Custom Devil Dual Underseat Exhaust Project

Edit:
If you're the impatient sort and want to cut to the chase, click here:
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=256914



So today, I went out and bought a sheet of plain .125" aluminum, approximately 1 foot by 4 feet to use as material to fab a custom undertray for the dual Devil underseat exhaust project. Only cost me 25 bucks, cash, no tax! beer.gif

Also picked up a hundred 3/16" x 1/4" aluminum rivets (no, I don't think I'll need all of them), as I plan to rivet the aluminum sheet to the subframe once it's all been trial-fitted. Oh, and some ZipCut discs for my angle grinder.


I was originally thinking of doing it over the winter, but I have absolutely zero patience for waiting for mods. Especially since I'm looking at the pipes every day in the garage. Once everything is fitted up and tested over the remainder of the summer, I'll remove the subframe and have everything powdercoated black during winter. For the next few months, the aluminum will remain unfinished.


I must have looked like quite the ricer heading down the road with this huge aluminum wing attached to the Ventura Luggage rack! biggrin.gif

Downforce, gotta have more downforce! goofy.gif

Unless you're planning on using the aluminum for structural integrity, .125" is waaay overkill for what you're doing. .040" T6 would be much easier to work with, and still strong enough to keep its shape under pressure and hold your battery and other electronics.

SEBSPEED, May 29 2006, 07:19 PMUnless you're planning on using the aluminum for structural integrity, .125" is waaay overkill for what you're doing. .040" T6 would be much easier to work with, and still strong enough to keep its shape under pressure and hold your battery and other electronics.

You're probably right, although I hefted some 1/16" sheet they had there and it seemed really wimpy. But yes, flexing a bulk sheet sitting loose on it's own isn't the same as it being cut and secured into place.

I may wind up making some tabs from the leftover Al sheet and welding them on (or using some Al angle stock), that drop down underneath the custom undertray, to hang the mufflers from. Then the thickness will make sense because it's supporting the weight of the two Devil cans.

Also, I didn't want really thin material buzzing and making noise with engine or road vibrations, but I guess that's also a product of how well it's secured.

veefer800canuck, May 29 2006, 08:24 PMYou're probably right, although I hefted some 1/16" sheet they had there and it seemed really wimpy. But yes, flexing a bulk sheet sitting loose on it's own isn't the same as it being cut and secured into place.

I may wind up making some tabs from the leftover Al sheet and welding them on, that drop down underneath the custom undertray, to hang the mufflers from. Then the thickness will make sense because it's supporting the weight of the two Devil cans.

Also, I didn't want really thin material buzzing and making noise with engine or road vibrations, but I guess that's also a product of how well it's secured.

Do you happen to know what grade it was hardened to? That will make a very big difference in its flexibility. For that matter, you could even use thin stainless and be ahead of the game in the weight and workability department. Do your self a favor, and at least look into it. Eigth inch material is much too thick for what you are doing.

SEBSPEED, May 29 2006, 07:29 PMDo you happen to know what grade it was hardened to? That will make a very big difference in its flexibility.

No idea but it's the same type of Al stock that they use to fabricate toolboxes for trucks and so on.
At least that's what the shop I bought it from does with it.

[image: user posted image]

Probably 5052 I'm guessing???

veefer800canuck, May 29 2006, 09:11 PMNo idea but it's the same type of Al stock that they use to fabricate toolboxes for trucks and so on.
At least that's what the shop I bought it from does with it.

Probably 5052 I'm guessing???

I am currently fabricating/assembling exhaust deflector assemblies for the Blackhawk/Seahawk helicopter at my job. It is primarily built from .040" 6061 T6 aluminum, and I can guarantee you that this grade of material would be perfect for what you are doing, provided that you don't have any plans of holding the rear end of the bike together with it. As far as filler panels, covers, and a battery tray go, it's ideal, because you can easily bend and hand-form it, and it's not so thin that it'd be hard to weld(I am also certified to TIG this stuff). You can rivet a strap of the 1/8th" stuff on to the inside of the tray, to provide more support for your exhaust mounting anchor points.

If you try to start with the 1/8th", you will run into headaches when trying to bend and form, because you will need to start calculating bend deductions, and it will just be harder to work in general. PM me your address, and I will send you a sample of the material I'm talking about.

What size/grade are street signs made from? Whatever it is, it worked beautifully for me goofy.gif

This is sort of my initial concept just from studying the underseat area and not actually trying to fit anything up yet.

