Ok, I have read all of this: http://www.vfrdiscus...ent-vtec/page-6 and my consensus is that this may be something done more than once. SO, with this in mind, would manual tensioners be better? APE has them. Who has used them? Any drawbacks? The advantage being that they look to be low maintenance, but also, how do you know when it's time to do them again?
A couple people mentioned what to me sounds like they took their stock tensioners and loosened them and then tightened them or something along those lines. Am I correct in this? If so, has this worked or was it lipstick on a pig?
Several members have gone this route with no issues.
The automatics are easier to deal with, if they work as they are supposed to. The drawback with manuals, they tend to develop leaks easily, and keeping an eye on adjusting them. However the manuals don't have loose parts that can make noise. That's really been the issue with the wind up type automatics on the vfr.
so its a tossup kind of, depending
I've been re-reading the CCT threads recently, wondering when I'm going to have to deal with that issue. About 1/2 of me says "screw it" wanting an excuse to make the 5th gen engine swap as HighSideNZ did and posted here recently. It would certainly keep the CCT's quiet and replace it with a far more desirable sound. On the other hand, the realistic 1/2 of me knows it's not for the faint of heart . . .
:lobby:
The factory replacements are not that hard to install - takes about 1.5 hours tops. I can't imagine dicking around lifting the tank and getting in there to adjust them manually when they need it. The spring-loaded factory ones make more sense for that reason. And if you only have to replace them every 70,000-80,000 kilometres (50,000 miles), I don't see any advantage.
[video: https://youtube.com/embed/F_VRhY739YI?html5=1&fs=1] For what it's worth here is a cell phone video of front then rear. In person the front seems quiet and the rear had more of a rattle..
There's really no way to tell(to be sure) even if your issue was louder, without a stethoscope. The vid is showing some very mild noise to me, its just to hard to tell just listening in the open like that.
Yeah, I agree. I unfortunately don't know what it sounds like with or without a bad CCT through a stethoscope. I'll monitor it closely and see where it goes. Gotta do an oil change soon. I'll see if that makes any difference.
I think I ran my first or second set another 10-15k miles after the ticking started. It sounds like a Rod Knock when they get really bad, but it's only making noise. Doesn't seem to effect anything other then mild embarrassment when you pull up to a stop and it's Clacking Loudly.
3rd set now, or should I say 4th or 5th CTT at 105k miles. I started just replacing the noisy one after the first set instead of in pairs(usually front) and think the last rear went another 20k miles before clacking after changing out the front one.
:wheel:
BR
That sounds like the 'ticking' of the CCTs. It doesn't sound that bad from the video. Mine got to the point at about 75,000 kilometres that it was an actual click/clacking at times - hearing the chain move. So I replaced them - then it was quiet again.
What you'll hear is click , click ,click click click click , put the stethoscope probe near the cct area, It can be hard to tell which bank even with a stethoscope, especially if the noise is intermittent which it normally is , and its not there when you try and find it.
Best thing to do start the bike cold , on the side stand and just let it idle for 5 minutes, and shortly after around that time, it should begin clacking and you can track it.
what oil are you installing , I'll check my list as to a known clacker oil.
What you'll hear is click , click ,click click click click , put the stethoscope probe near the cct area, It can be hard to tell which bank even with a stethoscope, especially if the noise is intermittent which it normally is , and its not there when you try and find it.
Best thing to do start the bike cold , on the side stand and just let it idle for 5 minutes, and shortly after around that time, it should begin clacking and you can track it.
what oil are you installing , I'll check my list as to a known clacker oil.
I am running Rotella T6. I am thinking of trying the Castrol Power RS Racing 4T oil, or Mobile 1. It's in the back of my mind to see if that makes a difference, but I am going to change the tensioner(s) first and enlarge the gasket hole as mentioned in other threads. Mine has gotten noisier and clicks noticeably when it is cold.
Where is the best place to find the factory tensioners at? My experience with changing out the timing chain on a Saturn I had was that aftermarket parts were never quite right. Luckily, our VFRs don't require partial disassembly of the engine!!
Edited by Lint, 12 March 2015 - 02:02 PM.For those of us who just jump on the bike and ride, what is a Cct/CTT or whatever?
It's the Cam Chain Tensioner - 1 for each bank of cylinders. That's why they're referred to as front and rear. I'm baffled as to why Honda can't make them more durable. Makes me want to go back to my 5th gen . . .
Just do the gasket modification, so you don't end up with the same issue, the next day or the next month, it seems improving the oil flow is paying dividends thus far. Increase the oil port in the gasket. from .5mm to ( 2.75mm to 3mm).
it's strange that the usual fix is just repalcing the CCT's with new ones.
Did the noisy ones that were replaced look to have any wear or damage to them at all??
Sure replacing them works most of the time, but replacing them 4, 5 times just does not sound right anymore.
I guess the permanent fix to this continues to elude VFR owners.......... (Do the aftermarket manual type adjuster work??)
Edited by Beck, 12 March 2015 - 06:41 PM.Provided they work the same as the ones on a CBR, one of two things usually happens. Either the spring or mechanizm wears out, or they get gummed up. If it's just gummed up, a good cleaning will resolve the issue. Otherwise replacment is required.
On the I4 engine, the APE mechanical unit is a good option, since adjustments are a piece of cake. Not sure how true that is on a V4 engine.