Custom Brake Line

With the mods I've made to the handlebars, I'm in the need for a longer brake line. Anyone have a recommendation for custom made brake lines?

I believe that Galfer, Speigler and HEL all make custom lines. Galfer I heard from one rider personally took real good care of him.

FWIW, Chris at HEL Canada has always given me excellent customer service. I have put HEL lines on a few bikes now and he came through with making up lines for a 1986 FZ600 I had.

I'm not sure if HEL USA is as good to deal with but I can vouch for their quality

Coremoto.com

Awesome company, I have a number of sets of their lines now, they're great!
Just give them a call they will set you right up!

Thanks for the leads. 

$148 3 line combo... includes crush washers... and nice new stainless banjo bolts... and the color choices are the best in the industry... I don't work for them or get any kickbacks, just love the product!

http://www.coremoto....Lines_s/306.htm

You'll have to do the custom lines. They dont offer anything for the VFR1200....unless im dumb and missed it?

You'll have to do the custom lines. They dont offer anything for the VFR1200....unless im dumb and missed it?

Yes... the OP was looking for a custom length line. 2 phone calls max to CoreMoto will get you what you need.

I forgot to mention, they have AWESOME turn around time on custom lines! Two of my custom orders were placed and turned to parts in hand within a week! (They are in FL, I am in NY)

yep....im dumb.

Hey,

Let us know how you get on with this.

The lines on these bikes are quite complex (http://cdn.partzilla...MGE4F/0540A.png), take a look down your front brake line from the lever (part F-17-1 in the link above). It goes into a connector that takes it into a bike mounted block which then runs to steel pipes. When I was thinking of doing this - I don't think i need to with my bar set-up now. I was thinking about extending the connection between the master cylinder and the current connection using a short bit of pipe and some standard connectors.

Something like using a blocked off double banjo bolt connector with the end capped off to coupled two banjo bolts togethter - one going to the master cylinder, one to the exisitng brake line.

Some may say this not so good because it adds an extra connection to the brake system but honda didnt seem to mind having many connections and you'd at least be able to keep an eye on it there. A 2" line would probably be more than enough. Making brake lines is not hard and you'll have plenty of room for attempts if you buy a meter of stainless line.

Good luck.

Ant.

That box is the ABS. If you need new lines, you should replace all lines between the bars and the box.

 -Dan

That box is the ABS. If you need new lines, you should replace all lines between the bars and the box.

 -Dan

Hmm, and why is that? 

Looks like the lines from the Box to the calipers are solid, meaning they don't need to be replaced. I guess you could add an extension to the stock lines, I've just never seen it done. Cost of full lines as opposed to an extension not likely to be that different, but I guess you can do it. I'm not enough of an expert to say why that would be bad for the brakes, but I'd like to minimize the number of places air could get into the the lines, meaning I'd like a direct connect all the way to the box.

-Dan

i think that having a small block machined to accept the two banjo fittings would be much safer than just marrying two banjo fittings together....prob not too much $$

Goodridge catalog has already everything you need. 

And no, you cant replace every piece of line between abs modulator and calipers in this bike. You would not be able to route the braided line the same way as the pipes are. Just leave them in place but if you really want to get rid of them buy some copper tubing and bend to match oem lines. As noted, you can just end you braided line with M10 thread just under the neck. You still need a good quality clamps like this:

https://holley.com/p...parts/170207ERL

First off, thanks for the info, much appreciated.  I tried to flip the line and re-route, but this actually made it shorter.  I bit the bullet and called Core Moto, Ryan was a great help.  $69 plus shipping. Hopefully they have the connector available, he's going to check.  Need to take a few more pictures and hopefully we can get this done. 

Attached Images

• [image: Stock.jpg]
• [image: Flipped.jpg]
• [image: Line.jpg]

I'm happy to report this project is in the bag. The replacement line from Core leaked at the hard line connection. Discussing the options with their tech, we decided to can the stock line all together and have one line from the ABS pump to the reservoir.

The only complaint is this second line took a week longer than I was told. In the end, removing the panels to expose the pump was a pain but was the best solution.

core is a good place to work with. Since the original line leaked, the replacement line was on them, I paid for shipping. The line ended up costing $70 with all the shipping.

Bleeding was a pain, an entire bottle of brake fluid flushed and it was still soft. I clamped off the lever and let it sit for several hours. After that it was stiffer than, well I now have a solid front brake lever.

Love the end result.

.[image: image.jpg]

More pics pls!

Core suggested using coax cable to determine the path and length of the brake line. 

