VFRDiscussion ARCHIVE / READ-ONLYREAD-ONLY

Vfr 750 - 92

51 posts Started 22 Mar 2017 Last recovered post 12 Jun 2017 Wayback Machine snapshot 10 Jul 2017

#1

So after sneaking around for some days, I finally registered. 

Short presentation: from Sweden, been riding for 10 years, first bike was a Ducati 748 Sp troy bayliss replica, followed by 929 fireblade, husky 410, yamma 1100 dragstar, yamma 950 Bolt and now finally the vfr 750 of 1992.

I'll be posting everything I might tinkle on and try to improve on the bike. Hopefully I'll find alot of the help and info here and/or get some help from you guys 👍😊

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#2

First started of trying to clean up the windscreen. Read about using toothpaste, headlight cleaning appliances and nothing helped. 

It even got a little bit worse or nothing happened. 

So I tried something I've been doing on car bumpers for years: heat gun. Worked like a charm! 

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#3

Hi Jock,

Welcome home! Nice VFR - and a nice eclectic collection of previous bikes, too! That's a great tip on clearing the windshield hazing/cloudiness. I hadn't heard that before.

Cheers,

Glenn 

#4

+1 - Welcome home!

I had or rather have the same issue with mine.

It was bad enough to warrant drastic measures and it is still not perfect, but MUCH better than it was.

Here is what I did:

1 - Wet sand with the finest grit sandpaper you can find.  Use your judgement depending on depths of scratches.

2 - Compound buff

3 - Repeat with decreasing grit of sandpaper and compound.

It's a tedious process and will not give you New appearance, but will get you 90% there to pass the 5 foot appearance test.

It may be easier to just buy a better looking shield.

#5

Thanks a lot for the welcome! 

I firstly went over with a 320 grain, next was with 600 something, 1200 and finally a 3200 grain. Everything always with water and lubricant. But I found out that to get rid of the small amount of lines from the sanding I went over the screen with some heat to make them disappear 😊pattienc isn't my best friend haha 

#6

Next up was to repack the silencer, previous owner had everything removed from it, and I shortened it with 15cm as I had it loose. 

Got rid of the center stand and took all of the rust of from the bottom fairings. 

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#7

Okey, removed left foot peg and on the back side of it, there was a weight. Whatta!? Why?

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#8

Probably vibration damping to prevent tingling, ticklish feet.

#9

Aha! Never seen that before. #removedweight 🙃

#10

Welcome to the asylum Jock3. You obviously have good taste in mc's.

As I've had much of the non-motor parts disassembled over time, I've observed that there are rubber vibration dampers all over the great machines. It's one of the fabulous features of these terrific machines.

#11

FYI, 4th gen peg hangers fit 3rd gens, and look a bit less "weighty".

Ciao,

#12

I hesitate to contradict my good friend John, but swapping 4th gen brackets to a 3rd gen is more involved than it appears.

Whilst it is true that the 4th gen footage brackets will bot straight into place there are problems. Iirc, on the left side side there with the small metal fairing.

The right side is complicated due to the rear brake master cylinder and the heat shield. Nothing unsurmountable, but it complicates what looks at first like a straight exchange.

On the other hand, you can easily fit the 2000-2009 mirrors for a sleeker look.

#13

Very good tips there!

I'm buying aftermarket foot brackets. Since I want inverted shifting and have always had that on my sports. Is there any chance tips what fits? 

Pardon my English 😆

This is how my mirrors look, easy to get rid of to track days 

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#14
Lorne, 3/25/2017 at 2:06 AM

I hesitate to contradict my good friend John, but swapping 4th gen brackets to a 3rd gen is more involved than it appears.

Whilst it is true that the 4th gen footage brackets will bot straight into place there are problems. Iirc, on the left side side there with the small metal fairing.

The right side is complicated due to the rear brake master cylinder and the heat shield. Nothing unsurmountable, but it complicates what looks at first like a straight exchange.

On the other hand, you can easily fit the 2000-2009 mirrors for a sleeker look.

Sorry, Lorne, I wasn't thinking about stock bikes... No metal fairing pieces on my 3rd gen, nor RHS heat shield!20161124_202907.thumb.jpg.8107bebcf6e342f43fe54bb0afc72a9b.jpg

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Ciao,

#15

No sweat, John, I only mentioned it because I tried to make that swap to my '91 in 1996. 

