This is a photo based thread to expand and hopefully find out all the modifications and hassles in converting a 4th Gen bike bodywork over the the CBR F4i style bodywork. All credit and inspiration goes to Nilton Carlos Barbosa who posted pictures of his Brazilian bike. The initial research showed that he used aftermarket race bodywork. I called around and found out inside information on several companies and quickly dismissed HotBodies Racing. I was pointed towards the Attack Performance race kit which is a two piece front unit(upper/lower) and a one piece solo race tail. This stuff is featherweight...I'll be getting some digital scales this week and will post up the weight reductions in various areas. Thanks to member vfroem who dropped 150lbs off his bike, I decided that I would set a goal of 100lbs for my bike. I have about 28 days left to finish it...started last week with the initial removal of stock bodywork and trial fitting of the Attack stuff.
Next post will show some of the places I had to remove fiberglas for clearance issues. And also show the major issues with the handlebars/brake resevoir and clutch resevoirs.
I am sure you realize that Nilton's bike is a 3rd gen. smile.gif Kudos to you for undertaking this project. Are you gonna do the tail sectoin too?
Stang!!! Looking at the sight, I coulda bought a complete kit for a little more than what I paid for two pieces on mine. I'ma have to explore this more. I look forward to your details of your progress. One other thought, do you know if Nilton changed out the subframe? If so do you know what he used?
Apologies to 3rd gen purists, but I wanted to see how this bike would look without the frame vents. I'm sure there'd be some daylight visible under there; if I were better at Photoshop, I might be able to fake it. Whaddaya think?
Hobie1dog as I said in your last thread, thankyou I've been wanting to do this for a year but couldn't find F4I race glass in AUS & didn't want to buy os incase no work.
Rear single seat setup if you have a friend who has an F4I take measurements off there rear sub frame & make one with mount points to suit VFR. You only really have to worry about mounting points & seat pad location as you can just run single bars back for tail to hold lights due to never going to have a pillion so strength not needed there just at mount points & seat location.
So more or less going on pic above you don't need major strength after duct tail mounting bolt just behind seat pad, after after that point a single box section peice either side would be more than enough to hold lights (If duct tail strong enough using undertail as well then you may not even need to extend sub frame past the side mount point).
The front has to be completed before I'm going to start on the back. I will be getting a F4i subframe and adapting it over as necessary. The two subframes are not very different in dimensions from what I initially measured. I'll make it fit if it takes the last dollar I have. :beer: I am at the point of no return. :o
The gas tank to seat is definitely different on the 3rd Gen, but now I'm going to concentrate on grafting the rear f4i solo tail on the bike and then figure out if/when I want to get a 3rd Gen tank.
Well, I do want to change to the 3rd Gen tank, as I just like the looks of it better.
Anyone got a donor tank out there? The only one on Ebay now is beat up pretty bad.
I like the frame with out the vents .....good job on the Photoshop as usual. :thumbsup:
Last note: Do you think 767 Fixer will shake my hand at the TexasMac meet now? No more NACA ducts. :lol:
The brake and clutch master cylinders are rather tall. I took a trip to the local Honda dealer to look in the showroom at all the bikes to compare heights of them. The one salesman directed me to the service department, where a guy took me in the back room which was filled full of old used bikes. In the dark corner is a 86 VFR with a locked up motor. The brake master cylinder was gone but the clutch cylinder was still there and it looked only 1/2 as tall as the 97 model. He wanted 50.00 for it, so I said I'll be back....went back to work....OOPS...and looked them up on Ebay and found a 86 model being parted out and won both the clutch and brake master cylinders for 15.90 I will most likely be ordering all Goodridge SS hoses as I can get the Yamaha dealer which is 1 mile from my house, to get them in 1 inch increments.....most likely every hose up front has to be about 4 inches longer than stock.
Also had to notch out the bottom fiberglas to position the oil cooler farther forward than the CBR bodywork would allow, otherwise the oil cooler would hit the fork tubes boots at full lock. You can see the red lines that had to be cut out for clearance.
I'm just about done with the front bracket that will hold the small lights positioned inside the fairing/vent openings and attach that aluminum angle bracket to the bottom factory fairing mounting boss on the steering head...I had to take off about 1/16" off each side so that a notched piece of square tubing could slide over it.
The bracket to hold the two small driving lights is made of lightweight aluminum(isn't it all light? :beer: )shown in close position of where it will end up.
The driving lights are rated at 55 watts each and have H3 bulbs in them...they are sold as auxillary driving lights and usually mounted on big Cruisers/Touring bikes for additional lighting. I called the Mfg and asked him about using them as regular driving lights since they were 55 watters and he said they work fine. I did hook one up to see how bright it was, and my son and I both went. JEESH....pretty good for lights that only weigh 7 ozs each.
I'm tired, enough for this time. More pictures later. Stay tooned for more lunacy. :beer:
I still have one small angle bracket to put under the lighting horizontal square tubing piece that will hold the oil cooler up and also a RAM mounting ball that has a 10/24 female threaded insert in the bottom so that only the ball will be showing on top of the tubing.
I'm starting to have serious doubts as to wether or not it will be ready for TexasMac. :beer:
Tomorrow I will order the longer SS braided hydraulic hoses for the clutch and brake master cylinders.
Please don't take this the wrong way because your doing a great job, but those lights look fugly & here in AUS there is no way in hell the law would let that install pass as head lights. It would look so much better if you could find a way to flush mount them buy glassing in those holes & cuting out just the shape of lights & bring them more forward if poss. I think the lights closed in & sticking out just a little will help keep the law away & look much cleaner. Round lights prob would be better to do that with but just an idea, please keep up the good work.
Please don't take this the wrong way because your doing a great job, but those lights look fugly & here in AUS there is no way in hell the law would let that install pass as head lights. It would look so much better if you could find a way to flush mount them buy glassing in those holes & cuting out just the shape of lights & bring them more forward if poss. I think the lights closed in & sticking out just a little will help keep the law away & look much cleaner. Round lights prob would be better to do that with but just an idea, please keep up the good work.
Thanks for the comments.....I agree with you. I have been doing more research on small lights and I've found some 2" diameter PIAA driving lights that will most likely look better and even fit in the openings more forward for better visibility. I'll be taking more pictures with the lights hooked up to show what it looks like at night. smile.gif I will confess, that I wanted to try these first because they were $ 40.00 for the pair and the other ones like the PIAA brand were $ 300.00 so there is always room for Continuous Improvement Concepts to be implemented in the future......hey when I get done with the initial conversion, I'll have to have something to fiddle with anyway. :D
I'm starting to have serious doubts as to wether or not it will be ready for TexasMac.
Marty, given the work rate to date, I'm sure you'll do it. Forget the rear end for now - it doesn't need to be done for TMac. Just finish the front... good work on tracking down suitable brake/clutch reservoirs, another useful datapoint for VFR Mods Inc. :thumbsup: (no, no - Lewis, Kevin, Rob - sit down).
I haven't seen all the pics (dial-up) but what I have seen is impressive. But why Convertibars, wouldn't stock 4th Gen bars work ok? Or F3/VTR bars, both are lower than 4th Gen and work ok with the tank.
I think the twin discreet headlights are a good idea (more wow factor! : )
I'm starting to have serious doubts as to wether or not it will be ready for TexasMac.
I haven't seen all the pics (dial-up) but what I have seen is impressive. But why Convertibars, wouldn't stock 4th Gen bars work ok? Or F3/VTR bars, both are lower than 4th Gen and work ok with the tank.
Well, when you go back and look at all the pictures of Niltons bike you'll notice that he has totally flat clip-ons that are really low as far as riding position goes. This would be ok for some riding, but I want to be able to raise the bars up into a position that is comfortable for a 3 hour trip(like TexasMac is going to be).
Update: I found new PIAA Driving Lights which are bullet shaped and are rated 55W=85watt and are Dichroic(two colors supposedly) and are recommended more as main driving lights than the ones I bought. They should also fit better/farther forward so that the lens will just stict out the openings giving the light pattern an unrestricted cone( 35 degree pattern).
The new SS braided longer clutch and brake lines should be in Wednesday as well.
I called Motionpro and Barnett about getting longer throttle cables and they both said, " Those years of VFR's are not in our database and you'll have to send them to us(both in California)." So I called my local Honda dealer and he referred me to another local M/C shop and the guy said no problem, bring them down Saturday morning and we'll make as long as you want them.
CBR Subframe should be here this week as well, then all hell will break loose fabricating things. :unsure:
OH new Micron Ultralight shorty pipe (240mm long) and weighs only 1 1/2 lbs. then I have to get with a good exhaust man to fit it up under the seat....I act like this is all going to happen before TexasMac.
