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Beginning of my VF build

18 posts Started 30 Aug 2016 Last recovered post 28 May 2017 Wayback Machine snapshot 7 Jun 2017
#1 Forbes Thread starter

Sometimes it takes just one thing to get you motivated....

I've been collecting bits and pieces. Decided on VF 1000 rear rim, Comstar, 17". Then I found a CBR600f being stripped, thinking of just the shock, ended up walking away with swingarm, linkages, and caliper. It's 10mm wider at pivot point, but I've already planned how. Now I can fit a 170 tyre, maybe a 180, but it may run too close to the chain. Time will tell....[image: e0e65f53a76ff31544716dfe6109c80c.jpg]

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#2 Dutchy

Even a 1,000 mile march begins with a 1st step!!

#3 tuningforkranch

I cannot tell you how many times I have started with just a frame and a badass idea!….

#4 Forbes Thread starter

As said, been collecting bits. Starting with nothing tools wise, that's what happens when you move continents, I baught a small sandblaster to clean up all bits, no sand I know, beads.
Got these clip ons and short adjustable levers, I like the colouring, black with the red cam swivel. Bike is going to be gun metal grey frame with grey paint, colour to be decided, with red detailed bits here and there, as per shock.

[image: f3bb19dfb658d8127affd23527aff869.jpg]

I have posted elsewhere but am going to consolidate here. Using VF1000 rear 17" widened to run hopefully a 170 tyre, going to keep the 16"front.
Found a local cam grinding shop , Brisbane, Australia, that did development work with HRC and are still willing to work on the quad cams. Expensive, but not doing this for resale.
Want to look at roller rocker option too.

These arrived today, from the USA, did not realize he does a 'coil on plug' harness for them. Second hand cdi' s are selling for $200.00 each here, paid about that for two posted. They are programmable for dwell angle and rev limiter..... Look here, v4spark.com

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Going to use this idea off the forum for oil breather/collector.

[image: 0a269fc39cb092a983fa3308efc87569.jpg]

And Seb's clear clutch window, not going to post from AUS, so I'll look at doing it myself once I've baught a lathe.

[image: 7ea92173bec910929f668ade8b792229.jpg]

Dreaming of the build but it will start soon.
Loving the ideas posted on other threads.

Thanks
Craig

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#5 Forbes Thread starter

How things change as we go....
Going to keep the VF1000 rear rim for the next build. Found a set of 43mm CBR 600 4Fi forks, they are being posted up from Victoria. I had the tripples from the frame I got with the swingarm, the bearings are the same, good on you Honda, just have to extend the pin by about an inch. So I went back and got the Nissan front calipers from my swingarm guy... Of set is about 20mm back compared to stock, so less turning angle, but being wider apart than stock forks they turn into the existing notch in the radiators. Finally had a weekend off, so removed the rear shock mount, VF is offset to the left of centre to fit the battery in..... I'm going lithium under tail section.
Happy that something's happening, but oh to be at the end!
Some pics.[image: 8032967707760e259af8c1aca3f9d7f8.jpg][image: 16ce2578117c61d2a32c1bcf6c1e96eb.jpg][image: 5840ee359d9436954d5d511f8a6edb25.jpg][image: d450dbb4bb0be31b1e668ed695c7f1a9.jpg][image: 6e076a04ee91e87e9365c3aa42a64685.jpg][image: 2b068bc09c165fa914bfd95f2c824b2e.jpg]

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#6 CBVFRbikeboy

Keep at it. I like where this is heading.

cheers

#7 Forbes Thread starter
CBVFRbikeboy Keep at it. I like where this is heading.
 
cheers

It's going slow... Have done a bit more. Got the CBR swingarm in, not fully mounted, going to get a special bolt turned so I can retain the original mounts in the frame. Got the forks in position, still to extend lower triple pin, but as discussed with Seb, I'm going to have to change to full handlebars. The 4fi forks are about 80mm shorter than the VF's but it's going to work well I know![image: 4ffd66c9170345e315856277b24e1920.jpg]

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#8 SEBSPEED

80mm shorter...

How much of the stock forks stick above the upper triple(X)? You gain that at minimum by switching to riser and handlebar, as you can then flush them to the top. 

