VFRDiscussion ARCHIVE / READ-ONLYREAD-ONLY

What about an "italian stallion" viffer

308 posts Started 5 Apr 2012 Last recovered post 18 Sep 2012 Wayback Machine snapshot 10 Jul 2017
#1 karhawk Thread starter

I was looking at some body work on ebay for an MV Agusta F4

[image: 108755%2540MV-Agusta-F4-750S-19.jpg]

#2 The Phantom

It would probably fit, the F4 is amazingly narrow for an I4 - even narrower than a 916. The bodywork would probably sit nicely against the frame of a VFR750.

Someone put F4 bodywork onto a Kawasaki a while back and it looked sensational (ZX-7R I think).

#3 karhawk Thread starter

Well it's official, the "Italian Stallion" parts front faring and panels are on their way to me.

Chris

Oakland, Ca.

#4 trjerm

post pics of the fitting, did you go w/ the R1 front suspension and what rear wheel are you plasnning? Tom

#5 karhawk Thread starter
trjerm

post pics of the fitting, did you go w/ the R1 front suspension and what rear wheel are you plasnning? Tom

will do as soon as it gets here I'll do a mock up

I got an 8 spoker from a member here and will go with R1 forks waiting for people to get back to me.

Chris

#6 karhawk Thread starter

Squint and you can see a viffer in there

[image: 2000-mv-agusta-f4-strada-1.jpg]

#7 mello dude

I'm gonna be watching this one. I think the F4 is one of the most beautiful bikes on the planet.

#8 karhawk Thread starter

Any body know where I can find one of these?

[image: plug.JPG]

#9 karhawk Thread starter

I got some shopping done today:

Agusta body panels and headlight

07 Ri shocks set and axle

rotors

Front wheel from 05 R1

Rear body and frame from 02 r6 (thanks for the tip phantom!)

harley oil cooler

I'll post some photos when parts arrive

#11 karhawk Thread starter

Tear down and wash off

[image: _IGP2176.JPG][image: _IGP2168.JPG]

[image: _IGP2167.JPG][image: _IGP2172.JPG][image: _IGP2173.JPG][image: _IGP2175.JPG]

#12 SEBSPEED
Veefer800Canuck

:lurk:

+1

#13 Veefer800Canuck

That's a Fiat X1/9 I see in the background.

So you are confirmed to be a qualified electrician then. Very good. That might come in handy building your VFR. :laugh:

#14 JeffLaurence

You also must have a magical formula for preventing steel from oxidizing!!!!!!!! :smile:

#15 SEBSPEED
JeffLaurence

You also must have a magical formula for preventing steel from oxidizing!!!!!!!! :smile:

Yeah, it's called living in California! :laugh:

#16 Conedodger

I was following this with great interest...then I got distracted by the X1/9. I see we're both fans of Italian design!

Edit: Deleted photo so as not to distract from this build thread. :fing02:

#17 karhawk Thread starter
Veefer800Canuck

That's a Fiat X1/9 I see in the background.

So you are confirmed to be a qualified electrician then. Very good. That might come in handy building your VFR. :laugh:

You just have to remember what plug goes where right? I'm a hack, but I did get the horns on the Fiat working, we had 4 of them, down to 2.

#18 SEBSPEED

Posting car pics within a thread focused on motorcycle content is ok, hosting them on VFRD's server is not.

#19 karhawk Thread starter

At least I had the good sense to put the VFR in front of mine!

I would say a ban for life would be appropriate

Chris

#20 karhawk Thread starter
Conedodger

I was following this with great interest...then I got distracted by the X1/9. I see we're both fans of Italian design!

Hope I'll be forgiven this one time for posting a picture of my cages. (If not, it'll be deleted.)

[image: 7056747805_14cb330f74_b.jpg]

A daily driver and a race car, who could want anything more?

#21 Conedodger
karhawk

At least I had the good sense to put the VFR in front of mine!

I would say a ban for life would be appropriate

Chris

I would have to photoshop mine in. I no longer own the X1/9s.

#22 karhawk Thread starter

I had to something while waiting for parts

[image: _IGP2180.JPG]

#23 karhawk Thread starter

With 929 triples to go with the R1 forks, what bearings do I use? Are the 929/VFR bearings the same?

Thanks

#24 SEBSPEED
karhawk

With 929 triples to go with the R1 forks, what bearings do I use? Are the 929/VFR bearings the same?

Thanks

Yes, they are the same as are almost all Hondas since 1980. All Balls part number 20-1022 if you want tapered rollers.

#26 karhawk Thread starter

Thanks to fellow member Bob S. for a nice 8 spoker

freshly powder coated

[image: _IGP2182.JPG]

#27 karhawk Thread starter

The fairings came today! I was concerned about the width of the MV front faring but it looks perfect, but it looks like the front light housing may have to be butchered up.That is an 02 rear sub frame from an R6, thanks for the tip Phantom! The front of this almost looks like some prehistoric bird. Red fairing, red tail and red tank?! I'm thinking of painting most of the silver bits including the frame "cast coat iron" engine paint from Dupli-Color. Pix taken with an iphone 4s[image: IMG_1350.JPG]

#28 aug

excited.

#29 karhawk Thread starter

This is a 98-99 900RR gauge cluster, thanks Sebspeed and MrMatt for the gauge and idea, a temp sensor from the 98 900RR works with the VFR and a speedohealer kit will fix the speedometer, everything else should work.

[image: _IGP2185.JPG]

#30 karhawk Thread starter

Forks came in today, 07 Yamaha R1 with 7k miles, I would kill for my front wheel right about now, it should be here Monday

[image: _IGP2190.JPG]

#31 karhawk Thread starter

Frame and swing arm painted, I'm not sure how this color will look with the red fairings, satin black may be better

[image: _IGP2194.JPG]

#32 karhawk Thread starter

Coils relocated beside the airbox, does this mean I will have to run ground wires since they are bolted to the airbox? One is up the other is down because the plug wire wasn't long enough.

[image: _IGP2192.JPG]

#33 JeffLaurence

Unless there is a ground wire in addition to the hot lead going to the coils,

yes you will need to run grounds to any coils not mounted to the frame

#34 timmythecop

I love the frame paint. It screams "HRC factory race parts"

#35 karhawk Thread starter
JeffLaurence

Unless there is a ground wire in addition to the hot lead going to the coils,

yes you will need to run grounds to any coils not mounted to the frame

Thanks I thought so.

#36 karhawk Thread starter

This is with the F4 light hooked to VFR front bracket mount, the body work looks pretty close with out cutting the headlight housing, I'lll know more when the clipons get here.

[image: _IGP2200.JPG]

[image: _IGP2198.JPG]

#37 karhawk Thread starter

It is looking like I will have to modify the upper triple by cutting off the key bracket portion

in order to get this MV headlight up higher. The whole key assembly will have to be relocated or removed for a on/off switch..

#38 karhawk Thread starter

L side frame

[image: _IGP2201.JPG]

The color is growing on me, I'll wait to see what is looks like when all the red plasitic is on. I have a half gallon of Omni single stage auto paint left over from my daughters Fiat spider paint job that I will paint the fairings with. A gold chain might be nice.

#39 karhawk Thread starter

This is a bracket I made to mock up the headlight, the head light had to be raised because the faring needs added ground clearance, I will get it further dialed in when the front wheel arrives. I estimate 5-6" of ground clearance once the belly pan is on.

I saw my first MV F4 on the way to work today, pretty cool with those pea shooters out the back.

[image: _IGP2203.JPG]

[image: _IGP2208.JPG]

Front to back the fairing is pretty close now, the height of the bottom of the fairing has room to adjust a couple inches down if needed, can't do much more until I have the front wheel.

#40 karhawk Thread starter

A shot of the approx. placement of the gauge cluster and new clipons

[image: _IGP2209.JPG]

#43 v4vfrgixxer750

Looking pretty awesome so far mate

Wat triples did u use to put the r1 forks on what modification was required? As i have an 07 set of gold forks that/ front wheel laying about from my cbr project that got turned into this

[image: 416796_10151283436630274_880775273_22947447_592630515_n.jpg]

:D

Most of the guys on that mv site are total w**kers lol

they just don't get making summin your own...... hate narrow minded idiots lol

keep up the work an the pace! :)

#45 karhawk Thread starter
Veefer800Canuck
karhawk

Thanks

I posted a photo and a couple of question over at http://www.mvagusta....ead.php?t=45815 and a few members are in quite a tizzy about my plans.

BLASPHEMER! :tongue: :laugh:

I would have thought that Italian bike lovers would be a little more laid back about it. I didn't post there to get their backs up, just to find some info about brackets, which I still haven't got! They could take some lessons from Vfrd members.

#46 jeremy77

I just read through the comments over there... I love when you responded to the "Why not sell these to someone who will use them for a real MV" comment with "Anyone could have bid on them"

It's looking great, man... keep it going!

#47 mrmatt

Awesome idea, looks great so far. Will be interested to see how the MV fairings, VFR tank, and R6 tail all look together, keep up the good work.

#48 karhawk Thread starter
mrmatt

Awesome idea, looks great so far. Will be interested to see how the MV fairings, VFR tank, and R6 tail all look together, keep up the good work.

Here are a couple of shots with the tail mocked up, most tails look pretty similar to me, though the MV F4 tail is pretty distinctive with those pea shooters sticking out, just squint and imagine it all Red. I will need those triangular pieces on the front of the VFR original tail fairing to plug the holes below the tank and above the frame. And the rear seat area will have a cowl cover for the single seat look.

[image: _IGP2210.JPG]

[image: _IGP2211.JPG]

[image: _IGP2212.JPG]

#49 Veefer800Canuck

Too arse high. Your wedding vegetables will not be happy. And it looks goofy.

Chop the lower subframe brackets and bring that thing down to earth a bit more.

#50 mk2davis

^^ + 1 At first I thought the pic was condensed on the sides. It does look a little awkward, IMO.

#51 mk2davis

and I just got done reading the MV thread. What a bunch of . . . fascinating people. It seemed that some were hip to what you're trying to do, and some were very very not. I guess there is something psycological about telling someone what they should or shouldn't be doing, instead of answering their question. (Hypocrite alert: See above ^^^ ) I guess a better way to state my previous post is that If it were me, I'd make the tail angle less severe.

I can't wait to see how this comes out. :lurk:

#52 CaptainApe

I don't know about MV owners... but us Aprilia owners are much more laid back :tour: Please don't group me with all the other Italian bike riders! I like what you're doing!

#53 karhawk Thread starter
Veefer800Canuck

Too arse high. Your wedding vegetables will not be happy. And it looks goofy.

Chop the lower subframe brackets and bring that thing down to earth a bit more.

agreed, waiting for the front wheel so I can get a more accurate line. I think the lower bracket need to be chopped about 1"

#54 karhawk Thread starter
CaptainApe

I don't know about MV owners... but us Aprilia owners are much more laid back :tour: Please don't group me with all the other Italian bike riders! I like what you're doing!

I hope I can pull it off so it doesn't look like some monster, a couple members said it was the best of both worlds, the reliability of a Honda with looks of a MV!

#55 mello dude

The MV thread was fun to read. Some real jerks there.

Btw - your head light bracket turned out awesome! :smile:

#56 taglicious

Chris lol, it was nice chatting with you today. I can't wait to see how this turns out... nice to see other crazy bastards out there doing these types of swaps ;-) KUDOS my friend :tour:

#57 karhawk Thread starter
mk2davis

and I just got done reading the MV thread. What a bunch of . . . fascinating people. It seemed that some were hip to what you're trying to do, and some were very very not. I guess there is something psycological about telling someone what they should or shouldn't be doing, instead of answering their question. (Hypocrite alert: See above ^^^ ) I guess a better way to state my previous post is that If it were me, I'd make the tail angle less severe.