Still haven't even decided what color to paint it ( if I even have time) so don't be suprised if I show up in gray primer. :o
Hobie1dogUpdate: I found new PIAA Driving Lights which are bullet shaped and are rated 55W=85watt and are Dichroic(two colors supposedly) and are recommended more as main driving lights than the ones I bought. They should also fit better/farther forward so that the lens will just stict out the openings giving the light pattern an unrestricted cone( 35 degree pattern).
The new SS braided longer clutch and brake lines should be in Wednesday as well.
I called Motionpro and Barnett about getting longer throttle cables and they both said, " Those years of VFR's are not in our database and you'll have to send them to us(both in California)." So I called my local Honda dealer and he referred me to another local M/C shop and the guy said no problem, bring them down Saturday morning and we'll make as long as you want them.
CBR Subframe should be here this week as well, then all hell will break loose fabricating things. :blink:
OH new Micron Ultralight shorty pipe (240mm long) and weighs only 1 1/2 lbs. then I have to get with a good exhaust man to fit it up under the seat....I act like this is all going to happen before TexasMac.
Still haven't even decided what color to paint it ( if I even have time) so don't be suprised if I show up in gray primer. :o
Seriously considering orange, myself. Won't be painted for a while longer, since cash will be running short. Hopefully my bike will be done by the end of the month. I want to ride SOOOOO bad! Anybody have an idea on how to fabricate something to fit over the rear of the instrument cluster - or better yet is anybody selling an instrument cluster? The back plastic piece from Honda costs $250 and mine was smashed in the accident, although the gauges still work as far as I know. I may just go with the Veypor unit, but I don't know how much it will cost to get it installed. It looks pretty simple from the various videos online, but I'm still not sure that it won't take hours to install. Any ideas will be much appreciated!
With your gauges still working, and already thinking how long it will take to install.. is it possible to make up your own dash, and slip your old gauges in, but give it a minimal look, something straight forward and racey.
These are the ones I just ordered. The rounded front will allow the actual reflector section to be less blocked and stick out further than the others I fitted.. I think it will be a big improvement. I guess it was good having someone say," Those are Fugly" :beer:
Yep, lack of parts (subframe, throttle cables, longer brake cables, etc) are holding him back, but once those are in I think things can get going pretty well. :thumbsup:
PS: My vote is to paint the bike a candy-ish blue in the middle of the main fairing with the same color tail section, a silver top 1/3 of the front fairing (above the vents) and silver tank.
Hobie1dogThese are the ones I just ordered. The rounded front will allow the actual reflector section to be less blocked and stick out further than the others I fitted.. I think it will be a big improvement. I guess it was good having someone say," Those are Fugly" +1.gif
I installed a set of these on my A4 as driving. I don't want to rain on your parade but they are going to piss off other drivers. They don't have any cutoff so the light spreads in every direction. They are also quite a bit more blue than I hoped they would be and in my opinion don't offer much extra visibility unless it's pitch black out. The real issue is that problem with cutoff. The DOT, or possibly the fuzz, will be real unhappy if they are your main driving lights as they are essentially unaimable.
I have considered putting them on my VFR for auxilliary driving lights, but I don't do much late night running.
YMMV, of course.
And keep up the good work - very interesting project. :thumbsup:
What are you doing here Marty? Have your son post the pics for you, get back to work! +1.gif
I'm feeling the crunch myself, I just got my spring on the rear shock swapped today, still need to do the fork seals and springs... and wetsand, and buff, and add the camera mount, and install a bunch of other little stuff, and, and, and... :beer:
Oh yeah, then I need to dial everything in and make sure its good... I'd like to do my shakedown run at home!
received the aluminum rear subframe off of a F4i today and held it up in place against the normal VFR mounting points and it was pretty close in alignment. But when I tried putting the solo tail piece on it , then it was evident that it would not work. The subframe sticks out past the solo tail piece about a foot and the solo tail won't even fit over top of the subframe. How you buy a solo tail and put it on a F4i is beyond my understanding. None of the mounting holes line up as well. So anyway the subframe will go back on Ebay where I bought it, and I'm going to fabricate my own subframe out of 3/4" aluminum square tubing. I was able to hold some pieces up in place under the solo tail with the seat held in place, and it looks fairly easy to line everything up. This weekend I'll cut the stock to the right lengths along with the cross braces needed to hold the battery box, muffler, and rear upper mounting points. It should also weigh 1/4 of what the F4i subframe weighs with it even being made out of aluminum. I remember vfroem telling that his RC30 subframe weighed 2.5 lbs
Anyway today I got intoduced to a really gifted welder/fabricator who works for one of the race car teams in the area, and he welded some stainless steel for me and it looked like it was painted on, really great quality, so he took an interest after I showed him pictures of Niltons bike and also of Phantoms undertail exhaust setup, and he said " cool, I'm ready".
13 days left till TexasMac....Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm :goofy:
Also spent an hour today at the PPG store looking through tons of paint chips trying to find the colors I want to paint the bike in. No luck so far, and it seems like such an easy thing to take a picture in and say, " You can match this one ...right? " Then they look at you funny and say, " Don't think I've every seen that particular color before on a car". :cool:
Got my new lights today too. I'll take some pics tomorrow.
Got the Convertibars on and the new longer throttle cables( 6 inches longer than stock) and the longer choke cable too. In my other post about getting longer cables made I told of going to an old(34 year old shop) and having all new cables made longer...the shop still had some of the original bolts, carbs, etc. laying in the tops of their toolboxes, and all over the workbenches, floors....it was a disaster....looked like a tornado went through there. Should have taken my camera again, but the guy seemed to do a good job on the cables.
Also installed the longer hydraulic hoses for the clutch and brake master cylinders. Russell brand ordered through the local Yamaha dealer ( 1 mile away) And I went ahead and installed the Russell SS brake line kit I bought on Ebay for .99 cents so that it would all match...also got the rear brake line out of SS in the same auction...got it installed too. Then installed the Goodridge Speed Bleeders on the 3 brake calipers and the clutch cylinder.
Found out that the best location for the oil cooler was on top of my bracket that I made to hold the new PIAA bullet driving lights. This was bracket number 4 for the lights. :blink: Anyway, they are in place and the oil cooler was not going to go down below as it was going to hit the fork tubes on full lock. I took the oil cooler hoses and removed them from the holders in front of the radiator so that they would have a lot more room to move around...this allowed me to place the oil cooler horizontal and also provided a place to put a RAM ball mount on the end of the screw that holds the oil cooler in place.
And here is a front end shot of the new lights in place. There is just enough room below the lights to lay the original bulbs in place and put amber colored lenses cut to fit in the space provided.
I got my 3rd Gen fuel tank in and it is mounted the same in the front of the tank, but the rear of the tank has a slightly longer mounting spot, so I will be making some aluminum plates to bolt on to the original holes and then have an alternate set of holes just rearward so that I can use the original bolt and rubber grommets/bushings
Just in case anyone was wondering, the VFR instrument panel will NOT FIT behind the F4i front fairing. The plastic surround for the panel was cracked on my bike anyway ($250 to replace just the freaking plastic), so I'm going with the Veypor VR2 as well ($280 shipped on ebay). Sorry I won't be able to post pics of my monster until its done, but I'm not the one working on it! I will, however, post pics of the 9" scar on my arm for those interested in seeing what you can get when you don't pay attention for a split second. Ride safe.
I wrecked the bike back in December. Don't remember anything that happened. Just went for a ride on Sunday morning and woke up in the MICU. Completely fractured humerus, 5 broken ribs, flail chest, hemothorax, and later found out I had 2 hairline fractures of my scapula. According to the police report, I lost control of the bike going around a corner and lowsided - the bike slid across the street, and I was getting to my knees to get out of the oncoming lane and a truck hit me. I don't think I was going very fast because I didn't even make it across the road with the bike. The road was "damp" but it was an otherwise warm, sunny day (60 degrees) - I find it hard to believe there wasn't some oil/sand/leaves/etc that didn't help.
Hence, I have an excuse to put F4i bodywork on my bike :rolleyes:
Oh, do you know if its "legal" to just run the Veypor unit without the stock gauges? I wasn't sure if there was some kind of rule that required a neutral light, etc. I'm guessing "no" because of all the cruisers out there with just a speedo, but I could be wrong.
Hobie1dog I would like to ask some questions & add some opinion if you don't mind.
Do you think the oil cooler will have an effective airflow across face with that set up?
