Why?

Yes sRoYz's info is on the money. I'd done some preliminary fitment and measurements, and discovered that the steering lock stop fix I'd used when my VTR1000 clip-ons were fitted were perfect for the stop tabs on the 929 lower - I literally just had to back the hex screws out a bit. He went on to discover that my measurements for the spacers needed were out (what looks good in theory doesn't always work out in practise...) and worked out what was needed there.

I wasn't even completely certain that my calcs re. final front ride height against stock (and resultant rake/trail measurements), were going to work out once it was on its new front end, until zRoYz post above. Veefer800Canuck had told me that the initial fork height setting I'd used was going to result in very short trail and nervous handling, so I was hoping it was going to get at least halfway between razor sharp and VFR as far as turn-in performance goes. Not that I'm gonna find out in any great rush.

The Phantom, Sep 22 2007, 05:06 PMYes sRoYz's info is on the money. I'd done some preliminary fitment and measurements, and discovered that the steering lock stop fix I'd used when my VTR1000 clip-ons were fitted were perfect for the stop tabs on the 929 lower - I literally just had to back the hex screws out a bit. He went on to discover that my measurements for the spacers needed were out (what looks good in theory doesn't always work out in practise...) and worked out what was needed there.

I wasn't even completely certain that my calcs re. final front ride height against stock (and resultant rake/trail measurements), were going to work out once it was on its new front end, until zRoYz post above. Veefer800Canuck had told me that the initial fork height setting I'd used was going to result in very short trail and nervous handling, so I was hoping it was going to get at least halfway between razor sharp and VFR as far as turn-in performance goes. Not that I'm gonna find out in any great rush.

Well from my very own little tape measure & test bolting everything together & knowing exactly the height & sag settings from RC51 front that I know worked a treat the R1 forks will probably have 5mm length to spare for setup I like & rear end will be about 15mm higher than stock.

I like to push the front end & have major feed back from it because I have a fast entry speed, if I don't I ride slower than a nanny. If your a relaxed rider & like the VFR standard with higher bars added & forks set to standard height on ring clips then my opinion is you wont like the change to geometry the 929/954/SP1 triple clamps make. If your standard VFR forks have been raised in the triple clamps say 10mm (this lowers front end) then you will be very close to the feel the fork swap has.

Also the converti bars are unreal & you can have bar height higher than standard if you want & there wide, I have to trim 25mm off each end due to mounting position makes them to wide, but better to have wider & cut down than to short. Short bars will give you the feeling at times your bike just wants to fall over in a corner (the VFR750 when track bike had VTR bars fitted & at times felt like it wanted to sleep in a corner).

NUTSHELL, R1 forks will give you EXACT SAME ride height if needed as RC51 forks if you mount clipons under top triple, the only problem is finding a clipon that is multi adjustable due to clearance problems mounting clipon lower & the converti bars do that for you.

vfrcapn, Sep 21 2007, 07:29 AMSo I ran across the simple geometry formula for calculating these figures, which is good since I've forgotten my tangents from my sines.

FYI, there is a Tony Foale freeware program to calculate rake/trail/offset/radius (it calculates the fourth value). Same result as you calculated for the Fi--but loads easier!

I will have to do some serious measuring once I get back to London... The rake and trail numbers are listed in the Honda Workshop Manuals, but offset is not.

FYI, VFR750FL-P rake is 26-deg and trail is 100mm.

Ciao,

VFR750FL-P rake is 26-deg and trail is 100mm.

Some more specs:

CBR929 rake is 23.8-deg and trail is 97mm

RC45 rake is 24.5-deg and trail is 86-98mm

zRoYz, Sep 23 2007, 09:52 AMIf your standard VFR forks have been raised in the triple clamps say 10mm (this lowers front end) then you will be very close to the feel the fork swap has.

That's a good concise definition there.

zRoYz, Sep 23 2007, 09:52 AMAlso the converti bars are unreal & you can have bar height higher than standard if you want & there wide, I have to trim 25mm off each end due to mounting position makes them to wide, but better to have wider & cut down than to short. Short bars will give you the feeling at times your bike just wants to fall over in a corner (the VFR750 when track bike had VTR bars fitted & at times felt like it wanted to sleep in a corner).

