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"new" '98 Vfr

9 posts Started 12 Dec 2007 Last recovered post 14 Dec 2007 Wayback Machine snapshot 16 Dec 2007

#1
I'm new to this site, having just bought a new (to me) '98 VFR with 19,000 miles on it. Seems to be in excellent condition, original owner older guy (probably like me - late 50's!), I bought from a guy who'd owned it for 4 years but only put on 4,000 miles, virtually none in the last two years. My questions:
At this mileage, anything specific I should look for? Chain, valve adjustments, how 'bout the whole rectifier issue?
Also - I've read the posts about stripping the wheels, going to the bare aluminum, which is a look I really like. The bike just had new tires put on it and I'll mask the tires and valve stems off, but do I have to worry about any stripper getting in contact with the tires or stems?
Thanks - I've really enjoyed going through the site in the past couple weeks, look forward to any suggestions anyone can share.
#2
I'd do the following:

Get the excellent Honda shop manual and get some tools - paying someone to take of your bike costs lots of money, but deferred maintenance costs more
New battery
Check charging output and replace R/R if bad
Check lights/brake light for functionality
Pull/Check brake pads, clean/lube calipers
Pull wheels and check wheel bearings
While back wheel is off, clean/lube rear hub
Lube/adjust steering stem ball bearings and consider upgrading to tapered bearings, given the mileage
Clean/lube rear suspension rising rate linkage - shock is probably getting weak, but OK for normal use
Pull forks and flush with new fluid - refill to proper height
Get valves checked/adjusted (probably wasn't done at 16K - few are - mine had 1/2 of them out or close at 13K)
Change oil
Flush/fill coolant - check for proper thermostat operation
Change tires if the sidewalls are cracked/dried out looking
Check chain/sprockets for wear - probably original and probably at the end of the chain's life, but adjust anyway and lube
Change brake/clutch fluid (flush lines)
Synch starter valves
Dump old gas and replace
Replace spark plugs

When you get done with all of that, and you still want to strip the wheels, consider that taking them to grade means constant polishing from constant oxidation and then consider getting them stripped and powdercoated or painted.

After that, consider adding the Factory Pro shift kit - it is great.
#3
welcome aboard!! yeah, what he said....great list!

that is an excellent bike with tons of miles left. enjoy!

the only thing i didn't see is i would flush and change the brake fluid too
#4
Welcome and enjoy! beer.gif

"Seems to be in excellent condition, original owner older guy (probably like me - late 50's!)"
BTW some of the old farts can really tear that crap up and do little maintenance. rolleyes.gif
#5
Welcome to the VFRD.....congrats on your bike.....now, ENJOY........ fing02.gif beer.gif
#6
Misspent Youth, Dec 12 2007, 11:47 AMI'd do the following:

Get the excellent Honda shop manual and get some tools - paying someone to take of your bike costs lots of money, but deferred maintenance costs more
New battery
Check charging output and replace R/R if bad
Check lights/brake light for functionality
Pull/Check brake pads, clean/lube calipers
Pull wheels and check wheel bearings
While back wheel is off, clean/lube rear hub
Lube/adjust steering stem ball bearings and consider upgrading to tapered bearings, given the mileage
Clean/lube rear suspension rising rate linkage - shock is probably getting weak, but OK for normal use
Pull forks and flush with new fluid - refill to proper height
Get valves checked/adjusted (probably wasn't done at 16K - few are - mine had 1/2 of them out or close at 13K)
Change oil
Flush/fill coolant - check for proper thermostat operation
Change tires if the sidewalls are cracked/dried out looking
Check chain/sprockets for wear - probably original and probably at the end of the chain's life, but adjust anyway and lube
Change brake/clutch fluid (flush lines)
Synch starter valves
Dump old gas and replace
Replace spark plugs

When you get done with all of that, and you still want to strip the wheels, consider that taking them to grade means constant polishing from constant oxidation and then consider getting them stripped and powdercoated or painted.

After that, consider adding the Factory Pro shift kit - it is great.


Thanks - very comprehensive list. Good thing I've got some time before the weather gets nice enough to ride in Chicago.
#7
mbenoy, Dec 12 2007, 11:52 AM
Misspent Youth, Dec 12 2007, 11:47 AMI'd do the following:

Get the excellent Honda shop manual and get some tools - paying someone to take of your bike costs lots of money, but deferred maintenance costs more
New battery
Check charging output and replace R/R if bad
Check lights/brake light for functionality
Pull/Check brake pads, clean/lube calipers
Pull wheels and check wheel bearings
While back wheel is off, clean/lube rear hub
Lube/adjust steering stem ball bearings and consider upgrading to tapered bearings, given the mileage
Clean/lube rear suspension rising rate linkage - shock is probably getting weak, but OK for normal use
Pull forks and flush with new fluid - refill to proper height
Get valves checked/adjusted (probably wasn't done at 16K - few are - mine had 1/2 of them out or close at 13K)
Change oil
Flush/fill coolant - check for proper thermostat operation
Change tires if the sidewalls are cracked/dried out looking
Check chain/sprockets for wear - probably original and probably at the end of the chain's life, but adjust anyway and lube
Change brake/clutch fluid (flush lines)
Synch starter valves
Dump old gas and replace
Replace spark plugs

When you get done with all of that, and you still want to strip the wheels, consider that taking them to grade means constant polishing from constant oxidation and then consider getting them stripped and powdercoated or painted.

