1) Okay, on my ride to work today I noticed when I hit my turn signal the tach went to zero but came right back up after letting off. When I got off the interstate sitting at the light, my speedo and tach stopped working, even after I took back off, nothing.
2) It's also been underheating which I think is the thermostat. But haven't had time to look at it, for example on way to work this morning, 55 F it was running 145 ish.
3) Third, my stinking lights don't work half the time. If I change from bright to low beam then back to bright, the brights won't work. So I think I just need to clean the switch. Again, need time.
4) Lastly, the other day my dagum clock reset when I started it, along with the trip odometer, no clue as to this problem.
So my question, are these all just small problems, or is this the culmination of one BIG problem?
Please someone help, I feel like one of those people who are just wanting something bad to happen. unsure.gif
not sure about the underheating unless your gauge is just wrong because of the electrical problem, but the electrical stuff sounds like its probably of one mediocre problem. Check the grounding in the front of the bike. That can certainly cause trouble on these bikes.
I expect that there may be multiple problems. Heating problems are most often caused by thermostat not functioning as it is supposed to; stuck more open than it should, or more closed. In your case, sounds like it is open more than it should be. As far as the other problem go, I expect that it may be symptomatic of a low battery or charging system problems. I would start with the battery and get it load tested and if it reads low, then charge it and read again. If it now holds a charge well, then it is likely the regulator/rectifier but I would not rule out the stator delivering power to the R/R either.
No, this is a real problem. Start by checking your battery voltage, charging voltage, and ground connections. Search in the How To or maintenance forums for 'electrical' there is a post by HS showing how to do most of these this. If you don't have a service manual, get one. I think there is one you can download in PDF around here somewhere. You need to take care of this, if you don't it is going to leave you stranded.
This doesn't sound too good I was hoping just a simple fuse or something? Guess I can rule that out?
Nother problem, on break just now I went out to see if the tailight was working, as I did some previous research, went to start it and nothing. Took the battery off and checked the voltage, read 10 volts, so put it on trickle charge, could the battery be the problem, and if so does this mean the RR is going out?
Without doing a test on the bike rinning and testing/measuring the voltage that the RR is delivering, it is hard to say. However, if I were a betting man, it is most often the R/R but nearly just as often, a bad R/R can take a battery with it too. My R/R headed south but it started supplying too much voltage and this started frying the battery and actually boiling it dry. Yours may be lucky if it charges up and actually holds the charge. However, I would get the multi-meter out and measure what the R/R is sending to it.. It should be somewhere between 13.5 & 15.0. Lots of opinions on the exact numbers, but that is the loose range.
BOBINOTTAWA, Sep 7 2006, 10:53 AM Without doing a test on the bike rinning and testing/measuring the voltage that the RR is delivering, it is hard to say. However, if I were a betting man, it is most often the R/R but nearly just as often, a bad R/R can take a battery with it too. My R/R headed south but it started supplying too much voltage and this started frying the battery and actually boiling it dry. Yours may be lucky if it charges up and actually holds the charge. However, I would get the multi-meter out and measure what the R/R is sending to it.. It should be somewhere between 13.5 & 15.0. Lots of opinions on the exact numbers, but that is the loose range.
Hope this helps.
That helps. I just got it off the charger, said it was good. Put it on the bike, checked it off, 13 volts. Checked it at idle, and it was 13.5 volts. Revved it to 5000 rpm, and got 14.5 volts. Okay, so I did the test, but what exactly do these numbers tell me? Need new battery, RR gone south, or the whole charging system? Thanks.
Thos numbers generally indicate pretty good health, at least operating without the bike under traffic or high temperature. My R/R only showed as being bad when the bike was hot, it got hotter, put out more juice and fried my battery. I would carry a multi-meter and check things out for a few rides and see if the battery drains over time etc. I would also get the battery checked out at a parts store. Many of them will do a load test for free.