My VTR bars did that too, as well as being a little shorter they're more aggresively angled. At first I was wondering if the gearbox had somehow gone into neutral, but it was the handling that had taken a short break, with the bike suddenly feeling like it was free-wheeling. I still liked the bars, giving more weighting over the front end. But that little grey area is not something that Honda would allow to get past the design testing stage, goes to show that they are very thorough in design.

We're trampling all over that refinement, of course, but so far it seems that the solutions that have been used (and there's many* now!) have had some pretty keen minds at work to maintain the VFR's safety and dynamics. Physicians Rule: First, Do No Harm (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)


* I'd be interested in a brief listing of each FrankenViffer that details the make/model and mods if any for the triples, forks, wheel, brakes, bars, and misc. I'm sure it would be interesting reading! Even more interesting would be to add the geometry specs as calculated by the Tony Foale device.

The Phantom, Sep 23 2007, 05:35 PM

zRoYz, Sep 23 2007, 09:52 AMIf your standard VFR forks have been raised in the triple clamps say 10mm (this lowers front end) then you will be very close to the feel the fork swap has.

That's a good concise definition there.

zRoYz, Sep 23 2007, 09:52 AMAlso the converti bars are unreal & you can have bar height higher than standard if you want & there wide, I have to trim 25mm off each end due to mounting position makes them to wide, but better to have wider & cut down than to short. Short bars will give you the feeling at times your bike just wants to fall over in a corner (the VFR750 when track bike had VTR bars fitted & at times felt like it wanted to sleep in a corner).

My VTR bars did that too, as well as being a little shorter they're more aggresively angled. At first I was wondering if the gearbox had somehow gone into neutral, but it was the handling that had taken a short break, with the bike suddenly feeling like it was free-wheeling. I still liked the bars, giving more weighting over the front end. But that little grey area is not something that Honda would allow to get past the design testing stage, goes to show that they are very thorough in design.

We're trampling all over that refinement, of course, but so far it seems that the solutions that have been used (and there's many* now!) have had some pretty keen minds at work to maintain the VFR's safety and dynamics. Physicians Rule: First, Do No Harm (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)


* I'd be interested in a brief listing of each FrankenViffer that details the make/model and mods if any for the triples, forks, wheel, brakes, bars, and misc. I'm sure it would be interesting reading! Even more interesting would be to add the geometry specs as calculated by the Tony Foale device.

Douglas Cook
'96 VFR
CBR 954 Upper and Lower Triples, CBR Front Forks, CBR 954 Front Wheel, Galfer Wave Rotors (front and rear), Cycle Cat Hayabusa Clip-ons. Still have to do the Tony Foale measurements. Stock rear suspension.

zRoYz, Sep 22 2007, 04:52 PMWell from my very own little tape measure & test bolting everything together & knowing exactly the height & sag settings from RC51 front that I know worked a treat the R1 forks will probably have 5mm length to spare for setup I like & rear end will be about 15mm higher than stock.

How did you accomplish the 15mm rear ride height adjustment, how many mm did you shim the rear shock? I squeezed in 6mm yesterday (4mm more), will ride it today to see the affect. I initially tried a 10mm shim but the Ohlin's lower shock mounting and dogbone were interfering - I dropped the swingarm as much as possible but still couldn't get the clearance. 6mm may be enough though.

I've read the shim to ride height ratio is 3:1 and 6:1, my measurement only showed about a 2:1 ratio though, my 4mm increase resulted in about 8mm additional ride height.

JZH, Sep 23 2007, 01:12 AM

vfrcapn, Sep 21 2007, 07:29 AMSo I ran across the simple geometry formula for calculating these figures, which is good since I've forgotten my tangents from my sines.

FYI, there is a Tony Foale freeware program to calculate rake/trail/offset/radius (it calculates the fourth value). Same result as you calculated for the Fi--but loads easier!

I will have to do some serious measuring once I get back to London... The rake and trail numbers are listed in the Honda Workshop Manuals, but offset is not.

FYI, VFR750FL-P rake is 26-deg and trail is 100mm.

