Out of 16 valves I found one intake valve 0.001" on the tight side. I'm looking at the Honda service manual regarding the procedure to adjust and it's a lot different than my 86' (which is just a lock nut and set screw design). The manual sends you to various places in different chapters that involve removing camshafts, radiator, carburetors, thermostat housing, water pipe, lower fairings, and air cleaner housing. Of course this is after you've already removed the seat, fuel tank, and other fairings. So, before I jump in and tackle this, having never done it before, I would appreciate any help with personal experiences, particularly what to avoid and maybe any tricks of the trade to offer. The manual is a bit abbreviated and assumes the user is well versed at this.
I should add that the bike has low miles and the valves have never been "adjusted". Finally, since I'm in there, thinking about adjusting those that are on the tight side to more nominal clearances.
Thanks.
If I read you right, you've got one intake clearance gap that's .001 on the tight side?
Save yourself some time and call it close enough.
The procedure to adjust is tedious, but not impossible for a first timer but do you really want to all that for one valve just barely out of spec.
I'd pat myself on the back for accomplishing the check and button it back up.
Thanks for the response and yes you read it correctly. The Honda manual shows intake valve clearance 0.006" plus/minus 0.001" and I have one intake that measures 0.004". I would be more than happy to leave the factory cams, carbs, radiator, etc intstallations undisturbed but I don't want to do any damage to the engine. Since it's only going to get tighter with time/miles how far does one let it go before saying enough is enough and perform the adjustment?
For average wear, how much tighter with miles can one expect? Like 0.001" tighter per 20K miles? At a minimum I'll continue to monitor the clearances on a regular interval.
gm1777, Mar 11 2007, 12:57 AMThanks for the response and yes you read it correctly. The Honda manual shows intake valve clearance 0.006" plus/minus 0.001" and I have one intake that measures 0.004". I would be more than happy to leave the factory cams, carbs, radiator, etc intstallations undisturbed but I don't want to do any damage to the engine. Since it's only going to get tighter with time/miles how far does one let it go before saying enough is enough and perform the adjustment?
For average wear, how much tighter with miles can one expect? Like 0.001" tighter per 20K miles? At a minimum I'll continue to monitor the clearances on a regular interval.
I've left them when they are .001 out. I tend adjust them when they are .002 or more out. I did a bunch of exhaust valves shortly after I bought my bike (with 34K on it). They were all out .003 to .005. Last time I checked them I had two valves out by .001 and left them alone. I'm curious where you are reading about pulling carbs and what not? If you are deep enough down in the bike to get the measurements, you shouldn't need to do any further work to pull the cams. It is just 6 bolts (I think) and paying careful attention to orientation at that point.
I actually took the measurements last fall, put the bike back together, then rode very little over the winter. Now I'm contemplating what to do.
The Honda service manual, page 3-9 Valve Clearance, top of the page, sends you to page 8-2 Camshaft removal, that states requisite services Radiator removal, Carb removal, Thermostat housing removal, Water pipe removal, and Spark plug removal. And when you go to those sections it states requisite services including lower fairings and coolant draining. But, after looking at this more closely maybe these are just required for cylinder head removal? I agree with you, it appears that to remove the intake cam it's just eight bolts that secure the camshaft holders in place. No reason to remove the exhaust cam, or does it need to be removed to allow the intake cam to be removed?
When you said that you had exhaust valves out 0.003-0.005, were they tight or loose?
gm1777, Mar 11 2007, 06:49 PMI actually took the measurements last fall, put the bike back together, then rode very little over the winter. Now I'm contemplating what to do.
The Honda service manual, page 3-9 Valve Clearance, top of the page, sends you to page 8-2 Camshaft removal, that states requisite services Radiator removal, Carb removal, Thermostat housing removal, Water pipe removal, and Spark plug removal. And when you go to those sections it states requisite services including lower fairings and coolant draining. But, after looking at this more closely maybe these are just required for cylinder head removal? I agree with you, it appears that to remove the intake cam it's just eight bolts that secure the camshaft holders in place. No reason to remove the exhaust cam, or does it need to be removed to allow the intake cam to be removed?
When you said that you had exhaust valves out 0.003-0.005, were they tight or loose?
The 4 cam shafts should be removable independent of each other.
I had recalled that the valves were loose, but when I looked the measurements up, I was wrong. I had 4 exhaust valves that were tight. I looked at the general trend and both my intake and exhaust valves have become slightly tighter. I thought the general trend should have been loose exhaust and tight intake valves.
For some reason my cyl #1 exhaust valves have gone from the edge of the loose spec to the edge of the tight spec. Can any bench mechanics tell me why the would happen independent of the other cylinders?
Good news on the camshaft removal independence.
Given the shim type valve design I would expect them, intake and exhaust, to get tight with normal wear.
I'll have to look at the book again regarding cylinder layout but I suspect it has to do with oiling/cooling and maybe that cylinder runs a little hotter (aft bank maybe?).