I still don't like the lights that much but then again you would only see them front on, but some neat holes cut out with hole saw in front section would look much better with those lights. I would make a alloy insert to go into cut out hole & then have those round lights sticking through them (same type of look as 12v down lights in a ceiling).
Why have you used a gen3 tank, for better lines or does the rear tail your using line up better on it, I can understand doing it for a rc30 or 45 rep but for F4I I would think you would have to mod rear body work in a major way to fit any tank.
I think the little things are what make a bike look good & the instruments for me need to fill the inside of body work more due to ugly fibre look from body work & all the bkt's etc. I would lose the ram mount & make a fill panel to mount it on & fill that space, plastic, light alloy sheet, etc.
Also I'm a bit lot on the differance between thr F4I tail sections, I will have to go with the pillion seat set up (wife has decided coming for rides as a pillion is a good idea again doh) so might look for a complete rear, do you have any idea what year model may graft in best when looking at subframe you have?
I have a 05 R1 front end on it's way to me so the parts gathering for me is starting to happen :-)
Keep up the good work & keep the posts coming :thumbsup:
zRoYzHobie1dog I would like to ask some questions & add some opinion if you don't mind.
Do you think the oil cooler will have an effective airflow across face with that set up?
I still don't like the lights that much but then again you would only see them front on, but some neat holes cut out with hole saw in front section would look much better with those lights. I would make a alloy insert to go into cut out hole & then have those round lights sticking through them (same type of look as 12v down lights in a ceiling).
Why have you used a gen3 tank, for better lines or does the rear tail your using line up better on it, I can understand doing it for a rc30 or 45 rep but for F4I I would think you would have to mod rear body work in a major way to fit any tank.
I think the little things are what make a bike look good & the instruments for me need to fill the inside of body work more due to ugly fibre look from body work & all the bkt's etc. I would lose the ram mount & make a fill panel to mount it on & fill that space, plastic, light alloy sheet, etc.
Also I'm a bit lot on the differance between thr F4I tail sections, I will have to go with the pillion seat set up (wife has decided coming for rides as a pillion is a good idea again doh) so might look for a complete rear, do you have any idea what year model may graft in best when looking at subframe you have?
I have a 05 R1 front end on it's way to me so the parts gathering for me is starting to happen :-)
Keep up the good work & keep the posts coming :thumbsup:
Thaks for the input and ideas you bring forth. Tha oil cooler should have good air flow coming up from the front vents and with the natural thermodynamics, the heat should flow right up thru the fins. As long as the oil pump keeps a good flow I do not forsee any problems.
I have looked at different ways to do the lights and for now,I like them being hidden and not messing up the smooth bodywork up on top. I do like the twin headlamp setup of the RC45's and such.
The 3rd Gen tank looks better to me, I don't like the big humpback whale design of the 4th Gen bikes, I like the older flat top race bike look.....like most older Yamaha tanks have to them. I will eventually take a mold off of the bottom of the tank and carve out a new top of my own design out of foam and make my own tank out of fiberglas.
Also planning on filling the space up front inside the cowl with decorative cover plates. I may not get that done in time....only 8 days left to do a crap load of work.
If you want to take a pillion the stock f4i rear bodywork would be the way to go. I just don't do passengers at all. Don't like driving with them on the back or the responsibility of them.
you are right about about the oil cooler.. i wrecked once and cut it out and put a 5 inch brass tube in place,, the temp hardly changed..
you may have enough room in the "7" air vents foor another head light..an oblong pair like you you had a pic off.. get them for 20 bucks or so and run 4 head lights.. as those lights you have are not very good.. (had some an a cheap rc 30 wanna be)...
or you can can some black mesh and fill in the gap arould the lights..
Working late, taking off work tomorrow to spend all day working on the bike. I have the main subframe put together and will take the bike in the trailer up to the TIG welders shop so that he can weld some of the subframe that I have held together with bolts (temporarily) and to fabricate the SS exhaust tubing to the new Micron Shorty 240 mm can which will go up under the tail.
This is a shot of the initial mockup of the subframe
On forks, RC51 stuff has gone through the roof since I did my VTEC. I wanted forks for my 750 & loking at the phantoms write up & doing measurements on how I like bike set up 05 R1 front end will still let me mount clipons above top triple clamp & bonus radial brakes.
The late model R1 stuff is also hard to obtain as not many sets come up on Ebay, but GSXR750 forks seem to be cheaper & lots more than everything else so if using low mount clipons then they might be a good option for $$.
douglasthecookIf possible when you get time, could you please take pics of your rear subframe with the rear cowl off, and then a pic or two with the rear cowl on. i'm quite curious to see the new subframe. It looks really good so far. Are you going to relocate the R/R from the rear subframe to a different location? It looks like your making some really good progress!!!
6 days left on the project....tomorrow I'm back at the welders so that all the rest of the subframe braces can be put in.
Today he fabbed up a new exhaust piece that goes from the stock exhaust to the undertail exhaust muffler. He cut off the cone on the original muffler and welded it to a SS piece of tubing and then just went from there on up....made it look really easy and didn't take much time either. I'll post some pics up tomorrow of it in place, as he still is going to cut off the muffler exhaust tip flush with the muffler and rotate it 90 degrees so that the muffler will lay on it's side(it's oval shaped) taking up less space under the seat.
Now that Chris posted up about getting his 04-06 Yamaha R1 R/R wired up, I will look for one on Ebay and will want to re-locate it up on the front of the bike more than likely in a path of good air flow. It just doesn't make sense to put it up under a seat.
Got the brakes front and rear bled finally( Thanks Sebastian for the tip ) and clutch line too.
Will go back to the fab shop tomorrow and have him weld up the new battery box. Also stop by the bolt place and pick up some proper bolts for a few things.
Hobie1dog4 more days till TexasMac. <_< :blink: :o
Man, don't rush it just to make the ride. If for nothing else, you need some good shakedown runs to sort everything out. I wouldn't want the maiden voyage to be on a large group ride. Trailer it to show everyone your progress and ride that stinky IL4 instead.
One serious Viffer tourer told me to never do major repairs within a month of leaving. This is really great advice that I didn't heed when I changed out the clutch on my SuperHawk and broke the water pump impeller shaft during reinstallation. Lots of stress and money spent to get parts overnighted to make the group ride plus no good long local test runs to make sure the clutch and waterpump repairs were good.
I know you're in NC so it's not really a trip for you but I mention this for others.
Thanks for the positive comments, it's starting to wear me down big time, but I'm just checking things off of the list one-by-one.
I'm gonna take Sebastians advice and just get the thing running so I will be showing up(if everything else goes ok)at the TexasMac meet in gray primer just like the last photos I submitted.
Sebastian bailed me out as I was getting ready to throw in the towel after fighting bleeding the front brakes for 1 hour with no success. A quick phone call to him and WHALLAH ! success. :thumbsup:
Hobie1dogThanks for the positive comments, it's starting to wear me down big time, but I'm just checking things off of the list one-by-one.
I'm gonna take Sebastians advice and just get the thing running so I will be showing up(if everything else goes ok)at the TexasMac meet in gray primer just like the last photos I submitted.
Sebastian bailed me out as I was getting ready to throw in the towel after fighting bleeding the front brakes for 1 hour with no success. A quick phone call to him and WHALLAH ! success. :thumbsup:
Back to work.
Marty:
What are your plans for painting? I couldn't find an upper F4i fairing I liked on ebay, and just decided to go with the new aftermarket one offered by the local shop, which they claim is high quality - I didn't check it out personally, but it has all the mounting brackets, etc, and they say it will fit well. So I'll be riding the primer gray, myself, until I'm able to get it finished. Also, if anybody has a good reference for painting near Cleveland Heights, OH, (or has the experience to do it themselves $$), I'm all ears!
ElectrodynamicHey, we took a movie of the VFR fired up and it sounds MEAN!! If anyone wants to host it we'll email it to you. Just email me (phdinsubs@yahoo.com) or my dad (martylemons@yahoo.com) and we'll send you the movie!
The Vapor gauge is going to be difficult to say the least. We've got it wired up but haven't gotten the tach to work yet...but we will. Tonight time is running thin. We'll hit it hard tomorow after work.
