So I got a RK GB530SO- gold 110 link chain and a rear sprocket from that motoracingspecialties.com guy before the database meltdown. He had chain and sprocket deals but the forum never popped back up. I was going to get the OEM 6th gen front sprocket (for the damper) and drop a tooth.
2 questions-
Will the RK chain work with the OEM front sprocket?
Will I still need just 2 links taken off? My new chain is 110 and stock is 108.
Thanks
da9b20, Dec 21 2006, 10:50 AMSo I got a RK GB530SO- gold 110 link chain and a rear sprocket from that motoracingspecialties.com guy before the database meltdown. He had chain and sprocket deals but the forum never popped back up. I was going to get the OEM 6th gen front sprocket (for the damper) and drop a tooth.
2 questions-
Will the RK chain work with the OEM front sprocket?
Will I still need just 2 links taken off? My new chain is 110 and stock is 108.
Thanks
If it has peanut shaped side plates it will work with the rubber front sprocket.
Are you going to be staking the chain yourself? If so, this is something that will work itself out as you do it.
Once you get the sprokets mounted and the new chain run around, loosen the pinch bolt for the rear axle, and roll it all the way forward. According to the manual, you always check chain tension with the bike on the sidestand. If you can't get the chain tight enough with 110 links, then it's time to remove 2 links.
jstanwood, Dec 21 2006, 10:06 AMAre you going to be staking the chain yourself? If so, this is something that will work itself out as you do it.
Once you get the sprokets mounted and the new chain run around, loosen the pinch bolt for the rear axle, and roll it all the way forward. According to the manual, you always check chain tension with the bike on the sidestand. If you can't get the chain tight enough with 110 links, then it's time to remove 2 links.
FYI: The 5th Gen service manual specifies setting chain slack on the
center stand.
vfrjim2002, Dec 21 2006, 11:27 AMjstanwood, Dec 21 2006, 10:06 AMAre you going to be staking the chain yourself? If so, this is something that will work itself out as you do it.
Once you get the sprokets mounted and the new chain run around, loosen the pinch bolt for the rear axle, and roll it all the way forward. According to the manual, you always check chain tension with the bike on the sidestand. If you can't get the chain tight enough with 110 links, then it's time to remove 2 links.
FYI: The 5th Gen service manual specifies setting chain slack on the center stand.
Thank you for the correction. I don't have one of
those service manuals. I have a 4th gen one, though. biggrin.gif
I should have said,
my manual, not
the manual. Sorry for being so absolute!
I would rather be able to measure on the center stand. It's a whole lot easier. I get lots of practice almost dropping the bike, though.
I think the side plates are peanut shaped. I will check when I get home.
I wanted to put on the new chain and sprocket myself. I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but this is the first bike I have ever worked on. I have the PDF manual to help me, along with any how to I find on this site. I am glad I found this out before I took it to the shop and had 2 links removed for no reason. I am planning on doing the work in a few months. My chain and sprocket are not putting off any red dust yet and I don�t know the actual mileage on the chain but my bike has 19k on it so I know the time is coming.
jstanwood, Dec 21 2006, 10:43 AMvfrjim2002, Dec 21 2006, 11:27 AMjstanwood, Dec 21 2006, 10:06 AMAre you going to be staking the chain yourself? If so, this is something that will work itself out as you do it.
Once you get the sprokets mounted and the new chain run around, loosen the pinch bolt for the rear axle, and roll it all the way forward. According to the manual, you always check chain tension with the bike on the sidestand. If you can't get the chain tight enough with 110 links, then it's time to remove 2 links.
FYI: The 5th Gen service manual specifies setting chain slack on the center stand.
Thank you for the correction. I don't have one of those service manuals. I have a 4th gen one, though. biggrin.gif
I should have said, my manual, not the manual. Sorry for being so absolute!
I would rather be able to measure on the center stand. It's a whole lot easier. I get lots of practice almost dropping the bike, though.
Looking back, I came off more than a little terse. Sorry, I didn't intend that. The centerstand does make it easier. My KLR is sidestand only and chain slack is a bit of a pain, particularly if you overtighten and have to whack the rear wheel to shove it forward. I've come close to hitting it hard enough to shove the thing off the sidestand. rolleyes.gif
Da9,
As to length, I'd make that decision before I assemble the chain. Two extra links is a lot, add the impact of dropping a tooth up front and I suspect it'll be too long (although I don't know with any certainty what the total range of adjustment ist). On the other hand if you use the stock size up front and add a couple of teeth to the rear, 110 might very well work fine. Regardless, if you have the tool to stake the master link, you can easily remove any excess length yourself.
If a stock is 108 links(I think that's correct 5th gen) then 108 is as long as you should run unless and only if you are adding teeth to the rear sprocket, which you are Not !
Dropping one on the front makes the chain even longer adjustment wise, cut it down to the proper length and be happy for a long time!
fing02.gif