After that, consider adding the Factory Pro shift kit - it is great.


Thanks - very comprehensive list. Good thing I've got some time before the weather gets nice enough to ride in Chicago.


How could I have forgotten:

Lube throttle/chock cables
Lube throttle body linkage pivots
Lube throttle (take off and lube handlebar, slide back on)
Remove/clean/lube sidestand and centerstand
Remove air box cover and check air filter for mouse nests - clean/replace filter as necessary (airbox comes off to check the valves)
Check radiator cap rubber for deterioration (on underside of cap)
Clean overflow tank w/the coolant change

In case it isn't clear - I spend as much time wrenching as riding, but I like knowing my stuff's up to snuff.
#8
Misspent Youth, Dec 12 2007, 09:47 AMI'd do the following:

Get the excellent Honda shop manual and get some tools - paying someone to take of your bike costs lots of money, but deferred maintenance costs more
New battery
Check charging output and replace R/R if bad
Check lights/brake light for functionality
Pull/Check brake pads, clean/lube calipers
Pull wheels and check wheel bearings
While back wheel is off, clean/lube rear hub
Lube/adjust steering stem ball bearings and consider upgrading to tapered bearings, given the mileage
Clean/lube rear suspension rising rate linkage - shock is probably getting weak, but OK for normal use
Pull forks and flush with new fluid - refill to proper height
Get valves checked/adjusted (probably wasn't done at 16K - few are - mine had 1/2 of them out or close at 13K)
Change oil
Flush/fill coolant - check for proper thermostat operation
Change tires if the sidewalls are cracked/dried out looking
Check chain/sprockets for wear - probably original and probably at the end of the chain's life, but adjust anyway and lube
Change brake/clutch fluid (flush lines)
Synch starter valves
Dump old gas and replace
Replace spark plugs

When you get done with all of that, and you still want to strip the wheels, consider that taking them to grade means constant polishing from constant oxidation and then consider getting them stripped and powdercoated or painted.

After that, consider adding the Factory Pro shift kit - it is great.

factory pro shift kit? Tell me more. I'm just getting around to modding my 98 after almost 10 years of riding it stock.
#9
VFR Capt.Bob, Dec 13 2007, 07:28 PM
Misspent Youth, Dec 12 2007, 09:47 AMI'd do the following:

Get the excellent Honda shop manual and get some tools - paying someone to take of your bike costs lots of money, but deferred maintenance costs more
New battery
Check charging output and replace R/R if bad
Check lights/brake light for functionality
Pull/Check brake pads, clean/lube calipers
Pull wheels and check wheel bearings
While back wheel is off, clean/lube rear hub
Lube/adjust steering stem ball bearings and consider upgrading to tapered bearings, given the mileage
Clean/lube rear suspension rising rate linkage - shock is probably getting weak, but OK for normal use
Pull forks and flush with new fluid - refill to proper height
Get valves checked/adjusted (probably wasn't done at 16K - few are - mine had 1/2 of them out or close at 13K)
Change oil
Flush/fill coolant - check for proper thermostat operation
Change tires if the sidewalls are cracked/dried out looking
Check chain/sprockets for wear - probably original and probably at the end of the chain's life, but adjust anyway and lube
Change brake/clutch fluid (flush lines)
Synch starter valves
Dump old gas and replace
Replace spark plugs

When you get done with all of that, and you still want to strip the wheels, consider that taking them to grade means constant polishing from constant oxidation and then consider getting them stripped and powdercoated or painted.

After that, consider adding the Factory Pro shift kit - it is great.

factory pro shift kit? Tell me more. I'm just getting around to modding my 98 after almost 10 years of riding it stock.


There are some threads on the recent group buy, so check those, and go to www.factorypro.com and find the full shift kit for the '98 VFR. For $100+ you get a new shift detent star and spring that are vastly superior to stock, especially stock with a few miles on it. Mine was having real problems downshifting - wouldn't ratchet up for next gear due to insuffient spring tension, roller, and the stock star design (plus the kit contains an improved roller arm), to the point it started to get stuck with two gears engaged. Installed the kit and no issues, only firm distinct up/down shifts. If you're not having shifting issues yet you can hold off for now, but the issues will come, from what I've read. It's a 2-3 hour install for the mechanically proficient.
End of thread · 9 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 16 Dec 2007