Apologies in advance to BaileyRock as I know he doesn't like loud exhaust, but there is another secondary exhaust in the planning stages that will be located directly behind the Micron shorty which will go into two side-by-side tailpipes/mufflers which my fabricator and I are conjuring up. :P
SEBSPEEDSorry to distract you, but I'm curious to know what you'll be using for a taillight? Hmm... the possibilities... :salesman:
Go to this site, it's the one on the bottom 6 inches wide ............. guy said it was very bright for a tail light and superbright for the brake light section.
well, it's back together...is it finished? NOPE far from it but I will take it to get inspected tomorrow and then hopefully leave for the 4 hour or so drive up to Robbinsville....after sitting on the CBR seat for 15 minutes or so, I am now painfully aware that it leaves alot to be desired. I had planned on replacing the foam on the plastic base before I left, but just didn't have time. So when I get back, I have to paint everything and re-do a seat. And I will be getting back with my fabricator to make a secondary exhaust (dual tips) to help quieten it down just a tad. :unsure:
For anyone thinking about doing this conversion, remember, you are giving up comfort in the riding position overall. I know I can improve on several things such as the seat, the master cylinders are both too da%^&med big...the brake master cylinder I just found is less than half of the stock one and doesn't stick above the bar bolts, the VFR one sticks up 1 full inch above the bolts causing a major interference with the windshield. So I should be able to solve that problem once I get the new one installed...also found a different clutch master cylinder setup as well.
How much have I shaved off in weight? DUNNO YET. When I get back I will total up everything. From the tank back, the new subframe seat and exhaust and solo tail shaved off approximately 30lbs.
I'm making a little progress in my conversion, but waiting on a few more parts that needed to be replaced because of the accident. At least its running now and the front forks are on (thanks Don - I couldn't have done this without your help!). Starting to look more like a bike again. Marty: I want your rear end!! That doesn't sound right, butt you know what I mean. :rolleyes:
Sesand COOL........lets see pictures of how you mounted your front fairing stay.
Well, we just got back from the meet and boy did the bike ever feel like a completely different m/c ......all I had to do was lean and it just fell over into the corners with little countersteering as ever before.
I will be continuing ahead with the modifications as the CBR stock solo seat. ....SUCKS :beer: <_< sad.gif
That is what I did as soon as I got off the bike from the TexasMac Meet....stripped off the cover and tore off all the foam from the stock seat base. The stock CBR seat pan is raised throughout the middle section and the two outer ridges have very little padding therefore creating two severe pressure points which will rip your #SS apart and make you never ever want to swing a leg over the bike again. So I will most likely just make a new seat base out of flat aluminum so that I can put down a base of dense foam(about 1/2" thick) and then take the Visco Memory Foam and shape it to the style I want. That should lower the seat over an inch itself.......gg2wheel4me got on the bike and said, "This is like a motocross bike" My group ride leader sat on the bike after our first days ride and said, OH GOD, how did you stand to be on this all day?"
This is the battery box fabricated out of aluminum which straddles the top of the box subframe.
I'll post pics when its done. Hopefully that will be sometime this week, but I won't be making any promises. At least work keeps me occupied during the day, but when I get home, all I think about is riding. Since I can't afford the $800 to have the local bike shop paint it, and I don't have the space or money to even afford to do it myself (the right way), I'm going to try to spray paint the upper and lowers myself using Duplicolor aerosols. I went to Advance Autoparts and bought some Duplicolor sandable primer, black gloss enamel, and a clear coat along with some other miscellaneous supplies, and spent about $50. I figure I should be able to do a decent job without totally trashing it. I'll be satisfied with "ok" for a couple of years. My sole painting experience was for a subwoofer box I installed in my Firebird, which actually did turn out cool until the scratches began to accumulate from moving it around and pulling stuff in and out of the trunk - so any advice is welcome! If there is anybody close to 44106 who would has some equipment and experience doing this "the right way," and wouldn't mind helping me out, I'm game!
FLsurferHobie I haven't responded to this thread but have been checking almost every day for new progress.
This is an awesome build. I love the documentation you have selflessly done for us.
I would love to do something similar with my '97, but I realize I don't have the skills.
Thanks and when things get frustrating, remember you have alot of people out here wishing you the best.
Where does the line form for your first contract build when you finish this one? :D
Thanks for your support. I hate to tell you, but......this project may go on for some time as I am looking into putting GSXR or R1 forks on it this summer as well as different wheels front and back. I will be making upper fairing supports this week as I found out that without them, the wind pushes the upper cowl back so far that the windscreen is flattened back against the clutch and brake master cylinders(at speeds above 85 or so). <_< My new brake master cylinder will take care of a lot of the clearance issues as it is 1/2 the size of the big stock unit, much lower profile(is flush with the top bar mounting bolt. I'll post up pics for comparison when I get it.
Good news is...... when we find a 3rd or 4th Gen bike for Electrodynamic, I will be making multiple brackets necessary for the conversion. It's just as easy to go ahead and make 3 extra brackets while you have all the dimensions fresh and the tools out as well. :thumbsup: So I may be able to offer to the VFRD members a "conversion KIT" one day.
Hobie1dogThanks for your support. I hate to tell you, but......this project may go on for some time as I am looking into putting GSXR or R1 forks on it this summer as well as different wheels front and back. I will be making upper fairing supports this week as I found out that without them, the wind pushes the upper cowl back so far that the windscreen is flattened back against the clutch and brake master cylinders(at speeds above 85 or so). <_< My new brake master cylinder will take care of a lot of the clearance issues as it is 1/2 the size of the big stock unit, much lower profile(is flush with the top bar mounting bolt. I'll post up pics for comparison when I get it.
Good news is...... when we find a 3rd or 4th Gen bike for Electrodynamic, I will be making multiple brackets necessary for the conversion. It's just as easy to go ahead and make 3 extra brackets while you have all the dimensions fresh and the tools out as well. :thumbsup: So I may be able to offer to the VFRD members a "conversion KIT" one day.
Hi Guys,
I'm new to this forum so please excuse me if I've put this reply in the wrong place. It seems there is a huge amount of talent and advice in this forum.
This project is great - I'm very close to buying a '97 VFR750 but am having second thoughts. I've test ridden several bikes and they are miles ahead of my trusty '83VF750F, and I'm addicted to the V4 rumble now. However I'm up and down on the look of the gen 4. The NR750 it was based on is beautiful in the way the Ducati 916 is, but the styling seems to have got quite a bit busier on the way to the production 4th gen.
A lot of waffle, sorry. It seems no one makes a replica NR750 body kit, so my next option is an RC45 kit. I love those twin round headlights! Brings back memories of all of those legendary endurance racers!
Does anyone have any experience dealing with them? I will give them a call tomorrow (I'm in Australia) to ask about fitment, windscreens, instruments and so on, but before I mail $700 (in real money) to them I'd be re-assured by experience from a forum member.
Also, in advance, if anyone thinks this is a good/crap idea please let me know - due to the usual $/family constraints it won't happen overnight, especially when the cost of a paint job is thrown in. Plus any advice would be appreciated. And of course if it's be done before please excuse me and provide a link if possible.
Hi Neil, welcome to the forum. IIRC the Airtech gear is not the most asethetically pleasing bodywork around - it's pretty much raceglass - although I suppose there's very little out there that's going to be comparable to the OEM bodywork for quality.
Hobie1dogNeil: Welcome to the forum. Adapting ove rhe RC45 bodywork from Airtech shouldn't be a big hassle, and for what you can sell all your good VFR stock bodywork for, it should definitely pay for the new fiberglas.
Post up pics for us from time to time. Hey, post up a pic of you and your bike now. :thumbsup:
Thanks Hobie,
Your project is a "pearler" as we say here in Oz!
I've done a search and found a lovely RC45/4 gen replica posted by vfroem, and replied to his post on that thread.
There was a post in "Body and Paint" but I couldn't open it for some reason - perhaps it is too old?
I will post a photo of my beloved '83 when I work out how!
Hi Neil, welcome to the forum. IIRC the Airtech gear is not the most asethetically pleasing bodywork around - it's pretty much raceglass - although I suppose there's very little out there that's going to be comparable to the OEM bodywork for quality.
Many thanks Phantom, I appreciate the advice regarding Airtech. I've emailed Thurn them for more info. I will start a new thread to ask a few more questions.
On the Tyga RC211V body work for the NC30-35, I PRESUME it will fit the 94-97 VFR frame (no "Air Duct"). Or at least we will find out soon.
Larry
VFRrider
Sorry, Marty. I knew it would be a bad idea to bring this up smile.gif
Larry: let me know if it works. I won't be "changing horses in the middle of the stream" on the F4i project, but I may try something crazy later. Nothing like coming up with new ideas I can't use!
Foto: Nice work - I'm joining the other thread, now, too smile.gif
Why couldn't you guys do all these conversions last year so I could just follow along instead of learning the hard way (worse yet, paying someone else to do it)???
