Most of the following no longer applies. I've decided to fit my carbon micron for the under tail instead of the 1000rr.
I won a stock 06 1000rr slip-on on ebay for 1 dollar....yes a dollar, + 18$ shipping. My bro is an excellent metal fabricator, has a plasma torch, welder, pipe bender, so I should be able to move along pretty quick with this. So far I gutted it and now I'm in the beginning phases of seeing how I might fit it. One question I have for others who have done under seat exhaust on a 5th gen, how much clearance do I need from the bottom of the pipe to the tire??? Thanks in advance, and I'll post up as things progress. For now, here's some pics[image: gallery_6964_1381_91828.jpg] P1010149.JPG
TheScott, Feb 14 2007, 10:25 PMI won a stock 06 1000rr slip-on on ebay for 1 dollar....yes a dollar, + 18$ shipping. My bro is an excellent metal fabricator, has a plasma torch, welder, pipe bender, so I should be able to move along pretty quick with this. So far I gutted it and now I'm in the beginning phases of seeing how I might fit it. One question I have for others who have done under seat exhaust on a 5th gen, how much clearance do I need from the bottom of the pipe to the tire??? Thanks in advance, and I'll post up as things progress. For now, here's some pics
I've got just over 4" with mine, tire to dual canisters with the shock set on very low preload. Looks good, if that ends up not leaving enough room, you might try a 600rr can. They're a little smaller, I got about as far as you did with a 600rr canister, but not having a metal fabricator/welder around I threw in the towel. What are you going to do for an underseat tray?
vfrcapn, Feb 15 2007, 02:57 AMI've got just over 4" with mine, tire to dual canisters with the shock set on very low preload. Looks good, if that ends up not leaving enough room, you might try a 600rr can. They're a little smaller, I got about as far as you did with a 600rr canister, but not having a metal fabricator/welder around I threw in the towel. What are you going to do for an underseat tray?
As it sits with zip ties I have 4". For the underseat tray I'd like to use some thick sheet aluminum. Seems like the aluminum would dissipate the heat a little better that steel sheet. But aluminum sheet is frickin expensive. At any rate that's my next step, we'll see what happens...
TheScott, Feb 15 2007, 07:24 AMAs it sits with zip ties I have 4". For the underseat tray I'd like to use some thick sheet aluminum. Seems like the aluminum would dissipate the heat a little better that steel sheet. But aluminum sheet is frickin expensive. At any rate that's my next step, we'll see what happens...
Check around for a metal warehouse or something online like this place, www.onlinemetals.com I bought enough 2'x3' .040 sheets to do 5 trays for under $30 at a local shop.
TheScott, Feb 15 2007, 10:24 AMBut aluminum sheet is frickin expensive.
Buy an aluminumn snow shovel (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/idea3.gif) That's a large sheet for about $16. If you can find it in Florida, that is (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/biggrin.gif)
I got one to convert my gas BBQ grille to use charcoal. Worked all summer like a charm... Untill yesterday, when I had to shovel some snow (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/goofy.gif)
vfrcapn, Feb 15 2007, 11:16 AMCheck around for a metal warehouse or something online like this place, www.onlinemetals.com I bought enough 2'x3' .040 sheets to do 5 trays for under $30 at a local shop.
Thanks for the link, much cheaper than I'm finding anywhere locally. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)
Another question for ya, you said about 4 inches clearance for you from tire to bottom of the wolf cans. Is that with rear at full extension/on center stand?
TheScott, Feb 15 2007, 10:24 AMBut aluminum sheet is frickin expensive.
Buy an aluminumn snow shovel (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/idea3.gif) That's a large sheet for about $16. If you can find it in Florida, that is (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/biggrin.gif)
I got one to convert my gas BBQ grille to use charcoal. Worked all summer like a charm... Untill yesterday, when I had to shovel some snow (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/goofy.gif)
Brilliant I heard in mexico, ny? they had 12 ft of snow in 10 days!!!!!!!!! Probably hard to find a snow shovel there huh?
