Cam Chain Tensioner Replacement, Vtec

http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237352111-S.jpg

IMPORTANT: This �how to� is based on the Honda Factory manual technique for the tensioners replacement. If you read down a few replies you will see that a number of people have been successful at replacing the front tensioner without pulling the throttle bodies.



Cam Chain Tensioner replacement, Vtec
By rad

Why:
Because it is one of the few Honda weak points, common to many models, and mine at just about 30K miles were making a loud racket once the bike was warmed up. Why did I write this up? I'm not a pro wrench, just a home mechanic who has gained a lot of knowledge these last few years from these types of threads and I like giving a little bit back when I can, here, and on the other forums I hang out on.

What:
There are two tensioners, both on the right side of the engine facing rearward. The forward one is located on the back of the right front cylinder and underneath the throttle bodies. Yes, the throttle bodies need to be removed to replace that tensioner. The rear one is located behind the right rear cylinder and can be accessed by just removing the semi circular heat shield located behind the right foot peg mount.



Skill level needed:
It is not a hard job but it is also not for the complete n00b wrencher. As with most machines, there is plenty you can screw up if you don't pay attention to what you are doing and you fail to think everything through. I wrote this with the fairly green (not Al Gore kind of green) wrencher in mind.

Disclaimer:
Everything you do to your bike, no matter what I write or anybody else states anyplace else is 100% your responsibility, just like when you climb on your bike and go for a ride. So, read everything here, the manual, and make your determination if it makes sense and how you want to proceed.

Tools needed:
Other than your normal assortment of smaller metric sockets and the hex drivers there are a couple of specific tools needed. Along with sockets and the few tools listed below I also recommend you invest the $'s and buy a factory shop manual.
� Torque wrench that reads accurately down to 12 Newton /Meters
� Loooooong Phillips screwdriver, 10" or so, #2 head works well, My 8" one barely reached. I needed one more inch; I know, my wife has been tell'n me that for years�.
� Cam Chain tensioner release tool. How cool is this, it comes with the new cam chain tensioners. Save this tool for it is the same one you need to make if you do your own valve adjustments.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237355790-S.jpg
� Good flash light; and if you are working alone, don't laugh, but a camping head lamp is invaluable during the work underneath the throttle bodies.
� A bike lift sure helps. If your cheap like me consider the fact that the money you save on labor doing this job will not only pay for a Harbor Freight lift, you will have some $ left over
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237350604-S.jpg

Wrenching aids:

Good music always helps, hard to beat these guys,
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/238547867-S.jpg

This goes well with a bike and a garage. Please note; the amount of use of this wrenching aid can be inversely proportional to quality workmanship.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/238547886-S.jpg

Parts needed:
The tensioner is the big ticket item, about $100 each, you need two. There are a couple of other assorted pieces that Honda recommends replacing at the same time; you can decide if you want to replace them. I just replaced them all, I was in there anyway and they were relatively cheap.
2 Tensioners
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237352111-S.jpg
2 Gaskets
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237351575-S.jpg
2 Tensioner Washers
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237351807-S.jpg
2 Tensioner bolts
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237351700-S.jpg
2 Tensioner Buckets, (real name?)
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237351953-S.jpg

Tips before you start:
I never trust my memory! I have found it very easy to forget where a bolt or washer goes or where a cable or wire is routed, just a few hours later when it is reassembly time. Solution, for me I do one or more of the following on disassembly.

1. I use my digital camera and photograph every step, especially electrical wires and hose routing for quick reference upon reassembly.
2. I zip-loc bag and mark loose parts
3. I have a hard bound note book I keep detailed notes and sometimes drawings in, if needed.
4. I apply painters tape to each connection I take apart with matching numbers written on them.
5. My favorite; I just thread the screw, bolt or nut right back where I just remove it from. That way it can't get lost and it is right in place for when I reassemble the fitting.


Step 1
Lets start easy; the rear tensioner:

Remove the black metal semicircular heat shield located just behind the drivers right foot peg mount. It is held on by three bolts. Remove the top heat shield bolt first.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237352572-S.jpg

The manual does not state this, but I had to remove the right driver's peg assembly, two large hex bolts, to get the other two heat shield bolts off.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237353888-S.jpg

This is because the lower two bolts, that hold the heat shield in place, have loose nuts and washers located behind the shield. Here I'm reaching behind the shield with a 10mm box end wrench to remove them.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237354176-S.jpg

Once you have the three bolts for the heat shield removed it pulls out with a gentle tug for the top of the shield bends over the top of the exhaust pipe.
Zip tie the foot peg assembly out of the way
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237354299-S.jpg

Look, there is the rear tensioner
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237354479-S.jpg

Remove the sealing bolt and sealing washer.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237354639-S.jpg

Remove the cam chain stopper tool from the new cam chain tensioner. Hold the rubber ended shaft with one hand so that when you pull the tool straight out it does not allow the shaft too spring out rapidly. If you have not figured out yet what the tool does, here it is; it retracts the spring loaded shaft on the tensioner, and locks it into place during removal and installation. The tool is inserted part way, rotated clockwise until it stops turning then the shoulder section is inserted the rest of the way after you line it up with one of the slots.