Hey, No Problem....I think it's a good idea to snoop around and look at all the different fiberglas pieces that we can end up putting on our bikes. I am already looking a alternate rear tail sections to use. I think Sharkskinz fiberglas makes ones like the MV Augusta tail section, that would look cool.
The guy on here that posted about pictures from the Tokyo M/C show , had a great fiberglas front and rear sections called APE bodywork which looks better than the CBR stuff. This just gives us new ideas. :thumbsup:
I'm sure I'll be selling the complete rear section to put on something different within the next year.
sesandDo you guys ever ride or just fiddle with mods all the time? Sheesh! wink.gif
Post some pics of your new speedo, Marty! I may end up with the same one if I like it enough!
Is there a website for the APE bodywork? The one I found just has their performance parts, or else I can't find the plastic link.
Well, I did ride close to 1000 miles last weekend total at the TexasMac event.
I took pictures of my new speedo, but I just developed problems on my home PC (bad power supply I think) so as soon as I get those issues resolved, then I'll be able to put up some pictures of it in action.
I didn't have any luck finding the APE bodywork either. Can you post up the link to their website?
Good news! The bike is expected to be done by this weekend. Unfortunately its taken some more time because the headlights on the F4i are H7's whereas the VFR has goofy versions of the H4. I was hoping I could just install a shim and throw some H4s in there, but apparently they are too big, so now more playing with wires will be required.
Bad news! I probably won't be able to pick it up because my riding buddy will be graduating, and he's the only one crazy enough to drive me out there and (possibly) help me ride it back in case my shoulder starts to hurt! Hmmm, maybe if I ride my bicycle.....
I've waited 5 months to ride, perhaps it won't hurt to wait a little longer.
:beer: Sure I ride, its just been.... forgot how long.
I'll get right on that, right after the Beast gets new clothes, and that cool license plate frame, and got the frame for the RC211V replica, so it will be...
Soon, before I kill something.
Keep us in the loop on the F4 conversion, and the RC45 look too. That should be easier.
In lieu of feeling sorry for myself because the bike isn't done, I went to the shop and picked up my plastic so I could make some progress, and because I'm too vain to ride my bike home partially unpainted :goofy:
Needless to say, my first time painting didn't yield the best results, but I'm satisfied considering I did the whole thing in about 4 hours (most of which was spent removing rashed F4i stickers). I also got a little lazy on using filler primer for the larger scratches, which, in hindsight, I probaby should have used. Probably could have used a third bottle of spray paint, too. It also would have been better to use the Duplicolor adhesion promotor instead of the sandable primer, although I'm not too worried because I didn't sand off all the old paint. Where's the rewind button?? Anyways, the upper looks pretty good, mostly because I didn't have to mess with it - just primed and painted it.
Without further adieu:
From this (freaking rashed stickers took forever to remove - especially on the right fairing where the guy Bondo'ed over the sticker to repair one of the screw holes :pissed: Oh, and Bondo doesn't sand well at all, or I would have been able to level it out). I guess for the price I paid for the fairings, I shouldn't complain:
#1 hard drive in my PC crashed so I lost all ability to post any pictures until I get it fixed.
#2 I sold the bike to my son...Electrodynamic ...never ceases to amaze me the things you do for your kids ....We will post up pictures of the undertail and of the final paint job.
Now, I have been looking far and wide with no sucess to find another VFR to do another drastic modification to. I have ideas on using a different tail section but think that I will stick with the F4i front end as easy as it is to convert over. I have been looking over different front body kits but none seem to look as if they will fit as easily as the F4i. I initially looked at the bodywork kit for the Ducati 1098. I'm still snooping around. I called APE racing and they said they do not make any bodywork, so the picture from the Tokyo bike show is something completely different.
Anyway, the search continues.....there isn't a 3rd or 4th Gen bike within a 1000miles of here that hasn't been sold already. Every listing I've called about is SOLD. Looks like the old Viffers are still a hot commodity. :thumbsup:
sesandIf you buy it for cheap enough, you won't have to sell the bodywork to fund the project! Although there is no telling what the guy's reserve is....
Bikeless, eh? You should have kept it until you found another one!
Well, my son's friend who is buying his CBR600 is getting anxious to get it and ride it, so this way both of them can get the bikes they want.....I'm old now anyway.....have a little more patience than those young, snot-nosed, know-it-all whipper-snappers. :goofy:
The old saying, "If it's a good deal today, it'll be a better deal tomorrow". All the old VFR's are going gradually down in price as they naturally do, and since I like the 3rd and 4th Gen bikes the best, I just need to wait around until the right deal comes up. People are crashing bikes as we speak. Everytime you get in a hurry, you lose money.
sesandIs she painted yet or still in primer? Post pics please!
Still in primer, but have chosen the colors......blue and silver like the new cbr600rr models....now have to strip the red paint off of the stock 97 gas tank and prep it before we can shoot the paint on everything.
Also still need to find a dual outlet exhaust tip so that the undertail piece can be cut out for the exhaust opening.
I think Nick might try some stock bars back on it and end up taking the Convertibars off of it. He likes a lower handlebar position than I do...young whippersnappers. +1.gif
Boy, everyone at the last Ride on the Ridge event I went to, loved the small PIAA driving lights I have in the vents. They all commented on how nice it was to look back in the mirrors and have no doubt as to where I was in the group.
I had several people say that I should have decals made up that say VCR on it. +1.gif
I had alot of positive comments on the sound of the exhaust on it too. I've grown to really like the sound of it. I called today to find out if I could still get the same deal on the Micron 240mm Shorty Ultralight Titanium muffler.
It would also fit nicely up under my 93 I'm getting and then expose that nice 8 spoke wheel and remove 13lbs of weight in the process too. :thumbsup:
Veypor VR2 dash. Its so freaking tiny - I think the bike lost about 10lbs just replacing the gauges. Check out the neutral and oil dummy lights (JB's personal touch)!
DonnyBallGameLooking good Sesand. Nice to see it back together and better than before.
Thank you again for your forks and front fender! Worked like a charm, and don't seem too bad even though I thought you had a good number of miles on them. Still trying to give away your triple tree and calipers to somebody since I didn't need them, but apparently there isn't anybody who needs them. :unsure:
May I also direct your attention to my silly question about brake pedal height adjustment - seems like mystery to me. All help welcome smile.gif
A few things I've noticed since riding again, now with the new F4i bodywork on it:
1. I remembered the bike being fast, but it seems to really move now. Weight savings are probably playing a huge part (although I doubt I cut more than 20-30 lbs or so).
2. Heat from the engine is increased - probably because the grills on the F4i plastic are larger and allow more heat dissipation. Better for engine cooling, better for cold rides, not so good in the heat.
3. The Veypor unit rocks, and I haven't played with most of the extra functions. Haven't tested it in the rain and know nothing about long-term reliability, but it has all the tools so far.
4. I'll say it again, the Veypor unit rocks.
5. Coolmax compression shirts help a lot with #2 above. I received them in the mail on a couple days ago, and basically tested one out all day today with my Hein Gericke mesh jacket. If you don't mind looking like a sausage, they're worth it - like having an air conditioner in your jacket. We were stuck in line at a sobriety check point this afternoon for about 10 minutes. It was about 75 degrees, but with all the gear on I didn't even break a sweat (of course it helped I hadn't been drinking :goofy:).
6. I'm totally addicted to riding. The acceleration, the twisties, the sound of the V4, the sound of the V4, and the sound of the V4.
7. Nobody sees black bikes. They had trouble with the red, but it made a difference. Two cages pulled out in front of me today, once even when I was following Dirtydizzogg in relatively close riding formation. The guy looked right through me, and then pulled out. I may have to move the Stebel Nautilus up on the shopping list.
This is the bike now. We have to make the side decorative fill panels near the seat and gas tank area, swap back over the 4th Gen gas tank which Nick likes better, and get another stock F4i seat(which he likes better), and the put the undertail panel in. Then we can take things back off and paint it finally.
Dad and I just installed the Vapor Trail gauge a little bit ago and MAN it looks great! It took us the greater part of 5 hours to install, but that included numerous trips to the local autoparts store to make the temperature sensor integrate with the factory piping and wiring up for future bar-end turn signals.
After seeing Sebastian's bike I almost want to paint it glossy white. smile.gif I'm sticking with my gut though, I'm going to paint it flat white. It will be the whitest white, no color additives at all. The whitest whites are (naturally) Mercades white and Lamborghini white, so I'm going to skip all of the massive cost associated with those paints (because they are for those particular brands of cars) and go with solid white.