I can't wait to see how this comes out. :lurk:

Thats the first rough fitting, I stole the idea from Murry, it looks like I have to cut the bottom stays 10 or so mm.

#58 karhawk Thread starter
karhawk

A shot of the approx. placement of the gauge cluster and new clipons

[image: _IGP2209.JPG]

Does anyone do black anodizing? They did't offer a black version in 50mm.

#59 Dutchy

As for the adds riddled MV website, boy am I glad to be on VFRD :fing02:

#60 The Phantom
karhawk
mk2davis

and I just got done reading the MV thread. What a bunch of . . . fascinating people. It seemed that some were hip to what you're trying to do, and some were very very not. I guess there is something psycological about telling someone what they should or shouldn't be doing, instead of answering their question. (Hypocrite alert: See above ^^^ ) I guess a better way to state my previous post is that If it were me, I'd make the tail angle less severe.

I can't wait to see how this comes out. :lurk:

Thats the first rough fitting, I stole the idea from Murry, it looks like I have to cut the bottom stays 10 or so mm.

Hi Chris

I have had a quick look at mine (to remember what i did) and should be able to get some pics to you in the next day or so.

First mod was to cut the R6 fueltank support, leaving just enough of it at the back to maintain the Yamaha seat tang locator. I also think I told you that you'd have to cut the seat locator off the back of the VFR tank, well you don't - you just need to bend the leading edge of it down far enough for the Yamaha subframe crossmember to clear it.

The next thing I did was to cut each of the four R6 subframe spar mount points off, just far enough back that I could then trim the spar tubes off the inserts (each mounting point has about 20mm of alloy that slides into the spar before being welded). That way it would be possible to reinsert the inserts into the shortened spars and re-weld.

At this point you can run a pair of large zipties through the top frame holes and around the subframe crossmember, and zip it up against the VFR frame. You should find that the seat will fit on and snug up perfectly against the rear of the fueltank.

The bottom spars will hit the frame right where the holes are, so tape 'em up to protect your paint (tape the top ones up too). The tail will sit too high like this though. You will need to trim the spars further once you work out how you're going to do your brackets. But just cutting them like suggested above still leaves plenty of metal there to work with and give you a good feel for how it's going to work.

What I then did was to put a cabinetmakers ratcheting sash clamp across the bottom spars, and slowly close them until they slipped between the bottom frame mounts. Let them slide in about 15mm, then release the clamp, with the top ziptied on it all stays there (even with all the bodywork fitted) and you get the final look. That was how it was jury-rigged for the pic below. But actually just bending the spars in and welding the original mounting lugs back on is not so simple, because with the spars bent in the bodywork - specifically the undertail panel - doesn't fit together properly. I'd also be worried about the potential cold-bending effect on the strength of the subframe... I still think the U-shaped clamps around inner/outer frame holes is the way to go but will be interested to see what you do. I will get pics and measurements to you asap, so hold off on cutting till you get those.

[image: 4166661450_0b615dc813_b.jpg]

#61 karhawk Thread starter

Thanks Murray

I think your'e right about U clamps and shortening the spars, bending them would probably be Ok if done right but the problems with the bodywork fitment wouldn't be easy to solve. I will weld U shaped ends on my spars but will cut off the ends with the holes and reinsert them further into the spar tubes for strength. also the spar ends could dead end into the frame for added strength once the length is right. I'll wait for your input before cutting. I actually have two rear subframes so I could use one as a test dummy.

#62 The Phantom

Another possibility is to fit the lower spars with adjustable joints to allow the tail to be raised or lowered for best aesthetic and riding position reasons. It would not be good to weld everything up and then find that the riding position is wrong... at the very least you'd want to stringline across the seat and to the floor either side to get a measurement that you could compare to stock VFR seating position.

Having said that, there is also the opportunity to raise the seat height, that way you could also raise the pegs (Seb has advised me that CBR900RR rearsets are a bolt-on) and maintain the comfortable VFR seat-footpeg relationship, and also get your weight forward for more spirited riding... most production-based racebikes have a seat height that is well above the standard bike's seat height.

#63 karhawk Thread starter
The Phantom

Another possibility is to fit the lower spars with adjustable joints to allow the tail to be raised or lowered for best aesthetic and riding position reasons. It would not be good to weld everything up and then find that the riding position is wrong... at the very least you'd want to stringline across the seat and to the floor either side to get a measurement that you could compare to stock VFR seating position.

Having said that, there is also the opportunity to raise the seat height, that way you could also raise the pegs (Seb has advised me that CBR900RR rearsets are a bolt-on) and maintain the comfortable VFR seat-footpeg relationship, and also get your weight forward for more spirited riding... most production-based racebikes have a seat height that is well above the standard bike's seat height. The spar ends are about 20mm and the welds 6mm so you could cut off the lower spar ends and install the threaded rod U bracket.

No reason you couldn't put a threaded rod with a U bracket at the end, you could tap and thread the portion of the lower spar end to adjust the U bracket in and out.

#64 karhawk Thread starter

How does this look? Murray you were right picking this frame, with careful welding of brackets everything should line up pretty good. I couldn't help myself and starting wacking the spars off 5 minutes after UPS came with the box!

[image: _IGP2217.JPG]

#65 karhawk Thread starter
karhawk

How does this look? Murray you were right picking this frame, with careful welding of brackets everything should line up pretty good. I couldn't help myself and starting wacking the spars off 5 minutes after UPS came with the box!

[image: _IGP2217.JPG]

[image: _IGP2219.JPG]

#66 timmythecop

nice and quick progress.

And after reading the MV weenie roast, I am certainly glad I have not been baned here.

#67 karhawk Thread starter
timmythecop

nice and quick progress.

And after reading the MV weenie roast, I am certainly glad I have not been baned here.

I guess I got their Brioni underpanties a little twisted up! : )

#68 karhawk Thread starter

latest and final? mockup of the tail, this gives me about 4.5" of wheel travel, plus ability to adjust up. Waiting for triple bearings

and fork install for final mock up.

[image: _IGP2220.JPG]

#69 karhawk Thread starter

I installed the front end, triple roller bearings, and most of the rear frame today. Dumb shit that I am I pushed it off the center stand forgetting there was no shock installed, that was fun trying to get it back on the stand again, by myself.

[image: _IGP2225.JPG]

[image: _IGP2224.JPG]

[image: _IGP2221.JPG]

[image: _IGP2227.JPG]

#70 Veefer800Canuck

Ugh, no shock. Sucks.

Glad to see some progress, you're gonna be riding in no time.

#71 karhawk Thread starter

These photos are mostly for "the Phantom" since I copied his idea, this is the upper bar on the Yamaha tail, 2nd photo is the lower adjustable bracket, unbolt bracket and unscrew until proper ride height is achieved.

[image: _IGP2233.JPG]

[image: _IGP2232.JPG]

Sorry of offend those more gifted machinists and fabricators, I am more blacksmith then anything, mostly done with cordless hand tools. Although the welder did some nice tig work. I shortened the upper by about 23mm and lowers by about 40mm. Made new solid blocks of aluminum welded into the lower spars about 3/4" long, then drilled and tapped with 8mm grade 10.9 counter sunk bolts. It all seems pretty solid.

#72 karhawk Thread starter

Starting to look like a motorcycle again, the tail packaging is mostly done. The front headlight/fairing is done. Waiting on a 3rd.

gen tank and some front wheel spacers.

[image: _IGP2238.JPG]

#73 Veefer800Canuck

Tease, that's a lousy angle.

Waiting for more pics......

#74 vanion2
Veefer800Canuck

Tease, that's a lousy angle.

Waiting for more pics......

+1

:lurk:

#75 YoshiHNS
Veefer800Canuck

Tease, that's a lousy angle.

I agree. How did you learn to take such lousy pics. I demand that you go out there and practice taking better pictures and post them up here so we can see your improvement.

:tongue:

#76 timmythecop

does your house have power steering?

#78 Veefer800Canuck
timmythecop

does your house have power steering?

Gearhead garden hose hanger.

#80 karhawk Thread starter
Veefer800Canuck

Tease, that's a lousy angle.

Waiting for more pics......

Excuse me that's art photography, and the wheel is from a 71 Fiat 124 spider (good eye Dutchy).

I will put this on the scale once it's done, it has been on a diet, much lighter tail assembly much lighter front wheel and the body work probably weighs half what a stock body weighs, it's also got a smaller can, no rear sets and the gauge from the 900RR that weighs about a third of a stock unit. The headlights are about a wash.

#82 SEBSPEED

lol, or tell Art to be more productive! :D

#83 karhawk Thread starter
Veefer800Canuck

Fire Art and get a new guy!

:-)

Well if I could just get that shock I would be able to move the damn thing and take some more shots

#84 karhawk Thread starter
SEBSPEED

lol, or tell Art to be more productive! :D

Some one mentioned that 900rr foot pegs fit the VFR, do you have any personal experience? I need something maybe a little less bulky.

Thanks

#85 SEBSPEED

I can confirm that 900RR foot pegs are indeed a direct bolt-on for the 4th gen.

If aftermarket sets are used, some shifter linkage work will be required, and the left side may need to be spaced away from the frame to clear the swingarm by a few mm.

#86 karhawk Thread starter

I installed new front bearings, also trying to source stainless flat washers, M8 2mm thick. The original fairing stays with U shaped extensions work great! More art photography hahaha

I hope to get some more body and paint work this weekend.

[image: _IGP2254.JPG]

[image: _IGP2239.JPG]

[image: _IGP2237.JPG]

#87 karhawk Thread starter

Fairing repair

[image: _IGP2228.JPG]

[image: _IGP2255.JPG]

#88 The Phantom

I hope you are keeping those excitable MV forum dudes up to date with progress :ph34r:

#89 SEBSPEED

I made these titanium rotor spacers for my front end conversion. In hindsight, I could have easily added some locating tabs to bank against the wheel tabs.

[image: a31d9a5a.jpg]

Maybe one day I'll get around to making version 2.0...

#90 karhawk Thread starter
SEBSPEED

I made these titanium rotor spacers for my front end conversion. In hindsight, I could have easily added some locating tabs to bank against the wheel tabs.

[image: a31d9a5a.jpg]

Maybe one day I'll get around to making version 2.0...

You don't have an exrtra set of those laying around by any chance? Those are nice! The tabs may not be quite as effective on the spacers as they would be on the wheels, but like Phantom said as long a you locate the trotors on initial torque down and use blue loketite you should be good to go.

#91 SEBSPEED

The shoulders on the bolts engage my spacer. So if I were to add a pair of tabs ( a "female" for the wheel tab) that would lock the spacer to the wheel and tie everything together without the extra hassle.

I don't have an extra set, sorry.

#92 karhawk Thread starter

Here is approx. position of the muffler for now. I have a 304 Stainless 45 coming to make it work. And the reservoir looks like it will work here.

[image: _IGP2258.JPG]

[image: _IGP2257.JPG]

How much can the front be lowered safely? How would the rear be adjusted? I like the idea of VFR 1200 clip ons.

#93 karhawk Thread starter
SEBSPEED

The shoulders on the bolts engage my spacer. So if I were to add a pair of tabs ( a "female" for the wheel tab) that would lock the spacer to the wheel and tie everything together without the extra hassle.

I don't have an extra set, sorry.

I agree, to be almost as strong and aligned, the stepped spacer idea seems good

#94 AtlantaVFR800

Cant wait to see the final product! What color combination are you doing again? All red on the olive frame?

