Engine Mounts And Vibration

recently I got a vibration I can't track down. 25k on her and in checking for the vibration, which isn't wheels/tires or suspension related; I replaced the chain and my worn out Vortex aluminum sprocket, tried going back stock power wise, as stock as possible; by removing my Power Commander. That didn't fix it. It's just a general rough grindy feel. While cruising and I hold the clutch in it goes away. I'm thinking engine related bit it's running strong as ever.

I wanna check the engine mounts next. I see there are 5 bolts but is there any rubber that could have cracked or dry rotted or is it just mounted without rubber?

The engine is bolted solid to the frame as its a stressed member holding the rear swingarm pivot on the back of the cases.

If the vibration disappears when in gear at speed with the clutch pulled, then its likely to be something to do with the engine drive gears/clutch/gearbox. Trying doing the same test then rev the regine to the same revs with the clutch in, does it comeback ? This will isolate it to the main engine components, crank/rods/piston/cam drive or cams. If it does not come back then its more likely to be from the gearbox side of the engine.

Interesting this season I picked up a similar vibration, get it when riding above 75-80 mph and when engine revs are high. Though it was wheel balancing but when I pull the clutch in and revs drop it goes away. Mine is an 09 with 22k miles. Also have a new chain and sprocket, and tightened the chain last week to see if that would help.

I'm starting to doubt myself... has this vibration always been there, is it just the V4 at higher revs...

Mohawk

The engine is bolted solid to the frame as its a stressed member holding the rear swingarm pivot on the back of the cases.

If the vibration disappears when in gear at speed with the clutch pulled, then its likely to be something to do with the engine drive gears/clutch/gearbox. Trying doing the same test then rev the regine to the same revs with the clutch in, does it comeback ? This will isolate it to the main engine components, crank/rods/piston/cam drive or cams. If it does not come back then its more likely to be from the gearbox side of the engine.

Even though an 90º V4 sports perfect primary and second balances they
still vibrate to some degree and the one thing to eliminate if you
feel more vibrations or hear an odd rattle is a loose exhaust system
because it will amplify any of those vibrations to an annoying
level... tap the pipes with the palm of your hand to test if any bolts
points or connections are loose... also check the foot pegs bolts and
anything bolted to the foot pegs...

Could a worn out clutch cause vibrations? I don't have any slipping issues but my release/engagement point is lever all the way out or first pull of the lever. I cleaned out the reservoir, cleaned the little orfice hole and changed the fluid recently but that didn't change the engagement point. If a wor worn out clutch could be the issue that would be great as its an inexpensive and easy repair.

I wonder if your clutch basket is cracked or heavy grooved .

Roll On ..

I have all the parts lined up on eBay, even a new clutch cover as mine is scratched up, and I'm ready to jump into this but I'd hate to order parts and open it up to find its all ok. Dunno if the vibration would be caused by the clutch but the engagement point should be.

BusyLittleShop

Even though an 90º V4 sports perfect primary and second balances they

still vibrate to some degree and the one thing to eliminate if you

feel more vibrations or hear an odd rattle is a loose exhaust system

because it will amplify any of those vibrations to an annoying

level... tap the pipes with the palm of your hand to test if any bolts

points or connections are loose... also check the foot pegs bolts and

anything bolted to the foot pegs...

Possibly a dirty injector? Do the vibes match engine revs?

gswanson

Possibly a dirty injector? Do the vibes match engine revs?

The map I downloaded from here is pretty aggressive, really rich I think.

As far as the clutch engagement/release I'm gonna bleed it some more to completely rule out air in the system.

vlj1216

I have all the parts lined up on eBay, even a new clutch cover as mine is scratched up, and I'm ready to jump into this but I'd hate to order parts and open it up to find its all ok. Dunno if the vibration would be caused by the clutch but the engagement point should be.

When I installed Seb's clutch cover I noticed mine was heavy grooved. I did have a little vibration in at about 5500 rpm.

Roll On ..

I have the same issue. From 4000RPM it is comming. Above 7000RPM still active. All of us would be happy solving it.
I have recently asked some Honda mechanics: it is V4, it is uneven, or they don't know...I would like to eliminate this vibration.
Not that bad, like on the RSV Mille, but my right hand is off, after 60km, specially on highway.

My 02 with 105,000 mikes on it has had engine related vibration for some time. Never really looked for the source, the the clutch and everything else is original. Maybe I'll hunt down a low milegae clutch assy on flebay.

BR

drdreas

Interesting this season I picked up a similar vibration, get it when riding above 75-80 mph and when engine revs are high. Though it was wheel balancing but when I pull the clutch in and revs drop it goes away. Mine is an 09 with 22k miles. Also have a new chain and sprocket, and tightened the chain last week to see if that would help.

I'm starting to doubt myself... has this vibration always been there, is it just the V4 at higher revs...

pulling in the clutch also slows you down, it could still very easily be a front or rear tire out of balance. A rear tire out of balance will feel virtually the same as a front out of balance, you can still feel it in the bars.

Finding a shop that will spend the time accurately static balance a tire, will be hard to find, if at all.

Switchblade

vlj1216

I have all the parts lined up on eBay, even a new clutch cover as mine is scratched up, and I'm ready to jump into this but I'd hate to order parts and open it up to find its all ok. Dunno if the vibration would be caused by the clutch but the engagement point should be.

When I installed Seb's clutch cover I noticed mine was heavy grooved. I did have a little vibration in at about 5500 rpm.

