I suspect that there is little to no benefit in the Gold Valves on the 4th Gen.
I did fit heavier, linear, Race Tech springs (0.9 kg/mm) with higher viscosity fluid (15W I think) with results which I deemed an improvement over the very soft stock forks.
Disclaimer: I haven't actually taken my 4th Gen compression valves apart so take my reasons below with the necessary pinch of salt.
Honda had not yet come up with the horrendously restrictive HMAS pistons so I strongly suspect that the stock pistons are not that much different from Type 1 GVs i.e. a high flow 3 port design.
G2R comp valves are a dual shim stack design where one stack serves to calibrate the port size. They are certainly highly flexible but you will need a LOT of testing to even begin to figure out how to make the best use of this flexibility.
The standard rebound GVs don't look anything special to me. I suspect that re-shimmed stock pistons can be just as good.
No idea about the HFR rebound valves. The RT blurb sounds good ... make of that what you will. :wink:
Oh, BTW ... my Type 1 compression GVs found their way into the 6th Gen's forks where they do make a world of difference.
I still would not bother to fit them to the 4th Gen.
The FMGV S2040 kit is the traditional Race-Tech compression Gold Valve kit. The G2-R is more advanced, and probably unnecessary for most street riding. Race-Tech used to say that there was no advantage in changing the rebound valves on those forks, but then I think they realised that they could sell a lot more Gold Valves! The bang-for-buck route is S2040s, straight-rate springs and a good fork fluid.
I had my Gen4 forks done at RaceTech years ago. Made a small improvement in handling and feel, but did not transform the bike. Going straight rate spring probably was the majority of the improvement, not sure the Gold Valve accomplished anything revalving the OEM piston wouldn't have. I think a cartridge kit, ala DMR, would be a better route. Also, IMO the RT spring rate calculator yields too high of a spring rate for street bikes. Had three bikes done there and the springs were too firm in all three. Funny, because I've used their calculator on several dirt bike setups and the rates calculated were spot on. YMMV.
Used to live in Garden Grove...you're a long way from home! Plan to ride any of the local roads while you're here?
I weigh about the same as you and settled on 0.9 kg/mm springs because I didn't want to make the forks 'too hard' but I haven't found them to be hard at all. A lot firmer on the brakes but not hard at all in terms of bump compliance.
You do need to reduce the stock assembled preload, RT springs are delivered with enough aluminium tubing to cut a couple of sets of spacers.
If I had to do it again, I might go for 0.95 or even 1.0. As you state, the 210 odd kg 'semi-wet' weight that RT uses seems very low considering that the bike weighs about 240 kg fully tanked.
Another reason I stayed a bit below the RT recommended spring rate is to keep the front/back rates more balanced because I did not intend to replace the stock shock. Not that I found the stock shock all that great mind you but it was already paid for (I'm cheap).
PS: To second what JZH said, I still have the instructions that came with my FMGV S2040 GV kit and they specifically mention the VFR as one model that does not really need new rebound valves even though they say the opposite on their website.
I'll add my support to the statements above about keeping the stock valve bodies. There's a big difference between free-flowing GV's and the restrictive HMAS pistons in 5th and 6th gens, but I would guess not a world of difference for the 4th gen if the pistons are typical Showa 3-port pistons (see my picture below). I used some of the latter in my VTR1000 (which shared the HMAS parts) and I would say the result is very similar to my VFR which has Gold Valves.
I have followed RaceTech's recommended C33 shims set-up for the GV for compression, and I use a softer than RT set-up for rebound (but I do have VTR1000F rebound adjusters in place).
I agree that you should start with the correct springs; I have 0.90kg/mm in the VFR and 0.85 kg/mm in the VTR (which is a lighter bike) and I weigh "around" 85kg.[image: IMG_1367_1.jpg]
I'd add that the side shown is not the one where the comp shim stack sits. The bigger holes are the refill ports. The compression ports are the 4 tiny ones (approx. 1.7 mm diameter). Major difference in flow area with GVs. Not nearly as much difference with the older 3 port ones.
I wouldn't dream of using 15W fluid in HMAS forks as they're already harsh with the stock 10W. I don't remember having any gripe about harshness on the 4th Gen while running the much heavier RT springs and 15W which can only mean that they can flow much more oil.
Assuming you are happy with the shock, I'd match the front spring rate to what you have on the Wilbers according to the ratio given by RT i.e. about 17.8 to 1 (ratio expressed as rear spring rate to one single fork spring).
Any idea what spring rate you have on the shock? It should be printed on the spring in a format like 59/59-180-165.
When I had RT do my forks the first time in 2002, I weighed 160 lbs. They installed the S2040 GV with C34 valving and 0.90kg springs with 15mm spring preload. This setup was way too firm for my liking. A few years later I had them change the springs to 0.85 kg and C33 valving. Even with the lighter springs, I still have the preload adjusters all the way out.
End of thread · 17 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 12 Apr 2016