1985 Vf700f Restoration

It's great to see there are actually people out there with a similiar passion for the Interceptor!!!

I am getting ready to restoring my vf700f. I was 13 when I first saw the Interceptor, and wanted one. In 1987, I finally bought the bike that I wanted for so long. This was my main mode of transportation up until 1993 (through college). Unfortunately, I did not have a garage until 1999, but at least I kept it covered. I rode it up until a few years ago, and finally had to put it to pasture. In part, I needed in the least to rebuild the forks, and did not have the time.

I never wanted to get rid of it because of sentimental value, and it was the bike that started it all!!! Unfortunately, I am not a patient person. I would rather get the bike running so I can ride it right away. However, I really want to make this bike mint again. I was really excited to stumble upon this discussion group, and hope that I can provide help in the future, as I may be requesting in the near term. I would imagine that this project will take me about a year (ouch!!). I suppose that since I want the bike to be almost factory (to the best of my ability), I am going to have to take this thing down to the frame.

Here is a picture of my motorcycle as of today.
[image: Posted Image]

While I have started my research for parts that I will be needing, I noticed a bike that may curb my patience issue....the 25th anniversary Interceptor. I love the retro paint job, now to convince my wife...... :)

Looks pretty solid. Can see it needs a few things. Take care of the needs, the rest looks like minimal body, paint, stickers, and some detailing.

Welcome aboard.

Welcome, and congrats on the decision to spruce up the old girl. You're well ahead of the game already knowing that the bike runs, and it's maintenance history.

Have you ever changed the fork oil? Brake fluid? Clutch fluid?

I would go through and do that stuff, add RaceTech's Gold Valve Emulators in the forks, a better shock out back, then go for a ride and see if you still want to tear her down.

There's a thread here with restoration tips and tricks that you will want to check out.

I also have a thread on the restoration of my '83 750 that you may find interesting... ;)

Thanks, I am very excited. Your thread on the restoration of your '83 750 interested in joining the site.

Here is a list that is going into my project plan

- Clean the years of dust off the bike
- Blast, view, and paint the frame
- Rebuild the forks (never been done)
- Rebuild the calipers
- Rebuild the wheel bearings
- New Thermostat
- The various rubber pieces have started to erode, so many of the covers and gromets need to be replaced
- New exhaust (keep the slip-ons)
- Fresh paint to some of the cowlings (I am OK with a few nicks, hey its 23 years old!!!!)
- I would like to replace all the blinkers with new ones (looks fresh)
- Maybe think about add back the dashboard (not there), give more room for the clip-on bars

Oil was changed regularly on this bike, occassionally the cooling fluid, the clutch fluid has also been replaced. The mechanics of the engine are great.

Lot's of work and $$$, but hey, this was my baby. I have always joked to my wife that I wanted to have the bike restored an place in my office under glass. I was at least joking about in the office under glass (you couldn't ride it then).

I will be interested in learning more about the RaceTech's Gold Valve Emulators in the forks. I will have to review what's in the back, there may be an old white brothers shock. Either way, when I get to that point, I will ask for more suggestions on the rear shock (I am a bit heavier then I used to be, ugggghh).

Today, I start breaking down the plastic. I should clean out my work space, and add some temp shelves for the parts, just want to get started.

As I am starting to break the bike down, I have been thinking of what else would be smart to replace while I have the bike apart. Sebspeed - You are right... I have a stock rear shock on the bike. What recommendations do you have for a rear-shock? I plan on doing the fork kit, when I am rebuilding the forks.

This will help setting my budget, while I am putting together my parts list.

Just a side note, I will be tracking this project on a new website that I will be making shortly. I will post the link once it is up in case anyone is interested. I will be checking in from time to time for any advice. Also, for my new bike that I am planning on buying (though funds may not work out until september :-( ).

if you can afford new suspension bits, they are the best choice.. if not, talk to Jamie Daugherty and see what he can do for ya...

By 'new suspension bits' do you mean try to find a new stock rear shock? - Thx

Just say "NO!" to the stock shock!

From everything I read, it seems I need to talk to Jamie D. Being an old bike, I can't imagine there being any new aftermarket shocks for it. BTW, I am 6'4" and about 255. I used to be a svelt 205 when I first started riding this bike. Either way, this makes the suspension tuning that much more important. I also found in another forum string something in regards to new springs for the forks. I will probably do that as well.

You can buy a new shock from Works Performance. :beer:

One of the reasons why I need to update my suspension (besides being stock)....

[image: Posted Image]

Are you shitting me?!?!?!?!? HAHAHAHAH!!!!

I have a picture somewhere with 3-bales of hay, just can't find it. Now you know why I owe the ole girl a complete make-over....

... I think there's some cheap CRF450 suspension parts floating around on ebay... :rolleyes:


:lol:

My brother wants to sell his ;) , anyway finally got down to my carbs. They were frozen ( I guess that is what a few years sitting around will do).