Missing are the supports for the tailsection adjacent to the taillight and a license plate bracket.

May hang a plate bracket off the end of the cans using the body rivets for the endcaps.

Oh and that dark circle in the center of the crude drawing is the round crossmember that the seat base hooks under. It's visible in the pic in my first post above.

[image: user posted image]

The forward bit of aluminum plate pretty much has to go below the framerail because of the seat pan. It dips lower than the framerail.

The rearward part of the aluminum plate I want to sit on top of the framerail because of tire clearance issues. The more, the merrier.

I saw in these pics that Vince took:

[image: user posted image]

That the WOLF undertray sits below the bottom of the framerail and is affixed by simple L-brackets and bolts.

I'm thinking if I can go above the framerail, I get that much *bonus* clearance for the rear tire and hugger. I'm trying to avoid rubbing and would loathe to have to raise the rear subframe by lengthening the 2 lower mounting points. That would raise the seat, create more legroom (good) and place more weight on my hands and wrists (bad).
Reaching the ground isn't a problem, I can flatfoot the bike easily with max ride height as it is now.

Tools?
Compartment for pharkles?

The Phantom, May 29 2006, 10:15 PMWhat size/grade are street signs made from? Whatever it is, it worked beautifully for me  goofy.gif

So you're the cause of all those T-bone accidents!

What sign? I didn't see a sign?  unsure.gif

goofy.gif

enzed_viffer, May 29 2006, 10:25 PMTools?
Compartment for pharkles?

Might have room aft of the seat latch plate, in the space ahead of the taillight bulb sockets. Probably no room elsewhere.

Either that or I'll put the toolkit in my tankbag because I always bring a tankbag when I'm venturing out of town. In town, heck, everything is within a 1/2 hour walk even from one extreme end to the other. Only 9,000 people, so not a very big place.

Nice work! I love diagrams. I use it all the time for projects...

vfrmonkey, May 29 2006, 10:28 PMNice work! I love diagrams. I use it all the time for projects...

....there's only so much [.] a man can do with Microsoft Paint. rolleyes.gif


And the diagrammed routing of the connector pipe sucks, pay no attention to that. wink.gif

veefer800canuck, May 30 2006, 04:34 AM....there's only so much [.] a man can do with Microsoft Paint.    rolleyes.gif
And the diagrammed routing of the connector pipe sucks, pay no attention to that.  wink.gif

I originally had put "Microsoft Paint" instead of "diagrams", but I didn't want to sound brash. I have a bootleg Adobe paint (and premier) that I have no idea how to use...

What size/grade are street signs made from? Whatever it is, it worked beautifully for me  goofy.gif  

So you're the cause of all those T-bone accidents!

Errr, not all street signs are created equal! laugh.gif


[image: user posted image]
Police targeting.jpg

Rob you may try cutting the devils too to shorten them up a bit and give you a little more room to work, you wont need them full length with two of them. Sort of like Kevin did with his.

the rear end cap of mine nearly touched the crossmember that the seat hooks to; just enough room for the fiberglass. Don't try to make the top of the undertail/heatsheild flat, try bending it slightly to tuck the cans up higher...

[image: user posted image]

Here's with the heat sheild, from a 600RR & shortened three inches on the bandsaw

[image: user posted image]

The sideways end cap...

[image: user posted image]

vfrmonkey, May 30 2006, 07:25 AMthe rear end cap of mine nearly touched the crossmember that the seat hooks to; just enough room for the fiberglass. Don't try to make the top of the undertail/heatsheild flat, try bending it slightly to tuck the cans up higher...

Is your seat a Sargent or Corbin?

I'm not sure how high I can bring it and still have room for the seat pan of my Sargent.

I guess if I remove the rear plastic plus the stock undertray and reinstall the seat I'll have an idea. I was going to do that anyhow before I cut anything.

Also, the Devil cans are only 3.25" diameter, your single oval can is probably more like 4", no?

Lastly, can you measure the clearance you have 'twixt the tire and the muffler for me? Pretty please? 491.gif

And how the heck do you get your seat latched? Or do you just never put it on nor carry a passenger?
(Edit: nevermind, I see you have no passenger pegs)

[image: user posted image]

I was thinking about mounting my ECU outboard of the frame rails aft of the R/R.