We are going to prep the '97 tank before we take the other panels into the spray booth so we can spray it all at once and then put the '97 tank back on the bike. I liked the '97 tank a LOT better when it was on the bike, even though it was red. The '97 tank just has a much smoother look to it, which I think will finish off the bike nicely.
Wow, I think this is the longest post I've ever made on this forum. Yay me! :unsure:
A summary of parts purchased for the project, for those of you thinking about jumping on this (not including radiator and forks, which I was also fortunate enough to need to replace):
F4i Fairing Bracket $48 (new)
F4i Mirror Bracket $84 (new)
F4i headlight $200 (used)
F4i Windshield - Lockhart Speedscreen V2 $70
F4i aftermarket Targa upper $300
F4i lowers $240 (ebay, used)
F4i Front V-fairing $20 (used)
F4i Ram air covers (2) $30
F4i Intake scoops $20
F4i Wiring harness $51
F4i Left hand bar switch $36
flushmount turn signals $23
Veypor speedo/tach $288 (ebay)
Total = 1410
This isn't terrible considering you will probably pay more to replace all this with stock parts (even used). Plus, I think it looks a million times better, although it could still use some NACA ducts :goofy: The more I think about it, I'll probably leave my rear end the way it is and just have the whole thing painted red to finalize the project. Well, after SS brake lines, shift kit, RaceTech springs and Gold valve kit, voltmeter, rim stripes, and Tankslapper are installed, it will be finished!
Would you hate me if I told you that I just bought a brand new set of race glass for $250? :goofy:
Paint cost was $50, I just used the rattle cans since it only needs to last for the next year or so. The price quote from the local guy was $800 to repaint the whole bike whatever color I wanted, which I can't really afford right now. All in all, it looks decent and hasn't faded or cracked anywhere (yet) after about 2k miles. The pics were before I waxed and polished it, so it shines a little more now. When I get the above mods installed, I'll take some more pics.
Race glass is usually cheaper because it doesn't have mounting brackets/holes. I was looking on ebay at a set of plastic for about that price but decided it wasn't worth the extra modification needed. The race glass needs to be modified to fit underneath the bike (see Marty's earlier post), something I wasn't going to do myself or pay someone to do. I like my centerstand where it is, and I'd rather spend my few minutes of free time riding :thumbsup:
The last post was from me.. I was commenting on sesand's bike. I love the way it looks. I also had a question. I am wanting to do a very similar mod. I was curious if i could use the tail section from an F-4 that has the 2 person seating..The one where the passenger not on the same seat..Wondering if that would be a possibility at all.
codynavyguyThe last post was from me.. I was commenting on sesand's bike. I love the way it looks. I also had a question. I am wanting to do a very similar mod. I was curious if i could use the tail section from an F-4 that has the 2 person seating..The one where the passenger not on the same seat..Wondering if that would be a possibility at all.
Sorry I killed your post and thanks for re-posting it! :thumbsup:
codynavyguyThe last post was from me.. I was commenting on sesand's bike. I love the way it looks. I also had a question. I am wanting to do a very similar mod. I was curious if i could use the tail section from an F-4 that has the 2 person seating..The one where the passenger not on the same seat..Wondering if that would be a possibility at all.
Yes, just time and money. I have neither, so WYSIWYG <_<
I think I fixed all my missing pictures....sorry about that for those who were looking for them.
Nick still has the bike, but we will likely respray it white again and this time put gloss on top instead of the flat topcoat. For those considering this, it sucks big time.....every fingerprint shoes up and looks dirty all the time.....live and learn.
So what are you riding at TexasMac '08, Marty? Will we see the custom VFR?
BTW, I'm really looking forward to seeing ya there. I won't make ROTR this year due to coaching my younger son's baseball team. (Season starts 5/5/08 - just after T-Mac.)
So how many VFRd members do we have in ''The Heights'' now?? Nice to see some folks represent. They raise the speed limit there yet or what, its like 25 or 30 MPH everywhere there.
Next week we are starting on making some side panels to fill in below the gas tank and seat area....stay tuned, will post plenty of pics. also will be respraying it in white gloss too.
Excellent job! I think (like anybody cares, lol) that the lower would look better with a flatter gp style bottom rather than the rounded F4. However, its not mine and you did a fabulous job without my help anyway!!!
The bike is almost finished. I know it's been a LONG time since there has been any update on this bike, but it's making bounds of progress now. I'll post pictures of it tonight after I get done running errands.
there are some new pictures from my ex original exaust. The only reason to modify the original is that it is not attracting the attention of the po....
the new ex is perfect, no spot on 6000rpm, top end reached very fast, great sound.
the rest of the space is filled up with glass wool or mineral wool - both work OK
some one mention the original instruments are not fiting, actualy they fit OK and the instrument support frame as well, just the upper two metal parts keeping the mirrors are removed, new are wellded in a different angle, so it fit the new fairing
I am not too sure about the position of the oil cooler as it might get hit by a rock or something. Did you have to relocate the cooler, and why use one double the size of the orginal?
Hey guys, I know it's been a long time since anything has been posted on our bike. We got the bike painted 1993 VFR white and finally got the CF beauty panels made. The headlights work REALLY well, as you can see in the pictures. The bike runs great and still sounds like a supercharged small block. smile.gif Here are some pictures I've taken over the past year or so:
Seriously inspirational job you have done there. Did you have do do anything special to use the Dzus fastners like installing new Dzus rails? did you have to buy rails for them? I kind of want to take on a rc36 to rc30 conversion and your page has given me some drive to get it done! Of course with the red white blue paintjob.
It may be time for me to follow in Marty's footsteps as well. Just picked up a '96 that has no bodywork, and still have my F4i track plastic in the upstairs of my garage... :wheel:
How do you like the Vaypor gauges? Were they hard to wire in and get working? There were a few here that tried to install the Koso gauges(I was also going to attempt this), but went with CBR 1000RR Gauges instead.
well what a awsme bike hobby, fanstastic job, this is almost meking me bin my rc45 farings and go for the cbr i like alot the white very nice. indeed. is the tail just a standrd f4i single? no real dramas puting it on ??
also may be able to answer above post " the cook" the vepor tech dash ive also got one of these bad boys fantastic unit all the bells n whistles took around a couple of hours to install with all the sencors n stuff nice and clean at night ,
hi everyone, im fairly new to bike riding, and i just got my first viffer...looking at bikes and ran accross this site, i got my bike for a steal, my buddy wanted to upgrade and was short on cash and sold me his viffer with all front fairings messed up from his laydown, ive taken off the plastics except the top one that holds the headlights, im trying to read up on how to make my vfr 750 look like a cbr f4i or 600rr and what all is needed to make the transition...anyone with advise or help email me please...thanks
hi everyone, im fairly new to bike riding, and i just got my first viffer...looking at bikes and ran accross this site, i got my bike for a steal, my buddy wanted to upgrade and was short on cash and sold me his viffer with all front fairings messed up from his laydown, ive taken off the plastics except the top one that holds the headlights, im trying to read up on how to make my vfr 750 look like a cbr f4i or 600rr and what all is needed to make the transition...anyone with advise or help email me please...thanks
Start at the beginning of this thread and you will see how to transform it to look just like the F4i. It was not that hard.
How do you like the Vaypor gauges? Were they hard to wire in and get working? There were a few here that tried to install the Koso gauges(I was also going to attempt this), but went with CBR 1000RR Gauges instead.
The Veypor is stupid silly easy to install and wire up. calibration takes a couple trips down the street while pushing buttons, but nothing major. It is extremely lightweight...I think it saved me about 5 1/2 pounds of weight and that is on the very top of the bike. Shaving the 65 pounds off the bike transformed it into a great handling bike, doesn't even feel like a VFR
It may be time for me to follow in Marty's footsteps as well. Just picked up a '96 that has no bodywork, and still have my F4i track plastic in the upstairs of my garage... :laugh:
With your fabrication skills, the only thing stopping you is the other 5 bike projects you have going on at the same time. tongue.gif
Seriously inspirational job you have done there. Did you have do do anything special to use the Dzus fastners like installing new Dzus rails? did you have to buy rails for them?
The race bodywork kit has the holes already in it for the Dzus fasteners, so all you have to do is rivet the fasteners into the bodywork, and WALLAH....done.