Ride the bike and check the RR output after use when it is hot to see if the problem is detectable then. Practice doing a bump start too. I would also check the stator, just to rule it out too.
If you haven't made any electrical mods, then I would also check the amount of current when the bike is off. It should only be consuming a miliamp or 2 that drives the clock. If it is more than that, you may have a more obscure electrical drain problem that may need attacking fuse-by-fuse
BOBINOTTAWA, Sep 7 2006, 01:49 PM Thos numbers generally indicate pretty good health, at least operating without the bike under traffic or high temperature. My R/R only showed as being bad when the bike was hot, it got hotter, put out more juice and fried my battery. I would carry a multi-meter and check things out for a few rides and see if the battery drains over time etc. I would also get the battery checked out at a parts store. Many of them will do a load test for free.
Ride the bike and check the RR output after use when it is hot to see if the problem is detectable then. Practice doing a bump start too. I would also check the stator, just to rule it out too.
If you haven't made any electrical mods, then I would also check the amount of current when the bike is off. It should only be consuming a miliamp or 2 that drives the clock. If it is more than that, you may have a more obscure electrical drain problem that may need attacking fuse-by-fuse
Well, checking after hot could be a problem, as my bike has a problem getting hot, thanks to the t-stat. I'm gonna take the battery to have it tested for sure.
Now, a bump start, is that something like a jump start, except you roll down a hill and pop it into gear, simeltaneously dropping the clutch?
How do you check to see how many miliapms the bike is using? Test the battery and see how fast the voltage drops?
As far as testring goes when you say test the RR output, how do you measure that, by checking how much it puts out at the battery or do you have to remove fairings?
Lastly, I do have some automotive skill, so all this rambling is just because I don't know a lot about working on the bike. But my last question is if my bike is giving the battery too much juice, and the battery fries, is there any chance of it exploding or leaking acid? Thanks
99vfrinterceptor, Sep 7 2006, 01:41 PM Well, checking after hot could be a problem, as my bike has a problem getting hot, thanks to the t-stat. I'm gonna take the battery to have it tested for sure.
I would fix the elec. glitches first, then see if you still Really have a heating problem and it wasn't just another elec. glitch in the gauge caused by other issues! fing02.gif
baileyrock, Sep 7 2006, 03:40 PM I would fix the elec. glitches first, then see if you still Really have a heating problem and it wasn't just another elec. glitch in the gauge caused by other issues! fing02.gif
My problem is that I'm not exactly sure were to start at with the electrical problems. Suggestion?
Okay, well the battery died again, such bad timing setting in flat school parking lot. Guess this weekend I'm gonna use slammers guide on checking all the voltages and r/r and all that good stuff. Got one question right now, need help quick;
How in the he!! do you bump start this thing on flat ground. It's cold so I tried in 4th gear, but it wouldn't turn it over. Do I need to choke it since it ain't been run in about 4 hours? Thanks
BIG PROBLEM! Just finally got it started. Was riding around the parking lot to warm up, and it starts to die, luckily going fast enough to restart it, but it continues to cut out and I'd restart it. What does this mean, I would search, but I'm in the middle of class. Please help, my closest ride home is about an hour away and I don't want to have to call em.
99vfrinterceptor, Sep 8 2006, 04:57 PM BIG PROBLEM! Just finally got it started. Was riding around the parking lot to warm up, and it starts to die, luckily going fast enough to restart it, but it continues to cut out and I'd restart it. What does this mean, I would search, but I'm in the middle of class. Please help, my closest ride home is about an hour away and I don't want to have to call em.
Call them, or a cab. If your battery is totally dead (it is) you are not going to make it far. You are probably going to need a new battery, and the most likely cause is your R/R. Read the electrical troubleshooting post by HispanicSlammer to verify.