A couple of years ago, I considered modding an RR muffler to my superhawk along with a VFR SSS. Anyway, here's some of the concerns I had/have: Stock mufflers get MUCHO hot. Did you also get the corresponding metal heat shield for the RR pipe? On the 6th gen, Honda moved all the electronics away from the cans. Your R/R isn't going to be very happy there, IMO.
How about adding a 919 subframe and some aftermarket 919 pipes? hmmm..... (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/idea3.gif)
vfrcapn, Feb 15 2007, 11:16 AMCheck around for a metal warehouse or something online like this place, www.onlinemetals.com I bought enough 2'x3' .040 sheets to do 5 trays for under $30 at a local shop.
Thanks for the link, much cheaper than I'm finding anywhere locally. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)
Another question for ya, you said about 4 inches clearance for you from tire to bottom of the wolf cans. Is that with rear at full extension/on center stand?
That was just the first place in google, no affiliation, check around, ymmv.. 4" is with the bike on the sidestand, it's about 4 1/4" on the centerstand.
Although I admire your determination, I can't advise using 1000rr can. It's so big and heavy it's like using a missile to kill a mouse.
I built my underseat setup with just one of the two gutted cans from a stock 6th gen exhaust and still had to shorten its length by about 2/5ths and cut a relief at the front bottom edge to match the contour of the tire. I got nearly ideal back-pressure and flow (albeit with the can gutted. I know because performance afterward was slightly better and definitely no worse) using a muffler that's much smaller and lighter than the 1000rr unit. Despite the fact that it had a lot more space around it than the 1000rr can, it melted or warped everything plastic within 1.25" of its circumference. That alone would keep me from using the 1000rr can.
Even with the smaller and lighter (and slimmer top-to-bottom) 6th gen can, I had to shim the rear about 5/16" at the upper shock mount to avoid hitting the pipe (and with my wife on board we still hit occasionally).
I spent about 21 hours (solo) fabbing my underseat system, but I'm guessing 35+ if you decide to make the 1000rr can work (even then, I fear you'll end up regretting it).
After riding with mine for a season, I bailed and tried a tok tokkie underbody muffler for several months (sadly, it had cornering clearance and gasket sealing issues and required the use of smaller-diameter 2000-2007 headers, so it's back on the shelf at the moment).
Now I'm in the middle of rebuilding my underseat system with a newly fabricated undertray and forward-tilted battery box. I went for max clearance and will certainly be able to avoid the issues I had the first time through, but at what cost? Similar to you, I spent about $20 for the stock cans and mid-pipe, but then I spent $150 in materials for the first underseat attempt, $700 for the tok tokkie setup (labor/materials. Paid a welder for tig welding), and $600 so far to rebuild the underseat exhaust correctly ($550 of which went to my new mig welder (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/491.gif) ). So you can understand why I'd like to save you some misery...
No matter what you decide, I wish you luck. But I'd start with a smaller, lighter can and give yourself as much clearance as you can get. You'd be amazed how far that wheel will travel when you hit a monster pothole!
It appears as though to do the underseat zorst install justice, you have to either remodel the subframe (or fit one from a model that has an a underseat exhaust already), or mount two smaller cans to the sides of the underseat area, or make a custom muffler that will have sufficient clearance for the tyre due to being flat and/or dished. In addition, wouldn't you want to incorporate adequate heat shielding and/or venting so that nothing gets fried (including your pillion's butt)?
magellan, Feb 15 2007, 03:55 PMAlthough I admire your determination, I can't advise using 1000rr can. It's so big and heavy it's like using a missile to kill a mouse.