It may be time for me to follow in Marty's footsteps as well. Just picked up a '96 that has no bodywork, and still have my F4i track plastic in the upstairs of my garage... :goofy:
With your fabrication skills, the only thing stopping you is the other 5 bike projects you have going on at the same time. tongue.gif
Ain't that the truth! I spoke too soon anyway - I got another 96 that's getting stock stuff and the first one is getting streetfighter naked treatment. :biggrin:
It may be time for me to follow in Marty's footsteps as well. Just picked up a '96 that has no bodywork, and still have my F4i track plastic in the upstairs of my garage... :goofy:
With your fabrication skills, the only thing stopping you is the other 5 bike projects you have going on at the same time. tongue.gif
Ain't that the truth! I spoke too soon anyway - I got another 96 that's getting stock stuff and the first one is getting streetfighter naked treatment. :fing02:
Where in the world are you getting all this money to buy bike after bike? I envy guys like you who only have 1 hobby to devote all their money to. You're my hero. :ph34r: tongue.gif
Where in the world are you getting all this money to buy bike after bike? I envy guys like you who only have 1 hobby to devote all their money to. You're my hero. :biggrin: tongue.gif
That's easy - it didn't take a lot of money. I got very lucky - twice! :beer:
Where in the world are you getting all this money to buy bike after bike? I envy guys like you who only have 1 hobby to devote all their money to. You're my hero. :biggrin: tongue.gif
That's easy - it didn't take a lot of money. I got very lucky - twice! :beer:
Hell, then lets start playing the lottery together. :beer:
I can take more videos of the exhaust once I get the bike back. I'm getting new fork springs, fork oil, chain, sprockets, and tires (Pilot Power in the rear and Pilot Power 2ct up front) installed this week. :cheerleader:
Nice job. The thing I will probably go for is the F4i seat on a 94 frame I have. I have a Yosh pipe on my running 92 that sounds very close to the Micron.
I seriously admire the dedication and the workmanship that has gone into this project, but I have to ask myself, why? Why would you want to junk the very distinctive and attractive 4th Gen bodywork and turn the bike into one that looks like every other sportsbike on the road? To me, it just doesn't make sense.
I seriously admire the dedication and the workmanship that has gone into this project, but I have to ask myself, why? Why would you want to junk the very distinctive and attractive 4th Gen bodywork and turn the bike into one that looks like every other sportsbike on the road? To me, it just doesn't make sense.
Probably because they either wrecked the bike, or bought it as a wreck, and 1994 vintage bodywork is getting harder and harder to find?
I seriously admire the dedication and the workmanship that has gone into this project, but I have to ask myself, why? Why would you want to junk the very distinctive and attractive 4th Gen bodywork and turn the bike into one that looks like every other sportsbike on the road? To me, it just doesn't make sense.
Probably because they either wrecked the bike, or bought it as a wreck, and 1994 vintage bodywork is getting harder and harder to find?
Or the pursuit of making the bike lighter. Stock bodywork on the 4th gen weighs a ton!
I seriously admire the dedication and the workmanship that has gone into this project, but I have to ask myself, why? Why would you want to junk the very distinctive and attractive 4th Gen bodywork and turn the bike into one that looks like every other sportsbike on the road? To me, it just doesn't make sense.
Probably because they either wrecked the bike, or bought it as a wreck, and 1994 vintage bodywork is getting harder and harder to find?
I can certainly understand that having had to source some bodywork recently.
I seriously admire the dedication and the workmanship that has gone into this project, but I have to ask myself, why? Why would you want to junk the very distinctive and attractive 4th Gen bodywork and turn the bike into one that looks like every other sportsbike on the road? To me, it just doesn't make sense.
We didn't buy the bike wrecked. The bike was perfect and had 6k miles on it when my dad purchased it. At one point or another we both laid the bike down on the same side, so after a while we started sourcing body panels for it. And while sourcing panels, we decided to get rid of all that weight and transform the look of the bike too. The weight reduction idea started with the all-in-one gauge and it exploded from there. In the end we took off close to 70 lbs from stock trim (most of it was reduced up top, which makes a huge improvement in the handling). I also don't think it looks like "every other sportsbike" either. Single sided swingarm, hidden lights, solid paint job, and lets not forget the sound! :) It handles great and sounds like no other sports bike out there.
I seriously admire the dedication and the workmanship that has gone into this project, but I have to ask myself, why? Why would you want to junk the very distinctive and attractive 4th Gen bodywork and turn the bike into one that looks like every other sportsbike on the road? To me, it just doesn't make sense.
We didn't buy the bike wrecked. The bike was perfect and had 6k miles on it when my dad purchased it. At one point or another we both laid the bike down on the same side, so after a while we started sourcing body panels for it. And while sourcing panels, we decided to get rid of all that weight and transform the look of the bike too. The weight reduction idea started with the all-in-one gauge and it exploded from there. In the end we took off close to 70 lbs from stock trim (most of it was reduced up top, which makes a huge improvement in the handling). I also don't think it looks like "every other sportsbike" either. Single sided swingarm, hidden lights, solid paint job, and lets not forget the sound! :) It handles great and sounds like no other sports bike out there.
I can't remember now, but did you guys actually weigh the bike and get some hard numbers?
I believe Marty has the numbers on every little thing that was replaced (even the difference in weight of the bodywork). I'll have him check his files when he gets back from vacation.
I seriously admire the dedication and the workmanship that has gone into this project, but I have to ask myself, why? Why would you want to junk the very distinctive and attractive 4th Gen bodywork and turn the bike into one that looks like every other sportsbike on the road? To me, it just doesn't make sense.
We didn't buy the bike wrecked. The bike was perfect and had 6k miles on it when my dad purchased it. At one point or another we both laid the bike down on the same side, so after a while we started sourcing body panels for it. And while sourcing panels, we decided to get rid of all that weight and transform the look of the bike too. The weight reduction idea started with the all-in-one gauge and it exploded from there. In the end we took off close to 70 lbs from stock trim (most of it was reduced up top, which makes a huge improvement in the handling). I also don't think it looks like "every other sportsbike" either. Single sided swingarm, hidden lights, solid paint job, and lets not forget the sound! :) It handles great and sounds like no other sports bike out there.
Hello, I was wondering what honda your new oil cooler came off and where did you get your veypor guages and how much, just finished rewiring vfr850rr, theyd removed alternator, stator, starter and all stock wiring. I'll have to relocate oil cooler, figure out a 2nd radiator below original, but have to change design of front head pipes, then change design of up pipe and collector for the twin undertail exhaust. The original builder didn't leave any room for wiring,battery fuel pump,etc. it was a full loss race system, your bike came out great, thanks for any info on cooler or veypor,Tom
I seriously admire the dedication and the workmanship that has gone into this project, but I have to ask myself, why? Why would you want to junk the very distinctive and attractive 4th Gen bodywork and turn the bike into one that looks like every other sportsbike on the road? To me, it just doesn't make sense.
We didn't buy the bike wrecked. The bike was perfect and had 6k miles on it when my dad purchased it. At one point or another we both laid the bike down on the same side, so after a while we started sourcing body panels for it. And while sourcing panels, we decided to get rid of all that weight and transform the look of the bike too. The weight reduction idea started with the all-in-one gauge and it exploded from there. In the end we took off close to 70 lbs from stock trim (most of it was reduced up top, which makes a huge improvement in the handling). I also don't think it looks like "every other sportsbike" either. Single sided swingarm, hidden lights, solid paint job, and lets not forget the sound! :) It handles great and sounds like no other sports bike out there.
70 punds off?? I don't think the 4th gen bodywork and all it's related hardware could weigh that much? :blink: :huh: So you're saying you found a whole bunch of boatanchors hidden in the bike?? I can believe maybe 20+- pounds off , but 70? We need to know how that's done.
70 punds off?? I don't think the 4th gen bodywork and all it's related hardware could weigh that much? :blink: :huh: So you're saying you found a whole bunch of boatanchors hidden in the bike?? I can believe maybe 20+- pounds off , but 70? We need to know how that's done.
Beck
95 VFR
Well, the stock slip-on weighs 11-13lbs by itself...
70 punds off?? I don't think the 4th gen bodywork and all it's related hardware could weigh that much? :blink: :huh: So you're saying you found a whole bunch of boatanchors hidden in the bike?? I can believe maybe 20+- pounds off , but 70? We need to know how that's done.
Beck
95 VFR
Well, the stock slip-on weighs 11-13lbs by itself...
Yes, you typically knock it down to half (with an SS Staintune and a little less for a super lightweight CF can system. But there's still about 60 hard get rid off. pounds to go....
Second quess and question all you want (and poke fun with "then my bike has got to be at least 125lbs lighter than stock..") [by the way, we never said the body panels alone removed 60/70 lbs from the bike - those were your words, not ours], but the weight loss is there. The sub frame itself weighed at least 20 pounds and the all aluminum subframe we made weighs less than 5 pounds IIRC. Muffler and pipe are the same way, they weighed 20+ pounds and ours weighs ~5 pounds.