HispanicSlammer, May 30 2006, 04:41 AMRob you may try cutting the devils too to shorten them up a bit and give you a little more room to work, you wont need them full length with two of them.  Sort of like Kevin did with his.

Thanks Miguel. Actually the USA distributor for DEVIL suggested that could be done.

I'll see what they look like when they're mocked in place, but the overall length of them is comparable to the WOLF cans.

Mine are about 16 inches overall including the outlet spigots. The Wolfies are 13" for the canister body, but the outlet spigots add another 4" or so to that. So mine should be about 3/4" shorter overall.

[image: user posted image]

veefer800canuck, May 30 2006, 02:58 PMIs your seat a Sargent or Corbin?

I'm not sure how high I can bring it and still have room for the seat pan of my Sargent.

I guess if I remove the rear plastic plus the stock undertray and reinstall the seat I'll have an idea. I was going to do that anyhow before I cut anything.

Also, the Devil cans are only 3.25" diameter, your single oval can is probably more like 4", no?

Lastly, can you measure the clearance you have 'twixt the tire and the muffler for me? Pretty please?  491.gif

And how the heck do you get your seat latched? Or do you just never put it on nor carry a passenger?
(Edit: nevermind, I see you have no passenger pegs)

[image: user posted image]

I was thinking about mounting my ECU outboard of the frame rails aft of the R/R.

Sargent seat, and I had already decided on no passenger back in these days; one ride and my wife would say "Absolutely not!"...


[image: user posted image]
Shiney Viffer, first round of mods Round 1: Heli Bars, PCII, ZG Touring shield, TBR Hi-Mount Polished, 15T front sprocket, Factory Pro shift kit, Sargent seat, passenger pegs removed, fenderectomy, Race Tech forks, EBC pads


I think I just built the mold from the beer cans with the muffler zip tied in place, then adjusted the mold from underneath to fit the seat pan.

The can is a TBR C2

[image: user posted image]

There is 4" between the tire and lowest part of the can, where the cast inlet rivits to the can.

The computer would fit outside the subframe, but sold the back half of my Sargent seat so I had the extra room anyways. I would just be worried about moisture exposure and heat from the RR

Well, in the interest of obtaining maximum wheel clearance, I've decided to ditch the DEVIL double-can clamp as it holds the cans too close together. Moving the cans further apart will provide more clearance at full shock compression. Also, the Devil double clamp didn't have enough depth at the bolting flanges to run through a hanger bracket of any substance. (see pic in first post)

I'm going with some heavy-duty stainless steel T-bolt band clamps, the kind they use to hold Turbo inlet hose on and so forth. Picked up 4 of them, but I'll probably wind up using only 2, I think. I can always return the other 2 if I don't use them.

Like so:


[image: user posted image]

I'll line the insides of the clamps with a thin strip of rubber to protect the CF cans and figure out a way to attach the clamp to brackets under the seat. Probably run the shank of the t-bolt through a drop bracket off the undertray between the T-bolt spring and the nylock nut. It'll all be hidden anyhow, only thing one will ever see is the bottom of the band under the can.

Carbon cans run cool but rubber on outside may allow it to get hot because the heat can't escape from the surface. Use silicon rubber & it will easily stand the temperature if things do get hot. (My daughter recently got silicon rubber baking 'tins'; something new here but probably old news in your part of the world).

Well, I FINALLY rolleyes.gif booked out to the garage and started ripping and tearing the bike down for the exhaust project.

First thing on the menu of course was to remove all the tail plastic plus the stock undertray and battery box:

[image: IPB Image]

This left me with a jumble of wires and such to deal with:
[image: IPB Image]

[image: IPB Image]

Later, later. Let's start making stuff!


Next thing I did was to reinstall the tailsection plastic and hang the mufflers to get an idea of how everything would sit:
[image: IPB Image]

[image: IPB Image]

Triple exhaust anyone?
[image: IPB Image]

Width is good, about the same side-to-side as the later, smaller Dia. WOLF cans:
[image: IPB Image]

They don't stick out much more than the Micron does, I'll wait to see how they sound before I decide to shorten them (or not):
[image: IPB Image]

Yeah, I know, they need to be shifted to the right a bit. A man can only do so much with ZipTies:
[image: IPB Image]

I decided to make the undertray in two pieces, one upper and one lower. The upper one sits aft of the round crossmember and mounts atop the subframe rails like so:

[image: IPB Image]

The notches on the sides are for the passenger seat, so the appropriate bits sit flush with the subframe rails when the seat is installed. The notches toward the bottom of the pic are for the riders seat, so the two hooks can still hook underneath the round crossmember.

