I went for a 40 mile spin today on 28 south of Deal's Gap, and I am getting more and more disappointed with my brakes. I just (1000 miles ago) had the fluid changed and the pads were OK. Still, the brakes are mushy.
How difficult is a braided steel conversion with the linked brake system? Is there a pre-made kit or do you have to make the lines up
I had a mechanic do the work and I have this sneaking feeling that there maybe some lines in the linked mechanism that were not properly purged, just a feeling.
2000 VFR.
Please forgive me as I'm sure this has been partially covered before, but I could not find it in the search function. :)
I believe Galfer has a SS line kit for the 2000 VFR. It's expensive and complicated to install. Also, I doubt it would improve the situation much. I switched my SV650S to steel lines and the only difference I felt was a distinct lightness in my wallet.
The best course of action is to just bleed the system again. I would bet the "mechanic" that switched you fluid did a half-ass bleed job.
kerplode, Mar 25 2005, 03:44 AMBTW, I just checked out your Scooter Page...I'm totally jealous! That F4 is stunning! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :beer:
I just checked it out and god I hope he is a poser. I'm so jealous I could shit liquid envy. Great rides, great taste, great garage, if his skills match his equipment his Kung-fu is trully strong.
kerplode, Mar 25 2005, 03:33 AMI believe Galfer has a SS line kit for the 2000 VFR. It's expensive and complicated to install. Also, I doubt it would improve the situation much. I switched my SV650S to steel lines and the only difference I felt was a distinct lightness in my wallet.
The best course of action is to just bleed the system again. I would bet the "mechanic" that switched you fluid did a half-ass bleed job.
Switching over to Galfer SS lines made my brakes feel solid and got rid of 99% of the mushyness from the system. Granted that I don't have the linked brake system on my 95, I think that with proper bleeding, Im sure the 5th and 6th gen's brake feel can be improved with SS lines. :thumbsup:
I finally installed the Galfer kit on my '98. The stainless steel upgrade totally made the brakes feel firmer and the bike stops right now! For me though, I found one complaint with the Galfer kit and that is how their lines fit into the two exsisting bundy tubes for the linked system. The Galfer setup caused a nasty bend in the lines and no real good way to attach those two lines to the bike. I searched every race shop and hose shop in the US and abroad and determined that there isn't an elbow made with 10x1.00mm inverted flare on one side and a male 10x1.00m thread with an "olive" on the other for fitting into the Galfer line. After three weeks of searching, I found a wonderful English company that makes some really nice brake line kits, among other things - and their VFR kit has stainless elbows with the correct inverted flare side. For the other side, I had to cut the threaded connector of the Galfer line and swage the elbow on. The cost for the two stainless elbows was a bit steep ($181.00 including shipping) I'd recommend contacting Simon Lane [sales@h-e-l.co.uk] HEL for their VFR brake line kit. Its a bit more expensive but seems a bit nicer than the Galfer. Colored lines, colored steel fittings and titanium fittings are also available
kerplode, Mar 25 2005, 03:44 AMBTW, I just checked out your Scooter Page...I'm totally jealous! That F4 is stunning! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :beer:
In every bike-show I go to, the F4 is the best looking bike of all (The Benelli and the 999 is close). A dream ride in my life unfortunately... (trying real hard to hold back my tears...) My only tiny tiny comfort is that it is outrun in bike tests
Doubt no longer. SS lines from Galfer recently installed on my '98 made a big difference, very solid feel. With the EBC HH pads I've now got all the brakes I need.
At present I only have the VFR and the Transalp, sadly, the rest is a trip down memory lane. :)
So... the MV is long gone. Nice bike. Sounded like shreading silk on full boil.
Here is a pic of the hugger and fender, both from casoli of England as well as some cool tiny (illegal) turn signals I bought out of Germany. They were machined out of aluminum and very well made.
I went with HH pads long ago, big difference, HH+ pads if you can get them make a huge difference up front. Its just that the LBS has so much pipe in there its hard to keep them feeling like a standard bike with shorter lines.
sparkydog21, Mar 25 2005, 03:36 AMI finally installed the Galfer kit on my '98. .. The Galfer setup caused a nasty bend in the lines .. After three weeks of searching, I found a wonderful English company ...http://www.h-e-l.co.uk/index.htm
HispanicSlammer, Mar 25 2005, 08:32 AMI went with HH pads long ago, big difference, HH+ pads if you can get them make a huge difference up front. Its just that the LBS has so much pipe in there its hard to keep them feeling like a standard bike with shorter lines.
Thanks, might try that prior to the re-plumb. Where do you get them? I can vaguely remember seeing them in a catalog, but cannot recall which one??
A combination of HH pads and a re-bleed of the system may help.