Roll On ..

I wonder, based on this, what it would feel like if the clutch bearing being bad would throw off a bunch of vibration. I rode my bike down to Long Beach and back yesterday and F me if there isn't a buttload of vibration on my bike now. It's parked until I can figure out what the problem is, or save up the money to get it fixed. Engine is mechanically noisy, hella bad vibration, especially in VTEC and I just don't yet know what it is. I think I am going to spend the $85 to have Jett Tuning to go through it. I'm just done with trying to figure this out. I wish I had a garage and a really good set of tools, but I just have a carport so I can't tear into it without risking dust and grit getting into the engine.

Edit, there is a grinding feeling/noise when the bike is in neutral and the clutch is out. When I pull it in, the noise/feeling disappears. Much worse than it ever has been. I think I have just ridden it too hard and pretended it's a MotoGP bike a few times too many.

Well, after doing a lot of reading, it looks a good bet that my clutch basket may be toast. Everything I could find about the bearing, I.e. throwout bearing in cars, is that I would feel the vibration pulling in the clutch, as that puts pressure on it. Mine is just the opposite. I may just drain the oil soon and give it a look in there. It looks like I will have to buy a specific tool to pull the basket. I also need to change my clutch and brake fluid too. 32K plus miles on them both. Add this to the CCTs needing changed. Ugh. I guess I can't ride it like a bat out of hell in the canyons and on the track and expect it to just keep purring like a Civic. It would be nice, but I'm turning 2X the RPMs with 4X the performance.

Let us know how it looks in there.

I parked my bike next to the wall in my covered parking and put it on the center stand. I ran it in great and the wall reflected sound back. CCTs are really loud. My rear wheel is a little out of balance, but my tire shop all rebalance it for free. The chain has some tight slots also. Basically, it's time, after 32K miles to go through it and throw some money at it. The fork oil needs changed, brakes and clutch needs flushed, CCTs need replaced, hopefully the chain is still good and the clutch needs looking at. The chain is still tight to the sprocket, even with it adjusted on the loose side, but I need to decide if I should change it.

What I'd like to do, is get the shock and cartridge kit from Jaime and a RapidBike with quickshift, (if made) and dyno time. Maybe the aftermarket traction control if I can find one that works for the bike. A different exhaust, probably a Delkevic system. Really, with all of that, I'd probably be ahead of even the 8th Gen VFR, but who knows. Throw on a new front fairing as well, just to round it all out.

Right now, were I in the position to do so, I could get a brand new EBR 1190RX for $9999 plus the usual fees from the local Honda dealer, but that is a little less comfortable than the VFR... Maybe I'll just do an engine swap! :wheel:

I just need to save up the money and get all of this done. Maybe I'll win the lotto and get it all done at once! :goofy:

Now I checked it again. My 6th gen. bike makes a high freq. vibration from 4000rpm and higher. The feeling is not good and stronger on higher rpm. Not only the bars but the seat also does it. My passenger complained, he felt vibration also from the foot pegs. When the vetec switched at 6700rmp, the vibration became even worse.

I checked the most of the bolts are tight.

The tires ate ok and rebalanced.

Honda shop checked the Error codes-nothing.

Air systems, filters and spark plugs are ok.

I found it at open and closed clutch.

But somehow related to the actual engine load and acceleration dynamic.

Might be the clutch plates or the bearing????

Well, I replaced my factory tensioners with manual ones. I took it for a 5 mile test ride and it seems better. I'm going riding for about 125 miles tomorrow, so I'll have a good indication of its condition.

I wanted to add, now that my manual tensioners are in, I have a really cool popping on deceleration. I removed the baffles on my stock exhaust a year ago or so and I don't remember it doing this before. Me likey.

Did any of us finally find the root cause and could eliminate the vibration???

Unfortunately my 6.gen's vibration manner did not change so far. However I managed to find and ask the best expert of these v4s in the local VFR club.

He checked the bike in the service and made a short test ride speeding on the local road. But he found it OK.

He said: could dismount the engine and verify all the components with high effort, and change the complete sealing set. But hardly can imagine if finding any trouble....
But I still feel, mainly on the main roads or on the highway, I would say: when sitting on a 240kg electric shaver!

High freq. vibration comes from engine, frame, bars, pedals and seat when cursing at 5000RPM or higher:(

I try to get another bike for a comparison test run, and his rider has to check both bikes.

I have no idea, and I am sad.It is a common issue, or I feel it too dangerous.

Last weekend I made a test run on the highway. 80km at 7-8k RPM in - 4. gear.

I also added Liqui Moli injector cleaner for this ride, but no improvement till now. ..might come later?

The vibration was rather serious all the way, made me thinking about safety.

I can't imagine if Honda did accept is for serial.

In chopper/touring mode, of for a short dynamic run its hard to find

but it is an issue when speeding in touring sport mode.

(my tyres, chain set, oil are renewed but did not help)

If there is slop in your clutch basket namely the clutch guide p/n
22116-MB0-000 and clutch bearing 91024-MB0-003 you will hear an
audible clutch knock at idle... to test actuate the clutch lever and
the knock should deaden because the inner basket aligns with the outer
basket... release the clutch and the knock returns... but this slop in
your clutch basket can not be the culprit because you report vibration
at crankshaft speed... the clutch is geared to spin at much slower
speed...

To troubleshoot an internal vibration the first step is to establish the
rate at which it occurs... is the vib in time with the camshaft or
crankshaft??? or clutch or chain and sprocket???