Ciao,

Thanks, I corrected the equation I had posted. The online calculators are great, but I had to draw it out myself and to verify the 'behind the scenes' calcs. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/smile.gif)

BTW, the only offical Honda release I've seen lists rake and trail as 25.5deg, 95mm for the 5G. http://world.honda.com/news/1998/printerfr...ly/2980410.html

Many publications like Sportrider, Motorcyclist, etc report trail as 100mm. http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_9806_h...r800/index.html I suppose different tire sizes could be the variable. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/unsure.gif)

The 6mm shock shim was an improvement but I ended up cranking the preload to almost max while out riding it today. That got the bike much better but still not quite right. That little combination increased ride height about 14mm. Note: I'm measuring height off a fixed point, the back of my Givi trunk rack to ground.

Looking at it back at home I didn't see any way to add more to the shim height since the shock-dogbone were already interfering.
(IMG:http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o124/capnspif/RC51_forks/IMG_3627Large.jpg)

The best option I could see was a shorter dogbone to increase rear ride height, something similar to what Wolf must have put in their later underseat kits. Where do I get a shorter dogbone link? (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/idea3.gif)

I just got a 4th gen shock linkage last week off eBay, planned to use with the sss on my 1000R if I ever get to it. A quick measurement showed the only difference was length, the 4G is a half inch or so shorter. This is probably documented on the site somewhere but it was new news to me.
(IMG:http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o124/capnspif/RC51_forks/IMG_3633Large.jpg)

After inserting that little piece of hardware, I've got about 45mm of additional height, and that was after backing the preload off to my original SAG setting. After a good ride to test it's like a new bike, again. Turn in is good, almost no understeer and fighting it to keep a line through corners. There's still a little of that but it doesn't take much input anymore, I'm not having to muscle it through. It also feels much more balanced at low speed. Completely stable at high speeds up to, well, high speeds.

Of course the rear is in the air so the center stand was rubbing the chain (now adjusted), it's leaning more (normal angle now) on the side stand, etc. It still needs some tweaks, I need to recheck the sag. Much improved overall, it was actually fun to ride again, not a chore. Thanks for your indulgence on this and all the tips.

I am wondering why the rear was(is) sagging so much. The Ohlins shock has an adjustable collar for preload, you need to remove the remote reservoir oil line to turn it but maybe that isn't set correctly? It's set about mid way but has about 1.5" adjustment in either direction. This would seem to just increase preload on the spring however?

vfrcapn, Sep 24 2007, 03:58 PMThe best option I could see was a shorter dogbone to increase rear ride height, something similar to what Wolf must have put in their later underseat kits. Where do I get a shorter dogbone link? (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/idea3.gif)

I just got a 4th gen shock linkage last week off eBay, planned to use with the sss on my 1000R if I ever get to it. A quick measurement showed the only difference was length, the 4G is a half inch or so shorter. This is probably documented on the site somewhere but it was new news to me.
(IMG:http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o124/capnspif/RC51_forks/IMG_3633Large.jpg)

After inserting that little piece of hardware, I've got about 45mm of additional height, and that was after backing the preload off to my original SAG setting. After a good ride to test it's like a new bike, again. Turn in is good, almost no understeer and fighting it to keep a line through corners. There's still a little of that but it doesn't take much input anymore, I'm not having to muscle it through. It also feels much more balanced at low speed. Completely stable at high speeds up to, well, high speeds.

Of course the rear is in the air so the center stand was rubbing the chain (now adjusted), it's leaning more (normal angle now) on the side stand, etc. It still needs some tweaks, I need to recheck the sag. Much improved overall, it was actually fun to ride again, not a chore. Thanks for your indulgence on this and all the tips.

I haven't seen that here before now - I think you've just discovered something new? Well done!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)

looks like a good result there!
I'll check my Ohlins for the preload collar ... hang on, I've got remote preload on mine...

On the triple clamp subject & if a 929/954 lower is fine to use update & proof.