Another trick is to tie the lever back and let it stay that way overnight. Any bubbles in the system may work their way to the top and disperse. The brakes will feel much better in the morning.
UroTrash, Mar 25 2005, 06:37 AMThanks, might try that prior to the re-plumb. Where do you get them? I can vaguely remember seeing them in a catalog, but cannot recall which one??
EBC sells just about everywhere they make an HH for the VFR, But if you can find DP HH+ go for those instead they offer even more bite than the HH. Motorcyclist Mag put some on thier Long Term VTEC and it improved brake feel dramatically Here is the webby they have a dealer locator, dont go with HH in the back or you will be locking up too easy.
HispanicSlammer, Mar 25 2005, 09:07 AMEBC sells just about everywhere they make an HH for the VFR, But if you can find DP HH+ go for those instead they offer even more bite than the HH. Motorcyclist Mag put some on thier Long Term VTEC and it improved brake feel dramatically Here is the webby they have a dealer locator, dont go with HH in the back or you will be locking up too easy.
As for replacing the lines, I'd suggest simply replacing the lines from the MC at the bar to the front calipers. I think you can replace the single line (and the associated plumbing at the front wheel) with a pair of SS for about $100.
UroTrash, Mar 25 2005, 01:26 PMAt present I only have the VFR and the Transalp, sadly, the rest is a trip down memory lane. :)
Thanks for the pics! So cool to paint the carbon! Most others would have to show it off! I did a front fender for a friend and painted it the original colour. but we couldn't help but to leave a thin stripe clearcoated... embarrassing, but I'll do it again.
The old forum had a good write up of bleeding the linked brakes, and I would guess that it was transferred to the new one. Check it out, it's very detailed in the order in which you should bleed the system. Maybe the mechanic didn't do it properly, and left out a step or two.
Sometimes the brakes need to be bled many times over until it is good. Many have suggested tieing the lever back all night, which causes the air in the lines to make it's way back into the master cylinder. Worth a try me thinks.
kerplode, Mar 24 2005, 10:33 PMI believe Galfer has a SS line kit for the 2000 VFR. It's expensive and complicated to install. Also, I doubt it would improve the situation much.
i might have believed the same thing too. but last night after comparing squidwards brake feel since his stainless line change all i can say is...wow! its amazing that a vfr brake lever can be that mush free. i was impressed almost to the point of doing mine......but the wife (bank account controller) said nope.......not now
767fixer, Mar 26 2005, 10:59 AMi might have believed the same thing too.� but last night after comparing squidwards brake feel since his stainless line change all i can say is...wow!� its amazing that a vfr brake lever can be that mush free.� i was impressed almost to the point of doing mine......but the wife (bank account controller) said nope.......not now
I tell ya agin Fixer, all you need is about $100 for lines on the front. You neither need nor really want braided lines all around. Our bikes are much easier to do the front lines on than the Gen 5s.
767fixer, Mar 26 2005, 04:59 PMi might have believed the same thing too. but last night after comparing squidwards brake feel since his stainless line change all i can say is...wow! its amazing that a vfr brake lever can be that mush free. i was impressed almost to the point of doing mine......but the wife (bank account controller) said nope.......not now
When it comes to stuff that I present as safety issues, the purse opens more easily. I know I'm a creep I know... :(
vfrjim2002, Mar 26 2005, 10:48 AMI tell ya agin Fixer, all you need is about $100 for lines on the front. You neither need nor really want braided lines all around. Our bikes are much easier to do the front lines on than the Gen 5s.
There is a tech person by the name of Michelle (or, perhaps Melissa - I'm having a senior moment right now and can't recall) who can walk you through the process of getting exactly what you want.
I added Galfers to my VTR and it really did nothing to improve the braking performance. Although it did look a little cooler. In the end I decided I don't care what the brakes feel like as long as they feel and do the same thing each time I go for them. I'll leave the VFR alone.
I changed brake lines on my 4th gen last year and the difference is noticable. I bought at loca dealer SS lines with specific lenght with banjos I needed and it worked fine. With brakes bleeding, I experienced I got bubbled the master cylinder. What helps is open the top canister and tickle the brake lever just gently, you should see tiny small bubbles going up from the master cylinder. Do it until it stops.
With mine we spent about half an hour on each side bleeding the living crap out of them. the levers are TIGHT now. There is now play, it's just there. I think a lot of the problem is the way the lines are, there's places to get air trapped in them and you really have to work all of the bubbles out. Bleed 'em really good. Tie the lever back overnight, then bleed them again the next day. My friend and I seriously spent a lot of time bleeding these things, but I think it's more than worth it.
End of thread · 30 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 24 Apr 2005