#95 karhawk Thread starter
AtlantaVFR800

Cant wait to see the final product! What color combination are you doing again? All red on the olive frame?

Yeah all red plastic,with mostly black bits, wheels are black

black front fender, black hugger black levers.

It might look half way decent with only the upper faring.

It's a Fiat spider rosso color.

#96 karhawk Thread starter

Here is the rear cowl I paid dearly for

[image: _IGP2260.JPG]

#97 Veefer800Canuck

Those guys on the MV forum are really giving you some stick! :musik20:

Buncha purists. :rolleyes:

#98 karhawk Thread starter
Veefer800Canuck

Those guys on the MV forum are really giving you some stick! :musik20:

Buncha purists. :rolleyes:

I have a feeling there are some lurkers secretly admiring this idea.

#99 karhawk Thread starter

Finally got her off the jack stands, I included a photo of the new hardware for the rotors, 2 MM spacers(I found some 5/16" washers that were 2mm thick) and 12.9 hardened rotor bolts with longer shoulders so the bolt shoulders penetrate the wheels.

[image: _IGP2263.JPG]

[image: _IGP2261.JPG]

#100 karhawk Thread starter

Why do my calipers bottom out on the rotors before the caliper bolts are tight?

Do the Yamaha caliper bolts have washers? It's an 07 Yamaha R1 front end.

Thanks

#101 WestOfBen
That's starting to take shape now. To my eyes the line of the fairing and tail are matching nicely.
#102 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]WestOfBen, on 04 May 2012 - 01:36 AM, said:

That's starting to take shape now. To my eyes the line of the fairing and tail are matching nicely.
I think you might be right, those boys over at MV Agusta aren't seeing clearly.
The challenge will be to get a custom lower tank faring fabricated to cover the gap just below the tank. I will use special foam board to rough out the pieces then send them on to a guy who does fiberglass work.
#103 karhawk Thread starter
Here is the 45 degree stainless pipe and RC 51 oil cooler, the pipe OD on the cooler is 1/2" approx, the stock lines are about 3/8 so I will braze some smaller nipples on the pipes.  I used the larger oil cooler because of the MV faring has less cooling openings then the stock VFR. Will the oil pump be able to handle the added capacity?

[image: Posted Image]
#104 karhawk Thread starter
I got the NOS 3rd gen tank today! Big fat honda script so there is no confusion what kind of bike this is.  May I should leave the front fairing MV script on just to piss off the purists over at MVAgusta.net.
[image: Posted Image]
#105 karhawk Thread starter
Here is a quick cardboard piece I cut for the tank fairing, it will be faceted like the MV or not.  I will use Depron XPS foam to make the real piece, input is welcome. I can't believe what perfect shape the tank is in.  I like the old school honda script rather then the wing.

[image: Posted Image]
#106 Veefer800Canuck
Tank looks good. Oil cooler size does not affect the oil pump. Once the cooler is full, the oil leaves at the same rate it enters, the pump cannot "tell" how large the cooler is. Pressure remains the same, minus the minor frictional fluid loss which is negligeable.

As for the oil cooler lines, I'd be leery of brazing anything, because that would be your weak point. I'd prefer an adaptor between the two tubing sizes.

The hard tubing is metric, so 10mm, not 3/8". Your "1/2" is probably 12mm.

You can get stainless steel tubing adapters from Parker or Swagelok that are good to 3000 psi and come in metric. They are removable and reusable.

When I am on a PC later today, I will spot you a link.
#107 Rice
Looks great.
Is there a way to either raise the front cowl or angle it forward, so that the line where is connects to the lower ferring flows with the tank line?
Not sure if it will mess with positioning of the lower plastics though.
#108 mello dude
I'm really liking this project.   - Just an esthetic thing is that the covers you got on the bottom edge should follow the frame angle and the bottom strut of the sub frame. Move the V point so it fits parrallel to the angle of the frame and subframe V.

Just 2 cents, mbe the MV lower body wouldnt mate up with this, but it just a suggestion.

- I guess part 2 could be you could take it down farther and cover the sub frame strut completely..

You rock dude, very cool project.
#109 Polarbear

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 19 April 2012 - 09:11 AM, said:

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on 18 April 2012 - 11:51 PM, said:

nice and quick progress.

And after reading the MV weenie roast, I am certainly glad I have not been baned here.
I guess I got their Brioni underpanties a little twisted up!  : )

:laughing6-hehe:

Keep going man, this fairing you pick is beautiful. Just reading this thread for the first time today.
C
#110 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Rice, on 04 May 2012 - 01:50 PM, said:

Looks great.
Is there a way to either raise the front cowl or angle it forward, so that the line where is connects to the lower ferring flows with the tank line?
Not sure if it will mess with positioning of the lower plastics though.

there is a little adjustment avail. but look at the MV F4 on page one the first photo, it slants up to follow the tail line
#111 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 04 May 2012 - 01:42 PM, said:

Tank looks good. Oil cooler size does not affect the oil pump. Once the cooler is full, the oil leaves at the same rate it enters, the pump cannot "tell" how large the cooler is. Pressure remains the same, minus the minor frictional fluid loss which is negligeable.

As for the oil cooler lines, I'd be leery of brazing anything, because that would be your weak point. I'd prefer an adaptor between the two tubing sizes.

The hard tubing is metric, so 10mm, not 3/8". Your "1/2" is probably 12mm.

You can get stainless steel tubing adapters from Parker or Swagelok that are good to 3000 psi and come in metric. They are removable and reusable.

When I am on a PC later today, I will spot you a link.

Excellent thanks!
#112 karhawk Thread starter
It's going fast now, I found some aluminum spacers for the front calipers and bought some longer bolts.  It looks better then I thought it would, but has no fender no tank fairing no belly pan, no cowl mounted ye,t more body work and paint tomorrow.
I'm pushing hard against my $3000 "budget build" so I will have to paint it myself. First I have to match some Fiat Omni single stage
to match the red of the  tank. All the plastic to match the tank red/orange. I  haven't rigged the lower faring and belly pan yet.
[image: Posted Image]
#115 Veefer800Canuck
BTW, I am guessing based on your dimensions that your tubes are 10mm and 12mm, you should measure to be 200% sure before you order.

Also, you can get elbows instead of straight unions, in case you need to turn a corner with your different sized lines. Ask the distributors above.
#116 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 04 May 2012 - 11:26 PM, said:

Parker makes one as well, scroll down to the HBZ 12-10-SS part number which is a 12mmx10mm stainless tube/tube union.

http://www.parker.co...&Wtky=FITTINGS#

[image: Posted Image]

Parker fittings available in your area from here:

VALIN CORPORATION
555 E CALIFORNIA AVE
SUNNYVALE CA 94086
UNITED STATES
Telephone: (408) 730-9850
Fax: (408) 730-1363

That piece in the photo above with a nipple instead of a threaded fitting,I  will be using clamps on the existing oil cooler rubber lines, that company is 35 min. from me.
Thanks
#117 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 04 May 2012 - 11:18 PM, said:

Here is your metric tubing adaptor, 12mm on one end, 10mm on the other. Good for 3000 PSI, and can be unscrewed and reconnected.

part number SS-12M0-6-10M

Swagelok Northern California
3393 West Warren Ave
Fremont, CA 94538
510-933-2500


http://www.swagelok....f7-a5d3fd3672c3

This is what it will look like:

[image: Posted Image]

That's good except the two sets of tubes will never be close enough, Mr. brain dead over here cut the RC 51 lines before a clear plan was laid out.
I will have to go with existing rubber tubes (they were cut close to upper fitting) to a nipple compression fitting on the 12mm line, since I will clamp them.
#118 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 04 May 2012 - 11:26 PM, said:

Parker makes one as well, scroll down to the HBZ 12-10-SS part number which is a 12mmx10mm stainless tube/tube union.

http://www.parker.co...&Wtky=FITTINGS#

[image: Posted Image]

Parker fittings available in your area from here:

VALIN CORPORATION
555 E CALIFORNIA AVE
SUNNYVALE CA 94086
UNITED STATES
Telephone: (408) 730-9850
Fax: (408) 730-1363

Or I guess if I wanted to hard pipe it I could get two 10mm unions and that part you mentioned and a length of 10mm pipe, but Honda in their engine wisdom had a reason for some soft piping in the oil cooler lines. Most Honda engines are great but the VFR V4's are over engineered jewels.
#119 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 04 May 2012 - 11:26 PM, said:

Parker makes one as well, scroll down to the HBZ 12-10-SS part number which is a 12mmx10mm stainless tube/tube union.

http://www.parker.co...&Wtky=FITTINGS#

[image: Posted Image]

Parker fittings available in your area from here:

VALIN CORPORATION
555 E CALIFORNIA AVE
SUNNYVALE CA 94086
UNITED STATES
Telephone: (408) 730-9850
Fax: (408) 730-1363

OK
I get it now, use the piece above with a small 10mm tube/nipple and attach my rubber lines to that.
#120 karhawk Thread starter
another tank fairing mock up, I think I will do body work on the lower tank to smooth it out and have a smaller fairing.
Feel free to chime in I have a pretty thick skin after being racked over the coals at MVAgusta.net

[image: Posted Image]
#121 Veefer800Canuck
I like it, you're heading in the right direction. Obviously it will follow the frame more closely and align with the tank, but you'll get there when you get there.
#123 karhawk Thread starter
I started it up today, it sounds good with the can cut off, nothing like the V4, though it does sound a little like my old 900SS with the bevel driven cams. The RC51 oil cooler is too big has anybody sourced a small aluminum oil cooler that doesn't cost 400 bucks?
#125 trjerm
Hey Chris, that things coming along great, are you going to Sears Point for the AMA races tomorrow. I'm riding my VFR from Hell down along w/ my brother and a couple others from Apple Hill.
#126 VF800Ryan
Great job so far!

Have you tried the 5th gen (2 row) or 6th gen (3 row cooler)?
#127 Resin
Hi Chris,

I've attached two photos. My first phot is one of yours. My second photo represent how you may want to consider to fillet your three small triangular pieces into one smooth looking body part. If your were to smooth out your proposed body,  part that would be in keeping with your present bike's continuity.

Attached Images

  • [image: Chris body section copy.jpg]
  • [image: New Fairing Section.jpg]

#128 YoshiHNS
Got to catch back up on your build. Coming together nicely. Think now you just need to start thinking of adding one of these to the back to complete the MV conversion.

[image: Posted Image]
#129 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]YoshiHNS, on 06 May 2012 - 08:08 AM, said:

Got to catch back up on your build. Coming together nicely. Think now you just need to start thinking of adding one of these to the back to complete the MV conversion.

[image: Posted Image]
There is a guy that is doing a MV swing arm around here, that is one sexy wheel!
#130 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]trjerm, on 05 May 2012 - 10:34 PM, said:

Hey Chris, that things coming along great, are you going to Sears Point for the AMA races tomorrow. I'm riding my VFR from Hell down along w/ my brother and a couple others from Apple Hill.

Sorry I'll miss that, sound like fun!
#131 YoshiHNS

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 06 May 2012 - 11:04 AM, said:

There is a guy that is doing a MV swing arm around here, that is one sexy wheel!

Where did I miss that? I looked at using the triumph swingarms, but they are actually much heavier than the VFR swingarm.
#132 kieran323
G'day mate. Looks great so far.

Don't worry about us MV folks, not all of us are like that. Some of em are die hard purists, which is cool but I think manners were forgotten a little. So apologies on behalf of us.