My basic drop triple locates the top of the fork on the same plane as the top of the lock nut stack which the bottom of the upper triple interfaces with. There is a difference in height btween that plane and the top of the upper triple (Y).

Additionally, I can machine the bottom of my drop triple to gain a few more precious mm's if needed (Z).

So, start by calculating for (X) & (Y), post your results here and see if it's close to 80mm. My gut ells me you'll fall within 10mm of original, which is a normal amount to adjust height for improving steering anyhow.

Feel free to pm me if you like.

#9 Forbes Thread starter

I really think it's going to work by switching to riser and handlebar, the test will be wheel travel...then I may need new triples moving the fork offset forward again. But looking at the axle position compared to my stock vf in relation to the frame line, it's not going to be more than 10-15mm lower if any....heavier bike, stiffer springs, may be needed that's all.

Once it's rolling, motor in then I'll manufacture exhaust. The only niggle in my mind at this time is realigning the rear wheel to the front. If I can't squeeze the chain in retaining the 180*17 tyre, I might have to drop to a 170*17.

The cbr swingarm is ten mm wider than the vf, so I removed material from the frame on the chain side and cut into the frame on the clutch side, still to 're-brace that section but picture shows how snug it is. This means that the wheel will be 5-7mm off centre which for me will be the tricky part trying to keep the wider tyre....[image: c3062595e1d49d93d7a6b38259f9e9a2.jpg]

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#10 SEBSPEED

I always try to narrow the arm before touching the frame - much less compromise imo. 

In the past I've removed the dust seals from the arm, shaved the arm flush w the outer bearing, then replaced the bearing with a sealed unit to make up for the loss of seal. 

#12 Forbes Thread starter
SEBSPEED I always try to narrow the arm before touching the frame - much less compromise imo. 
 
In the past I've removed the dust seals from the arm, shaved the arm flush w the outer bearing, then replaced the bearing with a sealed unit to make up for the loss of seal. 

Mmm, have another two project bikes now and another cbr swingarm waiting in the wings. But the other issue is the actual arms of the swingarm would still foul the frame, it's that close. I'd have to take a picture from the rear or from the center of the motor looking back to show you.

The center of the chain guide on the standard setup is 24mm from the frame, on the cbr swingarm as it sits now it's 12mm from the frame. These things I can only sort when motor is in, I have my ideas already but won't voice them now.....

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#13 Forbes Thread starter
SEBSPEED IE:
 
[image: 20151123_171349-1_zps5wgef0o9.jpg]
 
[image: 20151123_172859_zps3zh1ge4h.jpg]
 
[image: 20151123_172958_zps8oxnqanw.jpg]
 
[image: 20151123_184431_zpsur6fnaib.jpg]
 
[image: 20160109_172855_zpscvxgx9vc.jpg]

I did think of that, but didn't think of the sealed bearing.
On the picture with the vernier how far down the swingarm did you machine? I was concerned about the structural integrity of the swingarm and not knowing it's casting thickness stopped there.

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#14 SEBSPEED

Want to say it was 5mm total. 

Both the gsxrs I've built where I've swapped in arms and wider wheels, I had to use offset front sprockets, narrowed swingarms, widened frames, and also ground radiused channels in the frames for chain clearance. 

My CB900F uses a RC30 front sprocket which is 1/4" offset standard, check your spline dwgs to see if that will work for you

#16 Forbes Thread starter

Ok, time flies, suppose that's why projects take so long....after getting a hi-tenstile bar to my newfound machinist, he's made one swingarm bolt so far, I've ordered two for next project. Not fully complete but I'm happy there's some progress. Went around yesterday and made the infill plate for the frame where I cut into it and clarified some details so he can complete all bushes and lock bolt.
As you'll see in the picture the new bolt uses the existing thread on the left of the frame. It seems a small part of the build but it's probably the most important, everything else will piggyback of this.
[image: 530be2dec61f15e7a73832f0fcb70995.jpg][image: 084135739fadd299ac41a8971084deec.jpg]

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#18 Forbes Thread starter

Seb, thanks for the hint on the RC30 front sprocket, will definitely make things easier. For any that missed it, this chart popped up on someone's feed....good to keep for reference!

[image: c69e799be5ad44b2bea5e513560ba595.jpg]

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End of thread · 18 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 7 Jun 2017