This just started lately. Sometimes actually quite a lot over the past couple of days the bike will NOT shift into 3rd. The lever will not move up at all. After a few tries it eventually lets me in. Its almost as if it still has a load on it, but the clutch is pulled in.
Ive been having alot of trouble with 2nd gear as well. Its just down right sloppy most of the time or it finds neutral. Im getting pretty worried here.
VFR_Brandon, Dec 7 2007, 05:19 PMThis just started lately. Sometimes actually quite a lot over the past couple of days the bike will NOT shift into 3rd. The lever will not move up at all. After a few tries it eventually lets me in. Its almost as if it still has a load on it, but the clutch is pulled in.
Ive been having alot of trouble with 2nd gear as well. Its just down right sloppy most of the time or it finds neutral. Im getting pretty worried here.
I was having weird shifting issues involving the ability to downshift from 2d to 1st, where it would stick and not go anywhere. Installed the Factory Pro shifter kit and all's well. The VFR shift star is ill-designed AND the return spring is very weak (and gets worse with age), leading to incomplete engagement and hang-ups. Worth a try before doing anything more invasive.
You didn't mention it, so I'll ask an obvious question. Are you certain the clutch is releasing? With the engine off will the tranny shift properly (you'll need to rotate the rear wheel slightly to get the dogs to align to check this)?
vfrjim2002, Dec 7 2007, 08:43 PMYou didn't mention it, so I'll ask an obvious question. Are you certain the clutch is releasing? With the engine off will the tranny shift properly (you'll need to rotate the rear wheel slightly to get the dogs to align to check this)?
I'll check into that tonight.
The RPM's will go down to idle if I pull the clutch in while riding. Shoudnt that mean the clutch is releasing?
If it is worn dogs, or the shifter arm. What would the cost be to fix it? Would a whole new transmission be needed? If thats the case I had rather just get a new bike.
Come on honda release the VFR1000! This is just the excuse I need! (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/squid.gif)
vfrjim2002, Dec 7 2007, 08:43 PMYou didn't mention it, so I'll ask an obvious question. Are you certain the clutch is releasing? With the engine off will the tranny shift properly (you'll need to rotate the rear wheel slightly to get the dogs to align to check this)?
For the sake of argument, have you done anything to the bike recently, (Fluid, adjustments, etc). How many miles, since you replaced that clutch?
vfrjim2002, Dec 7 2007, 08:43 PMYou didn't mention it, so I'll ask an obvious question. Are you certain the clutch is releasing? With the engine off will the tranny shift properly (you'll need to rotate the rear wheel slightly to get the dogs to align to check this)?
I'll check into that tonight.
The RPM's will go down to idle if I pull the clutch in while riding. Shoudnt that mean the clutch is releasing?
If it is worn dogs, or the shifter arm. What would the cost be to fix it? Would a whole new transmission be needed? If thats the case I had rather just get a new bike.
Come on honda release the VFR1000! This is just the excuse I need! (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/squid.gif)
The clutch could be dragging quite a bit and the engine will still drop to idle at speed. You'll notice dragging more at a stop with the bike in gear or when shifting from N to first at a stop. On most bikes you'll notice a slight bump shifting into first. If the clutch is dragging it'll be a BIG bump (often combined with interesting/expensive sounding noises) and you'll feel the bike tugging at the leash a bit when you blip the throttle in first at a stop.
As to the tranmission internals, I've not been into a VFR tranny, but from looking over the shop manual I would probably start with the shift spindle, (bent? spring broken? the claw on the spindle bent) and the roller-stopper arm/shift drum-star wheel interface under the shifter cover. If it's not there, it's probably internal - maybe a scored shift drum or drum groove, a bent shift fork or the like. It's probably not the gear dogs. If those get funky it usually doesn't prevent the transmission from going INTO gear, it just won't stay there.
VFR_Brandon, Dec 7 2007, 08:19 PMHmmm no bumps shifting into first and its not a problem at all to shift into neutral during a stop.
I'll check into this with more detail later tonight when I get a chance.
Rats. I was hoping it was the clutch - you seem to have ruled it out. I'd still sit down on the garage floor and run the transmission up and down a few times with the engine off. See if you feel any notchiness or slop in the shifter or if you hear any weird noises.
Then, if you're feeling frisky, put it on the centerstand start it and try shifting up and down listening/feeling for the same stuff. Be careful.
With the engine off and with the bike on the center stand...
1). The shifter will not get past neutral and will not shift into 2nd gear past neutral. It will down shift into first from neutral how ever.
2). As what was pointed out, the clutch may not be fully disengaging. When I put the bike into first and try to spin the will it is not a free spin as with neutral. The will will turn, but it is defiantly dragging on something.
VFR_Brandon, Dec 7 2007, 09:08 PMOk here is what ive found...
With the engine off and with the bike on the center stand...