Insert the tool, rotate it until it stops and lock it into place in the still installed tensioner; I just used one of the tools I made when I did my valve adjustment.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237354955-S.jpg

Remove the two mounting bolts. It may be just me but I prefer to ease off each bolt a little bit at a time going back and forth between them when ever I remove cast type fittings.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237355101-S.jpg

Pull the tensioner out, pay close attention to the gasket and how the dimple on the "ear" is oriented, mine was with the bumped out part facing the cylinder.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237355239-S.jpg

Install the tool back into the new tensioner. Place the metal bucket (new or old one) on the end of the tensioner; put a new gasket on, just like the old one was. Insert the tensioner into place and tighten the mounting bolts. Nowhere in the manual does it specifically state the cam chain tensioner mounting bolts torque specs. There are two sections that make reference to cam chain tensioner flange bolts and guide bolts, these are both bolts located inside the engine, not the ones we are dealing with. I felt very comfortable using the standard 12nm noted in the VFR manual as the general spec for 6mm, and 8mm flange bolts. No thread loc is indicated anywhere.

Remove the locking tool and install the sealing bolt and sealing washer. I did not use 12nm here, my gut told me the lack of threads (very short bolt length) that 12nm was too much. It is just a seal, so I snuged it about "that" much. I just trusted my well worn Calibrated Wrist Wrench.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/118004664-S-1.jpg

A tip here, when you are working with small fasteners I find it best to use the smallest drivers that will do the job, � " works well here and helps prevent you having to post a thread titled something like, ( Is it hard to Heli-Coil?)

Ya did it! The rear is done and now you can reinstall the shield and foot peg bracket.

Front tensioner:
Ok, this one is not hard but if your kind of new to wrenching it may get a bit scary as you start to eviscerate and disembowel your beast. "The only thing to fear, is fear itself", just like our 32nd Prez said.

Remove the seat, This may be just me, a hold over from wrenching cars and bikes for years, I always remove the negative battery lead and zip tie it out of the way when I'm messing too far into an engine, removing gas tanks, or plugging and unplugging a number of electrical connections.

Remove both main fairing side panels; keep track of the 4 different types of fasteners and where they go back.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237351400-S.jpg

Drain the engine coolant using the drain plug located on lower portion of the water pump on the lower left side of the engine. Remove the radiator cap to do this. I had just changed my coolant a few thousand miles ago, so I saved my coolant in clean containers so I could just reuse it.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237352721-S.jpg
Be ready when you open the radiator cap after the drain plug is out, the coolant leaves the bike much like the proverbial saying "Like a cow piss'n on a flat rock".
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237353127-S.jpg

Hopefully you ran your bike down to almost no gas; it just makes handling the gas tank easier. Remove the tank, first the two bolts by the triple clamp. Suggestion, place your hand under the tank bolt holes as you lift the front of the tank and remove both the long shouldered washers now before you hear a slight metallic clank as one falls out into the dark recesses of the frame and engine�Don't ask�..
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237350969-S.jpg

Lift the tank, support it, I do it with a motorcycle cargo net hung from above so I can adjust it to any lift level I want. You can also use your tool kit tools as outlined in your owner's manual.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237356014-S.jpg

Remove the upper tank cable fastener.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237356160-S.jpg

Disconnect the two electrical connections under the tank at the rear by the fuel filter access plate. One is the fuel level sensor, the blue one, and the other is for the fuel pump, the brown one.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237356298-S.jpg

Pop the vent hose and over flow tube out from under the bendable metal keeper connected to the tank.. Rotate the tank 180 degrees and place it on the frame rails after you first place a thick towel down to protect the frame and tank.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237356762-S.jpg

Remove the air cleaner cover screws, un plug the air intake on top of the air cleaner and remove the air box top and the air filter.