Here, the upper portion of the undertray has been drilled and riveted into place, fixing it to the subframe:

[image: IPB Image]

I felt if I mounted it atop the framerails in this manner, it would leave me maximum clearance for the cans, moreso than the WOLF undertray pics I've seen to date. I plan to attach some aluminum angle to the underside of the upper part of the tray to enable me to hang the cans from with some band clamps. This is where using 1/8" Al sheet will begin to make sense as it will be a stressed member so to speak, holding the weight of the dual cans.



Now to do something about the forward portion. It needs to run underneath the subframe rails to provide clearance for the rider's seat pan. The plastic seat pan dips below the upper rails and would not clear if the forward tray were mounted up top. Here is the vacancy that needs to be filled. There's an old kid's snowsuit protecting my CF hugger so it doesn't get marred while I'm messing about:

[image: IPB Image]

This is the simple piece I wound up with, 1 bend and cut narrower at the leading edge to clear the lower subframe rails. it's clamped in place as part of the fitup and in preparation for drilling and riveting:

[image: IPB Image]

It will be riveted to the subframe and to the remains of the stock battery box which has been trimmed and rotated forward to allow more clearance for the Y-pipe that will connect the two mufflers.
[image: IPB Image]

[image: IPB Image]

I'll have to make a small vertical filler piece to close the gap and have that welded in place to join the two levels of the undertray. Don't want to invite water and road grime through that huge opening, but the Hugger and the dual cans, they should block at least some spray.


I'm planning on removing the whole works this winter and having it powdercoated. For now, it'll stay as raw aluminum. cool.gif

Nice work, Rob!!

The Phantom, Jun 8 2006, 04:01 AMNice work, Rob!!

Thanks, it's not as complicated as your solution, and hence not as elegant either.

But once it's powdercoated, it'll look great.

I'm thinking of boxing in the sides with some thinner Al material just to keep road spray off the wiring. I plan on having all the wiring outboard of the subframe, but you can see in the last couple of pics that there's nothing to keep spooge from flying about.

Rob,

Looks good!!! That's going to look awesome when done!

Curious, have you checked the clearance you will have on your inlets? It appears that the cans will be pushed down a bit. Had you thought about doing something like this:

New Front piece:

Red: Cut outs
Green: Bend lines
Blue: Tab to overlap the back piece
Yellow: Bolt the front and back pieces together. (Make holes wherever your mounting points for the clamps will be!! Hold the clamps and the aluminum with the same bolt!)

[image: IPB Image]

Just throwing an idea at you...it would give you more clearance for your inlet pipes, and would close up that gap! Hope my quick drawing makes sense.

I guess it all depends on where the bends are on your inlet pipes wether this would give you a bit more clearance or not!

Kevin

Another great thread & one to watch :-)

The main issue with under seat exhaust is clearance is it not, but from all the build up's I read nobody seems to just measure total wheel travel & then any space above is free to stuff all you like in there. No hit & miss just work out total wheel travel height including hugger etc & you know the limits first up. Then you know how far you need to fab for clearance.
Not hard to do: most VFR'S have 120mm total rear wheel travel so you unload rear & take measurement. then remove shock links & move wheel the spec travel is has & make templet with card board where everything sits. Bingo you now can place parts in position & work out clearances needed with no wheel clearance problems. No point raising rear to gain clearace unless your bike setup that way already or you will have to sort bike all over again & there is no way back without removing your hard work.

I would like a system with 2 pipes joined to 2 cans that come up from front & rear banks & if sound crap or performance then simple cross pipe would fix that just like they do with inline 4's to help low down punch. So like the great low down muffler mod done here just use those 2 connections for link pipes.

Just idea's to throw in the mix.

veefer800canuck, May 29 2006, 09:21 PM
I saw in these pics that Vince took:

[image: user posted image]

That the WOLF undertray sits below the bottom of the framerail and is affixed by simple L-brackets and bolts.

Rob,

Going with the plate on top will definatly give you more support. The L brackets were not a wolf design. They were mods by me to support the fender better and give some strength to it as easy as I could without redisigning the wheel.

