Another Vf1000 Project

Seems to be a few VF1000 projects so I'll jump in as well.

I just picked up an 84 VF1000F from another VFRD member. You may have seen it (orange) in the classified section. While it is not nearly the deal or in the condition of Jeff's (http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/82676-jeffs-1985-vf1000ff-project/) I still think it is worth the effort of bringing back to its former glory.

The VFRD member I got it from was not the previous owner so not much info came with it. Milage is unknown since there are no gauges. Engine rotates. All 5 gears can be engaged. Plastics look to all be there. Front brake works, rear one sticks. No keys, no battery. Clean title. VA inspection sticker from 2013 so has been sitting since then.

I won't really be able to start in earnest until finishing grad school in March but when I got home last night I did get a chance to look more closely. Plastics, tank, seat, and fuel tank came off.

The plastics are all there and not in bad shape either. Right side fairing had some repair work done in the past. Only noticeable from the back side. Some of the tabs are missing but nothing that cannot be fixed. With no key I did manage to get the fuel cap open. Tank was almost empty with only a few ounces of rotten fuel in it. I got that out and took a look inside. No surprise, significant rust so I'll give POR-15 a try unless someone can suggest something better.

Coolant was only down a few ounces so am assuming no static leaks (we'll see what happens under pressure).

No critters living in the air box. Filter retention spring clip is gone so previous owner used a piece of PVC to hold the filter in place.

Gauges are gone but there is some type of after market gauge spliced in. No idea if it works as there is no power on the bike right now.

Carb slides and butterflies move freely but the choke appears stuck. I'm assuming the bowls weren't properly drained and the carbs are full of varnish.

That said, my general game plan is to try to get it running if only to ensure no major issues or show stoppers. From there, I'll attempt to do a full restoration. I'd like to put it back to as close to original condition as possible.

Near term priorities:

-Carbs

-Fuel Tank

-Pull Cam covers so I can look at the cams.

Pics

Off the trailer and in the garage.

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Before you spend money on POR-15 ... try electrolytic removal first. I was going to get mine steam cleaned but I'm going to try this method first.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-From-A-Motorcycle-Gas-Ta/?ALLSTEPS

Got photos of said bike?? :)

JNBarrett

Before you spend money on POR-15 ... try electrolytic removal first. I was going to get mine steam cleaned but I'm going to try this method first.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-From-A-Motorcycle-Gas-Ta/?ALLSTEPS

Got photos of said bike?? :)

Thanks. Like to ID all options before I jump in with strong chemicals. Last tank I did (82 XS650) wasn't this bad. I used Kream but will never use that stuff again. I'm pretty sure it doesn't deal with ethanol very well.

-Pics added-

I will do a proper introduction thread later (with pictures), but this is the short version. I have an old 84 VF1000FE that I've had for ages, but sadly I've neglected it lately and it is in a state similar with the described above. It has gone as bad that I aquired a 2002 VTEC just to have something to ride.

Well, the reason for me to write in this thread is to tell you about my recent tank cleaning experience. I also considered electrolytic removal of rust, but a look inside the tank made me drop that idea rather quickly, since it requires direct "line of sight" with the anode to work and the VF tank is not straight enough to work imho.

Instead I chose to use a weak acidic internal bath. I used phosphoric acid if I remember correctly. It worked well above expectation, everything got sqeaky clean. After the cleansing bath I used baking soda to stop the process and after that lots of water.

I'm still not sure what to do with the raw metal inside the tank. I just filled it up with petrol.

Sorry about any mishaps language wise, my phone wants to auto-correct to swedish.

Skickat från min D5503 via Tapatalk

So, I am supposed to be writing a chapter for our group capstone paper. I am doing that but keep getting drawn back to the garage and various web pages.

Spent some more time with the fuel tank. The fuel level sending unit (body) is covered in rust but when I hooked it up to an ohmmeter it gave reasonable results so looks like that should be ok.

The inside of the tank is well rusted but there is also some kind of sealant coming up. Not sure if that is OEM or done by a PO but it will need to come out before I can fully tackle the rust.

Lastly, I pulled the fuel petcock and it is in great shape. I suspect it was replaced by a PO.

Anyway, that got me thinking about the standpipes inside the tank. No way to access those so back to the internet. That said, standpipes are reasonably clear as I can put air through all of them.

After re-reading this thread, http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/82524-new-to-me-86-vfr700/I will definitely avoid the POR-15 lining as I don't want to clog up the screens or standpipes. I am thinking of using their first step product that supposedly removes any previous lining. From there, I'll try liquid plumber and see where it ends up. Now back to the paper.

Hawkeye Driver

Thanks. Like to ID all options before I jump in with strong chemicals. Last tank I did (82 XS650) wasn't this bad. I used Kream but will never use that stuff again. I'm pretty sure it doesn't deal with ethanol very well.

Electrolytic process only uses Washing Soda (baked baking soda) and water. No strong chemicals involved! :)

The bike doesn't look to bad by the photos. Keep us updated!

SweViffer

I also considered electrolytic removal of rust, but a look inside the tank made me drop that idea rather quickly, since it requires direct "line of sight" with the anode to work and the VF tank is not straight enough to work imho.

Hogwash ... you just need some ingenuity. Cut rubber hose into very small sections and slide it over the anode ... you can get the anode deep into the tank this way without worrying about it touching the inside of the tank. :)

Soon we will have a renaming of this site to VFdiscussion.com................. :goofy:

Keep them coming out of the woodwork guys!!!

This guy has good ideas :

http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rrust.html

Check if there is an add on sensor for that gauge thing, should be easy to tell how they set it up. Would be like a magnet on the brake rotor bolt and a sensor on the fork. If you cleaned up the blank plate it is mounted to you could add some clean round gauges for coolant temp and tach and look really cool. That is if you don't want to source an original cluster anyway.

Wow switchblade that site rules, talk about old school internet style.

It Lives!

Been busy but did find some time to check things out and finally get it to run. Now I can start with the full tear down.

-Fuel tank - Lots of rust inside but looks and feels solid. Fuel sending unit still works.

-Found a couple of sets of used gauges so deleted the aftermarket unit.

-Went through most of the electrics and everything appears to be in order. The neutral switch does sometimes stick but that should be easy to sort out.

-Carbs came off and to my disappointment, the bowls had not been drained. That said, the carbs weren't gummed up as much as I thought. Mostly disassembled each carb and somewhat cleaned with an ultrasonic clean.

-I know the fuel pump works because I got a face full of gas when I shorted the connection to the relay. Not sure how gummed up it might be.

-Clutch doesn't fully disengage so will have to look into that.

-Starter was toast but found another one locally.

-Took the rear cam cover off and the lobes all look solid. Can't get to the front one without taking off the radiator.

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Almost sounds like it could be an exhaust leak at the head or, dare I say, do those things have cam chain tensioners??

CandyRedRC46

Almost sounds like it could be an exhaust leak at the head or, dare I say, do those things have cam chain tensioners??

Thanks, Didn't think of that but the tick does sound a lot like the noise I got when blew a header gasket on my 02. Will look when the pipes come off.

Alas, the 1000F used cam chains, the 1000R used gears.

I'm loving this and looking forward to following your progress! What are your plans for that orange paint?