I'm gonna try one last thing, disabling the flapper valve and I'm done with her. I'll just ride her till she blows.
If you've read my post then you know I've had bogging down problems for months. After I replaced the Baro sensor I've never had a code since or even the FI light flicker or anything. I've wiggled wires, I've cleaned the PAIR valves, clamped their hoses off (just quited the engine), tried different grades of fuel, changed the fuel filter, and cleaned the kickstand switch today too.
I did grab the ECM and moved it around and the bike (while idling) bogged and then died. I got some needle nose and wiggle each wire, but couldnt get it to do it again. All wires are in and I dont know how to pull them out of the plastic connector to see if the tiny metal connectors are on the wires good.
I also checked the wires connectors where the PCIII plug into and nothing.
I just dont know.
Also I need to replace my t-stat. Do I have to remove the throttlebody assembly???
captainchris13, Dec 9 2007, 01:17 AMi would check grounds, power leads to batt, voltage while wiggling wires, run without the pcIII. see if anything clears it up.
Done did all that. It bogged before the mods. Now its just worst and annoying.
Being a casual observer here, not really knowing the extent of your troubleshooting efforts since this all began. I have only this to offer, vfrs dont seem to run very well if they dont come up to proper operating temperature. The 01 has the wax element so you dont have a manual choke you can move back into postion after its run for a good while. Seems to me that your automatic choke is never fully disengaged when it is idle, so you have the bike in partial choke when you need it off. I would suggest you go ahead and do the thermostat replacement before you give up on the bike altogether - since this is most likely the root cause of your problems. Yes you do have to remove the throttle bodies to do this - however this gives you the opportunity to clean them up and grease the fuel rail injector connectors with dielectric grease while you replace the thermostat. You could very well find all sorts of gunk down there in the airbox.
I have a pictorial of how its done in the refrence/fac area if you would like to view the pictures before tackling the issue. I really think the bike will benifit from a thermostat that works properly. Right now I am sitting in my study looking at the snow falling, I dont know about you but this is the time of year to fire up the heater in the garage and take care of the maintence.
HispanicSlammer, Dec 9 2007, 11:15 AMBeing a casual observer here, not really knowing the extent of your troubleshooting efforts since this all began. I have only this to offer, vfrs dont seem to run very well if they dont come up to proper operating temperature. The 01 has the wax element so you dont have a manual choke you can move back into postion after its run for a good while. Seems to me that your automatic choke is never fully disengaged when it is idle, so you have the bike in partial choke when you need it off. I would suggest you go ahead and do the thermostat replacement before you give up on the bike altogether - since this is most likely the root cause of your problems. Yes you do have to remove the throttle bodies to do this - however this gives you the opportunity to clean them up and grease the fuel rail injector connectors with dielectric grease while you replace the thermostat. You could very well find all sorts of gunk down there in the airbox.
I have a pictorial of how its done in the refrence/fac area if you would like to view the pictures before tackling the issue. I really think the bike will benifit from a thermostat that works properly. Right now I am sitting in my study looking at the snow falling, I dont know about you but this is the time of year to fire up the heater in the garage and take care of the maintence.
Replacing the wax element sounds like it may be the solution to your problem. Good luck and let us know if this works.
HispanicSlammer, Dec 9 2007, 06:15 AM... I dont know about you but this is the time of year to fire up the heater in the garage and take care of the maintence.
Big +1.gif to that! Get that thermostat changed. Go for the obvious first, before you go nuts trying to figure out what else is wrong with it. You may have been running it rich for so long that your spark plugs are fouled up.
Terrol145 just went through the same thing as you, I also had similiar problems with my baro sensor. After Terrol replaced his baro, his discription of bogging down and just running rough sounds the same as you, he went back and retraced all the wires back from the baro and found a break in the wiring. I know this is just repeating some of what you have already been told but my bad baro was also bad connections solved with diaelectric grease. Best of luck
CHEAP EASY THERMOSTAT.....,.....find cross-reference from import car!! HONDA or others. Not easy, but it can be done.
BUY at local autoparts store for $8-12.
I'm trying to remember the site i found( ONCE) that had this great info..... ........will post when found! (if)
ALL THESE long FI threads just make me appreciate the stone-age simplicity of my '86 700 so much more! I could change thermostat on my bike in 10 minutes after removing only 8 fasteners!!!!!!!!
regaurding the ECU plug, I'ld suggest taking the PC3 out of the equation for the moment. If you remove the plugs from the ECU you can remove the rubber gasket from inside of the plug useing your fingers and just pulling, go easy though. Upon removing said gasket you can now see the square female ends fo the connection. If you use a small pick or even and straightened out paper clip you can make these pins smaller by very gently pushing either the top or the bottom. If my memory serves it's on the bottom part of the pin, but it's not a sure thing. One side will move, the other won't! basically go through all 40 whatever pins and shrink them down just slightly less than square. Pushing the plug back on will spread them back out again a little but they will be sure to have contact. It's my theory that the PC products pins are slightly larger and may or may not transfer enough heat to the connectors to misform them just a little.
This happened to be the problem with my 98 which caused 5 different error codes within the ECU. After spending unnecessary money,stipping the harness from head to ecu, I ACCIDENTLY found this to be the problem. Like I mentioned above, be very careful when applying pressure to the pins as it's really easy to completely close them and a HUGE PITA to reopen them (plus it weakens them that much more). Use steady soft presurre and slowly increase, by the 10th pin, you'll have the hang of it. Do both connectors. And good luck
squirrelman, Dec 10 2007, 06:27 PMCHEAP EASY THERMOSTAT.....,.....find cross-reference from import car!! HONDA or others. Not easy, but it can be done.
BUY at local autoparts store for $8-12.
I'm trying to remember the site i found( ONCE) that had this great info..... ........will post when found! (if)
ALL THESE long FI threads just make me appreciate the stone-age simplicity of my '86 700 so much more! I could change thermostat on my bike in 10 minutes after removing only 8 fasteners!!!!!!!!
Ya I was thinking of that, but I heard the shaft part is offset a little.
rangerscott69, Dec 15 2007, 03:38 PMThrottlebody assembly wont come off. I unscrewed the boots but it feels like its bolted down.
If you have loosened the "insulator band screws", which look like hose clamps, it is ready to come off. What you are dealing with is six years of sitting in one place. Even though the clamps are loose the rubber of the insulator is no doubt bonded to the aluminum tubes. I don't know if any of the commercially available penetrating sprays are safe to use but they probably are. You might have to pry the TB off but I would research the How-to section for clues. It seems like this has been an issue in the past. The shop manual mentions the importance of lubricating the insulators prior to re-assembly. Hope this helps.
Well, the t-stat does sit in the housing a certain way and there is an indenture in the bottom part (the housing is upside down when installed). So I guess thats why its off set.
I'm waiting on a guy to show up to look at my ninja. He better hurry cuase its cold as heck and I want to try to find a t-stat before it gets late.
Now just got to figure out exactly how the fast idle wax unit works I can tell ya if mine is fudged or not. I'm sure it is since mine has never idled fast when cold.
Anyone got a pic of it when the bike is cold and also the lever that it pulls on. Is it pulling on the lever when bike is cold or hot?
End of thread · 22 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 17 Dec 2007