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Completed My Lsl Handlebar Conversion

15 posts Started 27 Sep 2014 Last recovered post 14 Oct 2014 Wayback Machine snapshot 29 Oct 2014

#1

Well I finished up the LSL Bar conversion this afternoon so I thought I would post up some pictures and do a little write up for those of you that have not done one yet.

When I first got the kit and opened the box I thought, "This is all I get for the money?" That was my first impression but after getting it on the bike, I no longer have that feeling.

It was not a big deal to install. I did pull the fairings off to make it easier to reroute things. I unplugged harnesses and rerouted on both sides. There is plenty of harness length to route them however you like.

I did not have to do a thing with the front brake hose at all.

I did have to take the clutch line off and reroute it to come up the back side of the fork tube. It would have worked but I did not like how tight the line would get pulled at full lock. (Plus it got in the way of my 12v plug.)

I tried everything I could think of to route the throttle cables where they did not have to run in front of the tank and they probably would have been okay but again, they were tight so I put them in front of the tank to give them a little more room. A few tie-wraps in the right places and they do not touch the tank at all.

New grips and new bar ends and she is done!

Pulled some measurements before and after the install. It is approximately 2.5"-2.75" of rise and 2" of pull back. You could get more rise by sliding the clamps up the fork tubes but then there would be contact with the upper fairing.

The way I have everything positioned, there is no contact at all with fairings or the tank. Nothing rubs and it all looks better than I thought it would. I was a little nervous that it might look cheap on the bike but it doesn't. Overall I am happy with the look of the final project.

I did take it for a very short blast around the neighborhood and all I can say at the moment it that it does not feel like the same bike at all! Not in a bad way but I am certainly going to have to get used to it. I have my daughter this week so it may be another week before I can give it a good ride to see how it does in the real world. I do think it is going to work out well.

Included are some pictures for your viewing pleasure.

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#2
Very nice install! Looks stock
#3
i have heard that ST1100 throttle cables are longer, but I've never had a set in my hands to compare.
#4

i have heard that ST1100 throttle cables are longer, but I've never had a set in my hands to compare.


Some are maybe 2" longer, but not all. There was a year model change where they used the longer ones so be sure to figure out the correct years.
BR
#5

Thanks for your write-up, I might finally get motivated to install my LSL kit.

Fwiw, in this 2011 thread, Arno says ST1300 cables are the proper replacement:

http://www.vfrdiscus...-bars/?p=760183


#6

Took my daughter on the bike around the neighborhood today for only about 15 minutes or so but I think this is going to be a nice set up. I may play a little with adjusting the bars, just rolling them a tad one way or the other, but that is about it.   One thing I really do like is it seems like I can look over my shoulder much easier to check for cars.

As soon as I get a chance to do a ride on them in the next week or so, I will be sure to do a follow up on my impression of them.


#7

Ha, I've been working on this install today.

2006 ST1300 throttle cables should work.  BikeBandit has them. I had an order for a set (roughly $50 after shipping) but canceled after rerouting my throttle cables as described in this video: [video: http://youtube.com/embed/W4mgx_W6lYs?html5=1&fs=1]  If the order goes through or I otherwise find my cables are too short I'll measure the actual length and post it.


#8

I saw that video too but I don't like the way his cables run. It looks like his run on top of the frame and then I assume they drop down with a hard bend to where you hook them up.

You can kind of see how I ran mine but I went down and under the frame, kind of how they were run originally, and straight to where they hook up. And this way did not require removing the plastic cover that he removed. I also have no contact on anything where this guy seems to have some. Guess it is all in how you position stuff.


#9

When I put them on my 5th gen, I wondered why Honda didn't offer something similar as a factory option.

Most excellent. :cool:


#10

Rigger, yeah, over the steering head and then down and under the frame seems to be the way to go.  Thanks.


#11

I used these throttle cables for my Renthal superbike bar conversion. About 2-3" longer, $16 apiece from Partzilla.com

[image: 3Yimvz.jpg]


#12

Those part nos. correspond to the throttle cables for a 2008 ST 1300.


#13

Got to take the bike for about a 2-3 hour ride today so I thought I might write a little update about the bars.

I took the bike on some back roads, a little bit of higher speed 4 lane road, (about 70mph) and some stop and go today for a little mix of everything I normally ride. I can say that I truly like the bar swap. No hand pain at all. No hands going to sleep. No wrist aching at all. I noticed no negative effects in the turns either, at least for the way I ride anyway, which is not all that hard. Hard breaking feels a little different for some reason but I think it has more to do with the fact that I just need to get used to the new riding position. One thing I have discovered is that it is easier to look over my shoulder to check for cars. To me that is a good safety advantage to the bars.

I did loose better than 60% of the visibility from my mirrors. Earlier in the week I ordered a set of the 1" mirror extenders to help out with that. They were actually sitting in the mailbox today when I got home from my ride! Would have been nice to have them on it for today. I did bolt them on and rode it just around the neighborhood for 5 minutes and it looks like they will give me back about 90% or more of my mirrors. I need to go for a ride with my jacket on and adjust them a little better but I think they are going to do the trick.

I am still running the stock seat and I have had plans on wanting to replace it with a Sargent but now I am thinking I am going to need to do that sooner than I thought. My hands, wrist and back all feel good but my ass starts hurting much sooner. I thought this would probably happen too but its not a big deal since like I said before, I was planning on a seat mod soon.

Overall I am really happy with it and I think once I have replaced the seat, the hole bike will come together and be a really comfortable ride for short or longer rides but still be fun and good looking.


#14
Thanks VFROr, I used those cables too. Part numbers: 17910-MCS-D90 17920-MCS-D90   These are exactly the same as the stock cables but are 2-3" longer.  They allow the lines to be routed in the stock position.
#15
Thanks VFROr, I used those cables too. Part numbers: 17910-MCS-D90 17920-MCS-D90   These are exactly the same as the stock cables but are 2-3" longer.  They allow the lines to be routed in the stock position.

Welcome, they were perfect for my mod, no tension at all at full lock yet no big surplus length to manage.


End of thread · 15 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 29 Oct 2014