Notice the intake stacks, note their positions for reinstall. Folks have messed with these positions, tall rear, short front, tall and short in front and the same in back, etc. So have I; I have never found any noticeable difference. But, I'm sure somewhere someone has increased HP by 20%, boosted gas mileage and cured the Vtec engagement surge just by moving their intakes. Trust your judgment here on reassembly.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237357077-S.jpg


You probably have more plumbing behind the air box than I have, I removed my PAIR Valve hoses, etc a while ago. Disconnect the hoses (if you still have them) to the PAIR Valve solenoid; unplug the map sensor and the vacuum line below it. These are at the rear of the air box.
Stock photo of plumbing back there
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/238547851-S.jpg

Disconnect the #12 vacuum hose and the grey connector near it. Both are located on the right side of the air box near the front. That is the grey connector and the hose leading away to the lower left from the brown one way valve
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237357489-S.jpg

Lift the air box up and disconnect the IAT sensor under the air box.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237357347-S.jpg


Unhook the idle screw adjuster from its keeper, just below the frame rail on the right side. Note: in a few minutes, when you are ready to lift up the throttle bodies, you need to carefully help guide this fitting through the frame openings in order to allow the throttle bodies to be lifted.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237357870-S.jpg

Remove the two shouldered mounting bolts to the coolant over flow tank and zip tie the tank out of the way.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237358473-S.jpg

Hey! Look what I found behind the coolant tank. I lost that tip to my WD-40 about 10,000 miles ago when cleaning the top of the air box.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237358599-S.jpg


OK, now take a flash light and look around and find the insulators (the rubber tubes that connect the throttle body to the engine) and the hose clamps under each throttle body. I guess you can remove either the insulators with the throttle bodies by loosening the lower hose clamp on each, or have the insulators stay on the engine by loosening each upper hose clamp the way I did. I found it easier to reach the upper hose clamps, thereby leaving the insulators on the engine.

Here is where the loooooong screwdriver fits in. Ya, like the wife said, just two more inches and it would have been even better.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237358963-S.jpg

Remove the throttle linkage bolts and the throttle cables.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237359193-S.jpg

Lift off the throttle bodies. Ok, that is not as easy as it sounds, don't lift by the fuel rails. I actually used my favorite hardwood pry thingy to pop the throttle body out of the rubber tube at the rear, then the fronts came out pretty easy.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237359321-S.jpg

Now you must get the two hose clamps off the wax fast idle unit under the throttle bodies. When you look under the throttle bodies it is easy to see that upon assembly of the throttle bodies to the engine this was all done in a different sequence at the factory, confirmed by the fact that you will find hose clamps facing down into the engine.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237359519-S.jpg


Now, I hung the throttle bodies over the bike, ya, that cargo net again and I covered the intake manifold openings with clean rags.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237360318-S.jpg

Take a look, there is the Cam Chain Tensioner, whoppie!
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237360153-S.jpg

Use the exact same procedure to remove it as you did with the rear one just a bit ago, ya did do the rear one right?

Reassemble in the reverse order. You can use a touch of oil or WD-40 on the insulators lips to help ease the throttle body reassembly. The throttle body intake tubes hose clamps are speced to how tight they should be by noting how close the sides of the clamp are, see pic
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237358795-S.jpg

I removed the top hose clamps, they are speced at 7mm. If you removed the bottom ones they are speced at 10mm.

So how do you ever measure that? I just marked it on my screw driver and moved it into position to measure the gaps.
http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/237358732-S.jpg

Sometimes I had to take another long screwdriver and move things out of the way from above to get a clear view. Remember the suggestion about wearing a camping headlamp. Oooooo, it makes easy work of this process; a screw driver in each hand and a light on forehead. Ok, granted ya look stupid wearing it in the garage, but it works.

Ok, now just resemble the beast.

nice pictorial...man that front tensioner is really accessible...NOT.

WOW!, Awesome write up. Thanks for sharing. I saved it for future use cause I know it's coming. Too bad #2 is buried so deep.

I think I would do a t-state change while I was down there as well.

Pin, pin, pin!

:offtopic:

There's a thread 'round here with questions as to how the L.P. tank bra attaches. Can you help?

http://www.vfrdiscus...amp;hl=tank+bra

Please.

I had the same noise in My 02 VTEC 40k. We chased and chased the noise. Finally I was talking to the really helpful Honda Mechanics in Vic Park Western Australia. The manager supplied me some new Castrol Power1 GPS oil and a new filter. We suspected a sticky oil pressure relief valve.

Removed all the exhaust and the engine sump to check and clean the oil pressure relief valve and Oil pickup screen. Cleaned them all and reassembled the engine and exhaust. Checked the Tensioners were not out too far. Cycled them several times using the special tensioner tool. and reassembled the whole thing with a new oil filter and refilled with the Castrol semisynthetic.

Started the bike and it still made the tapping noise. After a few minutes the noise vanished and is still gone after two weeks. Who knows which bit was magic but at least one part of this worked. The noise is gone!, the noise is gone!

Relieved VFR VTEC owner
Viffer8

Whoa, whoa, whoa!!

You removed the throttle bodies?? Crazy people! You don't need to remove the throttle bodies to replace the front tensioner. It's off to the side and can be reached with everything in place. I've done it myself, and there's a picture here to prove how accessible it is:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1194812713/gallery_380_3458_1362917.jpg
Note the tensioner in this picture, just below and to the left of the fuel pressure regulator. Look how much space there is there for a socket wrench!