I think it's great! I used to have a VFR ('86 750 model) and would love to have more in the garage sometime in the future (can't afford any more bikes than the MV at the moment - they aren't cheap to look after). I'm interested to see how the tail will mate up with the over all shape.

As regards to the MV swingarm - I would give that a miss if I was you: they look very nice but one of MV's notorious failings was the engineering of the rear hub (read - way under specced bearings). They had a tendency to fail quite catastrophically.
Perhaps Ducati? (OMG I said the "D" word!!)

Anyway, looking forward to the updates.

Cheers!
#133 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]kieran323, on 06 May 2012 - 05:41 PM, said:

G'day mate. Looks great so far.

Don't worry about us MV folks, not all of us are like that. Some of em are die hard purists, which is cool but I think manners were forgotten a little. So apologies on behalf of us.

I think it's great! I used to have a VFR ('86 750 model) and would love to have more in the garage sometime in the future (can't afford any more bikes than the MV at the moment - they aren't cheap to look after). I'm interested to see how the tail will mate up with the over all shape.

As regards to the MV swingarm - I would give that a miss if I was you: they look very nice but one of MV's notorious failings was the engineering of the rear hub (read - way under specced bearings). They had a tendency to fail quite catastrophically.
Perhaps Ducati? (OMG I said the "D" word!!)

Anyway, looking forward to the updates.

Cheers!

Thanks
I don't take it to personally, some of you guys crack me up over there.  My biggest worry is the tail fairing and tank fairing, the thing that bothers me a little the scalloped tail ends, I think simpler is better, I also plan on snakeskin for the bottom of the tank.  The seat will go the upholstery guy for a little redesign and a new cover.
#134 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]YoshiHNS, on 06 May 2012 - 02:21 PM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 06 May 2012 - 11:04 AM, said:

There is a guy that is doing a MV swing arm around here, that is one sexy wheel!

Where did I miss that? I looked at using the triumph swingarms, but they are actually much heavier than the VFR swingarm.

He hasn't advertised yet with no photos it doesn't exist right?
#135 Alien VFR
By the way, if I'm off the mark on the price, offers are considered.
#136 karhawk Thread starter
Belly pan ck (after about 5 hours of dickin around)
gauge mounted ck
fairing stays ck

I keep putting off the gauge wiring but that will be next, I'll have the spacers for the calipers machined and mounted, brake lines ran, and everything bled next week. Finally the question of getting the tank fairing and tail fairing right. I think I am getting closer on the tank, I don't mind looking at the bits of the frame etc., the 900 RR pedals, brackcets, and swiss cheese heel protectors will make a big difference. Thanks to Seb for the pedals idea.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]



[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]
#138 Polarbear
Love the fairing!!! Almost as ny gen 6....  Nice work. I'm jealous of your skills. Please keep going until you get a finished product, I'm sure it'll be awesome.
C
#139 mello dude
Kinda wondering what a red front fender would look like....
#140 karhawk Thread starter
Anybody have a source for thin heat padding, There are a couple spots where the pipes are touching the belly pan. This belly fairing was already a little cooked from the MV it used to ride on.
#141 mello dude

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 06 May 2012 - 10:05 PM, said:

Anybody have a source for thin heat padding, There are a couple spots where the pipes are touching the belly pan. This belly fairing was already a little cooked from the MV it used to ride on.

These guys have lots of different products for heat shielding
http://www.thermotec.com/
#142 WestOfBen
Yes less is more. I would consider maybe doing that filler piece in a darker colour too. Maybe all you need to do is hide what is behind there and stop a little heat coming out, rather than emphasise another "line" in the styling. If you do this area in red, then potentially you are visually connecting the tank and the seat unit. Do you want to do that?
#144 karhawk Thread starter
Hey Phantom, I do have a gap at the gas tank that I will solve by sending the seat out for some trimming and adjusting, I don't like the corners so they will get trimmed a little, and the front ends at the tank will be a little bit squared to blend with the tank faring and rear plastic. Any more spar trimming might have caused problems.

Chris
#146 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Alien VFR, on 06 May 2012 - 08:02 PM, said:

By the way, if I'm off the mark on the price, offers are considered.


huh?
#147 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Resin, on 06 May 2012 - 04:22 AM, said:

Hi Chris,

I've attached two photos. My first phot is one of yours. My second photo represent how you may want to consider to fillet your three small triangular pieces into one smooth looking body part. If your were to smooth out your proposed body,  part that would be in keeping with your present bike's continuity.

It's too hard to do with the Yamaha rear plastic and I don't think it would suit this build. I'm going with something simple, minimum, I will remove that lower tank strap and fill with bondo to fit the rest of the tank then I will install some black snakeskin to the lower part of the tank, I will have a photo soon when the seat get back.

Chris
#148 timmythecop
snakeskin?  4 MV owners just had a pre-emptive heart attack.
#149 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]mello dude, on 06 May 2012 - 10:15 PM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 06 May 2012 - 10:05 PM, said:

Anybody have a source for thin heat padding, There are a couple spots where the pipes are touching the belly pan. This belly fairing was already a little cooked from the MV it used to ride on.

These guys have lots of different products for heat shielding
http://www.thermotec.com/

Thanks I bought some
#150 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on 07 May 2012 - 05:23 PM, said:

snakeskin?  4 MV owners just had a pre-emptive heart attack.

HAHAHAHA
#151 karhawk Thread starter
I posted this in mods too

What aftermarket remote reservoir style clutch master cylinders are available for this VFR?
The coffin box is hitting the fairing after final adjustment.
#153 kieran323
Snakeskin? I just had a heart attack! :laugh:

Those covers look alright, but need some paint. Anyway of getting screws with heads that are flush with the plate too?

Just gives it that cleaner look.

My 2 cents :smile:
#154 YoshiHNS
I think 16 x 18 is the stock size for the master. Think I picked up an aprilia unit somewhere for somewhat cheap that matched.

Can anyone confirm those numbers?
#155 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]YoshiHNS, on 07 May 2012 - 09:23 PM, said:

I think 16 x 18 is the stock size for the master. Think I picked up an aprilia unit somewhere for somewhat cheap that matched.

Can anyone confirm those numbers?

This one is advertised as "universal" only comes gold, does that mean I can get a gold chain now?

[image: Posted Image]
#156 karhawk Thread starter
Painted can (I used BQ paint and engine clear coat.) and seat spar.  I think I will paint the exhaust shield and flat black to match the can.

[image: Posted Image]
#157 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]kieran323, on 07 May 2012 - 09:21 PM, said:

Snakeskin? I just had a heart attack! :laugh:

Those covers look alright, but need some paint. Anyway of getting screws with heads that are flush with the plate too?

Just gives it that cleaner look.

My 2 cents :smile:

I can paint them red. The material is so thin counter sunk screws wouldn't work, maybe one size smaller.
#158 Ryanme17

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 07 May 2012 - 10:11 PM, said:

[image: View Post]kieran323, on 07 May 2012 - 09:21 PM, said:

Snakeskin? I just had a heart attack! :laugh:

Those covers look alright, but need some paint. Anyway of getting screws with heads that are flush with the plate too?

Just gives it that cleaner look.

My 2 cents :smile:

I can paint them red. The material is so thin counter sunk screws wouldn't work, maybe one size smaller.

How about just sticking them in place?  No screws at all.
#159 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]kieran323, on 07 May 2012 - 09:21 PM, said:

Snakeskin? I just had a heart attack! :laugh:

Those covers look alright, but need some paint. Anyway of getting screws with heads that are flush with the plate too?

Just gives it that cleaner look.

My 2 cents :smile:

this is the snakeskin I may use

http://techspec-usa....&products_id=33
#161 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]YoshiHNS, on 08 May 2012 - 07:01 AM, said:

http://www.ebay.com/...ssories&vxp=mtr

The VFR has a 14mm clutch master, not 16. But not really sure how going larger will affect it.

I like the price of that one better I put a bid on it, the seller of the one I listed states that the 19mm radial universal clutch master cyl. is compatible with 14mm units.
#162 Veefer800Canuck
There is a HUGE difference between 19mm and 14mm. You are displacing WAY more fluid per each millimeter of stroke. Your mechanical advantage is going to disappear, and your lever pull will firm up something MAJOR!

You'll need the arm of a gorilla to pull it in, and half a pull will disengage the clutch instead of a full pull.

Stick with the same diameter, or extremely close to, for best results. It doesn't take much to throw your hydraulic ratios right out the window.

Maybe 16mm, but certainly not 19mm, at least not without changing the slave cylinder too.
#164 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 08 May 2012 - 09:45 AM, said:

There is a HUGE difference between 19mm and 14mm. You are displacing WAY more fluid per each millimeter of stroke. Your mechanical advantage is going to disappear, and your lever pull will firm up something MAJOR!

You'll need the arm of a gorilla to pull it in, and half a pull will disengage the clutch instead of a full pull.

Stick with the same diameter, or extremely close to, for best results. It doesn't take much to throw your hydraulic ratios right out the window.

Maybe 16mm, but certainly not 19mm, at least not without changing the slave cylinder too.
Correct me if I'm wrong but the formula for piston bore size is not the same for radial masters. I have come across two "universal radial master cyl. that state
their 19mm is compatible with a 14mm standard master?  Can some one confirm this?
Thanks
#165 karhawk Thread starter
one more mock up, I would change the black here with that snakeskin tank stuff. brake lines, clutch master, and caliper spacers are the only things holding this back  from a ride.

[image: Posted Image]
#167 karhawk Thread starter
Well at least one of the MV crowd has changed his tune about this build:


"Wow !
When I see first pic , I thought that horror ...but now I think that it's a goog job.
I'll open a topic with all your pics in my community ,I want to know the opinion from members .
Thanks for sharing".
http://www.mv-agusta...opic.php?t=1632


#170 Veefer800Canuck
Those hydraulic reservoir covers look familiar. Hmmmm.

Too bad you're gonna have to lose them to clear the fairing.

#171 trjerm
Hi Chris, that's coming out awesome, did that fairing come w/ a belly pan and were you able to fit it ,looks like you were. I've also heard of people putting their oil cooler over a rounded piece of wood and bending it slightly to get more wheel clearance. Could you post more pics of your oil cooler instalation, ?ie which oil cooler did you use and what you did you do to modify the oil lines. I may cpoy your oil cooler mods on my "VFR from Hell" [image: Posted Image]  and may have to figure out a larger radiator.
#172 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]trjerm, on 11 May 2012 - 09:54 PM, said:

Hi Chris, that's coming out awesome, did that fairing come w/ a belly pan and were you able to fit it ,looks like you were. I've also heard of people putting their oil cooler over a rounded piece of wood and bending it slightly to get more wheel clearance. Could you post more pics of your oil cooler instalation, ?ie which oil cooler did you use and what you did you do to modify the oil lines. I may cpoy your oil cooler mods on my "VFR from Hell"   and may have to figure out a larger radiator.

RC51 cooler with 10mm nipples welded on cut off original 12mm lines
I'll use my original rubber lines to fit. I may do the curve thing just for the cool factor, there are some pretty nice looking race radiators but they are 400-500 bucks.
#173 karhawk Thread starter
Anybody care to speculate how the front forks should be set up?  I am currently running at about 15mm lower in front since I'm using a roller bearing triple bearings. Stock height being 21.75" from bottom of frame to center of axle. I thought I would take a demo ride soon to see how the 07 Yamaha R1 forks worked with the VFR.
How much does the rear have to go up if I kelp the front stock ride height? The rear will be a 929 shock set up for my weight of 180#. Can one just shim the rear shock to raise the rear? I'm also trying to figure out the front head light wiring, the MV head light has two wires each to hight beam and low beam, the VFR has the standard three plug sockets, the front turn signals are on the VFR are also three wire with the after market lights I have are two wire. Any ideas?
#174 The Phantom
Hi Chris, you need the triples to be down the forks a tad to get the rake back to something approximating the VFRs spec. IIRC you have an SP1 top tripleclamp? If so, having the top of the fork legs flush with the top of the triple is already getting you close, if you have an CBR gullwing triple then you definitely want at least 15mm from the top of the fork leg to the top of the triple. Look up the topics that zRoYz has posted, his info and pics might help.

