connections abd reinstalled but I will check it all again.  Thanks for the tip.

Got my volt meter on it quick.  There are 2 connectors going up to the controls from the main harness. One red one with 4 wires, one black one with 8 wires.  NONE of the wires in the red connector have power.  On the black connector, only 2 have power.  One is light blue with a wire stripe and grey dashes.  The other is white with and orange stripe with grey dashes.


#10

found couple different diagrams, one of them suggests it's all on the same fuse, so trace the wire out of fuse box and to the switch pod and check power, probably easier to see if you have power to the brake light switches first, only 2 wires to probe.

I've had broken wires in the harness before, different bikes, most cases after having some major repair or component relocation.


#11

Stock    wiring  or  did  someone  add  a VRFness  harness?


#12

Good call on those brake light switches.  I did check the horn last night because it was staring me in the face, it did NOT appear to have power.

So that means there is a break somewhere after the fuse?  Wouldn't that cause the fuse to blow?  how bad would it be too jump the fuse with a wire and check power on the switches again?


Not sure what the vfrness fix looks like.  Everything looks very original.  Lots of very much tapped up bundles of wires


#13

The  VFRness  harness  had  two  fuse  to  that  circuit .  One  was  hard  to  see .


"ground to frame and a switched accessory wire that flips on the relay for the block when the key is switched on.  It does not use the  fuze for the blinkers, horn and brake light."

What  do  you  have  ground  to  the  frame ?


If  you can  draw  us  a  little  schematic   on  what  you  electrically  added  to  the  bike .


#14

I'll make a photo/ schematic when.I get home tonight and have the bike in front of me.  But basically, the fuze block had to be grounded, so I ran a wire all the way back to where the main ground point is in front of the battery and used a ring connector.  That plus the main power straight to battery and the relay power to the fuse box are the only connections to the bike.  Everything else is stand alone.

I think tonight I will disconnect all of that and see if it has any positive effects, just to rule it out.  

And now that im thinking about it, there may be a vfrness on it.  There was a big rectangular piece electrical taped in the harness near the front left.of the bike.  I assumed.it was a connector, it may be a fuse holder.


#15

You'd know if VFRness is installed - by battery instead of a 30 amp main fuse you'd have two 20 amp fuses (if I recall correctly). Easy to spot.


#16

You'd know if VFRness is installed - by battery instead of a 30 amp main fuse you'd have two 20 amp fuses (if I recall correctly). Easy to spot.

The  VFRness  harness  had  two  fuse  to  that  circuit .  One  was  hard  to  see .


"ground to frame and a switched accessory wire that flips on the relay for the block when the key is switched on.  It does not use the  fuze for the blinkers, horn and brake light."

What  do  you  have  ground  to  the  frame ?


If  you can  draw  us  a  little  schematic   on  what  you  electrically  added  to  the  bike .

Yep   ...


#17

And now that im thinking about it, there may be a vfrness on it.  There was a big rectangular piece electrical taped in the harness near the front left.of the bike.  I assumed.it was a connector, it may be a fuse holder.

The VFRNess installs on the right side because it plugs into the R/R harness. It then routes down the right side of the frame (where the yellow stator wires come out) and then under the rear subframe to the battery.

But we can double check once you get pics up.


#18

Had my creative team at work print me out a large color wiring diagram.  One thing this whole time that has thrown me was the brake lights/ plate not working.  I traced the only common write that I could find between the brake lights abd rear signals, it appears to take a detour through the temp sensor for the fan in the top of the left radiator.  

I DID mess with the sensor when trying to diagnose my thermostat issues.  I removed one of the wires and grounded it to see if I could trip the fan on, which it did.

Is it possible that is not fully plugged back in and somehow messing up the system continuity?  Last time I rode it, it didn't get hot enough to need the fan so I can't confirm (from work still) that its functioning as needed.


#20

No VFRness. one 30 am fuse.

and whatever wiring diagram i got has almost NONE of the same colors... there goes all of my optimism for this evening.

I have ohmed out that they switch for turn signals does work as it should, great.  the fuse is getting power, and the fuse is functioning, ie also sending power out of the fuse box.  i am NOT getting power at what i believe should be the wire that sends power INTO the switch on the bar... so somewhere in the 2 feet between the fuse and the first junction, i apparently have a break.


End of thread · 20 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 30 Apr 2014