Yours will be so much nicer and cleaner. When you get done you might market it.

vince

Trace, I'll see your Fish and raise you a Shark tongue.gif

[image: IPB Image]

[image: IPB Image]

Clamped in place in preparation for riveting:
[image: IPB Image]

This sucker ain't goin' nowhere:
[image: IPB Image]

View from the outside, note 3/4" Al square tubing behind the steel plate that the R/R mounts to:
[image: IPB Image]

Template and the actual cutout:
[image: IPB Image]

Clamped in place for riveting:
[image: IPB Image]

It's actually starting to look like something now:
[image: IPB Image]

RH side view:

[image: user posted image]
100_2223.JPG


Various shots showing how the forward portion attaches to the battery box:


[image: user posted image]
100_2224.JPG

[image: user posted image]
100_2225.JPG

[image: user posted image]
100_2226.JPG

I'm no master fabricator (or electrician for that matter), but I would definitely put some sort of shielding between that aluminum plate and your battery terminals... a little moisture in there, a little pothole in the road, and ZAP... so long electrical system...

MegaMan, Jun 9 2006, 01:24 PMI'm no master fabricator (or electrician for that matter), but I would definitely put some sort of shielding between that aluminum plate and your battery terminals... a little moisture in there, a little pothole in the road, and ZAP... so long electrical system...

The battery is sitting inside the stock plastic battery box and the plastic extends up above the battery terminals, separating them from the aluminum.

The stock positive cable has a rubber boot that covers the cable, cable end and the + terminal itself.

veefer800canuck, Jun 8 2006, 03:05 AM
[image: user posted image]
100_2153.JPG

I think triple pipes are overkill ! tongue.gif Put a fourth one on and you have home made Lazers. rolleyes.gif

Looks good ! fing02.gif

SagaciousDupe, Jun 8 2006, 07:24 AMRob,

Looks good!!!� That's going to look awesome when done!

Curious, have you checked the clearance you will have on your inlets?� It appears that the cans will be pushed down a bit.�

<snip>

I guess it all depends on where the bends are on your inlet pipes wether this would give you a bit more clearance or not!

Thanks for the idea Kevin. I don't think it'll be a problem as the WOLF undertray sits at about the same level up front near the battery. Also, the WOLF system uses 2" pipe throughout, and my Y-pipe will be a single 2" leading into a pair of 1.5" pipes leading into the mufflers. (muffler inlet is 1.5")

Since the pipes are being custom fabricated for this application, we should be able to work them just about any which way and not have interference.

Rob your project is looking great beer.gif I love the sheet metal work, would be a shame to powder coat it really fing02.gif

dude, Jun 9 2006, 03:09 PMRob your project is looking great beer.gif I love the sheet metal work, would be a shame to powder coat it really  fing02.gif

Yeah, I don't mind the contrasting look, but I'm thinking about corrosion resistance over the long haul. Hence the powdercoating.

SagaciousDupe, Jun 8 2006, 07:24 AMRob,

Looks good!!!  That's going to look awesome when done!

Curious, have you checked the clearance you will have on your inlets?  It appears that the cans will be pushed down a bit.  Had you thought about doing something like this:

New Front piece: 

Red:  Cut outs
Green:  Bend lines
Blue:  Tab to overlap the back piece
Yellow:  Bolt the front and back pieces together.  (Make holes wherever your mounting points for the clamps will be!!  Hold the clamps and the aluminum with the same bolt!)


[image: user posted image]
Undertail.jpg


Just throwing an idea at you...it would give you more clearance for your inlet pipes, and would close up that gap!  Hope my quick drawing makes sense.

I guess it all depends on where the bends are on your inlet pipes wether this would give you a bit more clearance or not!

Kevin

Thanks Dupe, I know I was initially not "pro" to your suggestion, but as I've gotten more into it, I'm now considering something similar to what you have suggested.

It's doable the way I have it now, but I stand to gain an extra 3/4"-7/8" vertical clearance tapering down over about a 3 inch span for the Y-pipe if I mod what I have now, and that's a good thing even if it's just from a heat management standpoint.

Might even get me another 1/4" at the leading edge of the cans. fing02.gif

veefer800canuck, Jun 9 2006, 09:35 AM.... my Y-pipe will be a single 2" leading into a pair of 1.5" pipes leading into the mufflers. (muffler inlet is 1.5")

Since the pipes are being custom fabricated for this application, we should be able to work them just about any which way and not have interference.