At the back you have a few choices. Standard shock with shims between the top clevis and frame will lift the rear, a rough guide is 3mm of shim will give 10mm of lift at the tail. You need to set it according to the rake you've got at the front, but you know that.

To fit a CBR929 shock you need a lengthened top clevis - 45mm longer IIRC. Then you can again shim for more ride height and more aggresive geometry.

The last option available to you is to flip the eccentric. Have a look at what the rear brake caliper bolts to. It has two bolts, their heads protrude out towards the swingarm, and when you rotate the eccentric to its lowest position (roughly 10 o'clock when looking from the wheel side) the lower bolt head will actually contact the swingarm.

Disassemble the rear hub assembly, take that caliper bracket off and countersink the lower hole (or both, for continuity) and fit countersunk screws, and now you can rotate the eccentric through a full 360 degrees.

So, instead of having the axle at 11 o'clock, you can have it at 7 o'clock. If the axle is still in the same place relative to the ground, the swingarm has gone up... and so has the rear of the bike. This lifts the tail by 30-40mm.

You will probably need a 45T rear sprocket if you flip the eccentric, to keep the chain off the swingarm/chainguide. But that's a good thing too, it's the same as dropping to a 15T (VTR1000F) front sprocket as far as overall gearing goes, and your speedo will read high, but it makes the most of the way the VFR makes power, and it also shortens the wheelbase slightly for more nimble handling.

The bike looks fantastic, well done mate!
#175 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]The Phantom, on 13 May 2012 - 12:50 PM, said:

Hi Chris, you need the triples to be down the forks a tad to get the rake back to something approximating the VFRs spec. IIRC you have an SP1 top tripleclamp? If so, having the top of the fork legs flush with the top of the triple is already getting you close, if you have an CBR gullwing triple then you definitely want at least 15mm from the top of the fork leg to the top of the triple. Look up the topics that zRoYz has posted, his info and pics might help.

At the back you have a few choices. Standard shock with shims between the top clevis and frame will lift the rear, a rough guide is 3mm of shim will give 10mm of lift at the tail. You need to set it according to the rake you've got at the front, but you know that.

To fit a CBR929 shock you need a lengthened top clevis - 45mm longer IIRC. Then you can again shim for more ride height and more aggresive geometry.

The last option available to you is to flip the eccentric. Have a look at what the rear brake caliper bolts to. It has two bolts, their heads protrude out towards the swingarm, and when you rotate the eccentric to its lowest position (roughly 10 o'clock when looking from the wheel side) the lower bolt head will actually contact the swingarm.

Disassemble the rear hub assembly, take that caliper bracket off and countersink the lower hole (or both, for continuity) and fit countersunk screws, and now you can rotate the eccentric through a full 360 degrees.

So, instead of having the axle at 11 o'clock, you can have it at 7 o'clock. If the axle is still in the same place relative to the ground, the swingarm has gone up... and so has the rear of the bike. This lifts the tail by 30-40mm.

You will probably need a 45T rear sprocket if you flip the eccentric, to keep the chain off the swingarm/chainguide. But that's a good thing too, it's the same as dropping to a 15T (VTR1000F) front sprocket as far as overall gearing goes, and your speedo will read high, but it makes the most of the way the VFR makes power, and it also shortens the wheelbase slightly for more nimble handling.

The bike looks fantastic, well done mate!

thanks for that
I'll start with 15mm down in front, I 'm borrowing my old stock rear shock for now until the rebuilt 929 arrives.

[image: View Post]The Phantom, on 13 May 2012 - 12:50 PM, said:

Hi Chris, you need the triples to be down the forks a tad to get the rake back to something approximating the VFRs spec. IIRC you have an SP1 top tripleclamp? If so, having the top of the fork legs flush with the top of the triple is already getting you close, if you have an CBR gullwing triple then you definitely want at least 15mm from the top of the fork leg to the top of the triple. Look up the topics that zRoYz has posted, his info and pics might help.

At the back you have a few choices. Standard shock with shims between the top clevis and frame will lift the rear, a rough guide is 3mm of shim will give 10mm of lift at the tail. You need to set it according to the rake you've got at the front, but you know that.

To fit a CBR929 shock you need a lengthened top clevis - 45mm longer IIRC. Then you can again shim for more ride height and more aggresive geometry.

The last option available to you is to flip the eccentric. Have a look at what the rear brake caliper bolts to. It has two bolts, their heads protrude out towards the swingarm, and when you rotate the eccentric to its lowest position (roughly 10 o'clock when looking from the wheel side) the lower bolt head will actually contact the swingarm.

Disassemble the rear hub assembly, take that caliper bracket off and countersink the lower hole (or both, for continuity) and fit countersunk screws, and now you can rotate the eccentric through a full 360 degrees.

So, instead of having the axle at 11 o'clock, you can have it at 7 o'clock. If the axle is still in the same place relative to the ground, the swingarm has gone up... and so has the rear of the bike. This lifts the tail by 30-40mm.

You will probably need a 45T rear sprocket if you flip the eccentric, to keep the chain off the swingarm/chainguide. But that's a good thing too, it's the same as dropping to a 15T (VTR1000F) front sprocket as far as overall gearing goes, and your speedo will read high, but it makes the most of the way the VFR makes power, and it also shortens the wheelbase slightly for more nimble handling.

The bike looks fantastic, well done mate!

If I were to try a 15 tooth front sprocket does that change the length chain I buy? I looked on Ebay for 1000 VTR and they show 16 tooth front.
#176 karhawk Thread starter
A few guys at MVAgusta.net mentioned I should lower the front fairing to get it more in line with the F4, here is the lowest it will go and still be able to fit the belly pan.  It took all day, I had to make two new fairing stay brackets and the main front headlight bracket, I think it was a good idea and it looks better this is the final fit of the fairings. A short list before test ride
mount oil cooler, bleed the brakes and get the headlight wired.


[image: Posted Image]
#177 trjerm
Do the MV's use an inner V on their fairings, I know that I need one on my 4th gen for it to cool correctly.
#178 The Phantom

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 13 May 2012 - 04:43 PM, said:

If I were to try a 15 tooth front sprocket does that change the length chain I buy? I looked on Ebay for 1000 VTR and they show 16 tooth front.
Hmmm maybe they were 16T. Standard 4th Gen gearing is 16/43.

For a 15T front or a 45T rear (which both equate to much the same gearing change) you don't need to alter your chain length.
#179 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]trjerm, on 13 May 2012 - 07:53 PM, said:

Do the MV's use an inner V on their fairings, I know that I need one on my 4th gen for it to cool correctly.

cooling tubes I think they call them, I'm going with the minimum to start we'll see after some hot weather riding.
#180 karhawk Thread starter
I found some plastic moldable material called kydex to fabricate the tank faring, you heat it up in a oven or using a heat gun and mold it.  You can sand it and paint it, and it's 1/8" thick.
#181 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]The Phantom, on 13 May 2012 - 08:13 PM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 13 May 2012 - 04:43 PM, said:

If I were to try a 15 tooth front sprocket does that change the length chain I buy? I looked on Ebay for 1000 VTR and they show 16 tooth front.
Hmmm maybe they were 16T. Standard 4th Gen gearing is 16/43.

For a 15T front or a 45T rear (which both equate to much the same gearing change) you don't need to alter your chain length.

I saw an seller with VTR 1000 15 tooth front gears that should do the trick to get a little more grunt off the line?
#182 douglasthecook

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 08 May 2012 - 09:32 PM, said:

one more mock up, I would change the black here with that snakeskin tank stuff. brake lines, clutch master, and caliper spacers are the only things holding this back  from a ride.

[image: Posted Image]

What material did you use to make the filler panel at the bottom of the tank? I'm attempting to make one out of aluminium, but am not 100% pleased with it at this point...
#183 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on 16 May 2012 - 01:11 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 08 May 2012 - 09:32 PM, said:

one more mock up, I would change the black here with that snakeskin tank stuff. brake lines, clutch master, and caliper spacers are the only things holding this back  from a ride.

[image: Posted Image]

What material did you use to make the filler panel at the bottom of the tank? I'm attempting to make one out of aluminium, but am not 100% pleased with it at this point...

It's just a good looking mock up made out of balsa like foam board I got at the art supply house and painted red. My plan is to use Kydex which is a plastic formable material that you heat up and it will mold to your negative.
#184 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 06 May 2012 - 08:03 PM, said:

Belly pan ck (after about 5 hours of dickin around)
gauge mounted ck
fairing stays ck

I keep putting off the gauge wiring but that will be next, I'll have the spacers for the calipers machined and mounted, brake lines ran, and everything bled next week. Finally the question of getting the tank fairing and tail fairing right. I think I am getting closer on the tank, I don't mind looking at the bits of the frame etc., the 900 RR pedals, brackcets, and swiss cheese heel protectors will make a big difference. Thanks to Seb for the pedals idea.

[image: Posted Image] these brackets don't fit , not sure if 954 and 929 brackets are the same but the ones I got are 60mm center to center, VFR's are 78 c to c.

[image: Posted Image]



[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

#185 douglasthecook

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 16 May 2012 - 05:13 PM, said:

[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on 16 May 2012 - 01:11 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 08 May 2012 - 09:32 PM, said:

one more mock up, I would change the black here with that snakeskin tank stuff. brake lines, clutch master, and caliper spacers are the only things holding this back  from a ride.

[image: Posted Image]

What material did you use to make the filler panel at the bottom of the tank? I'm attempting to make one out of aluminium, but am not 100% pleased with it at this point...

It's just a good looking mock up made out of balsa like foam board I got at the art supply house and painted red. My plan is to use Kydex which is a plastic formable material that you heat up and it will mold to your negative.

Ah, ok, thanks for the info. Would you be willing to make a second one, or mail some Kydex over here, as I'm not sure that I can find it where I live in Germany. I do have a U.S. mailing address, so shipping won't be expensive, and I can easily paypal you. Thanks again!
#186 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on 17 May 2012 - 12:50 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 16 May 2012 - 05:13 PM, said:

[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on 16 May 2012 - 01:11 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 08 May 2012 - 09:32 PM, said:

one more mock up, I would change the black here with that snakeskin tank stuff. brake lines, clutch master, and caliper spacers are the only things holding this back  from a ride.

[image: Posted Image]

What material did you use to make the filler panel at the bottom of the tank? I'm attempting to make one out of aluminium, but am not 100% pleased with it at this point...

It's just a good looking mock up made out of balsa like foam board I got at the art supply house and painted red. My plan is to use Kydex which is a plastic formable material that you heat up and it will mold to your negative.

Ah, ok, thanks for the info. Would you be willing to make a second one, or mail some Kydex over here, as I'm not sure that I can find it where I live in Germany. I do have a U.S. mailing address, so shipping won't be expensive, and I can easily paypal you. Thanks again!

I'll let you know the Kydex should be here shortly, it's my first time working with it at the least it should make a decent negative  mold to use with fiberglass
#188 douglasthecook

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 17 May 2012 - 12:56 AM, said:

[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on 17 May 2012 - 12:50 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 16 May 2012 - 05:13 PM, said:

[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on 16 May 2012 - 01:11 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 08 May 2012 - 09:32 PM, said:

one more mock up, I would change the black here with that snakeskin tank stuff. brake lines, clutch master, and caliper spacers are the only things holding this back  from a ride.