I think I'd need an entire sixpack of beer and all weekend if I was gonna do this by removing the throttle bodies. Seriously, it's completely unnecessary!

Very good. You should write manuals instead of that Clymer guy! :beer:

[image: View Post]kaldek, on Jan 2 2008, 11:03 AM, said:

Whoa, whoa, whoa!!

You removed the throttle bodies?? Crazy people! You don't need to remove the throttle bodies to replace the front tensioner. It's off to the side and can be reached with everything in place. I've done it myself, and there's a picture here to prove how accessible it is:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1194812713/gallery_380_3458_1362917.jpg
Note the tensioner in this picture, just below and to the left of the fuel pressure regulator. Look how much space there is there for a socket wrench!

I think I'd need an entire sixpack of beer and all weekend if I was gonna do this by removing the throttle bodies. Seriously, it's completely unnecessary!

+1 thats insane, I did both tensioner on my vtec in about 1hr, sometimes the service manual can be a very bad thing.

Now your also going to have to do starter valve balance as well due to removing throttle bodies omg great write up but most of your work is a total waste of time.

I thought it was a pain just removing the stuff I did to do valve service but you removed even more stuff just to replace tensioner, think you torque wrench might have been the problem being to big to get into space.

You use extenions on your sockets & use 1/4 drive & you can even get the magnetic sockets but I just add some grease to make bolts stick to socket for removal & install, but if you drop just use magnet to pick up. I used a steel 6 inch rule with end cut to fit tensioner so I could unload tensioner very easy due to reach it had.

You don't need to remove the throttle bodies to change the front tensioner. You can do it with a 1/4" ratchet, a couple extensions, a wobble, and a lot of cursing. :beer:

excellent info!
im afraid ill be doing my CCT before spring and i dreaded even thinking of digging into it.
im no expert machanic,but i now feel i could do this myself with no issues of fear im destroying my bike by guessing.

[image: View Post]kaldek, on Jan 2 2008, 06:03 AM, said:

Whoa, whoa, whoa!!

You removed the throttle bodies?? Crazy people! You don't need to remove the throttle bodies to replace the front tensioner. It's off to the side and can be reached with everything in place. I've done it myself, and there's a picture here to prove how accessible it is:

That looks like it would work great! Tiz a shame the Honda folks don't know that :lol:

Great write up! :thumbsup:

So, maybe you can have it pinned after it's fine tuned with the other members' input......
The collaboration on this site is what's really great..... we find problems and 'better way' solutions to them sometimes even before Honda knows/admits/figures out a fix/etc./etc./etc. Maybe that's why they changed their slogan from a long time ago...
"The Better Way". <_<

Now it should be: "HONDA... GO FIGURE".... :goofy:

If you're not, you should be a tech writer, 'cause nothing was lost in the translation from Japanese, like "ignite fuse and retire quickly for a safer destination" :squid: :squid: :o

Whats a CCT? I don't have one, should i get one? My bike has this whirring sound all the time. I hope it is ok.


Very informative writeup. I enjoy reading technical write ups even if they don't pertain to me, and yours was fun to read.

[image: View Post]khyron, on Jan 2 2008, 12:33 PM, said:

Whats a CCT? I don't have one, should i get one? My bike has this whirring sound all the time. I hope it is ok.

Check you blinker fluid! :o

Very informative writeup. I enjoy reading technical write ups even if they don't pertain to me, and yours was fun to read.

I didn't remove the T.B., either, But I still say it gets pinned, as the pics help, and it is what the manual says. As long as it is known that that step can be blown past.

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Jan 2 2008, 01:01 PM, said:

[image: View Post]khyron, on Jan 2 2008, 12:33 PM, said:

Whats a CCT? I don't have one, should i get one? My bike has this whirring sound all the time. I hope it is ok.

Check you blinker fluid! :o

Very informative writeup. I enjoy reading technical write ups even if they don't pertain to me, and yours was fun to read.

I didn't remove the T.B., either, But I still say it gets pinned, as the pics help, and it is what the manual says. As long as it is known that that step can be blown past.

I will edit the opening so folks know

What an excellent write-up that was! :thumbsup:

Having replaced the CCTs on the VTR1000 I had before my current bike (which was a piece of cake, compared to this), I'm really glad I didn't listen to the wife and buy a VTec.

Excellent write up. It looks fairly accesible with the throttle bodies on. It doesnt look to bad at all. I have 34k so I will probably do mine soon.

Trust me the manual is messed up. I am a honda auto tech and the manual always says to remove more parts than is really neccesary. If I were a tech at a mc dealer there is no way I would pull the throttle bodies. Of course I havent done it yet.

This should be pinned. It makes the job seem easy, :beer: :beer:

So you just turned the tank 180degrees, leaving the fuel lines on and spilling no fuel?