Good stuff

You might want to also consider squashing (that's the technical term... I know, I looked it up..) the Y-pipe and the pipe coming up from the collector at the top of it's curve into more of an oval shape to gain some more clearence. As you said, though, you'll be using 1.5" for the Y-pipe, so you're already gaining some clearance there.

My biggest beef with my Wolf system is that the pipe coming up from the collector is right up against the frame and is a hair's breadth from the rear brakeline.

Your method of hanging the clamps for the cans from the tray setup is definitely an improvement over the Wolf setup.
One concern, however, is vibration. Even more so since you're riveting everything. There's probably some way to use a silicone grommet to isolate the bolt portion of the muffler clamp as it goes through the aluminum sheet.

[image: user posted image]
muffler mount.jpg

ggathagan, Jun 10 2006, 07:00 AMGood stuff

You might want to also consider squashing (that's the technical term... I know, I looked it up..) the Y-pipe and the pipe coming up from the collector at the top of it's curve into more of an oval shape to gain some more clearence. As you said, though, you'll be using 1.5" for the Y-pipe, so you're already gaining some clearance there.

My biggest beef with my Wolf system is that the pipe coming up from the collector is right up against the frame and is a hair's breadth from the rear brakeline.

Your method of hanging the clamps for the cans from the tray setup is definitely an improvement over the Wolf setup.
One concern, however, is vibration. Even more so since you're riveting everything. There's probably some way to use a silicone grommet to isolate the bolt portion of the muffler clamp as it goes through the aluminum sheet.

[image: user posted image]
muffler mount.jpg

I might rubber mount the angle brackets holding the cans where they attach to the undertray. I'm going to look around work for some suitable scrap material. The clamps holding the cans will also have a thin rubber strip on the inside made from bicycle inner tube secured to the clamp with contact cement.

ggathagan, Jun 10 2006, 08:00 AM
[image: user posted image]
muffler mount.jpg

Reminds me of the way the front of the gas tank is secured...

Did you give any thought to Riv-Nuts before you used the blind rivets?

SEBSPEED, Jun 10 2006, 07:39 PMDid you give any thought to Riv-Nuts before you used the blind rivets?

Riv-nuts? Sounds like a snack! Do they come in BBQ flavour? tongue.gif








(I just gOOgled them up, never heard of them before)

Well, it's done now, I'm not taking it apart. But I'll remember them for the future.

veefer800canuck, Jun 9 2006, 01:53 PM
[image: user posted image]
100_2222.JPG

Once you finalize your layout, you might consider welding the 'sharks' and the forward portion together, then securing the now single, solid piece with a few select Riv-Nuts.

Or use it as a mold for a thinner, lighter piece made of fiberglass or carbon fiber. Make a few, and make back the money you spent on supplies when you sell them.

How many beers has this project cost you so far?

SEBSPEED, Jun 11 2006, 07:53 AMOnce you finalize your layout, you might consider welding the 'sharks' and the forward portion together, then securing the now single, solid piece with a few select Riv-Nuts.�

Or use it as a mold for a thinner, lighter piece made of fiberglass or carbon fiber. Make a few, and make back the money you spent on supplies when you sell them.

idea3.gif I figured out how I could make the welding thing work.

The main wiring harness is currently "trapped" between the stock welded steel R/R mounting plate and the riveted LH "shark". Not pinched, there's lots of room for the wiring bundle itself with no restrictions, but the 2 HUGE plugs for the ECU are far too large to be able to draw them back through the gap should one ever want to completely remove the rear subframe from the bike, or (heaven forbid) remove and replace the wiring harness.

I figured if I grind off the stock steel R/R mounting plate and make an easily removeable one out of aluminum sheet, then the entire subframe could be removed without bothering the wiring harness nor disturbing the undertray simply by taking off the custom R/R mounting plate.

Then, I could take off the subframe, cart it away and have all the Al sheet parts welded together in situ. That way, none of the dimensions will change and I can have it powdercoated after the welding is complete.

It'll be more rigid, etc. And any tiny gaps in my fitup will disappear. I tried to get everything as close as possible, but there's a few contours where I've got a millimeter or so gap here and there.

I can only get so close with an L-square, a sharpie, a jigsaw, hand files and a bench grinder. I don't have a NASCAR fab shop at my disposal, just common hand tools and time, patience and perserverence.