Pic of 05 R1 front installed to a VTEC, the oil cooler is hanging at the moment because still installing but there is enough room to mount without much problem.
(IMG:http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/7976/r1front001st8.jpg)

Pic Convrtibars which are set where I will like them for now & can go down, up another 25mm, forward, back, I have to cut 20mm off the ends because there to wide with bar ends added.
(IMG:http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/8122/r1front002kx2.jpg)

Closer pic Convertibars top triple.
(IMG:http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/8010/r1front003hv3.jpg)

I have same bar movement left too right as with RC51 fork setup.

Excellent mate, can't wait to see it in the flesh. Those brakes look very nice (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/smile.gif)

AB-Oz, Sep 24 2007, 01:21 AMlooks like a good result there!
I'll check my Ohlins for the preload collar ... hang on, I've got remote preload on mine...

I've got remote preload also, the preload collar is threaded on the shock body.
(IMG:http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o124/capnspif/RC51_forks/IMG_3651Medium.jpg)

I've had the spring replaced. I don't know how they determine the position of the collar during assembly, does it just touch the spring without any load or can you pre-load the spring by screwing down the collar? Maybe the adjustment is only to adapt to different spring lengths?

One good thread hijack deserves another, I always say...

vfrcapn, Sep 23 2007, 04:59 PMBTW, the only offical Honda release I've seen lists rake and trail as 25.5deg, 95mm for the 5G. http://world.honda.com/news/1998/printerfr...ly/2980410.html

Many publications like Sportrider, Motorcyclist, etc report trail as 100mm. http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_9806_h...r800/index.html I suppose different tire sizes could be the variable. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/unsure.gif)

STOP!

I've just gone through a shed-load of info online (some of it originated here) and in Honda Workshop Manuals, and I can say categorically that if you make a serious decision based on what's written in a Honda Press release or (worse, still) a magazine article, you are playing with fire. I've seen articles make howling mistakes about basic things, much less technical specs, and I've seen Honda press materials contradict each other between the "Features" and "Specifications" pages... Short of actually measuring your own bike, the best way of figuring out which specs are accurate is to consult the General Information section of an official Honda Workshop Manual. (I've seen these to be wrong, too, but they are still the best sources available.)

The main problem with even reliable, official specs is that not everything is listed. For example, fork offset is never mentioned--it must be physically measured, and it's not an easy spec to determine. I'm thinking the best way may be to take the upper triple clamp off the bike, flip it over and plot its holes directly onto a sheet of paper, then find the centers and measure the offset on the paper. (Any better ideas?) You will also never find fork spacing or wheel hub width listed in any spec sheet, so the only option is to physically measure the parts in question.

With respect to the Frankenviffer game (veering back on topic...), I have long heard that such and such is the same as that part, and this other part from a different bike. Well, I'm beginning to doubt some of this conventional wisdom. Latest was the discussion regarding four-piston brake caliper interchangeability. Yes, many Honda calipers will fit different bikes, but they are by no means identical (the thread was "saved" by vfrcpn, I think), as most have different piston diameters and are therefore designed to work with different-sized master cylinders--ignore this and you will have a mismatch; get it really wrong and you will have no brakes!

The usual USD-equipped Honda sport bikes (600RR/929/954/SP1/SP2/1000RR) all have different rake and trail numbers (even using Honda Workshop Manual specs), so is it actually reasonable to consider their parts totally interchangeable? I'm no longer willing to accept that if they can be bolted together, they're the same. True, the official specs can all be made different by something as simple as raising or lowering the forks in the yokes (or changing the rear suspension specs, for that matter), but I still want to make sure. All I bloody want is the same geometry after as before any swap, and I'm tired of people claiming it doesn't matter! (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/mad.gif) So...

I'm going to get to the bottom of the suspension specs game and I've begun to put together a spreadsheet listing precise model information, suspension dimensions and brake specs. Right now it's more holes than cheese (because I have had to make most of the info "unconfirmed"), but I hope to have something useful to upload in the next couple of weeks. I've got many Honda manuals in electronic and paper form, though there are some gaps in my collection, so I'll be asking people with access to Honda Workshop Manuals for other bikes to confirm some of the stats for me. Basically, I'm including info for all Honda sport (and sport-ish) bikes from the CBR600F2 through the present generations of CBR, RVF, VFR and VTR. That's right, I only do Hondas. Sorry! (Someone else can add the R1/mongrel stuff later?)