[image: Posted Image]

What material did you use to make the filler panel at the bottom of the tank? I'm attempting to make one out of aluminium, but am not 100% pleased with it at this point...

It's just a good looking mock up made out of balsa like foam board I got at the art supply house and painted red. My plan is to use Kydex which is a plastic formable material that you heat up and it will mold to your negative.

Ah, ok, thanks for the info. Would you be willing to make a second one, or mail some Kydex over here, as I'm not sure that I can find it where I live in Germany. I do have a U.S. mailing address, so shipping won't be expensive, and I can easily paypal you. Thanks again!

I'll let you know the Kydex should be here shortly, it's my first time working with it at the least it should make a decent negative  mold to use with fiberglass

Cool, I'm curious to see how it turns out. I wasd trying to make on like what Hyofighter made, but his is alot nicer that what I was able to fab up.
#190 karhawk Thread starter
I had to lose the center stand because of the MV belly pan, included is a shot of the spacers I had made to use the 320mm rotors. They are counter sunk to fit the caliper locating dowel and have a nose machined to size of the caliper dowel.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]
#191 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on 17 May 2012 - 12:50 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 16 May 2012 - 05:13 PM, said:

[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on 16 May 2012 - 01:11 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 08 May 2012 - 09:32 PM, said:

one more mock up, I would change the black here with that snakeskin tank stuff. brake lines, clutch master, and caliper spacers are the only things holding this back  from a ride.

[image: Posted Image]

What material did you use to make the filler panel at the bottom of the tank? I'm attempting to make one out of aluminium, but am not 100% pleased with it at this point...

It's just a good looking mock up made out of balsa like foam board I got at the art supply house and painted red. My plan is to use Kydex which is a plastic formable material that you heat up and it will mold to your negative.

Ah, ok, thanks for the info. Would you be willing to make a second one, or mail some Kydex over here, as I'm not sure that I can find it where I live in Germany. I do have a U.S. mailing address, so shipping won't be expensive, and I can easily paypal you. Thanks again!

I don't think I will use the Kydex material, it turns out it has to be held on the negative mold with pressure and my negative is made out of bookbinders cardboard so unless I make a plaster of paris base for the negative it won't stand up to the pressure needed to mold the Kydex. I think I will use fiber glass as a backing and bondo to smooth the front.
#192 Veefer800Canuck
Awesome, coming along nicely. Those brakes are going to be stupid powerful!!! This is good.

And your daughter is all kinds of cute!!!!
#194 trjerm
that things coming along great and nice stand to go with it.
#195 karhawk Thread starter
[image: Posted Image]

Tank fairing painted I just need to glue a dowel on the back side, also waiting on the 900RR pedals, brackets and ankle guards. I changed the temp sensor to work with the 900 RR gauge and need to finish wiring to the gauge. This thing barks with that old cut down Micron exhaust.
#197 SEBSPEED
Can't wait to see it in the wild!
#198 trjerm
Hi Chris, thats one of the nicest franken VFR's that I've seen, awesome job so far, when its done give a call and lets go for a ride.
#199 karhawk Thread starter
Anybody wanna hazard a guess about wiring these  connectors? 1st photo is VFR blue and green plugs noted,
2nd photo is the connector for 900 rr gauge. I can't get power to the gauge, I have switched power
going to the red and the two negatives going to the frame.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]
#200 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]trjerm, on 22 May 2012 - 09:22 AM, said:

Hi Chris, thats one of the nicest franken VFR's that I've seen, awesome job so far, when its done give a call and lets go for a ride.

That would be good, I'm itchin to take her out
#201 karhawk Thread starter

SEBSPEED, on 22 May 2012 - 07:43 AM, said:

Can't wait to see it in the wild!

Yeah it's almost been growing roots!
#202 douglasthecook

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 22 May 2012 - 01:11 PM, said:

Anybody wanna hazard a guess about wiring these  connectors? 1st photo is VFR blue and green plugs noted,
2nd photo is the connector for 900 rr gauge. I can't get power to the gauge, I have switched power
going to the red and the two negatives going to the frame.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

When I wired in the CBR 1000RR gauges to my VFR, it was fairly straight forward, for the most part, I just had to match up the color of the wires, but this was also 2-3 years ago, and I don't really remember. I'll check my notes tonight when I get home from work, if I can find them. Have you thought about using Dzus fasteners to hold your tank filler panel to the tank? Remove the rubber grommet from the tank, and pop-rivet in the dzus nut plate. You'll have to drill a small hole in your tank filler panel for the actual dzus fastener, but that should give you quick and easy access to remove the filler panel when you need to do maintenance.
#203 karhawk Thread starter
OK
I got every thing working except for the temp gauge, it just flashes 270 degrees, I recall that the sensor at the thermostat had to be changed to match the 98-99  Honda 900RR gauge which I did.  The one gauge besides the tach I really need is inop.
#204 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on 23 May 2012 - 01:04 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 22 May 2012 - 01:11 PM, said:

Anybody wanna hazard a guess about wiring these  connectors? 1st photo is VFR blue and green plugs noted,
2nd photo is the connector for 900 rr gauge. I can't get power to the gauge, I have switched power
going to the red and the two negatives going to the frame.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

When I wired in the CBR 1000RR gauges to my VFR, it was fairly straight forward, for the most part, I just had to match up the color of the wires, but this was also 2-3 years ago, and I don't really remember. I'll check my notes tonight when I get home from work, if I can find them. Have you thought about using Dzus fasteners to hold your tank filler panel to the tank? Remove the rubber grommet from the tank, and pop-rivet in the dzus nut plate. You'll have to drill a small hole in your tank filler panel for the actual dzus fastener, but that should give you quick and easy access to remove the filler panel when you need to do maintenance.

I thought about a druze fastener for the tank fairing but I used epoxy to glue a pin which mates the way the original 4th gen tank fairing was fastened.
Plus some velcro it's a cleaner look I think.
I got everything working except the temp sensor, I'll order another one from Honda? I took my first ride just now to the bank and of course the battery was dead so I had to push start it, ops remember to ck kill switch before heart attack!
Because of all the wiring and testing I'm not surprised the battery was down, I hope that's all it is, who's gonna work on this beast beside me?
I definitely like the sound. Is there a preferred battery to use?  I tried the smaller Yamaha size and it didn't have enough cranking power,
the other battery is newer full size unit but off brand of some kind.
#205 karhawk Thread starter
Right side is almost done, I'm still waiting for some pedals and brackets and a braided rear brake line.  I shaved some plastic off the bottom of the seat to make room for the larger VFR battery. I'm also waiting for a used starter to see if this will solve the slow/lack of cranking I'm getting.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]
#206 karhawk Thread starter
One more, the 900RR gauge suits the bike well but I do miss the white face on the old tack.

[image: Posted Image]
#207 JeffLaurence
You sure have alot of those metal coloured snakes down there-- don't they interfer with your riding?
#208 Veefer800Canuck
Vfrd member Throttlepimp can do you a custom gauge face in white if you like.

Maybe get a custom "MVfr 750" logo on the tach face??
#209 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]JeffLaurence, on 27 May 2012 - 07:07 PM, said:

You sure have alot of those metal coloured snakes down there-- don't they interfer with your riding?

Huh?
#210 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]JeffLaurence, on 27 May 2012 - 07:07 PM, said:

You sure have alot of those metal coloured snakes down there-- don't they interfer with your riding?

Oh I get it the chain, Iv'e had that for years the only way to get it off is with a torch.
#211 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 27 May 2012 - 07:36 PM, said:

Vfrd member Throttlepimp can do you a custom gauge face in white if you like.

Maybe get a custom "MVfr 750" logo on the tach face??

Thanks for the tip, I'll ck him out
#212 SEBSPEED
Yeah, thanks for the tip Rob! :wink:

Kevin does great work!
#214 Veefer800Canuck
Eh, another project already? You haven't gotten this one running yet!
#215 vanion2
We'll have to call him Seb2...   :ph34r:
#216 Dmitry

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 06 May 2012 - 11:04 AM, said:

[image: View Post]YoshiHNS, on 06 May 2012 - 08:08 AM, said:

Got to catch back up on your build. Coming together nicely. Think now you just need to start thinking of adding one of these to the back to complete the MV conversion.

[image: Posted Image]
There is a guy that is doing a MV swing arm around here, that is one sexy wheel!

There was a guy on a Hawk forum selling those MV wheels and conversion kit for Honda...
#217 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Dmitry, on 29 May 2012 - 08:37 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 06 May 2012 - 11:04 AM, said:

[image: View Post]YoshiHNS, on 06 May 2012 - 08:08 AM, said:

Got to catch back up on your build. Coming together nicely. Think now you just need to start thinking of adding one of these to the back to complete the MV conversion.

[image: Posted Image]
There is a guy that is doing a MV swing arm around here, that is one sexy wheel!

There was a guy on a Hawk forum selling those MV wheels and conversion kit for Honda...

Didn't the F4 have some bearing problems with their swing arm/rear wheel?
#218 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 29 May 2012 - 12:37 AM, said:

Eh, another project already? You haven't gotten this one running yet!
Just a "before" shot I added, I got it running yesterday, it was a bad ground.
anybody need a spare battery or starter?
#219 karhawk Thread starter
Another short 10 mile test ride, it runs good, stops real good and handles pretty good. It's firm but not too firm. I haven't tried any real twistys yet and have not set the sag or touched the R1 forks.
The truck stop scale said 490# with over 1/2 tank of gas.  Does that sound right? Oh and the guys said "nice bike" while I was waiting to get weighed.
#220 Veefer800Canuck
Yeah, just short of 500# seems about right. It ain't a lightweight supersport.....
#221 SEBSPEED
I can't wait to weigh my secret project. I am shooting for 400lbs or less.
#223 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]jeremy77, on 31 May 2012 - 01:52 PM, said:

Secret projects are so Ty Pennington! Give us some pics!!!

[image: Posted Image]
Amen, photos gotta have
#224 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 28 May 2012 - 06:43 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 27 May 2012 - 07:36 PM, said:

Vfrd member Throttlepimp can do you a custom gauge face in white if you like.

Maybe get a custom "MVfr 750" logo on the tach face??

Thanks for the tip, I'll ck him out

Throttlepimp rocks! Just have to send him the gauge when I'm ready.
#226 SEBSPEED
Did I miss the part where you modified the 3rd gen rear tank mount to fit the 4th gen frame?

I see the bottom of your tank doesn't line up with the frame, so you must have made some adapter brackets?

I ask because I just did the same tank swap, but I cut a 4th gen mount off a scrap tank and welded it to the 3rd gen tank.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]
#227 kostritzer
C'mon Seb, how long do we have to wait for you to unveil your "little secret"?   :tongue:
#228 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 02 June 2012 - 04:08 PM, said:

Did I miss the part where you modified the 3rd gen rear tank mount to fit the 4th gen frame?

I see the bottom of your tank doesn't line up with the frame, so you must have made some adapter brackets?

I ask because I just did the same tank swap, but I cut a 4th gen mount off a scrap tank and welded it to the 3rd gen tank.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]
Nice work
I simply used two brackets bolted to the original hole on the 3rd gen tank
#229 karhawk Thread starter
Here is a shot in the wild, pretty funky lookin CAR racing helmet huh? It's like wearing a bowling ball.  I went straight down to cycle gear and got a proper motorcycle lid.  It's much lighter with better peripheral vision and way more aerodynamic.  