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on Jan 2 2008, 03:04 PM, said:

Great write up! :thumbsup:

So, maybe you can have it pinned after it's fine tuned with the other members' input......
The collaboration on this site is what's really great..... we find problems and 'better way' solutions to them sometimes even before Honda knows/admits/figures out a fix/etc./etc./etc. Maybe that's why they changed their slogan from a long time ago...
"The Better Way". <_<

Now it should be: "HONDA... GO FIGURE".... :goofy:

If you're not, you should be a tech writer, 'cause nothing was lost in the translation from Japanese, like "ignite fuse and retire quickly for a safer destination" :squid: :squid: :o
It should get pinned just for it's novel hardwood board levering approach to getting those throttle bodies off the engine. I suspect it will also work on my "Flintstone era" 4th gen with primitive carb banks too, if I ever have to get them off myself one day. :P

Beck
95 VFR

Very nice write-up Rad!!!!!!! :beer:

I too did not remove anything but the air box for the front CCT, it's a pain but doable! ;)

that airbox looks different internally than on my 06 model, the Tubes were taller and only the rear had a step down in the base of the airbox.


I dont think I'm dreaming

[image: View Post]spud786, on Jan 2 2008, 06:07 PM, said:

that airbox looks different internally than on my 06 model, the Tubes were taller and only the rear had a step down in the base of the airbox.


I dont think I'm dreaming

Yea 06 was the year they refined some things, taller stacks help smooth out turbulence in the airbox

[image: View Post]kaldek, on Jan 2 2008, 04:03 AM, said:

Whoa, whoa, whoa!!

You removed the throttle bodies??
Seriously, it's completely unnecessary!

[image: View Post]zRoYz, on Jan 2 2008, 05:16 AM, said:

+1 thats insane,
Now your also going to have to do starter valve balance as well due to removing throttle bodies omg

[image: View Post]jeremy556, on Jan 2 2008, 05:16 AM, said:

You don't need to remove the throttle bodies to change the front tensioner.

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Jan 2 2008, 11:01 AM, said:

I didn't remove the T.B., either, .


wonderful writeup, thats why I featured it. However just in case you did not get the message the first 4 times - YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE THE THROTTLE BODIES TO REPLACE THE TENSIONER :P Just in case your wondering they bust my balls all the time too!

:P :huh: LOL. Bastage. :D

Thanks for pinning. :beer:

[image: View Post]HispanicSlammer, on Jan 3 2008, 06:14 AM, said:

wonderful writeup, thats why I featured it. However just in case you did not get the message the first 4 times - YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE THE THROTTLE BODIES TO REPLACE THE TENSIONER :P Just in case your wondering they bust my balls all the time too!

Thanks HS, I searched and did not find a CCT write up, daymn, could have saved me some work. But, I had a good time and a great dry, no pun intended, run for when that thermostat goes out.

It would be kinda cool if some one wanted to add the text, and or photos, of the leave the TB's in place procedure. Or, it may be nothing more than inserting at the correct spot; "IDIOT, STOP TAKING THINGS OFF NOW AND REMOVE THE FRONT CCT" :lol:

Just remember...do it some where the cussing can't be heard. Getting that front CCT off with the throttle bodies on is a great way to practice your sailor vocabulary. :rolleyes:

And make sure you have a bolt grabber available. <_<

Great job rad. :beer:

[image: View Post]soichiro, on Jan 3 2008, 10:57 AM, said:

So you just turned the tank 180degrees, leaving the fuel lines on and spilling no fuel?
You can even leave the tank on, just propped up using the bits from the toolkit (swingarm adjuster and extension bar).

[image: View Post]kaldek, on Jan 4 2008, 06:31 AM, said:

[image: View Post]soichiro, on Jan 3 2008, 10:57 AM, said:

So you just turned the tank 180degrees, leaving the fuel lines on and spilling no fuel?
You can even leave the tank on, just propped up using the bits from the toolkit (swingarm adjuster and extension bar).


http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1142296515/gallery_2922_262_117393.jpg
100_2669.JPG

Just be sure to put a nice wide, thick towel, on your seat rail before hand.

This has been an excellent write-up. I changed out the hydraulic CCT on my GSXR to a manual piece, and wished I had a appropriate guide like this to reference on the GSXR boards.

And yes, I am glad I have a 5th Gen. :)

Great write up and pictures. I've saved it to file.

How did you know you needed to change them. I have 35 thousand miles on my 2004 and it's running fine, sounds like new. Had the valves done once at about 18 thous.

Where do you all buy your CCT's?

Ron Ayers wants just a hair over $70 ea. <_<

Anywhere to get them cheaper?

[image: View Post]Teague, on Jan 13 2008, 11:42 AM, said:

Where do you all buy your CCT's?

Ron Ayers wants just a hair over $70 ea.  <_<

Anywhere to get them cheaper?
What is a cam chain tensioner?  Hee, hee.