Ciao,

JZH what you have said is 100% right, unless you do the measurements on a physical bike your playing with fire. Things like even the factory listed fork center can catch you out which I found out when I measured R1 forks to suit CBR triples.

I know from measurements the only real effect I get with this combo is a 5mm shorter wheel base. I know it works in the real world because I have been using same setup with RC51 forks for 12 months.

I have no problem with high or low speed stability
Standard forks tend to let bike weave over bumps at over 180kph (80kph corner) this setup is rock solid
Improved front tyre wear

vfrcapn, Sep 24 2007, 09:02 AM

AB-Oz, Sep 24 2007, 01:21 AMlooks like a good result there!
I'll check my Ohlins for the preload collar ... hang on, I've got remote preload on mine...

I've got remote preload also, the preload collar is threaded on the shock body.
(IMG:http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o124/capnspif/RC51_forks/IMG_3651Medium.jpg)

I've had the spring replaced. I don't know how they determine the position of the collar during assembly, does it just touch the spring without any load or can you pre-load the spring by screwing down the collar? Maybe the adjustment is only to adapt to different spring lengths?

You most likely want at least 1/4-1/2" of spring preload with the remote adjuster at zero preload. Ideally where ever it needs to be to have the correct Sag for you in the first quarter to one half of it's adjustment.
(IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)

Baileyrock, Sep 25 2007, 07:36 AMYou most likely want at least 1/4-1/2" of spring preload with the remote adjuster at zero preload. Ideally where ever it needs to be to have the correct Sag for you in the first quarter to one half of it's adjustment.
(IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)

Thanks, that makes sense. I can't adjust it without unscrewing the preload adjuster line however, so something to be left for the shop.

vfrcapn, Sep 18 2007, 09:22 PMThe rise on those looks to be about the same as the stock 954 clip ons I'm using, the angle looks more comfortable though. I'm keeping an eye out for the 929 Helibars, or the ones Rob used from a Duc, or GSXR, or anything 50mm really.

Some 929 Cyclecat risers popped up on eBay finally, I'm pretty happy with them. Low speed handling is much better, more control, less steering effort and less weight on the bars, better on the back. Cables all fit, the only mod was shimming the clutch master to clear the riser. I need to work on the angle of the clutch master, it's too low right now but this fairing doesn't leave much room for adjustment. I may look at changing out to a remote reservoir, need to find which bikes use those. 954? 600rr?

Overall though these are really nicely engineered, I'm surprised. The angle adjustement of the bar is nicely done and the satin finish looks good, imho. Plenty of bar length give a wide grip. And I can mostly see my guages again! (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)
(IMG:http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o124/capnspif/RC51_forks/IMG_3959Small.jpg)

(IMG:http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o124/capnspif/RC51_forks/IMG_3949Small.jpg)

(IMG:http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o124/capnspif/RC51_forks/IMG_3954Small.jpg)

vfrcapn, Oct 22 2007, 03:38 PMI need to work on the angle of the clutch master, it's too low right now but this fairing doesn't leave much room for adjustment. I may look at changing out to a remote reservoir, need to find which bikes use those. 954? 600rr?

I think they are cable. Look for a VTR1000 clutch lever/reservoir assembly.

JZH, Sep 24 2007, 03:39 PMOne good thread hijack deserves another, I always say...

vfrcapn, Sep 23 2007, 04:59 PMBTW, the only offical Honda release I've seen lists rake and trail as 25.5deg, 95mm for the 5G. http://world.honda.com/news/1998/printerfr...ly/2980410.html

Many publications like Sportrider, Motorcyclist, etc report trail as 100mm. http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_9806_h...r800/index.html I suppose different tire sizes could be the variable. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/unsure.gif)

STOP!

I've just gone through a shed-load of info online (some of it originated here) and in Honda Workshop Manuals, and I can say categorically that if you make a serious decision based on what's written in a Honda Press release or (worse, still) a magazine article, you are playing with fire. I've seen articles make howling mistakes about basic things, much less technical specs, and I've seen Honda press materials contradict each other between the "Features" and "Specifications" pages... Short of actually measuring your own bike, the best way of figuring out which specs are accurate is to consult the General Information section of an official Honda Workshop Manual. (I've seen these to be wrong, too, but they are still the best sources available.)