Since I am going to have to rebuild them, I should re-jet them for the altitude. I moved from Connecticut to Colorado, and never did anything to the carbs, Any recommencations for the altitude?

A

OK, I have started to put up a website to track my project. In part, I know this is going to take be awhile ($$$$). For the most part, the picts I am putting on my site is tracking the breakdown of the bike and my major things to do list. In case anyone is interested, here is the site:

http://vfr.bouthillier.org/


As I have browsing VFRDiscussion, I have found so many helpful hints etc. Hopefully, I will get my Interceptor back in top riding shape (not soon enough :( )and ready for some riding up in mountains of Colorado.

Fortunately and Unfortunately, I am going on travel for the next couple of weeks (part pleasure part work), so I won't be able to do much more until the end of this month.

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Mar 21 2008, 05:26 PM, said:

While I have started my research for parts that I will be needing, I noticed a bike that may curb my patience issue....the 25th anniversary Interceptor. I love the retro paint job, now to convince my wife...... :)

Nice. I'm just up the road in Boulder. Let me know when you get it back together. I've got my 500 stripped down and undergoing restoration at the moment.

Nice, I use to ride Boulder Canyon to peek-to-peek highway over to Estes and down through Lyons. One of my favorite rides. I also like the curves in Coal Creek Canyon off of 93. I am thinking of a second bike, and am somewhat interested in the 25th anniversary Interceptor. Any comments on this bike?

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Apr 1 2008, 09:14 AM, said:

Nice, I use to ride Boulder Canyon to peek-to-peek highway over to Estes and down through Lyons. One of my favorite rides. I also like the curves in Coal Creek Canyon off of 93. I am thinking of a second bike, and am somewhat interested in the 25th anniversary Interceptor. Any comments on this bike?

Yeah, we did a nice ride up Lefthand Canyon to the P2P, over to Estes and then 34 around to Loveland this weekend. The wind was a bit gusty at times but it was nice to get back to those roads after the winter season.

I love my '07. I put the bags on during the week for the commute to work. One the weekend, I mix it up with guys on supersports. I left the bags on this weekend because the day started out at 23F and was 65F by the afternoon, so I was peeling off layers during the day. Must have been a sight to see a VFR with bags on the tail of a Ducati 749 all day and leaving an R6 in the dust in the twisties. :goofy:

It's a great bike. If I could only have one in the garage, it would be the '07.

I have to admit that I have been slacking on my project this summer. This is mainly due to my new 2007 CRF450R.

[image: Posted Image]

Anyway, I have finally pulled the engine off of my bike.

[image: Posted Image]

I am planning on having the frame ready for powder coat in September!!!

If money is an issue and you just want to get rolling for now, try swapping the spent rear shock oil out for some stiffer fluid. Worked wonders on my buddys kR. It's not a performance upgrade, more of a refresher but will get you by.

You can read more here. http://www.one-ring....q/vfseries.html

get ready to coat the inside of that tank and make it new again.

Well, I may go with the CBR Mod or a new shock the Seb suggested in another thread.

I had thought my tank was in good shape upto date (I did not see any rust in it). Fortunately, I owned the bike since 87, and it has mostly lived in Colorado (low humidity). Anyway, I don't want to leave anything out, what is the process for coating the inside of the tank?

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Aug 16 2008, 08:18 PM, said:

Well, I may go with the CBR Mod or a new shock the Seb suggested in another thread.

I had thought my tank was in good shape upto date (I did not see any rust in it). Fortunately, I owned the bike since 87, and it has mostly lived in Colorado (low humidity). Anyway, I don't want to leave anything out, what is the process for coating the inside of the tank?

my process/johotogame is:

take tank off.
remove everything (gaskets, fuel lever thing, gas cap, petcock)
take to radiator shop
pay them to cuss at getting your tank boiled out and coating it with REDKOTE. <--- this is what i was told to use. sources say that kreem is bad.
pay them for cussing at your tank but you know they did it right,
profit.

im stuck at the 3rd step because the radiator shop was closed today when i finished taking everything out. Georgia is good for rust jsut so you know. i can see the inside is rusted pretty bad. i hope it is fixable, if not then im gonna have to do what i can to fix it and ride it out until i can find another tank. the only one i found was on ebay and it was liek 140 bucks in bad shape. dings/rust/just really bad.

Very cool. I am not at the Gas Tank phase. I figure after I pay for powder coating of the frame (I am going to try and match stock silver), my $$$going for suspension. I want a better rear shock and rebuild the fors with cartridge emulators.

Hope everything is going well! I just moved to Denver myself. I just went through my 700, and did fork seals, brakes, re-braced the fairing, and stuff like that. I'd love to get out for a ride to ten before the snow falls. . . . Let me know when you are able to go and ride. - MotoMax

Great, welcome to Colorado!!!! Let's keep in touch, I am hoping to have my bike up and running by Spring (at least in riding condition). Partly, due to my budget, and the things I want to do to the bike. For now, I will have to remain on the dirt.