[image: Posted Image]
#230 SEBSPEED

 kostritzer, on 02 June 2012 - 08:19 PM, said:

C'mon Seb, how long do we have to wait for you to unveil your "little secret"?   :tongue:

No till it's done. Sorry for the tease.
#231 SEBSPEED

 karhawk, on 02 June 2012 - 08:21 PM, said:

Nice work
I simply used two brackets bolted to the original hole on the 3rd gen tank

Sounds simple enough. Does the tank feel stable when riding? I decided to weld the other mount on due to the front being purely rubber mounted.
#232 karhawk Thread starter
Tank bracket, it seems quite solid I have a piece of gas hose covering the bolt shaft so it fits snug in the hole.

[image: Posted Image]
#233 mello dude

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 02 June 2012 - 08:26 PM, said:

Here is a shot in the wild, pretty funky lookin CAR racing helmet huh? I went straight down to cycle gear and got a proper motorcycle lid.  It's much lighter with better peripheral vision and way more aerodynamic.  

[image: Posted Image]
Um - first street bike?
#234 Veefer800Canuck
Can we ask for a few low, faraway shots, showing the entire side profile?

It's been mostly front 3/4 views from high up, hard to get a gauge on how the bodywork all flows now that it's done?

TIA!!!
#235 soichiro
Lever is crazy low. Raise that thing up.

Looks aok.
#236 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]mello dude, on 03 June 2012 - 12:29 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 02 June 2012 - 08:26 PM, said:

Here is a shot in the wild, pretty funky lookin CAR racing helmet huh? I went straight down to cycle gear and got a proper motorcycle lid.  It's much lighter with better peripheral vision and way more aerodynamic.  

[image: Posted Image]
Um - first street bike?

Yeah I know I need some gear,  last street bike I had was an 86 Ducati F1B  in 1992
I'm like the start of this project in need of work.
#237 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 03 June 2012 - 01:12 AM, said:

Can we ask for a few low, faraway shots, showing the entire side profile?

It's been mostly front 3/4 views from high up, hard to get a gauge on how the bodywork all flows now that it's done?

TIA!!!
I was going to take some photos at Ft. Miley in San Francisco Sat. but it was real foggy. I should be able to take some proper photos now that it is a working bike.
#238 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 02 June 2012 - 08:21 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 02 June 2012 - 04:08 PM, said:

Did I miss the part where you modified the 3rd gen rear tank mount to fit the 4th gen frame?

I see the bottom of your tank doesn't line up with the frame, so you must have made some adapter brackets?

I ask because I just did the same tank swap, but I cut a 4th gen mount off a scrap tank and welded it to the 3rd gen tank.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]
Nice work
I simply used two brackets bolted to the original hole on the 3rd gen tank

I might do that since I have a 4th gen tank
#239 SEBSPEED

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 03 June 2012 - 04:20 PM, said:

I might do that since I have a 4th gen tank

Let me know if you want more pics or info. I can tell you/show you where I cut both tanks, and what I did to make it fit.

Take care when welding on a used tank. My 3rd gen tank shown above had never had gas in it, it was NOS from ebay.
#240 karhawk Thread starter
Well I was going to use pre 99 Honda 900RR pedals and brackets but I just shined up the stock VFR units and modified the 900RR pedals to work with them. I think I like the stock polished look better.

[image: Posted Image]
#241 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Mysta2, on 08 June 2012 - 02:23 PM, said:

The thing looks gorgeous in that red. I love that you committed to that to make it a little different. Job incredibly well done, I hope my own conversion can come out as nice, still quite a ways off though.

Thanks
I have to say most people were pretty supportive
#242 mello dude
I really like your project ----- Suggestion - IMHO you might consider a reroute of the rear brake line. Even the remote posibility of a contact between the chain and the brake line over time probly isnt a good idea. --

- I'll throw out a qualifier, in my travels as a gearhead wrench turner, I am super anal about routing of wires, brake lines and simular stuff. For me it just prevents problems later.
#243 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]mello dude, on 09 June 2012 - 11:22 AM, said:

I really like your project ----- Suggestion - IMHO you might consider a reroute of the rear brake line. Even the remote posibility of a contact between the chain and the brake line over time probly isnt a good idea. --

- I'll throw out a qualifier, in my travels as a gearhead wrench turner, I am super anal about routing of wires, brake lines and simular stuff. For me it just prevents problems later.

It looks closer in the photo then it is, but I hear you it's not quite right.  I'll need to make up a bracket that is a little taller to get it perfect. or maybe go back to a chain guard
#244 Veefer800Canuck
Route the brake line through the inside of the swingarm.
#245 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 09 June 2012 - 05:41 PM, said:

Route the brake line through the inside of the swingarm.
Good idea, real clean
Another 100 bucks, that line will be too short
#246 SEBSPEED

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 09 June 2012 - 06:07 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 09 June 2012 - 05:41 PM, said:

Route the brake line through the inside of the swingarm.
Good idea, real clean
Another 100 bucks, that line will be too short

No way, buy the line and fittings it will cost you 20-30.

I've done it more than once! :fing02:

http://www.vfrdiscus...h-the-swingarm/
#247 2FAST4U
And it still looks as good as ever.
#248 karhawk Thread starter
This will have to do for now, I run dry chain lube so I won't get a lot of chain spray. I will go inside the swing arm once I do a dry run with some windshield washer tubing.

[image: Posted Image]
#249 SEBSPEED
It might seem daunting when you look at it now, but it's really not hard. Push the new brake line from the rear towards the front(towards the shock), and just watch the hole next to the shock. Pull it through when you see it, simple.

Only "gotcha" to look out for is to let the swingarm hang at full extension before you cut the line to size, and leave slack at both ends to prevent excessive contact wear.
#251 zRoYz
Well done I love the MV look & even more like how it pisses off most who ride MV'S if the link to the MV site you posted is any gauge. I must say I always lusted after a MV & a few years back decided to buy myself one because I could, well to cut a long story short after a test ride which was very short because I just didn't want to ride it anymore, I didn't buy one & never will. That is what makes me laugh at allot of comments you received the MV is a work of art for the optics but what it has under the skin is pathetic compared to other offerings. If you like riding an oven which likes to heat up the plastics so much they start to warp, bad fueling which doesn't seem to be a problem MV has ever fixed on any model & one of the worst bikes for rider comfort then sure a MV is a bike to own, which is why most owners hardly ride them & just use them as eye candy. Having said that puts your project in a great light a bike you want to ride everyday that won't fall apart, turn you into a roast chicken & if a mishap does happen wont cost you your first born for parts if you can find them. Well done.
#252 karhawk Thread starter
This will have to do for now, I run dry chain lube so I won't get a lot of chain spray. I will go inside the swing arm once I do a dry run with some windshield washer tubing.

[image: Posted Image]
#255 SEBSPEED
Any plans to paint the fender red?
#256 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 10 June 2012 - 08:02 PM, said:

Any plans to paint the fender red?

I hadn't though about it, it would look good I think but I paid good money for this perfect black one.   I would have to find something beat up to paint and ck it out.
#257 YoshiHNS
Calendar shots for next year right there
#258 Willy
Unbelievable. Geez - the foresight to even start this project amazes me. And the persistence to finish it. Well done!
#259 mello dude

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 10 June 2012 - 08:34 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 10 June 2012 - 08:02 PM, said:

Any plans to paint the fender red?

I hadn't though about it, it would look good I think but I paid good money for this perfect black one.   I would have to find something beat up to paint and ck it out.

+1 for a red front fender
#260 timmythecop
now imagine how sinister and groovy that set up would be in flat black.

just sayin :ph34r:
#261 douglasthecook

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 10 June 2012 - 08:34 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 10 June 2012 - 08:02 PM, said:

Any plans to paint the fender red?

I hadn't though about it, it would look good I think but I paid good money for this perfect black one.   I would have to find something beat up to paint and ck it out.

Don't paint the fender black, get some red pinstriping, and pin stripe the perimeter of the fender. It'll make the fender stand out, yet constrst the red fairings. Plus, if you don't like it, it'll peel off!
#262 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on 10 June 2012 - 11:33 PM, said:

now imagine how sinister and groovy that set up would be in flat black.

just sayin :ph34r:
darth vador vffr
#264 karhawk Thread starter
The brakes are incredible!  The stock brakes were great but these seem better when stopping at speed.  07 Yamaha R1 brakes with 320mm rotors 6 piston calipers and Brembo? radial master.
#265 karhawk Thread starter
750four over at mvagusta.net was nice enough to render my photo with a red fender, I like it.

[image: Posted Image]
#266 karhawk Thread starter
Here is a revalved and re sprung 929 shock with my home made bracket.  It's just a longer 10.9 bolt with an old shock bushing cut down to length, After some welding I'll install it today getting ready for a nice hot weekend.

[image: Posted Image]
#267 CornerCarver
Very nice job Hawk, the bike looks amazing!

....how are you going to pin the shock extension to prevent from rotating under load?
#268 karhawk Thread starter

 CornerCarver, on 14 June 2012 - 11:25 PM, said:

Very nice job Hawk, the bike looks amazing!

....how are you going to pin the shock extension to prevent from rotating under load?
I had to do something to get back on the road this weekend so I pieced that together out of spare parts, The washer fits where the U bracket fit before and is welded top and bottom. I would like to have something lighter though. Is aluminum strong enough?
#269 karhawk Thread starter

 Willy, on 10 June 2012 - 10:17 PM, said:

Unbelievable. Geez - the foresight to even start this project amazes me. And the persistence to finish it. Well done!
It was my good fortune to find a good 96 that needed body work, and then finding this site, a lot of helpful and smart people around here!
#270 timmythecop

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 11 June 2012 - 08:17 PM, said:

750four over at mvagusta.net was nice enough to render my photo with a red fender

Ride it to my house and I'll render it in truck bedliner for ya. :ph34r:
#271 Mysta2
If I get a vote I want to put it for the red front fender. Really pulls out the front of the bike, with the black one the bodywork looks like it's leaning forward and something's missing.

Either way though, a beautiful bike.
#272 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Mysta2, on 15 June 2012 - 07:45 AM, said:

If I get a vote I want to put it for the red front fender. Really pulls out the front of the bike, with the black one the bodywork looks like it's leaning forward and something's missing.

Either way though, a beautiful bike.

I agree, though it looks better in person then photos
#273 karhawk Thread starter
I had to move the coils again because they interfered with the 929 shock, this time I made new brackets and laid them horizontally, 1st test with the new rear shock was impressive, the back end is more settled over rough pavement and better at speed.  I just need to soften up the front a little for now, at the end of the season I will send out the forks to Jamie to have the pistons changed.

[image: Posted Image]
#274 Dutchy
get that rust of yer chain pal! :tongue:   (is it rust?)
#275 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Dutchy, on 15 June 2012 - 12:25 PM, said:

get that rust of yer chain pal! :tongue:   (is it rust?)
Yeah there is a little rust, it needs deep cleaning, the bike has just over 24k miles and my guess this is the 2nd chain it's had.
If I could find an aluminum 45t rear sprocket I would do a chain swap.
#276 Vee-Ef-Ar
Just read along on this one.
Fabulous job
I like how the MV fairing meets the side stand.
Surely some of the folks over in MVland are equally impressed.
#277 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Vee-Ef-Ar, on 15 June 2012 - 04:33 PM, said:

Just read along on this one.
Fabulous job
I like how the MV fairing meets the side stand.
Surely some of the folks over in MVland are equally impressed.