I built my underseat setup with just one of the two gutted cans from a stock 6th gen exhaust and still had to shorten its length by about 2/5ths and cut a relief at the front bottom edge to match the contour of the tire. I got nearly ideal back-pressure and flow (albeit with the can gutted. I know because performance afterward was slightly better and definitely no worse) using a muffler that's much smaller and lighter than the 1000rr unit. Despite the fact that it had a lot more space around it than the 1000rr can, it melted or warped everything plastic within 1.25" of its circumference. That alone would keep me from using the 1000rr can.
Even with the smaller and lighter (and slimmer top-to-bottom) 6th gen can, I had to shim the rear about 5/16" at the upper shock mount to avoid hitting the pipe (and with my wife on board we still hit occasionally).
I spent about 21 hours (solo) fabbing my underseat system, but I'm guessing 35+ if you decide to make the 1000rr can work (even then, I fear you'll end up regretting it).
After riding with mine for a season, I bailed and tried a tok tokkie underbody muffler for several months (sadly, it had cornering clearance and gasket sealing issues and required the use of smaller-diameter 2000-2007 headers, so it's back on the shelf at the moment).
Now I'm in the middle of rebuilding my underseat system with a newly fabricated undertray and forward-tilted battery box. I went for max clearance and will certainly be able to avoid the issues I had the first time through, but at what cost? Similar to you, I spent about $20 for the stock cans and mid-pipe, but then I spent $150 in materials for the first underseat attempt, $700 for the tok tokkie setup (labor/materials. Paid a welder for tig welding), and $600 so far to rebuild the underseat exhaust correctly ($550 of which went to my new mig welder (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/491.gif) ). So you can understand why I'd like to save you some misery...
No matter what you decide, I wish you luck. But I'd start with a smaller, lighter can and give yourself as much clearance as you can get. You'd be amazed how far that wheel will travel when you hit a monster pothole!
All good points/info. I have some thinking to do before I move much further along. I had similar thoughts of shaping in a relief on the bottom side of the RR can for clearance. Heat is definitely something I need to figure out....weight, I don't care so much about that. I dunno, we'll see where this goes. First step for me is fabbing up the under tray, then I can move on. Hey, maybe I'll wind up using my carbon micron can, that was always a consideration before I wound up with the RR exhaust for a buck.
TheScott, Feb 15 2007, 02:27 PMHey, maybe I'll wind up using my carbon micron can, that was always a consideration before I wound up with the RR exhaust for a buck.
If you do this, get a Micron end cap for a 916/996/998. This will make the exhaust outlet face down rather than to one side.
(I ASSume you would turn the oval can 90' sideways for clearance)
TheScott, Feb 15 2007, 02:27 PMHey, maybe I'll wind up using my carbon micron can, that was always a consideration before I wound up with the RR exhaust for a buck.
If you do this, get a Micron end cap for a 916/996/998. This will make the exhaust outlet face down rather than to one side.
(I ASSume you would turn the oval can 90' sideways for clearance)
I saw your post on another thread about those end caps, if I go with the micron, I'd have to get my hands on one of those.
Yes, you ASSume correctly (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/goofy.gif)
veefer800canuck, Feb 15 2007, 04:50 PMScott, tell me about your R/R int eh 1st pic? It looks more havily finned than mine.
Is that the new and improved Honda P/N? Or is it the Electrosport brand?
I'll have to get back to you on that. When I bought the bike a little over a year ago with 20k on it, the PO said that he had replaced the R/R twice. I didn't ask beyond that and about 16k later have not had any problems. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)
TheScott, Feb 15 2007, 01:27 PMAll good points/info. I have some thinking to do before I move much further along. I had similar thoughts of shaping in a relief on the bottom side of the RR can for clearance. Heat is definitely something I need to figure out....weight, I don't care so much about that. I dunno, we'll see where this goes. First step for me is fabbing up the under tray, then I can move on. Hey, maybe I'll wind up using my carbon micron can, that was always a consideration before I wound up with the RR exhaust for a buck.