Here is a pic of the coax mimicking the stock hard line patch. 

[image: Sample Path.jpg]

I went with a black brake like to match all the other cables, however it is difficult to see.  This pic is part of the lower run

[image: Actual path.jpg]

This pick is at the upper resevior.

[image: Top actual.jpg]

Thx. Looks neat.

It seems you need some good quality brake ilne clamp. The pic, one before last shows some inclination in the stock bracket. I would strongly suggest you fix that.

Bleeding was a pain, an entire bottle of brake fluid flushed and it was still soft. I clamped off the lever and let it sit for several hours. After that it was stiffer than, well I now have a solid front brake lever.
 

Yeah, imagine that I replaced every bake line and what I'm going through right now - HONDA, thank you for not placing the bleeder in the ABS pump. What a splendid idea!  :laughing6-hehe:

The first day: managed to bleed the clutch in 2 minutes, managed to bleed the rear in 10 minutes. The day was over - front brake lever soft like a sponge. Absolutely no pressure. 

The second day: managed to make a lever solid a bit, still spongy but a progress has been made. Zip tied the lever and I have enough for today. Need to buy one more bottle of DOT4.

i'm going through the same thing...i have tried everything ...i think there is air in the abs modulator ...i followed factory service manual to a tee...have been working on non abs hydraulic brakes for a long time...have tried vacuum bleeding, manual lever pump....replaced all seals.....i'm stumped....going to take it to dealer soon...still have ext warranty

Just got me thinking this might not be an air issue but an empty space inside the modulator - something which is blocked by modulator internals like valve or so.

Yeah, I know that empty space virtually means air but this is something different.

Told myself I gotta sort it out today and after zip tie-ing the lever and leaving it for 2-3 hours I have some progress! Denny12's hint got me thinking anyways.

However there was no air coming out the hose anymore and the brake has around 70% of the stock stiffness again.

Try that one!

I'm curious how dealer is doing it. What do you mean by "zip tie-ing the lever" Take it to the handle bar an block there?

There is no special procedure in the manual to bleed the modulator?

They have some advanced automated machines for couple grands. You can buy a vacuum bleeder either with a integrated pump or with an air compressor connection but, it will not help a lot.

I mean compressing the lever and tie it to the handlebar.

Manual says "connect the commercially available bleeder to the system"...

i've pumped the lever up and tied it tight and left it...it does keep some pressure....if it just sits it loses any pressure at the lever but will pump back up...there are no leaks anywhere....i have the exact same symptoms that you have ....started after changing brake fluid....no problem with the rear/link system or clutch

How to bleed the modulator?? Can't find anything about it. You have to activate the modulator? contact on? find this on Triumph forum because they use the nissin system to.

http://www.triumphra...-procedure.html

I've red that too..same thing with Honda CBR ABS system. VFR 1200 does not have an OBD connector - at least not a standard one. There are some scanners that might work tho:

http://shop.pvmmotos...-kit-honda.html

The only thins you can try is to jump the diagnostic 4 pin connector and read the fault codes.

VFR 1200 service manual states that you just need to bleed the system using the bleeder screws - that's all.

http://vfrworld.com/...ke-bleeding-tip

if anyone is interested you can buy the bits and make these lines your selves, i do it on cars and bikes so if your interested i can give you a talk through on how its done.

What lines? HEL has already everything You need and I already have the complete braided set installed. I've done like 20 cars and 5 motorcycles with ABS always with NP.

However they tend to have a bleeders in the ABS modulator. This one doesn't...

If you have any specific hints which might help us mere mortals, pls be so kind and post it here so everyone can use this information.

One trick I have learned over the years is to actually pull the master cylinder off the handlebar. Only fill it 1/4 or 1/2 and be careful not to spill any, but keep lightly squeezing and releasing the lever while you tilt the M/C in different directions. With the lever end tilted slightly up and the M/C tilted slightly down, just barely squeezing the lever 10 or 15 times, I always see air bubbles come out of the M/C. I keep doing that until I don't see air anymore. Then bleed the calipers as normal.

im all for the cable tie method, get out all the air you can, pump up the lever then cable tie to the bar, leave over night come back in the morning, cut the cable tie and watch the bubbles appear in the reservoir.

Yep, worked for me. Compress, tie and leave it for 24h.

However I saw no more bubbles coming out neither reservoir nor bleeder. I believe some solenoids just has to be pressurized to let the fluid in.

tell me what could a compressed lever help bleeding the line

tell me what could a compressed lever help bleeding the line

Maybe its beyond your comprehension, but as wrote before, the pressure will slowly open the solenoids which are normally closed and full of air(after draining the system).