[image: View Post]Teague, on Jan 13 2008, 11:42 AM, said:

Where do you all buy your CCT's?

Ron Ayers wants just a hair over $70 ea.  <_<

Anywhere to get them cheaper?
Honda service. Shipping takes a while, but if you don't need it yesterday,.........

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Jan 16 2008, 09:34 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Teague, on Jan 13 2008, 11:42 AM, said:

Where do you all buy your CCT's?

Ron Ayers wants just a hair over $70 ea.  <_<

Anywhere to get them cheaper?
Honda service. Shipping takes a while, but if you don't need it yesterday,.........


tech says CCT has been updated, new part# and differ pad??????

[image: View Post]choco, on Jan 13 2008, 02:23 AM, said:

How did you know you needed to change them. I have 35 thousand miles on my 2004 and it's running fine, sounds like new. Had the valves done once at about 18 thous.
I did not have to guess; mine (the front one) was making a huge racket once the bike was warmed up.

As another poster asked; price and where I got mine.  I paid more than ya need to because I had my local dealer order them.  I do that sometimes, gotta throw them a bone every so often :goofy:

[image: View Post]04asphalt, on Jan 24 2008, 10:32 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Jan 16 2008, 09:34 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Teague, on Jan 13 2008, 11:42 AM, said:

Where do you all buy your CCT's?

Ron Ayers wants just a hair over $70 ea.  <_<

Anywhere to get them cheaper?
Honda service. Shipping takes a while, but if you don't need it yesterday,.........


tech says CCT has been updated, new part# and differ pad??????

Not sure. But I can tell you, the pads don't come with them. Could be any number of things. But I doubt it's a better tensioner.

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[b]

I might have to replace my tensioners soon, but even without pulling the throttle bodies, I'm wondering why the front is all that hard to access.  I can't say for sure looking at this picture, but isn't that the tensioner just to the left of the fuel regulator?  If so, then if you remove the fuel regulator, then it looks like there is plenty of access and replacing it should be a breeze.  Yes/No?  I've had the fuel regulator off and aside from losing a little fuel due to pressure in the line/rails, it really easy to remove/install it.

Also, if I order the tensioner, gasket, and sealing washer, so I also replace the pads too?

Yes.
See the angle it's at? NO NEED to remove the regulator.
I just ordered the tensioner. Gasket is metal. Used all my old stuff. Knock on wood, been fine.

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Jan 29 2008, 07:09 PM, said:

Yes.
See the angle it's at? NO NEED to remove the regulator.
I just ordered the tensioner. Gasket is metal. Used all my old stuff. Knock on wood, been fine.
rivcyko, did ya get the new cam tensioner yet?  any difference seen

I just ordered another set of tensioners for my '02.  She's at 110,000km (over 60,000 miles) now and rattling again.  In placing the order I noticed that the part code for the CCT has changed since the original version listed in the online parts fiche.  The original code lists them as 14520-MCW-000 and the current code is 14520-MCW-003.

Having said that my dealer reckons the part code never changed, so maybe us folks in Europe and Australia never received that original part code?  Ah well, they reckon that if I change the tensioners over then there shouldn't be any damage to the chain.

FYI, this will be the 3rd set of CCTs fitted to this bike.

[image: View Post]Teague, on Jan 13 2008, 11:42 AM, said:

Where do you all buy your CCT's?

Ron Ayers wants just a hair over $70 ea.  <_<

Anywhere to get them cheaper?
$70 is a good price, thats where I got mine

Interesting. I replaced my front one 5,000 mile ago everything was premo, Then I notice a week or so ago, the new tensioner is starting to make some noise.

I used my trick of loosening the tensioner bolts about 2mm to let the tenioner seperate from the block and take up the slack, about a 1/4turn move on the spin. then tighten back down.  Seem to work , but usually takes 2 attempts, 1 is enough for now.

The one thing I did notice, with that front chain snugg it really has a big effect on vibration quieting at the bars , my failed tensioner had 2 attempts at my trick , but the tensioner still had a slight knock(rattle) till the bike warmed up , but that tensioner had the vibration down to nothing.
'
I noticed a regain of high rpm vibration after the new tensioner was installed, but the noise was gone.

[image: View Post]kaldek, on Jun 23 2008, 07:37 PM, said:

I just ordered another set of tensioners for my '02.  She's at 110,000km (over 60,000 miles) now and rattling again.  In placing the order I noticed that the part code for the CCT has changed since the original version listed in the online parts fiche.  The original code lists them as 14520-MCW-000 and the current code is 14520-MCW-003.

Having said that my dealer reckons the part code never changed, so maybe us folks in Europe and Australia never received that original part code?  Ah well, they reckon that if I change the tensioners over then there shouldn't be any damage to the chain.

FYI, this will be the 3rd set of CCTs fitted to this bike.