The main problem with even reliable, official specs is that not everything is listed. For example, fork offset is never mentioned--it must be physically measured, and it's not an easy spec to determine. I'm thinking the best way may be to take the upper triple clamp off the bike, flip it over and plot its holes directly onto a sheet of paper, then find the centers and measure the offset on the paper. (Any better ideas?) You will also never find fork spacing or wheel hub width listed in any spec sheet, so the only option is to physically measure the parts in question.

With respect to the Frankenviffer game (veering back on topic...), I have long heard that such and such is the same as that part, and this other part from a different bike. Well, I'm beginning to doubt some of this conventional wisdom. Latest was the discussion regarding four-piston brake caliper interchangeability. Yes, many Honda calipers will fit different bikes, but they are by no means identical (the thread was "saved" by vfrcpn, I think), as most have different piston diameters and are therefore designed to work with different-sized master cylinders--ignore this and you will have a mismatch; get it really wrong and you will have no brakes!

The usual USD-equipped Honda sport bikes (600RR/929/954/SP1/SP2/1000RR) all have different rake and trail numbers (even using Honda Workshop Manual specs), so is it actually reasonable to consider their parts totally interchangeable? I'm no longer willing to accept that if they can be bolted together, they're the same. True, the official specs can all be made different by something as simple as raising or lowering the forks in the yokes (or changing the rear suspension specs, for that matter), but I still want to make sure. All I bloody want is the same geometry after as before any swap, and I'm tired of people claiming it doesn't matter! (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/mad.gif) So...

I'm going to get to the bottom of the suspension specs game and I've begun to put together a spreadsheet listing precise model information, suspension dimensions and brake specs. Right now it's more holes than cheese (because I have had to make most of the info "unconfirmed"), but I hope to have something useful to upload in the next couple of weeks. I've got many Honda manuals in electronic and paper form, though there are some gaps in my collection, so I'll be asking people with access to Honda Workshop Manuals for other bikes to confirm some of the stats for me. Basically, I'm including info for all Honda sport (and sport-ish) bikes from the CBR600F2 through the present generations of CBR, RVF, VFR and VTR. That's right, I only do Hondas. Sorry! (Someone else can add the R1/mongrel stuff later?)

Update: I uploaded the chart a couple of weeks ago...here. See message #10 for the link.

Ciao,

Well, I've now taken my 1000RR forks apart (and a few others...) and you know what? I don't think I'm going to use their radial caliper mounts after all. The RC51 SP1 forks are clearly something special, and the 1000RR forks are just like all of the other 'Blade forks internally. I don't think I could even use the SP1 cartridge, as it is so different from the rest, which would mean I'd have to use a regular one, and I'm not enough of a suspension mechanic to make that level of swap work.

(CBR1000RR on top; SP1 on bottom; in between are 929 and 954, but I can't remember which is which!)
(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1195855173/gallery_362_402_75227.jpg)
The 1000RR and SP1 springs are straight-rate? Are they OEM?

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1195855173/gallery_362_402_42687.jpg)

Ciao,

JZH, Nov 24 2007, 05:25 PMWell, I've now taken my 1000RR forks apart (and a few others...) and you know what? I don't think I'm going to use their radial caliper mounts after all. The RC51 SP1 forks are clearly something special, and the 1000RR forks are just like all of the other 'Blade forks internally. I don't think I could even use the SP1 cartridge, as it is so different from the rest, which would mean I'd have to use a regular one, and I'm not enough of a suspension mechanic to make that level of swap work.

(CBR1000RR on top; SP1 on bottom; in between are 929 and 954, but I can't remember which is which!)
(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1195855173/gallery_362_402_75227.jpg)
The 1000RR and SP1 springs are straight-rate? Are they OEM?

