OK, time to change the oil. As I bought the bike second hand - no manual. How much oil goes into it, and what the best oil filter? Any special gadgets needed? Any tricks I should know?
Thanks for you input.
How much oil goes into it
3.0L (3.2 US qt) after draining
what is the best oil filter
I use the Honda item (since its readily available at the local stealership and not too pricey, but I'm sure other options exist)
Any special gadgets needed?
An oil filter wrench makes the job easier (One that fits over the end of the filter, not the strap type)- I picked one up at the local Pep Boys for about $5.
Any tricks I should know?
Not really. Pretty straightforward, actually.
Thanks for you input.
No problem!
Spend the extra few cents at the dealership for a new crush washer for the drain plug, too.
I am not sure about the differences between the 700 an 750 besides the cc's, but
here you can find a scan of the 86/87 750 owners manual and others, like the Honda Common Service Manual.
A trick for removal of the filter... if you have no filter-tool (like me), you already went to the store once for oil (like me), and yer hand ain't cuttin' it (like me)... try this. I used a piece of anti-slip-mat from a kitchen drawer (a jar-opening rubber thingy will work too) and a belt; wrapped the slip-mat and belt around the filter in a reverse winding fashion so that when you pull the loose end of the belt, it tightens around the filter and rubber and tries to unwind itself by spinning the filter in a counter-clockwise direction ... does that make sense??
Yah its straight forward any one armed three toed monkey can change the oil on these things.
Just take your time taking the plastic off! Its made of god knows what! Look at it cross eyed and it will crack on you so just be careful with that ok.
With regards to special tools? Nah nothing special its so darn open you really don't need any thing special. Just remember before you install the new oil filter lube up the rubber gasket with some old oil and don't over tighten the dam thing! Hand tight should be good enough ok! So no power tools to install the new oil filter.
Now here is what you can do to help keep things clean. pick up some aluminum foil and wrap up your headers before you start this way they won't get covered in oil.
And don't stress it, its super easy!
The oil change was a snap. I didn't even need the tool to get the filter off. The tin foil was helpful!
I decided to change the air filter while I was at it. Man did it need it. I think it sucked an entire swarm of bees in there!
I opted for the non-aerospace oil that was only $5 a quart at the stealership. Do you guys think the totally synthetic oil is worthwhile at $9 a quart. I'm not doing any GP racing. It seemed like a lot for the $5 a quart variety.
DMACK, Feb 19 2006, 10:59 PMI opted for the non-aerospace oil that was only $5 a quart at the stealership. Do you guys think the totally synthetic oil is worthwhile at $9 a quart. I'm not doing any GP racing. It seemed like a lot for the $5 a quart variety.
Two oil flame threads at once! lurk.gif
I wondered the same thing but splurged for the Mobil VTwin, specifically because it is a 20 year old bike and I wanted to protect what I could internally. I know that the oil will probably have nothing or little to do with anything but it is more a peace of mind thing for me. Besides....ScootR said it was the best stuff on the market.
DMACK, Feb 20 2006, 12:59 AMI opted for the non-aerospace oil that was only $5 a quart at the stealership. Do you guys think the totally synthetic oil is worthwhile at $9 a quart. I'm not doing any GP racing. It seemed like a lot for the $5 a quart variety.
Synth is great if you don't mind spending the extra for peace of mind, but you'll still get many, many happy miles out of an engine with regularly scheduled Dino oil changes too.
With the difference per quart, you might be able to buy something else nice for the bike, amortized over it's lifetime/number of oil changes. musik20.gif
For what it's worth, I think dino oil is good enough, but I still use Mobil 1 red cap (now gold cap) because the transmission shifts smoother with it.
This is my generic oil thread reply. I almost forgot about it. tongue.gif
Shifting much smoother with synthetic beer.gif
WOW! I read the other oil thread, and now I twice as informed, but three times more confused.
I really think that for my usage I could probably put Extra virgin olive oil in it and I would be OK. Just kidding...
I'll ride it around for 3000, then through some synth in it and see if there's a difference.
Beyond that I'll have to check with my local molecular petro-chemical engineer.
DMACK, Feb 20 2006, 12:59 AM
I opted for the non-aerospace oil that was only $5 a quart at the stealership. Do you guys think the totally synthetic oil is worthwhile at $9 a quart. I'm not doing any GP racing. It seemed like a lot for the $5 a quart variety.
If you go synthetic, don't get the $5 per quart variety. Get the $19 per 5 quart variety, which is $3.80 per quart! Mobil 1 red cap (now gold cap) goes for $18-$20 for a 5 quart jug at your local Wally World or other large volume store. smile.gif
tbzep, Feb 20 2006, 11:23 PMIf you go synthetic, don't get the $5 per quart variety. Get the $19 per 5 quart variety, which is $3.80 per quart! Mobil 1 red cap (now gold cap) goes for $18-$20 for a 5 quart jug at your local Wally World or other large volume store. smile.gif
holy shiite. zep is the "new" mr frugal!
767fixer, Feb 20 2006, 10:29 PMholy shiite. zep is the "new" mr frugal!
You ain't seen nuttin yet!
I use the K&N filter. I love the hex nut on the end-easy on and easy off, just like my old lady. Use synthetic if not ours Repsol or moyul. VERY good products as well.
scooter996, Feb 20 2006, 11:56 PMI use the K&N filter. I love the hex nut on the end-easy on and easy off, just like my old lady. Use synthetic if not ours Repsol or moyul. VERY good products as well.
K&N here to. cant beat that nut it the tight confines. dont even have to pull the left fairing off anymore.
Growler67, Feb 14 2006, 09:19 AMSpend the extra few cents at the dealership for a new crush washer for the drain plug, too.
save your money and anneal it. can do it several times before its use has ended
My input consists of:
Do not worry about the crush washers. If the $0.20/washer is too expensive, I think the hardware stores will have what we need for less dough.
Just get a handful, and put them in your tool box (ziplock bag), or wherever. Just get as many as you can for $4, and never worry for a long while, and always make it a point to change them w/t each oil change.
Or..Just re-use the old ones (I don't like that option).
Later, Ian
Lifesaver, Feb 21 2006, 12:18 AMMy input consists of:
Do not worry about the crush washers. If the $0.20/washer is too expensive, I think the hardware stores will have what we need for less dough.
Just get a handful, and put them in your tool box (ziplock bag), or wherever. Just get as many as you can for $4, and never worry for a long while, and always make it a point to change them w/t each oil change.
Or..Just re-use the old ones (I don't like that option).
Later, Ian
look how much copper we could save over 10 years!!!! probably 5 lbs!!!
Just saying "whats-up". 'thas all!