As far as making more parts is concerned, I have zero interest in that. I really like modding my own stuff, but working on other people's stuff has zero appeal.

offtopic.gif With 3 kids, 2 mortgages and a minivan, I barely have time to take a decent dump in peace and quiet. I work shift work, 12 hour shifts, and my work schedule is 4 nights, 3 off, 3 days, 1 off, 3 nights, 3 off, 4 days, 7 off, start again. And that's without any overtime shifts, of which I usually work 1-2 a month. So constantly shifting around the clock, sleeping when I can, helping around the house, keeping the kids in check, maintaining my 26 year-old bungalow plus my 28 year old rental property, etc, etc, you can see why I don't need to start making stuff in the garage for other VFR riders. offtopic.gif

On the plus side, the money is good, so I can buy farkles for the bike. And I can post-ho at work as long as the plant is running well. user posted image

tbzep, Jun 11 2006, 09:00 AMHow many beers has this project cost you so far?

Zero. beer.gif

veefer800canuck, Jun 11 2006, 10:08 AMThe main wiring harness is currently "trapped" between the stock welded steel R/R mounting plate and the riveted LH "shark".

I am 99.9% certain your subframe(and the plate you speak of) are already made of aluminum. Just grind the old one off, and use it as a pattern to make an oversize piece. Also a perfect time to try out the riv-nuts.

veefer800canuck, Jun 11 2006, 10:08 AMThen, I could take off the subframe, cart it away and  have all the Al sheet parts welded together in situ. That way, none of the dimensions will change and I can have it powdercoated after the welding is complete.

You obviously wouldn't do this until everything has been mocked up, right? Pipes and all?

veefer800canuck, Jun 11 2006, 10:08 AMIt'll be more rigid, etc. And any tiny gaps in my fitup will disappear. I tried to get everything as close as possible, but there's a few contours where I've got a millimeter or so gap here and there.

But you will want to be present while it's being welded to remind the guy/gal that this is important to you, and that it should be welded in small sections(not one full pass), to avoid distortion from the heat(Yes this will occur, even though everything is riveted in place).

veefer800canuck, Jun 11 2006, 10:08 AMI can only get so close with an L-square, a sharpie, a jigsaw, hand files and a bench grinder. I don't have a NASCAR fab shop at my disposal, just common hand tools and time, patience and perserverence.

Another reason I suggested thin material, could've been cut with tin snips, and you could have spent the extra time on a decent dump! hehe

SEBSPEED, Jun 11 2006, 09:50 AMI am 99.9% certain your subframe(and the plate you speak of) are already made of aluminum. Just grind the old one off, and use it as a pattern to make an oversize piece. Also a perfect time to try out the riv-nuts.

Nope, stock subframe is steel. I'll look around and see if anyone here stocks the Riv-Nuts. Maybe Acklands-Grainger?

Here's a pic of the steel R/R mounting plate that needs to be modded to allow removal of the harness/subframe:

[image: user posted image]

You obviously wouldn't do this until everything has been mocked up, right? Pipes and all?

Absolutely.

But you will want to be present while it's being welded to remind the guy/gal that this is important to you, and that it should be welded in small sections(not one full pass), to avoid distortion from the heat (Yes this will occur, even though everything is riveted in place).

Yeah, I was aware of that. Aluminum expands what, like 4 times more than steel when heated? The guys that would be welding it for me do massive aluminum fabrication all the time, day in, day out, toolboxes, trailers, winch tractor beds, control panels, that sort of stuff. I'm assuming they would tack it in several locations first off, then weld small sections at a time, in different areas. I will certainly quiz them up about the expansion and make sure they deal with it properly. Thanks for the heads-up though.

Another reason I suggested thin material, could've been cut with tin snips, and you could have spent the extra time on a decent dump! hehe

You may be right there, I guess I'm taking the "battleship" approach.

veefer800canuck, Jun 11 2006, 11:03 AMNope, stock subframe is steel. I'll look around and see if anyone here stocks the Riv-Nuts. Maybe Acklands-Grainger?

Most likely, yes. A well-stocked hardware store may have them too.

veefer800canuck, Jun 11 2006, 11:03 AMHere's a pic of the steel R/R mounting plate that needs to be modded to allow removal of the harness/subframe:

[image: user posted image]

I knew what piece you meant; it looks like something of a uppercase 'H' shape would do the trick.