I think the rear holds up better , has more oil flow , its the front one that seem to have the issue

Kaldek,

Look-up Red Dog's CCT mod. I'm try'n to get as many folks to do this mod, so we can get come controls.

[image: View Post]NVR2L8, on Jan 29 2008, 03:21 PM, said:

[image: Posted Image]
[b]

I might have to replace my tensioners soon, but even without pulling the throttle bodies, I'm wondering why the front is all that hard to access.  I can't say for sure looking at this picture, but isn't that the tensioner just to the left of the fuel regulator?  If so, then if you remove the fuel regulator, then it looks like there is plenty of access and replacing it should be a breeze.  Yes/No?  I've had the fuel regulator off and aside from losing a little fuel due to pressure in the line/rails, it really easy to remove/install it.

Also, if I order the tensioner, gasket, and sealing washer, so I also replace the pads too?
That is exactly the level of disassembly I did to remove mine(remove air box) it takes a little time and patience, but doable with a nice little 1/4" ratchet and long extension. Biggest problem is that hose over the rear bolt, but you can work around it!   :biggrin:

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Jun 24 2008, 11:02 AM, said:

Look-up Red Dog's CCT mod. I'm try'n to get as many folks to do this mod, so we can get come controls. Say what?  I think I need to go and hit the Search button!

great pics!  It looks like I will tackle this job myself.
2 questions:
1) the front CCT and the rear CCT are the same? same part #?
2) I want the BEST CCT (updated version) but am confused about part #s, my VFR800 is an 03, should I use a 14520-MCW-000 or a 14520-MCW-003 on it?  Service Honda stocks BOTH Units, I want the better/new and improved CCT but want it to work with my 03.
Thanks Doug
Plus-  Anyone got an extra CCT tool I can buy off you?

[image: View Post]DougFromIndy, on Aug 14 2008, 02:13 AM, said:

great pics!  It looks like I will tackle this job myself.
2 questions:
1) the front CCT and the rear CCT are the same? same part #?
2) I want the BEST CCT (updated version) but am confused about part #s, my VFR800 is an 03, should I use a 14520-MCW-000 or a 14520-MCW-003 on it?  Service Honda stocks BOTH Units, I want the better/new and improved CCT but want it to work with my 03.
Thanks Doug
Plus-  Anyone got an extra CCT tool I can buy off you? Otto, I mean Doug, when I replace a set on a memeber bike, the tool came with the CCT.  I have two in my tool box if yours don't come with it.

On the way to work today I started hearing a clicking/tapping sound.  I wasn't able to hear where it was coming from, but it was definantly RPM dependant.  I assume the CCT is going...just my luck.

I like the looks of doing it without removing the TB, I guess I need to hit the search screen for the Red Dog mod, never heard of it.

On a side note....why do they start making noise?  What is failing in there?

I just spotted this.  Thanks Rad.

With 50K, it's something I should be thinking of , though I don't seem to notice my engine being especially noisy.
Maybe I should skip the MP3 player for a change though.

Are there any aftermarket suppliers for this part?

10/14/08  I ordered a CCT from TN 1-800-785-6361
It HAS an updated part# 14520-MCW-013  was $65 which I think is low cost
I wonder if anyone can verify/doublecheck this CCT part # and also wonder if it is a better part?
the misc parts were only $10
14523-MCW-003 gasket
90004_GHB-600 qty X 2 mounting bolts
14524-MBB-000 cup

I am really curious about the new CCT part # and if its correct for an 03 VFR800 and if its a BETTER PART?
thanks, Doug
My recent printout from corner Honda dealer gives a part #6 on diagram as 14520-MCW-003 , I guess I will wait and see what red sticky I get on my Honda bag.
Running the THREE CCT part #s thru SERVICE HONDA OEM parts website I now get:
14520-MCW-000  (original? dunno) is $68.22
14520-MCW-003  (2nd gen? dunno) is $64.57
14520-MCW-013  (3rd gen? dunno) is $64.57

So, I am getting a -013 part, maybe its better, I hope.  WTF?

[image: View Post]DougFromIndy, on Oct 14 2008, 02:22 PM, said:

see what red sticky I get on my Honda bag.
Running the THREE CCT part #s thru SERVICE HONDA OEM parts website I now get:
14520-MCW-000  (original? dunno) is $68.22
14520-MCW-003  (2nd gen? dunno) is $64.57
14520-MCW-013  (3rd gen? dunno) is $64.57

So, I am getting a -013 part, maybe its better, I hope.  WTF?
Doug,
I doubt it's any better, Honda CTT's have always sucked! :fing02:

Please let us know if you find different.
btw my replacements have gone longer then the original. :biggrin:

I just got'em done.
I ordered part # 14520-MCW-003  - two of them.  They are the same.
Paid $55 for each through Dave Lusk (1-866-283-1147)  A very nice fella who gave me the lowest prices (after I mentioned VFRD).  I originally got his coordinates from BR's postfrom many moons ago.
:fing02:
Beware of one major gotcha when replacing the front CCT.  If you don't wedge all the fuel lines out of the way, you will have to tilt the CCT when lifting it out of the hole.  This will cause the metal end cap to get snagged on the motor wall and fall off into the engine.
I was lucky and fished mine out.  HEREis the linky to my thread to give you a perspective.  
Heed the warning if you don't want new or additional gray hairs http://www.vfrdiscus...tyle_emoticons/default/wink.gif

Good luck.