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1195855173/gallery_362_402_42687.jpg)

Ciao,

the silver one of the 929/954 combo is the 929. i have a 954 and it has blue fork top caps.

flyguyeddy, Nov 27 2007, 12:16 AMthe silver one of the 929/954 combo is the 929. i have a 954 and it has blue fork top caps.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)

FYI, I'm considering an alternative to the 1000RR for radial brakes, though I don't know the price:

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1196528876/gallery_362_402_119395.jpg)
Style and Performance RC51 SP1 Radial Caliper Mounts

If you've got the RC51 SP1 front end already (which I do, except for the bloody wheel!), you get to keep the exact same internals, use the same discs and 22mm axle, and (it appears) the same mudguard (which would be the same as the 929/954)... Molto interessante!

Ciao,

JZH, Dec 3 2007, 07:53 AM

flyguyeddy, Nov 27 2007, 12:16 AMthe silver one of the 929/954 combo is the 929. i have a 954 and it has blue fork top caps.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)

FYI, I'm considering an alternative to the 1000RR for radial brakes, though I don't know the price:

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1196528876/gallery_362_402_119395.jpg)
Style and Performance RC51 SP1 Radial Caliper Mounts

Ciao,

Looks nice. Have you seen these:

(IMG:http://www.ema-usa.com/brakes/images/PVM_ohlins_radial_adaptor_r1.JPG)

Another take:

(IMG:http://www.kyaracing.com/images/kya_brakes/ready%20for%20trackday0002.JPG)

veefer800canuck, Dec 3 2007, 10:35 AM

JZH, Dec 3 2007, 07:53 AM

flyguyeddy, Nov 27 2007, 12:16 AMthe silver one of the 929/954 combo is the 929. i have a 954 and it has blue fork top caps.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)

FYI, I'm considering an alternative to the 1000RR for radial brakes, though I don't know the price:

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1196528876/gallery_362_402_119395.jpg)
Style and Performance RC51 SP1 Radial Caliper Mounts

Ciao,

Looks nice. Have you seen these:

(IMG:http://www.ema-usa.com/brakes/images/PVM_ohlins_radial_adaptor_r1.JPG)

Another take:

(IMG:http://www.kyaracing.com/images/kya_brakes/ready%20for%20trackday0002.JPG)

STOP! You're making my wallet hurt! (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/unsure.gif)

veefer800canuck, Dec 3 2007, 03:35 PMLooks nice. Have you seen these:

(IMG:http://www.ema-usa.com/brakes/images/PVM_ohlins_radial_adaptor_r1.JPG)

Another take:

(IMG:http://www.kyaracing.com/images/kya_brakes/ready%20for%20trackday0002.JPG)

I have now! Thanks. Although I am off to LA at the end of the week, and would quite fancy a little jaunt down to 24th Street (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/unsure.gif) , the word is that KYA Racing doesn't really exist any more. Too bad. I'm not a Brembo fan, but those brackets do look rather nice!

Ciao,

You know, there is some beautiful machine work, etc. on a lot of this stuff I'm looking at on here...but..."radial brake conversions"...... (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/blink.gif) Just looks like extra bolts, brackets, expense for not enough gain. Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of radial mounted brakes. The braking has always been more powerful on everything I've owned(including the Triumph) with "radials", but some of this stuff looks like conversions for the sake of "eye candy"........maybe I'm wrong.......... (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/unsure.gif)

JZH, Dec 4 2007, 07:57 AM

veefer800canuck, Dec 3 2007, 03:35 PMLooks nice. Have you seen these:

(IMG:http://www.ema-usa.com/brakes/images/PVM_ohlins_radial_adaptor_r1.JPG)

Another take:

(IMG:http://www.kyaracing.com/images/kya_brakes/ready%20for%20trackday0002.JPG)

I have now! Thanks. Although I am off to LA at the end of the week, and would quite fancy a little jaunt down to 24th Street (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/unsure.gif) , the word is that KYA Racing doesn't really exist any more. Too bad. I'm not a Brembo fan, but those brackets do look rather nice!

Ciao,

The PVM adaptors will fit Showa forks as well as the Ohlins legs pictured.

Don't forget these:

(IMG:http://www.yoyodyneti.com/images/400web/brembo/br_70_2508rl.jpg)

http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx...uctid=70.2508RL

The nice thing about these is they retain the rear fender mounts.