The '94-'97 look far nicer, and a more talented fabricator than I could have sorted out those minor hiccups. Of course, everyone is a better fabricator than I am  :mellow:

#16
Lorne, 3/25/2017 at 2:06 AM

On the other hand, you can easily fit the 2000-2009 mirrors for a sleeker look.

Nope. You can fit the 98-2001, beyond that - they won't fit as the mounting holes are spaced differently.

#17

Thanks alot for all the tips! 😄 

#18

My wife bought me new gear 😄had to be tested 👍

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#19
11 hours ago, 750

Nope. You can fit the 98-2001, beyond that - they won't fit as the mounting holes are spaced differently.

 Oops, good catch. I wrongly assumed that Honda used the same mirrors on the VTec series.

The 5th gen VFR800 had the old condom-type mirrors till 2000 - I swapped to a set of the sleeker style mirrors for my '99 VFR800 back in 2001. A few years later I swapped them onto my '92 VFR750. 

Edited March 28 by Lorne
correct my phrasing
#20

So, after a good long day at work, I got home...and did more work. 

Removed the plastic guard in front of the snorkel. Happy days. And mounted a bmc sport filter as well 👍

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#21

The snorkel increases the velocity of the air into the air box, removing it is futile - it'll make the bike a bit noisier and that's about it, might create flat spots in the rev range

#22

Oh, I didn't remove the snorkel, just the plastics between the radiator and the inlet. 

No driving today... It's snowing again 🙁

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#23

The plastics are meant to act as a heat shield to stop the air flow from warming up. Doubt it'd make much difference but every degree counts!

I'd be out riding in that if I had to get somewhere, not if it was for "fun" though...as that's no fun!

#24

Marked chicken stripe on the tire to measure lean angle after driving 👍

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#25

I hope that is the "before riding" picture!  :beer:

#26
7 hours ago, slovcan

I hope that is the "before riding" picture!  :beer:

Haha well yes of course!! 😄 

#27

Whent through some old photos (in case of rain and snow outside, always reminisce to the days one could ride) in the cell phone and found these. 

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#28

Today I drove 30km of total 100km on a vfr. It's been 6 years since I rode a sportbike.  My striping on the rear tire to analyse my lean angle shows so far 5mm more leaning towards the left than my right. 

It'll be interesting to see how that develops since it's just the beginning of the season here in Sweden. 

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#29

5mm is not much difference, really, unless you're working things out and training on a race track. Most riders in drive-on-the-right countries may be predisposed to lean more and more naturally to the right. Then there is the variable of the crown of the road depending on your lane position when leaning over.

Cheers,

Glenn

#30
10 hours ago, slovcan

5mm is not much difference, really, unless you're working things out and training on a race track. Most riders in drive-on-the-right countries may be predisposed to lean more and more naturally to the right. Then there is the variable of the crown of the road depending on your lane position when leaning over.

Cheers,

Glenn

I know, good input though! 👍.  

I am trying to find my way on the bike and looking for adjustments before track days. One thing is for sure, I've to move the foot pegs since they will be in a to flat angle for me 😕

#31

So far, 800km done 

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#32

So. The first track day went beyond good. I rode with some more inexperienced riders, but with everything from bmw s1000rr and aprilia touno apc to triumph Tiger 800. The bike did great! But, I felt like my tires was really slippery.

Got them to good temperatures but still they wanted to skid in some turnes. 

What tires are you using? 

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#33

Hej Jock!

I use the same Michelin PR4 as you on my 6th gen, and I have not experienced any slippage. I've only done Knix on a go-kart track, but I was able to lean the bike down so far that the exhaust on the right side (the part that exits the catalyst) touched the ground and then full throttle (with VTEC transition) without the rear tire losing grip.

I did notice some extra leaning when initiating turn ins when the tires were cold, but the grip was there if I pushed them.

I'm really REALLY impressed with the PR4's! Please tell me if you find anything better though. :-)

#34
3 hours ago, SweViffer

Hej Jock!

I use the same Michelin PR4 as you on my 6th gen

Hi! 