Order my parts from Dave Lusk as well:

Tensioner - 14520-MCW-013 - 54.28 x 2 = $108.56
Gasket - 14523-MCW-003 - 2.25 x 2 = $4.5
Cups - 14524-MBB-000 - 4.00 x 2 = $8
Bolts - 90004_GHB-600 - 1.75 x 4 = $7
Shipping = $6.50
Grand Total = $133.56 (no the math doesn't work, he cut $1 out somewhere....)

Said it would be 7-8 business days to ship, which isn't any worse than anywhere else.  Very nice guy, and the tensioner savings was tremendous.  The other parts weren't that discounted, but no complaints from me.  Now I will try the "no TB removal" installation technique, during which I will most likely employ the essentials from the "Sailor Vocabulary and You" course I have been auditing.

[quote name='Tightwad' date='Dec 15 2008, 01:46 PM' post='574567']
Order my parts from Dave Lusk as well:

I got my tensioner for $70 from ron ayers, and a gasket, bolts are all reusable

I replaced mine without removing the airbox or the Thottle assembly, tricky, but yeh the THottles bodies theres no need.

After doing all that work the new tentioner was rattling again within 10 k later, when that happens, just try some 10w40 alternatives.  I'm running Exxon 10w40 right now, Tentioners are super quiet.

just curious as to what you are running presently?

[image: View Post]spud786, on Dec 15 2008, 04:21 PM, said:

I got my tensioner for $70 from ron ayers, and a gasket, bolts are all reusable

I replaced mine without removing the airbox or the Thottle assembly, tricky, but yeh the THottles bodies theres no need.

After doing all that work the new tentioner was rattling again within 10 k later, when that happens, just try some 10w40 alternatives.  I'm running Exxon 10w40 right now, Tentioners are super quiet.

just curious as to what you are running presently?

Mobil 1 10/30, or whatever was recommended.  This is the first they have made noise, started at the 25K mark or so, just got a BUNCH noisier (to the point of concerning me) on Friday.  I figured the gasket was reusable, but for $2.25 I wasn't doing it again.  Same with the bolts....I can always use more bolts, so the $3.25 spent there is an investment.  I figure i will look at my old ones and see what I can learn....must be something.

One of the biggest mods for some DRZ's is to install a manual tensioning CCT. I wonder if that would be any good for us...

Yeh the washers , they are easy to drop, dont ask>G<

10w30 and klacking I'm surprised

Hopefully Your $100 is better spent than mine was

I just noticed you got 2 tentioners, that is a super price.

I've only replaced the front, the rear I've never had any issue with. 51,000 + mile

Nice write up and pictorial.  By the way, thats the best color VFR ive ever seen.   :fing02:

Hello guys, I am more than likely aquiring a 2000 Firestorm 1000, with 30,000 km's in the next few weeks, this would be the relevant replacement article for this bike, right? How do you know if its time for the CCT swap out, is the noise distinct enough, that if they're going out, you'll definatley know it? Also, I've read on a few other forums that you need to get the front cylinder to TDC on.. the compression stroke i believe, before you start this, or the chain will slip on the sprocket, and the cam timing will be out. Is this true, or a non- issue?

If you hear something that sounds like chain clacking from your engine it's probably the CCT's.  As for it this is relevant for your bike?  I don't know but it helped me when I replaced the CCT on my VFR and my R6.

I never hear of setting your front cylinder before but I had no problems swapping the CCT's on both my bikes by just doing it.  I guess you could check the Honda manual to make sure but I don't recall seeing anything there either.  You just need to make sure you get the CCT completely retracted before removing it (getting that tool in is a PIA).  Carefully pull the CCT out and then insert the new one (also completely retracted).  

I have used this DIY guide in conjunction with the manual and my machine is still running strong with just under 42k miles.  http://www.vfrdiscus...tyle_emoticons/default/smile.gif

just read about the cct fault grate tut by the way my vfr (02) has done 30kmiles and has started to make a noise from the right hand side of the rear head its only very slight and does not do it all the time but ive had the bike nearly three years and its never missed a beat or made any strange noises ive had bikes for years and so sort of guessed at either cct or tappets does this sound like the noise that you who have done this work have experienced dont really want to start pulling my pride and joy to bits without having some idea of what problem may be cheers in advance phil