I am surprised that your subframe is steel, I would think that'd be rather heavy. My CBR subframe looks just like that, but it's aluminum. Let me know if you get any sparks when you grind the R/R plate off, would ya?

veefer800canuck, Jun 11 2006, 10:03 AMNope, stock subframe is steel. I'll look around and see if anyone here stocks the Riv-Nuts. Maybe Acklands-Grainger?

Mc-Master Carr has them. You have to have a tool to insert them though. How about the rubber well nuts that the fairings use??? Vibration isolation and stout.

The subframe is steel, I stuck a magnet to it.

Rob, looking great.

I went another few rounds with the bike today. In the end, the bike won.

More about that later.

First order of business was raising the front portion of the undertray as Sagacious Dupe recommended. Thanks for the suggestion.

Next, I set about fabricating supports for the taillight. I had read reports of the tailsections vibrating and cracking, so I made this contraption using the stock rubber grommets from the plastic undertray:


[image: user posted image]
100_2277.JPG


I finalized the mounting brackets and got one can clamped in place:


[image: user posted image]
100_2273.JPG

[image: user posted image]
100_2274.JPG


The problem arose when I installed the second can. The rear portion is spaced well, but the fronts are too close together.


[image: user posted image]
100_2280.JPG


I'll have to remove them and space the leading clamps apart, possibly with some washers between the inner part of the T-bolt clamp and the drop mount.

Elevation and symmetry look good, just have to get the leading edges of the cans spaced apart 1/4-3/8" or so.


[image: user posted image]
100_2278.JPG



I'm tired, bike wins tonight. schla15.gif

veefer800canuck, Jun 11 2006, 10:08 AM With 3 kids, 2 mortgages and a minivan, I barely have time to take a decent dump in peace and quiet. I work shift work, 12 hour shifts, and my work schedule is 4 nights, 3 off, 3 days, 1 off, 3 nights, 3 off, 4 days, 7 off, start again. And that's without any overtime shifts, of which I usually work 1-2 a month. So constantly shifting around the clock, sleeping when I can, helping around the house, keeping the kids in check, maintaining my 26 year-old bungalow plus my 28 year old rental property, etc, etc, you can see why I don't need to start making stuff in the garage for other VFR riders. user posted image

What a lame excuse for turning your back on the rest of us. goofy.gif fing02.gif

Yeah, I'm kidding. I think it's great that your making the time to document this for us.

Best,

Dan

I got in touch with the guy who's going to be doing the custom connector pipe for me, and I'm taking the Viffer in on the 26th.

Can't wait to hear the V-4 roar from 2 mufflers at once! musik20.gif


Or as my wife so eloquently put it: "You paid 350 bucks for new mufflers so your bike could fart out the back instead of the side?" huh.gif

veefer800canuck, Jun 13 2006, 05:58 PMCan't wait to hear the V-4 roar from 2 mufflers at once!  musik20.gif
Or as my wife so eloquently put it: "You paid 350 bucks for new mufflers so your bike could fart out the back instead of the side?"  huh.gif

Tell her that their are some out there that spent 4 times that amount and still had to modify things.

blink.gif

vince

don't ask how I know

veefer800canuck, Jun 14 2006, 10:58 AMCan't wait to hear the V-4 roar from 2 mufflers at once!  musik20.gif
Or as my wife so eloquently put it: "You paid 350 bucks for new mufflers so your bike could fart out the back instead of the side?"  huh.gif

They have a way of reducing our pride and joy to just being a noisy time-wasting collection of bits and pieces laugh.gif

The Phantom, Jun 13 2006, 07:23 PMThey have a way of reducing our pride and joy to just being a noisy time-wasting collection of bits and pieces� laugh.gif

Yeah. Hit below the belt they do! ohmy.gif



On another tack, I measured the Devil muffler inlets yesterday and they aren't 1.5" like I thought they were (just from looking). They are actually 42mm.

Luckily, the exhaust guy has at his disposal 1-5/8" tubing, which is conveniently 41.275mm O.D. Close enough to check the fit and expand ever so slightly if needed. But it might be OK as-is with a little hi-temp silicone to help with the (tiny) gap (0.36mm or 0.22/16th inch all the way around). We'll see.

So I'll actually have more cross-sectional area at the exhaust inlets than previously thought. 1.29 times more to be exact (twin 1.625" inlets Vs single 2" inlet, subtracting 1mm wall thickness in each case).

Good stuff! Now we just have to figure out how to get it to Deal's Gap...