This Knix was on Gröndal, you might be familiar with it? 

I looked on the treads for the rear tire and it looks like, if I interpret it right, as if my rebound was either to stiff och to loose. Any suggestions? 

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#35
Jock3, 2017-03-31 at 10:36 PM

Whent through some old photos (in case of rain and snow outside, always reminisce to the days one could ride) in the cell phone and found these. 

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Did you like the Ducati 748? I'd have kept that and the VFR in the garage. That would be the perfect 1-2 combo. 

BTW good read, keep the stories coming.

#36
Jock3, 25/03/2017 at 4:24 PM

I'm buying aftermarket foot brackets. Since I want inverted shifting and have always had that on my sports. Is there any chance tips what fits? 

CBR900RR up to 1996 or so fit, as do 2007-2008 Yamaha R1.

Nice bike, enjoy!

#37
13 hours ago, auggius

Did you like the Ducati 748? I'd have kept that and the VFR in the garage. That would be the perfect 1-2 combo. 

BTW good read, keep the stories coming.

The 748 was beautiful! Loved the handling and the nimble feel of it. It went exactly where you want it to go. 

Thanks! I'll be posting more 😊👍

#38
5 hours ago, The Phantom

CBR900RR up to 1996 or so fit, as do 2007-2008 Yamaha R1.

Nice bike, enjoy!

Thanks alot!! 

#39

I did consider buying a 748 as replacement for redslut; but the VTR1000R-SP2 won....

#40
5 hours ago, Dutchy

I did consider buying a 748 as replacement for redslut; but the VTR1000R-SP2 won....

That is a very good decision 😊👍

#41

So, after some evaluation of the tire, I found out that it was 0.7bar under inflated (😱😱😱) and I hope it is due because of a faulty nozzle and not because of anything else. Filled it up with some 2017 air from the compressor and hope to see leakage. 

It might be old rubber and the lack of the bike being ridden often by the previous owner this has been overlooked. 

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#42

Cause of pressure loss in the tire : broken air nozzle. 👍

#43
2 hours ago, Jock3

Cause of pressure loss in the tire : broken air nozzle. 👍

Every new tire should automatically get a new valve unless the existing valve is a good metal one. Then it should get a new core. Why dealers and service guys who mount the tires won't just spend the extra 10 cents for safety is beyond me.

Cheers,

Glenn

#44
Jock3, 5/30/2017 at 11:46 AM

. Filled it up with some 2017 air

The new vintage air is usually best. :beer:

#45
10 hours ago, VFR4Lee

The new vintage air is usually best. :beer:

Haha usually I use premium winter air. Filtered through old socks. What a difference 😉😆

#46
11 hours ago, slovcan

Every new tire should automatically get a new valve unless the existing valve is a good metal one. Then it should get a new core. Why dealers and service guys who mount the tires won't just spend the extra 10 cents for safety is beyond me.

Cheers,

Glenn

I know, even though I bought the bike "recently serviced" I believe they've missed some good stuff.... 

#47
4 hours ago, Jock3

I know, even though I bought the bike "recently serviced" I believe they've missed some good stuff.... 

Yes, I found a few obvious things on mine that were "missed" during the dealer servicing the previous owner had done, too.

#48
9 minutes ago, slovcan

Yes, I found a few obvious things on mine that were "missed" during the dealer servicing the previous owner had done, too.

What did you find? 😧

#49
13 minutes ago, Jock3

What did you find? 😧

The 2 that come to mind were loose coolant hose clamps and the bracket that holds the thermostat housing to the engine wasn't reconnected. Just little things, but still made me check everything else when the plastic was off. Wiring not in frame clamps in a few places was something else. Oh yeah, the poorly soldered rear turn signal wiring wrapped in duct tape was another thing, but that was so bad it couldn't have been the dealer's work. And of course, broken tabs - haste and carelessness. 

Cheers,

Glenn

#50

"Major" service, valves, fluids, etc, at indy shop did not detect big axle nut was going to come loose in a few hundred miles.

With crappy and expensive results. I will not go back there. :mad:

So, check the rear axle nut!

#51

In the making of a rear hub axle ☺️28,50mm 👍

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End of thread · 51 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 10 Jul 2017