Bro, I am waiting for my R/R to show up FedEx. I got it from Service Honda, less than $160 after regular shipping 7- 10 bus. days. They will step up shipping for extra. I couldn't find one in stock nor near that price with any dealers here in town nor Phoenix. Sounds like exact symptoms I had. Good Luck from LV. fing02.gif
The problem is your reading temerature from a gauge that is inaccurate, so how do you know that its not reaching temp? Now you say the bike simply cuts out? However when it the bike is sitting its holding charge, showing a good charging voltage at idle and max at 5k, so I doubt that the battery is the problem.
I think you have a loose harness that becom disconnected or is shorting out - simple as that! It explains everything your experienceing in your post. You need to get all the plastics off and check every connector, clean them up check for chafing on the harness and then go along and check that the connectors are tight. You should also read the how to on reading error codes, I bet there is one stored in there! I am thinking that the bike is not grounding out properly! If you had your bike stored during the winter for any lenght of time perhaps some darned varmit was chewing away at the wires! Its been known to happen.
In my opionion its not a charging problem but a wireing short/disconnection. I mean You already ruled out a charging problem when you tested the voltage static and running!
Start with the fuses obviously, then check the main fuse, then the starter relay fuse. Then trace the wire harness looking for chafing, cleaning up the connectors as you go. Sounds like a big PITA for sure but thats what you have to do.
vegasmoxie, Sep 12 2006, 04:31 AM Bro, I am waiting for my R/R to show up FedEx. I got it from Service Honda, less than $160 after regular shipping 7- 10 bus. days. They will step up shipping for extra. I couldn't find one in stock nor near that price with any dealers here in town nor Phoenix. Sounds like exact symptoms I had. Good Luck from LV. fing02.gif
Did you get the new and improved r/r or the old one?
HispanicSlammer, Sep 12 2006, 05:09 AM The problem is your reading temerature from a gauge that is inaccurate, so how do you know that its not reaching temp? Now you say the bike simply cuts out? However when it the bike is sitting its holding charge, showing a good charging voltage at idle and max at 5k, so I doubt that the battery is the problem.
I think you have a loose harness that becom disconnected or is shorting out - simple as that! It explains everything your experienceing in your post. You need to get all the plastics off and check every connector, clean them up check for chafing on the harness and then go along and check that the connectors are tight. You should also read the how to on reading error codes, I bet there is one stored in there! I am thinking that the bike is not grounding out properly! If you had your bike stored during the winter for any lenght of time perhaps some darned varmit was chewing away at the wires! Its been known to happen.
In my opionion its not a charging problem but a wireing short/disconnection. I mean You already ruled out a charging problem when you tested the voltage static and running!
Start with the fuses obviously, then check the main fuse, then the starter relay fuse. Then trace the wire harness looking for chafing, cleaning up the connectors as you go. Sounds like a big PITA for sure but thats what you have to do.
What me and my dad decided was to put in the battery from his CBR to see if the bike will run with it. I will start this process tomorrow morning. If it starts and continues to cut out with me, this will be my process. I will also chech the electrical system again with the good battery, and go from there. Thnaks to all for the help.
This morning I put in the good battery from my dads cbr, he don't need to ride without me anyway, and the bike fired up. SO I turned it back off, and checked the battery voltage. It was 12.3. Then I cranked it back up and let it warn up to about 160 degrees, there I started to test voltage, first at idle. This revealed 13 volts, then I gradually revved to 5500 rpms. It got squirley, voltage on battery dropped to 11.75, and that is where it stayed after shutting her down. Talked to my dad and after the research he and I have done, we decided it was in fact the r/r. Any one else second this diagnosis?
Also, have searched on which part to buy, am thinking of going with the Ricks. Has anyone had these units go bad, if so how long, and I would greatly appreciate it if anyone could recommend the cheapest place to find this one or whatever other r/r they used that lasted a while.
99vfrinterceptor, Sep 7 2006, 06:41 PM Well, checking after hot could be a problem, as my bike has a problem getting hot, thanks to the t-stat. I'm gonna take the battery to have it tested for sure.