We did this conversion for weight and for looks as I previously said. While we were doing it we thought it would behoove some of you that wanted to modify your bikes also from an informational standpoint. However, it is blatantly apparent that some of you have taken this to negative town and are doubting this entire project. I'll see if I can get my bike on the scales and compare its weight to that of a stock VFR (460 lbs dry) and post up the result.
I just weighed it on two digital scales used for FedEx and UPS shipments. Totally wet (full tank of gas, coolant, and oil) my bike weighs 432.7 pounds.
And when I finish the exhaust with a custom header and re-paint the bike I don't know if I'll post it on here. The posts above make me not want to do a build/mod log anymore. Too much haterade.
I like your project. Great job. - 432 pounds, that' s impresive. - if you have the old/new parts weight, I would be interested in that. The weight reduction thing is something I wanted to try on a 5th gen.
- Please continue to post - -- most people here are a bunch of techies & geeks and just curious. (me too) :beer:
The thread was silent for one year, one post in jest (well that is how I read it) and now you do not want to post on your project? Come on. Lighten up! :tour:
I wasn't poking fun or challenging what you said. If anything I was volunteering supporting information. I hadn't realized it was so old either, I honestly thought is was Sept '11.. I'd tell you good job, but I'll wait until you get your undies out of a twist.
Yes my panties were/are in a bunch. I'm too used to being on car stereo forums where there is no joking, only 15 year old kids spewing bile from their mom's basement all over everyone elses hard work. I own two stereo companies and those forums are how I educate and advertise. It's tough wading through the stupidity and negativity that consumes those forums. ...which makes it very different for me to come to this site and see such a drastic change from what I'm used to. Thanks for the reality check guys. :)
I haven't been working on the bike much in the past year as you can see. But I do plan on working on it a bit over this winter.
Has anyone seen the latest Performance Bike magazine? I absolutely love the paint scheme on the new Fireblade and I'm thinking of doing something similar to my bike. White wheels and the blue red and white color scheme but with silver stripes/accents instead of the gold accents they have.
Sounds like a decent color combo, although I haven't seen the mag, maybe you can get somebody on here good with Photoshop to do a chop for you to see how it looks on the bike. I'm planning on painting mine over the winter too, just trying to figure out my tail swap options before I settle on color(s).
First off, very nice job with the bike, looks awesome! While I'll admit I was never one who was much for modding but I must say I like what you did there.
As for the paint scheme I like the colors, but from my (only one man's) opinion too much contrasting white on the side panels compared to the rest of the bike, and that's a critique of the paint scheme in general. I'd say go with the colors but customize the scheme a little bit, even if its just the side panels, maybe draw on the older VFR racing paint schemes?
ElectrodynamicHas anyone seen the latest Performance Bike magazine? I absolutely love the paint scheme on the new Fireblade and I'm thinking of doing something similar to my bike. White wheels and the blue red and white color scheme but with silver stripes/accents instead of the gold accents they have.
Haven't seen the latest but I have the one that you posted the bike up in Readers Projects :fing02:
Good to see it is still coming along Chris. Say hello to your dad for me.
Dad and I just installed the Vapor Trail gauge a little bit ago and MAN it looks great! It took us the greater part of 5 hours to install, but that included numerous trips to the local autoparts store to make the temperature sensor integrate with the factory piping and wiring up for future bar-end turn signals.
How difficult was the wiring conversion? I'm interested in the Vapor trail but I'm not the sharpest tack in the box with electrical.
Dad and I just installed the Vapor Trail gauge a little bit ago and MAN it looks great! It took us the greater part of 5 hours to install, but that included numerous trips to the local autoparts store to make the temperature sensor integrate with the factory piping and wiring up for future bar-end turn signals.
How difficult was the wiring conversion? I'm interested in the Vapor trail but I'm not the sharpest tack in the box with electrical.
Thanks
Chris
Oakland, Ca.
The wiring conversion wasn't very difficult if you are ready and willing to cut in, or solder, onto the existing factory wiring. Once you make the jump into cutting factory wires it's pretty smooth sailing from that point.
...well, that, and I've had to wire in a resistor in-line with the tach wire to keep the tach from going ape $hit all the time. Apparently the mighty viffer has too much signal and makes the tach go nuts.
I have a 94 Vfr 750 that im doing a rebuild project on with a custom rear tail piece and ehaust, but id like to redo the front too. Would you be willing to help me out with the bracket as far as plans and dimensions and the info to where you got your plastics?? :wheel:
Thanks
"the ass end kicked out..so i twisted harder and taught her whose boss"- My Pop's :beer:
I still need to take some pics of the Veypor unit and dash. I was so excited to ride I forgot to do it.
For some reason my camera bleached out the red paint. It almost looks new to the naked eye.
Soooo i have a question, and call me a noob but i ave been super busy with school, but does the f4i body really mount up that well to the vfr body?? cause i did a custon project with a cbr 600rr subframe and unther the seat exhaust i just need to fix the front now.
"the ass end started to slide out...so i twisted harder adn showed her whos boss" -My Pop's
I didn't mount the F4i front end, myself, so I am not sure of the fiddling that is required. The guy who did it said it was relatively easy with all the f4i parts, including the fairing stay, which needed to be mounted just so for the handlebars to clear (stock). Aftermarket bars may be a problem. He did cut the lower fairing on one side to clear the stand and the plastic fairing part just underneath the handlebars that mount up to the frame on the f4i but have nowhere to be mounted on the VFR. Otherwise, not too bad. If you have the ability to do the back end, I would think the front should work fine, too.
I have a 94 Vfr 750 that im doing a rebuild project on with a custom rear tail piece and ehaust, but id like to redo the front too. Would you be willing to help me out with the bracket as far as plans and dimensions and the info to where you got your plastics?? :wheel:
Sorry for missing your question, as I've not been active on here for a long time. The first posts stated that I used the Sharkskin race bodywork.. I don't have any drawings of the rear subframe I made unfortunately. Sorry.
We still have the bike and are planning a new paint job for this year.
I have a 94 Vfr 750 that im doing a rebuild project on with a custom rear tail piece and ehaust, but id like to redo the front too. Would you be willing to help me out with the bracket as far as plans and dimensions and the info to where you got your plastics?? :wheel:
Sorry for missing your question, as I've not been active on here for a long time. The first posts stated that I used the Sharkskin race bodywork.. I don't have any drawings of the rear subframe I made unfortunately. Sorry.
We still have the bike and are planning a new paint job for this year.
Yep, I took an extended break as Nick has the VFR now, and I've been without a bike for two years now. I will be changing jobs the first of June and was going to buy a 84,85,or86 Honda Nighthawk but my wife just lost her 80K/year job on Friday, so I aint buying crap now. I'm going to likely "borrow" my old VFR back and use it to commute with. I unfortunately sold the Helibars, Convertibars, and Spiegler riser bar setups, so now I'm going to have to try and locate a set of them, as Nick put the stock bars on it when he got it from me. I went and sat on it today where he has it stored and it's just too far bent over for me, now that I'm almost 58 in a week or so. I'll let you know if I start commuting with it.
Sorry for our/my absence but I had some health issues about a year and a half ago followed by my son being born. Needless to say I haven't ridden the bike hardly any this past year. I maybe put 75 miles on it in 2012. I'm now entertaining selling it for $2800. I'd rather see it ridden instead of sitting in my shed almost all year long. :( It pains me seeing it sitting there not being ridden.
Big bummer but at least it went to a current VFR rider. The guy who bought it has a first generation VFR 700. Very cool. Local guy saw it on Craigslist and came over a few days ago to look at it. He is a very nice guy who is also very respectful. After he was done initially looking at it he mentioned that he didn't want to ask to ride it because he didn't have any money to give me right then but asked if he could see it being ridden. I said sure and jumped on it and rode it down the short distance to the end of my road and back (about 75 yards). When I was pulling back up to my driveway I saw him smiling and knew the deal was done. Through his smiles he quickly said that it was the best sounding bike he's ever heard. And well, the very next day he came back with cash in hand. I almost teared up watching/hearing it drive off into the sunset. I'm really going to miss that bike. :)
Glad to see it went to a VFR guy. Sorry I couldn't buy it, myself. It was good meeting you a couple weeks ago. I also hope the new owner becomes a member on the forum and joins us for TMAC next year!
I told him to sign up here. He saw the complete build thread that I linked here in my ad so hopefully he will sign up and continue updating this thread with his progress.
Sadly I haven't heard anything from him since I mailed the title to him. :(
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