Track Mods For A 5th Gen

I was an inch from buying a track ready 97 gsxr 600, then I figured I'd buy gear this summer and save a few thousand just doing small trackdays and long trips. So the VFR needs some lightening up for the track.

What would you all do if you were going to push your heavy VFR on the track? I'll turn this into a compilation thread if there are some good suggestions. So far I have:

Remove Center Stand
Ditch Tool Kit
Go up 2 teeth in the rear, or down one up front.
Lower front end in forks.
Frame Sliders

Any ideas for or thoughts on:
*weight removal
*clipon bar conversion
*Headlight removal/blockout plate fab
*Rearsets or peg RAISING

Anything else would be greatly appreciated. I know, this is somewhat like turning a boat into a car when it'd be cheaper to just buy a car, but I'd like to see how she turns out.

Thanks in advance,

PaPP

I bought a wrecked 5th gen on Ebay for $2000 just to turn into a track bike. Its mostly finished now, just need to be painted.

Too bad the thread was lost in the database crash, it had alot of info. I've spent quite a bit in parts like galfer rotors, had the front suspension done by aftershocks, have a penske rear shock, highmount pipe, custom corbin seat, more stuff than I can remember.

1- Sell VFR800

2- Buy track-prepped VFR400

3- Outbrake GSXR1000's and pass them on the outside all day long (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)

Everything you listed is a good start. Make sure you get the sag set. You may need to buy springs if the ones you have now are compressed too far in order to set the sag. That alone will make a big difference in the handling of your VFR.

PaPP, Jan 14 2007, 12:07 AMI was an inch from buying a track ready 97 gsxr 600, then I figured I'd buy gear this summer and save a few thousand just doing small trackdays and long trips. So the VFR needs some lightening up for the track.

What would you all do if you were going to push your heavy VFR on the track? I'll turn this into a compilation thread if there are some good suggestions. So far I have:

Remove Center Stand
Ditch Tool Kit
Go up 2 teeth in the rear, or down one up front.
Lower front end in forks.
Frame Sliders

Any ideas for or thoughts on:
*weight removal
*clipon bar conversion
*Headlight removal/blockout plate fab
*Rearsets or peg RAISING

Anything else would be greatly appreciated. I know, this is somewhat like turning a boat into a car when it'd be cheaper to just buy a car, but I'd like to see how she turns out.

Thanks in advance,

PaPP

Make sure you post some pictures once you're finished.

Pretty easy to say buy brand x model x racer rep sportbike, but I like the fact that you are going to save some money and buy gear. Also good to start on the track without jumping all in first thing. I did half a dozen or so trackdays on my '99. You won't know what you are missind until you do step up and buy something more track ready.
I ended up removing the headlight, taillight, and signal marker lights, too. If you're gonna break stuff, at least that's a few less bucks to replace. I taped over the holes for cleaner look.
Check your service manual, because I believe the right side mounting bolt for the center stand is reverse thread. It's blocked by the rear header and that has to come off first, in any case.
You are going to scrape the pegs pretty easy, so get used to that. Remove the feelers, for sure.
Your track day provider may require that you flush out the green coolant and use a substitute. Water wetter and distilled water is the cheapest way to go, aside from plain distilled water.
Do the basics, and set up your suspension to get started. No need to spend big bucks on aftermarket suspension early on, IMO.
Michelin Pilot Powers the street version) are great. Haven't tried the new Power 2CT, but should be even better. Same with the Dunlop Qualifiers, although I haven't tried them either. No need to go with race tires and warmers.
Also buy an Easy Up or similar other brand of canopy for shade at the track along with some folding chairs.

Good call on the Pilot Powers, I did a 5k trip last summer so I bought BT010 rear and an 020 front - they've been decent, but I'm really ready for something a little softer - the qualifiers seem to be hot here in mpls, so I'll probably run those, and keep my bt's to have swapped back on if I do some distance - there's a tire guy a few blocks from here.

It's got a newer rear shock set for 2-up, and I don't mind the stiff ride at all - it makes it nicer on the track I think; and the front has racetech gold valves as well. De-snorkeled with a k/n.

Here's a pic of my baby after a paintjob and the de-dumboing. I really need to paint those headers!

[image: dctc0608120615oz4.jpg]

I would shim your shock 5mm for more ground clearance.
I wouldn't bother with trying to get rearsets, as there are none produced that I know of, and it doesn't really matter if you have fold up pegs because the headers and fairings will be dragging right after your peg touches down.

Cool, I'll look around for some how-to's on shock shimming. Sounds like a good idea! The pegs are already cut away, so that'll help a little.

2 other questions -

Is there a highmount pipe between my headers and my V&H pipe I could buy, or I'd just have to have one bent up? Estimated cost on a custom bend?

Are there better brake pads I should invest in, and would it be worth it to disconnect the linked braking?

PaPP, Jan 14 2007, 03:59 PMCool, I'll look around for some how-to's on shock shimming. Sounds like a good idea! The pegs are already cut away, so that'll help a little.

2 other questions -

Is there a highmount pipe between my headers and my V&H pipe I could buy, or I'd just have to have one bent up? Estimated cost on a custom bend?

Are there better brake pads I should invest in, and would it be worth it to disconnect the linked braking?

EBC HH

PaPP, Jan 14 2007, 03:59 PMIs there a highmount pipe between my headers and my V&H pipe I could buy, or I'd just have to have one bent up? Estimated cost on a custom bend?

Are there better brake pads I should invest in, and would it be worth it to disconnect the linked braking?

Not much you can do about the headers, unless maybe predator, TBR, or one of the other after market headers made out of unobtanium might give better clearance, but I doubt it and it would cost a fortune.
EBC HH+ pads work great for street and track days.
I would leave the linked brakes alone; only downside to them are weight and a PITA to bleed. I just bleed the front lines as I could really care less about any of the rest of the plumbing, so it isn't too bad to bleed that way.