Checking the RR when it's hot does not really mean the engine getting hot, It's the RR itself that overheats and starts going bonkers.
I have been having all these same problems as well.
Started about 3 weeks ago. I stopped at the corner on a Sunday morning ride with a group. Wouldn't start back up. Had to bump start. (second gear works best. Just hold in the clutch, push as fast as possible( 5-10 mph) and release clutch.) Rode 30 miles home with no problem. Once I got home, bike started fine. I replaced the battery anyway, and it ran everyday for like two weeks. Last week, on a trip to New Mexico, my bro, my dad and I were riding through Taos. I pulled over to discuss the next turn. And it didn't start! We bump started it, and it would die if I let it get to idle speed. As we made the about 30-40 mile trip in the rain back to Tres Ritos, whenever I put on my blinker, or put on my brake, the tacho/speedo would drop to zero, and quickly go back. (Very twitchy) Also, if I let it get to idle, and pull the clutch, it would die. (I'm glad I had brought the dirt bike with me on that trip!) So back in Dallas, I hooked it up to a trickle charger, and within minutes, it was hesitantly starting.
Do you guys think I need a new r/r? I too, am gonna check all the stupid connections, and make sure they're in good condition.
BTW: I have the Clymer manual, and going through the troubleshooting is like performing brain surgery. pissed.gif I'm retarded. Thanks for the help.
I am betting that your r/r is gone. I would also get the battery fully charged and then get it load tested, not just checked for enough volts. If possible, check your rotar too. You have claimed not to be an electrical whiz, but it is pretty simple really. Simple multi-meter and a bit of practice would help a lot, even if you just start practising on the bike after you get it fixed.
99vfrinterceptor, Sep 13 2006, 10:43 AM This morning I put in the good battery from my dads cbr, he don't need to ride without me anyway, and the bike fired up. SO I turned it back off, and checked the battery voltage. It was 12.3. Then I cranked it back up and let it warn up to about 160 degrees, there I started to test voltage, first at idle. This revealed 13 volts, then I gradually revved to 5500 rpms. It got squirley, voltage on battery dropped to 11.75, and that is where it stayed after shutting her down. Talked to my dad and after the research he and I have done, we decided it was in fact the r/r. Any one else second this diagnosis?
Also, have searched on which part to buy, am thinking of going with the Ricks. Has anyone had these units go bad, if so how long, and I would greatly appreciate it if anyone could recommend the cheapest place to find this one or whatever other r/r they used that lasted a while.
Thanks
Bump.
New test results, me and dad workied on it last night. 12.4 volts off, crunk it was 13.2 volts, 5500 rpms, it was sloewly draining, all the way down to 12 volts, would have went further but we turned it off. Also, disconnected the positive terminal while running, and the bike shut down. So we thanks r/r, becuase the bike is wired in series, it should run without the battery if r/r was good. Thoughts
99vfrinterceptor, Sep 14 2006, 02:12 PM Also, disconnected the positive terminal while running, and the bike shut down. So we thanks r/r, becuase the bike is wired in series, it should run without the battery if r/r was good. Thoughts
Only if you keep the revs >2K. Below that, the stator doesn't generate enough power to keep the engine running.
BOBINOTTAWA, Sep 13 2006, 06:25 PM I am betting that your r/r is gone. I would also get the battery fully charged and then get it load tested, not just checked for enough volts. If possible, check your rotar too. You have claimed not to be an electrical whiz, but it is pretty simple really. Simple multi-meter and a bit of practice would help a lot, even if you just start practising on the bike after you get it fixed.
What/where is the rotar? Haven't heard that one yet... I can get the battery "load tested" for free at an auto parts place, right? I will definately check that, because it's a cheap Wal-Mart battery. So would you say it's safe to spend 200 smackeroonies on a new r/r before I check it? I did buy a multi-meter, but reading the Clymer manual just left me scratching my head (balls).
Thanks!
End of thread · 30 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 18 Oct 2006