I have a 2009 VFR800 with only 18000 kms on it. It was hard to control it on 'commuting' speeds, so I tried to do starter valves sync and took it to a mechanic. After the sync it became really smooth, but agressive - I ride the same way I did, but I always get +5-10 kmh -)
But now I have some strange sound coming from the bike at idle and low rpms - sounds like popping or gurgling, I'm not sure how to describe it - but I made a video [video: https://youtube.com/embed/4J2Ot0qli2s?html5=1&fs=1] . Would anyone be so kind to watch it and help me figure out what the problem is?
I think it's a problem because it became really difficult to start the bike after that sync - I have to press the starter two-three times and only after that it will start. My mechanic says he doesn't know what to do with this, so I'd be glad for some insight on this.
When he did the sync, he told me that 3 valves were in sync, and only the first one (the unadjustable one) had really low pressure, so he adjusted that one.
I would say bad sync as well. I just did my starter valves on my 07 and there was no way to adjust the one valve that you sync the other 3 to. I would re-do the sync and also make sure one of the vacuum lines is not pulled off under there.
Number 4 is the base starter valve that can not be adjusted... adjust 1 2 3 starter valves to match it...
Yep, got it. But that mechanic already changed number 4 valve, how to set it to it's previous value? Right now he synced it to valves 1-2-3, they all were showing same value, only valve 4 was off.
Try getting your money back and use it to buy a 4-way carbtune and do it yourself.
I'll look for some photos so you can see the level they should be at (approx. as may depend on other factors like height above sea level)
ANOTHER QUESTION TO ASK WOULD BE: What is the idle RPM now??
Thanks for the photos! There's no way I'd get my money back, and I don't have a place to work on the bike - no garage or anything.
From what I've been told - He set them all like this, to 20 mm, he told me that 1-2-3 were at 20mm, and only 4 (unadjustable) was significantly lower, so he raised it. This is what I do not understand - How to resync it properly now, if all valves at the same level now with proper RPM.
The cold idle now is around 2500 RPM, and if you ride it might stuck at 4000, but after the engine warms up it stays at 1200-1300 rpm (it will vary a bit, +- 50 rpm), and the only problem is that popping sound and difficulty starting it.
After reading this last description, it is possible he bent the rod that actuates the fast idle at cold temps (would explain how it gets stuck), it happens more often than it should.... and perhaps a vacuum tube is loose (popping noise)...
You'll have to open her up and check. And I would hook a carbtune up to the starter valves and see if they really are set equally at 20 cmHg
Yep, got it. But that mechanic already changed number 4 valve, how to set it to it's previous value? Right now he synced it to valves 1-2-3, they all were showing same value, only valve 4 was off.
The Number 4 starter valve can be set in two positions... 1 is normal idle and 2 is high idle... high idle is the result of someone pulling the starter valve out and turning it so it will not seat normally... visually inspect the length of #4 and see if it matches the length of 2-3-4... if it don't then pull and turn and release until it does seat normally...
I'm having some issues with my starter valves as well and dont want to start another new thread.
I'm in the middle of giving my 6th gen a major service. Today I attempted to set the starter valves while the airbox was already off. The problem is one of the adjusters are missing. No wonder it wouldn't idle properly lately [image: emoji15.png]
The adjuster nut is part of an assembly which costs €50 plus p&p and I'd have to wait a few weeks as its a special order. I have the bike apart for 3 weeks already so can't wait that long and I'm skint anyway from other projects. I've used two nuts and a washer to adjust it for now. It's doing the job but it's nearly impossible to get them synched 100% with my diy fix.
Does anyone have a throttle body for breaking? I'd happily pay for the nut...maybe not €50 though [image: emoji16.png]