1). The shifter will not get past neutral and will not shift into 2nd gear past neutral. It will down shift into first from neutral how ever.
2). As what was pointed out, the clutch may not be fully disengaging. When I put the bike into first and try to spin the will it is not a free spin as with neutral. The will will turn, but it is defiantly dragging on something.
Why would the clutch not be fully disengaging?
The clutch will always drag a little, particulalry when the engine's cold. The oil on and between the plates sets up a fluid couple that you'll feel when you spin the wheel. It also causes the little bump going into first.
When you try shifting from first (or neutral) into second (and so on up and down the box), you'll need to rotate the rear wheel (or better still, rock it back and forth slightly) to allow the engaging dogs on the gears to find the slots in their mating gears. You won't need to disengage the clutch as long as the engine's off.
Misspent Youth, Dec 8 2007, 11:45 AMEngine should be running or you won't be able to work through the gears. Not terribly good for the shift forks to try, either.
I beg to differ, as long as you rock the wheel you're doing the same thing the running engine does only from countershaft side instead of the mainshaft side. It works just fine, no damage to shift forks, drum or sliders.
Edit: Shifting gently by hand let's you feel for binding in the shift spindle, stopper plate/arm interface as well as roughness in the shift drum/fork interface.
I used to have this problem also on my 5th gen. Don't know if this matches your situation, but here goes.
1) Would happen it was cold outside (~40-50F) when the bike was relatively cold. Water temp was operating temperature (~185F), but maybe the tranny was still relatively cold? 2) I think the problem went away when I switched to synthetic oil, but I'm pretty sure itwas there when I ran 20w50 dyno oil (Castrol moto-specific oil). 3)Would only happen if I tried to shift into 3rd at higher revs, like 8000+. If I let the revs fall to 5000-ish, it would go into gear smoothly.
I found that switching to another oil improved things, and letting the bike warm up more also helped. Nils
Well, I probably shouldnt have done this till I find out what is going on. But it was really nice out today 73 degrees. So I decided to take her for a spin for a few hours. Everything ran perfectly, no problems with any gears at all. I don't know. Perhaps I should switch to a full synthetic like the poster above me has said.
I don't understand how can it shift so crappy for a while and then all of a sudden shift perfectly?
VFR_Brandon, Dec 8 2007, 07:53 PMWell, I probably shouldnt have done this till I find out what is going on. But it was really nice out today 73 degrees. So I decided to take her for a spin for a few hours. Everything ran perfectly, no problems with any gears at all. I don't know. Perhaps I should switch to a full synthetic like the poster above me has said.
I don't understand how can it shift so crappy for a while and then all of a sudden shift perfectly?
Personally I would get it checked out by a mechanic. Even if it means pulling the clutch and gearbox to bits.
A mate from OzVFR had problems as you've described, unusually for him he rode with it instead of fixing it straight away. He was on a group ride, came round an easy sweeper, engine/gearbox/rear wheel locked, he lowsided into an oncoming cage. He died. The second anniversary of his death comes around on the 27th of this month. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/sad.gif)
AB-Oz, Dec 12 2007, 08:45 PMPersonally I would get it checked out by a mechanic. Even if it means pulling the clutch and gearbox to bits.
A mate from OzVFR had problems as you've described, unusually for him he rode with it instead of fixing it straight away. He was on a group ride, came round an easy sweeper, engine/gearbox/rear wheel locked, he lowsided into an oncoming cage. He died. The second anniversary of his death comes around on the 27th of this month. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/sad.gif)
Sorry to hear that AB-Oz. I will defiantly have it checked out. I put another 150 miles on it today with no problems what so ever.
vfrjim2002, Dec 8 2007, 11:11 PMLike the first rule of computer troubleshooting. Turn it off. Wait two minutes. Turn it back on.
Works for me. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/idea3.gif)
I've had shifting issues every so often with mine... every so often will lift lever for 3rd or 4th and there just isn't anything there, or it's mush (all the time with the clutch pulled in/disengaged). It never seems like it is temp related (usually fully up to temp), and sometimes I think it is me not pulling the clutch in all the way, or shifting too slow (got used to my Sportster, shift fast and it will acknowledge its dislike). I doubt the (original thread) problem is gears or dogs though because of the mention of downshifting and what sounds like low speed operation. With mine, if i do a few shifts at 9000+ rpms, it shifts like absolute butter, and my understanding is that high rpm shifts are where the dogs wear/show wear first. So, maybe your spring/star like someone else mentioned. If you have relatively easy on it, the trans should last a loooooooooong time.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't one of the gear changes 2-3 or 3-4 that is more complex than the others for some reason? Maybe that makes the star/spring/whatever problem show up more... just a thought.
Something I've been meaning to do and I think is a good idea is having an oil drain plug with a magnet on it. If you are continually more than just a film attached to the magnet, something is going bad and probably deserves attention.
End of thread · 25 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 30 Mar 2008