I have to say there were some at MVagusta.net that were supportive, more so when they saw the outcome
#278 thumper
Hey Karhawk, I just realized you are right across the bay from me. I love the look of the bike and the shots at Lands End! I especially admire your determination to get the job done!

I posted here some time ago that my '91 was raped of it's body panels in my garage. I am in the process of collecting the bits and pieces I need and hope to be on the road again in the next month or two.

Maybe I'll see you at Alice's some weekend. Congrats on the great results!
#279 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]thumper, on 16 June 2012 - 01:57 PM, said:

Hey Karhawk, I just realized you are right across the bay from me. I love the look of the bike and the shots at Lands End! I especially admire your determination to get the job done!

I posted here some time ago that my '91 was raped of it's body panels in my garage. I am in the process of collecting the bits and pieces I need and hope to be on the road again in the next month or two.

Maybe I'll see you at Alice's some weekend. Congrats on the great results!

Same thing happened to my bike,  the body work was stolen and the bike has a salvage title.  That's why I got it so cheap and why it became the italian stallion. Iv'e done enough test riding and I'm ready for a proper ride lemme know when your bike is ready.
christophersaul(at)gmail.com
#280 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 10 June 2012 - 07:50 PM, said:

Kicka$$

Good work!!!

Some MV guys mentioned the front intake area would have had a radiator fairing just like the stock VFR has.  I may try one but will have to cut it to get air flow to the oil cooler.
#281 thumper

Quote

Same thing happened to my bike,  the body work was stolen and the bike has a salvage title.  That's why I got it so cheap and why it became the italian stallion. Iv'e done enough test riding and I'm ready for a proper ride lemme know when your bike is ready.
christophersaul(at)gmail.com

I can't believe people steal the plastic off of bikes! I'll have to find a way to make the new panels theft proof.

I'll let you know when I'm back on the road. Can't wait to see your bike up close!
#282 timmythecop
thumper, on 17 June 2012 - 11:53 PM, said: I'll have to find a way to make the new panels theft proof.
#283 The Phantom

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 15 June 2012 - 01:45 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Dutchy, on 15 June 2012 - 12:25 PM, said:

get that rust of yer chain pal! :tongue:   (is it rust?)
Yeah there is a little rust, it needs deep cleaning, the bike has just over 24k miles and my guess this is the 2nd chain it's had.
If I could find an aluminum 45t rear sprocket I would do a chain swap.
Chris, that rust on the chain links means that the chain is dead... you can confirm the diagnosis by adjusting the chain to spec, then grab the chain at 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket and pull hard - if you see daylight between chain and sprocket, time for a new chain.
#284 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]The Phantom, on 18 June 2012 - 09:06 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 15 June 2012 - 01:45 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Dutchy, on 15 June 2012 - 12:25 PM, said:

get that rust of yer chain pal! :tongue:   (is it rust?)
Yeah there is a little rust, it needs deep cleaning, the bike has just over 24k miles and my guess this is the 2nd chain it's had.
If I could find an aluminum 45t rear sprocket I would do a chain swap.
Chris, that rust on the chain links means that the chain is dead... you can confirm the diagnosis by adjusting the chain to spec, then grab the chain at 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket and pull hard - if you see daylight between chain and sprocket, time for a new chain.
Thanks, yep it's toast
Wish I could find a 45t aluminum sprocket, does anyone even make one?
#285 SEBSPEED
Why do you want aluminum? It wears out so quickly. The sprocket is the lightest part in that area of the swingarm, outside of the pinch bolt. The extra weight of the steel won't be noticed and it will last 3 times longer.
#286 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 18 June 2012 - 03:24 PM, said:

Why do you want aluminum? It wears out so quickly. The sprocket is the lightest part in that area of the swingarm, outside of the pinch bolt. The extra weight of the steel won't be noticed and it will last 3 times longer.

This bike won't get too many miles, I figure the last cheap weight I can loose is the sprocket and some titanium fasteners,  it's a moot point however since I can't find one.
#287 SEBSPEED
You should be able to get a 520 conversion kit with an aluminum rear sprocket.
#288 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 18 June 2012 - 06:26 PM, said:

You should be able to get a 520 conversion kit with an aluminum rear sprocket.
Normally I would get a 530 chain? What needs to be done with a 520 chain conversion?


Thanks
#289 SEBSPEED
2 sprockets and a chain, in 520 size instead of 530. Change out like normal.
#290 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 19 June 2012 - 04:57 PM, said:

2 sprockets and a chain, in 520 size instead of 530. Change out like normal.

With standard 43t rear or 45t?
#291 The Phantom
Definitely go 45T on the rear, and 16T on the front. Perfect gearing for a VFR that's more 'sport' than 'tour'.

And when you flip your eccentric, the 45T means the chain won't hit the top of the swingarm :fing02:
#292 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]The Phantom, on 20 June 2012 - 03:03 AM, said:

Definitely go 45T on the rear, and 16T on the front. Perfect gearing for a VFR that's more 'sport' than 'tour'.

And when you flip your eccentric, the 45T means the chain won't hit the top of the swingarm :fing02:
Sounds good
#293 karhawk Thread starter
We had a great ride yesterday, 300 miles approx. with lunch in Big Sur. I only had one thing fall off the bike and it was at a stop light.
I did have a rubbing rotational noise up front that got a little worse as the day went on. With clutch in and engine idling on smooth pavement a constant rubbing with no change when brakes are applied.
The Yamaha R 1 front end has new sealed bearings and the chain is worn but adjusted properly. It was hard to tell if it got louder as speed went up.

It was pushing in slow corners a little, the front is dropped about 12mm and rear shock is shimmed about 3mm.

A good first long ride.
#294 SEBSPEED
And you haven't posted pictures because... Why exactly??

:goofy:
#298 FinnRC36

 karhawk, on 18 June 2012 - 11:43 AM, said:

 The Phantom, on 18 June 2012 - 09:06 AM, said:

 karhawk, on 15 June 2012 - 01:45 PM, said:

 Dutchy, on 15 June 2012 - 12:25 PM, said:

get that rust of yer chain pal! :tongue:   (is it rust?)
Yeah there is a little rust, it needs deep cleaning, the bike has just over 24k miles and my guess this is the 2nd chain it's had.
If I could find an aluminum 45t rear sprocket I would do a chain swap.
Chris, that rust on the chain links means that the chain is dead... you can confirm the diagnosis by adjusting the chain to spec, then grab the chain at 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket and pull hard - if you see daylight between chain and sprocket, time for a new chain.
Thanks, yep it's toast
Wish I could find a 45t aluminum sprocket, does anyone even make one?

Thurn motorsport makes one:
http://www.ebay.de/i...=item4604d73d95
Not cheap though and shipping might be a little expensive. I have one that I'm going to take off as soon as I get my new 520 steel sprocket installed.
#299 karhawk Thread starter

[image: View Post]FinnRC36, on 02 July 2012 - 06:50 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 18 June 2012 - 11:43 AM, said:

[image: View Post]The Phantom, on 18 June 2012 - 09:06 AM, said:

[image: View Post]karhawk, on 15 June 2012 - 01:45 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Dutchy, on 15 June 2012 - 12:25 PM, said:

get that rust of yer chain pal! :tongue:   (is it rust?)
Yeah there is a little rust, it needs deep cleaning, the bike has just over 24k miles and my guess this is the 2nd chain it's had.
If I could find an aluminum 45t rear sprocket I would do a chain swap.
Chris, that rust on the chain links means that the chain is dead... you can confirm the diagnosis by adjusting the chain to spec, then grab the chain at 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket and pull hard - if you see daylight between chain and sprocket, time for a new chain.
Thanks, yep it's toast
Wish I could find a 45t aluminum sprocket, does anyone even make one?

Thurn motorsport makes one:
http://www.ebay.de/i...=item4604d73d95
Not cheap though and shipping might be a little expensive. I have one that I'm going to take off as soon as I get my new 520 steel sprocket installed.
A company in UK offered to have Renthal make me one  for 48 pounds, no one over there stocks a 45t. Are you going for a 520 chain because it's lighter?
#300 YoshiHNS

Because of the lower weight of the 520 chain vs the 530, the bike, at a minimum, feels faster. Not sure if there is documented proof of how much extra power you get.

Chain life is cut in half.

#301 FinnRC36
karhawk
FinnRC36
karhawk
The Phantom
karhawk
Dutchy

get that rust of yer chain pal! :tongue: (is it rust?)

Yeah there is a little rust, it needs deep cleaning, the bike has just over 24k miles and my guess this is the 2nd chain it's had.

If I could find an aluminum 45t rear sprocket I would do a chain swap.

Chris, that rust on the chain links means that the chain is dead... you can confirm the diagnosis by adjusting the chain to spec, then grab the chain at 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket and pull hard - if you see daylight between chain and sprocket, time for a new chain.

Thanks, yep it's toast

Wish I could find a 45t aluminum sprocket, does anyone even make one?

Thurn motorsport makes one:

http://www.ebay.de/i...=item4604d73d95

Not cheap though and shipping might be a little expensive. I have one that I'm going to take off as soon as I get my new 520 steel sprocket installed.

A company in UK offered to have Renthal make me one for 48 pounds, no one over there stocks a 45t. Are you going for a 520 chain because it's lighter?

Yeah the reason is weight. I know I'm going to lose some chain life but weight reduction is the road I've taken and there's no turning back anymore. Check out my thread for details:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/62316-my-3rd-gen-frankenviffer/#entry730181

#302 karhawk Thread starter
FinnRC36
karhawk
FinnRC36
karhawk
The Phantom
karhawk
Dutchy

get that rust of yer chain pal! :tongue: (is it rust?)

Yeah there is a little rust, it needs deep cleaning, the bike has just over 24k miles and my guess this is the 2nd chain it's had.

If I could find an aluminum 45t rear sprocket I would do a chain swap.

Chris, that rust on the chain links means that the chain is dead... you can confirm the diagnosis by adjusting the chain to spec, then grab the chain at 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket and pull hard - if you see daylight between chain and sprocket, time for a new chain.

Thanks, yep it's toast

Wish I could find a 45t aluminum sprocket, does anyone even make one?

Thurn motorsport makes one:

http://www.ebay.de/i...=item4604d73d95

Not cheap though and shipping might be a little expensive. I have one that I'm going to take off as soon as I get my new 520 steel sprocket installed.

A company in UK offered to have Renthal make me one for 48 pounds, no one over there stocks a 45t. Are you going for a 520 chain because it's lighter?

Yeah the reason is weight. I know I'm going to lose some chain life but weight reduction is the road I've taken and there's no turning back anymore. Check out my thread for details:

http://www.vfrdiscus...er/#entry730181

Thanks for the link for the 45t ring most appreciated!

#303 karhawk Thread starter

+2 rear chain gear and new DID VM 530 chain

[image: _IGP2498.JPG]

#304 Burns
YoshiHNS

Chain life is cut in half.

why do you say that? tensile strength on the chain links is totally on par w/ the 530's. I switched to the 520 setup years back and to date haven't seen a drawback.. haven't seen a difference in chain life, or maintence, etc..

#305 karhawk Thread starter

New badging for the Italian Stallion

[image: _IGP2500.JPG]

#306 JeffLaurence

You might consider 'Swiss cheeseing' the steel sprocket (lightening holes)

Just a thought......

#307 karhawk Thread starter
JeffLaurence

You might consider 'Swiss cheeseing' the steel sprocket (lightening holes)

Just a thought......

Thanks a good idea, the gears already are lighter then the factory boat anchors. Notice the rear gears beveled cutout

#308 JeffLaurence

Also, you should look up * trunk monkey*!!!!!!

End of thread · 308 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 10 Jul 2017