Normal procedure with car ABS would be to use the modulator bleeders but Honda decided to not put them here...

In a case of Triumph motorcycles where Bosch/Nissin modulator is also used, smart Brits invented a special diagnostic function to save some time and pain.

This function allows you to open all solenoids manually and therefore bleed the modulator properly.

I can understand that you must open the solenoids but do you need any electricity to do that I mean contact on. Are those solenoid only hydraulic activated?

VFR 1200 has an electric abs modulator therefore everything is controlled with solenoids. Honda decided to not use any automated bleeding procedure here,

and as they think it should be just fine with conventional bleeding - they were wrong. Its a one big PITA.

What I did was a constant build up pressure which eventually pushed the valves, springs, one way ball release thingy and whatever else is there, 

and opened a passage and let me bleed to modulator entirely...this is how I comprehend this. Worked for me.

Ok understand. Only one question i have. What about reverse bleeding did someone tried that. Maybe that way you open the solenoids and puch the air up.


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i tried everything

i've tried it with it running and after riding so that the abs light was off....i've done everything but bleed it while moving

There must be something wrong. If its so bad then no dealer and magic bleed machine will help you. Either is something not sealed properly or you have a clog somewhere.

i've done everything i can, it's the dealer's turn

Did you pull the master cylinder off and tilt it like I suggested? Any bubbles come out?

i've done everything i can, it's the dealer's turn

Hey, your money your time. I would still recommend trying to flush it once more.

Ok understand. Only one question i have. What about reverse bleeding did someone tried that. Maybe that way you open the solenoids and puch the air up.
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I normally don't bother with this method for regular brake bleed. But if I were to replace lines upstream of the Abs modulator, I would definitely do this.

Ok understand. Only one question i have. What about reverse bleeding did someone tried that. Maybe that way you open the solenoids and puch the air up.
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I normally don't bother with this method for regular brake bleed. But if I were to replace lines upstream of the Abs modulator, I would definitely do this.

Will not work, tried that too. ABS will not likely go reverse.

no, it didn't work either

You have air trapped somewhere.

You've either missed a bleed point, or have not worked the air out well enough. Air will always go to the highest point. Starting at your calipers, use the plastic handle of a large screwdriver to tap all the way up to your bleed point. Use a small frequent tapping motion.

Once you've woodpecker'd your way up, crack the bleeder. **In the case of the master cylinder**, you MUST ensure that the bottom of the reservoir is higher than the banjo bolt/line connection! **Additionally** Do not fully squeeze the lever! You need to move the lever just a small amount, usually just enough to hear the brake light switch click on. Squeezing the lever more than that will just push the air back down the line.

You will likely need to remove the m/c from the handlebar to accomplish this. Use masking tape, string, etc to hold it in its temp position while you work.

A lot of the time, especially in factory systems, air will become trapped in one or more of the numerous junctions. The tapping method has helped me achieve rock solid brakes on numerous occasions similar to what you have described.

Ok, after the short ride I decided to give a rear brake a try - I normally don't use it but what da heck...

Mmmmm spongy! I decided to bleed the rear once more - few bubbles came out from the rear bleeder.

Front is good.

Hint: bleed, ride it a bit and bleed it again.

Riding = vibration... hence the tapping on the lines to get the air out, before you head out on the road...

Riding = vibration... hence the tapping on the lines to get the air out, before you head out on the road...

Yeah, exactly.

But, tapping the 2 meter rear line from the modulator to the caliper, where the half is steel may be difficult to achieve.

well, my front brake problem suddenly went away.....went out to the garage a couple of days ago, and the front was still soft, almost back to the bar.  so i pumped it up, as usual and it was back to it's normal ok feel....topped off the master cylinder...it was at the lower end of the sight glass from a quick bleed that i did the day before....and boom...it pumped up really solid and has held since...got about 50 miles in that day and it felt great....still solid this morning

Told ya...

^^^^^^ Great news!

what a relief....i was away all weekend and it's still firm now.

Normal procedure with car ABS would be to use the modulator bleeders but Honda decided to not put them here...

In a case of Triumph motorcycles where Bosch/Nissin modulator is also used, smart Brits invented a special diagnostic function to save some time and pain.

This function allows you to open all solenoids manually and therefore bleed the modulator properly.

Just to make sure you have the full story here and are not unfairly blaming Honda, the VFR1200 uses a Bosch modulator.