Just an observation: I've had a chance to ride now with the steel undertray from the Wolf Kit (Corbin seat) and the aluminum tray I built with a Sargent seat. (I think the bike lost about 60 pounds replacing the Corbin and steel tray. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/wink.gif) )
The aluminum seems to dissipate the heat very quickly. I haven't seen the bottom of the Sargent seat get any more than ever so slightly warm to the touch, same with the tray, but that's with the carbon canisters. Still, that heat is going somewhere.. I did an Autocad drawing of my undertray if you want it for the dimensions, can send as jpg.
veefer800canuck, Feb 15 2007, 04:33 PMIf you do this, get a Micron end cap for a 916/996/998. This will make the exhaust outlet face down rather than to one side.
Just got an email back from Micron, $90 for one of those end caps. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/dry.gif) I know that's not ridiculous when calculating the cost of the entire slip-on assembly, but I think I'll just have to live with the outlet the way it is for now. like I said before, I'm a cheap a$$ (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/goofy.gif)
On a side note, when I put my 929 shock on, I wound up with ~43mm spacer. In thinking of clearance for the undertail, does anyone know how much more I can go with shims before I hit the dog bone? AND, with raising the rear much more, is it a simple matter of adjusting the forks down in the triples to compensate and not mess up the whole rake/trail stuff?
vfrcapn, Feb 15 2007, 04:56 PMI did an Autocad drawing of my undertray if you want it for the dimensions, can send as jpg.
Please do, that would be awesome (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)
Thanks again vfrcapn for the drawing/specs for the under tray. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif) My bro and I got it all cut out last night, tonight I'm going to town with the rivet gun.
vfrcapn, Feb 15 2007, 04:56 PMI did an Autocad drawing of my undertray if you want it for the dimensions, can send as jpg.
Please do, that would be awesome (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)
Thanks again vfrcapn for the drawing/specs for the under tray. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif) My bro and I got it all cut out last night, tonight I'm going to town with the rivet gun.
Not a problem, if you strictly went off my dimensions let's hope you don't need a hammer to get it to fit also. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/goofy.gif)
The rear wheel travel is 5" or so, and you'll need all of it. Try to get the canister as high as possible in the subframe - I actually cut some of the east-west bulkheads away to gain another 20mm on mine (which is a genuine Wolf 4th Gen system).
Go to your nearest airport and cadge around a few of the aeronautical businesses (a helicopter maintenance shop is ideal) to get some heat shieding from them - it's got an aluminium skin with some high tech material sandwiched between it, and is quite malleable so can be fitted into your new undertray easily. You won't find better heat shielding, and they throw this stuff away all the time. Mine actually came off a Hercules engine.
Good luck, it would appear that you've got a fair shot at making this work well.
The Phantom, Feb 18 2007, 07:49 PMThe rear wheel travel is 5" or so, and you'll need all of it. Try to get the canister as high as possible in the subframe - I actually cut some of the east-west bulkheads away to gain another 20mm on mine (which is a genuine Wolf 4th Gen system).
Go to your nearest airport and cadge around a few of the aeronautical businesses (a helicopter maintenance shop is idea) to get some heat shieding from them - it's got an aluminium skin with some high tech material sandwiched between it, and is quite malleable so can be fitted into your new undertray easily. You won't find better heat shielding, and they throw this stuff away all the time. Mine actually came off a Hercules engine.
Good luck, it would appear that you've got a fair shot at making this work well.
Thanks for the info. Thanks to the drawing vfrcapn provided the under tray is all cut out and partly installed. Wound up using 1/16th" sheet aluminum from some old signs I had in the back of the warehouse. Hopefully that will be sufficient. I actually 99% sure I'll be using my carbon micron can. I'm taking the easy way out, less concerns with heat, clearance, etc... I just added a shim to my shock to try and get a tad more clearance. My 929 spacer was at ~43mm, so now its at about 44.5mm. Think I have enough clearance now and there is adequate clearance from the bottom of the shock to the dog bone at full extension. Once the under tray is all finished, just have to wait on material for the up pipe.
End of thread · 30 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 2 Mar 2007