[image: View Post]iamdyslexic, on Aug 16 2008, 07:02 PM, said:

my process/johotogame is:

take tank off.
remove everything (gaskets, fuel lever thing, gas cap, petcock)
take to radiator shop
pay them to cuss at getting your tank boiled out and coating it with REDKOTE. <--- this is what i was told to use. sources say that kreem is bad.
pay them for cussing at your tank but you know they did it right,
profit.

im stuck at the 3rd step because the radiator shop was closed today when i finished taking everything out. Georgia is good for rust jsut so you know. i can see the inside is rusted pretty bad. i hope it is fixable, if not then im gonna have to do what i can to fix it and ride it out until i can find another tank. the only one i found was on ebay and it was liek 140 bucks in bad shape. dings/rust/just really bad.


I found a good article dated back to 1998 in regards to cleaning out and lining tanks (in fact it is Intercpetor related also ). Here it is.

Subject: Fuel Tank repair - POR-15 report
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:31:43 -0500

Hey all,

Update on my rescued Interceptor. I just finished prepping the tank. I DID NOT
use crappy Kream. Read on.

The Interceptor I've rescued had sat outside with 1/3 a tank of gas for about
a year and a half. The internals were definitely rusty though still tight w/o
leaks. I needed to do something about the internals but didn't want to use
Kream (because it is not a permanent fix and the problems it can cause when it
decides to go are *NOT* fun.) My work with restoring my 1970 Chevelle SS had
brought me in touch with a company called Restomotive who produce a product
called POR-15. This stuff is amazing. All the resto rags rave and car related
Internet sites are a-buzz about it. When used properly, it stops rust *DEAD*.
It forms a super hard surface that is very hard to scratch or chip. Even my
Evil Twin Joey (the ToeCutter) Thorne, who works on boats, knew about POR-15
and had favorable things to say about it. If a rust repair product can work
properly in a Marine/Saltwater environment than it has GOT to be good. Awhile
ago, I found a tank prep product kit in their catalog. I have been very happy
with other products of theirs, so I have been waiting for an opportunity to
try this one. Hey, they even show a V65 Sabre's tank in the catalog. I think
that this is a sign.

The kit contains: Marine=Clean (a water based, alkaline cleaner/degreaser,
supposedly environmentally friendly but I wouldn't let it sit on your skin for
very long), Metal Ready (a mildly acidic solution which completely turns rust
into a neutral Zinc Phosphate. Much nicer to work with than the highly acidic
hydrochloric solution in the Kream kit. Also, Metal Ready can be saved and
reused.), Tank Sealer (which reminds me of POR-15 Silver), a piece of cloth
and a disposable brush (to repair pin holes and leaking seams, which I did not
need to use, so I cannot vouch for.) A heavy duty version of the kit also has
a step that will completely remove a previous tank lining like Kream.

Use of the kit is not as quick as using Kream. YOU MUST TAKE YOUR TIME! If you
follow the directions given to you by POR-15 and the suggestions I've outlined
here you should be okay.

Cleaning the tank:
Seal all openings and vent tubes on the tank. Duct tape is suggested, but it
kept coming off of the two large openings on my tank due to LOTs of water. I
improvised by slipping the gas cap into a surgical glove and installing it the
way it would normally go to seal the top hole. luckily had a large cork the
size of the fuel gauge sending unit hole to seal that as well. Using the
Marine=Clean, mix one part cleaner and one part boiling water. Pour into tank
and then seal it tight. I aggitated the solution in the tank by gently rocking
it back and forth. Rock and roll. Rock and roll. Make sure the cleaner gets
everywhere. The cleaner needs to be in the tank for at least 24 hours, more
for heavily varnished or dirty interiors. I would aggitate for about 20
minutes, and then let it sit for an hour or two. Then I'd aggitate some more
and let it sit again, but in a different position than before. After 24+ hours
I dumped the cleaner out and flushed liberally with water. I used my bathtub
as I don't have good access to an open area w/ a hose. Your wives or SO may
kill you for this as it's messy, but not damaging. Flush it well. You want to
remove as much alkaline solution as possible for the next step, which is more acidic.

Rust destruction/ "etching":
When I say etching I don't mean like the extremely harsh Kream method. Metal
Ready is techincally acidic, but pretty mild in comparison to the Kream Kit's
(Phosphoric or Hydrochloric Acid?) Metal Ready's main job is to CONVERT rust
to a neutral Zinc Phosphate. Any etching properties are pretty minor. Metal
Ready takes about 30 minutes to work for a tank in the condition of mine.
Heavy rust will take longer. Again I'd aggitate the tank/solution in a slow
rocking motion. Turning and rocking and rolling and turning. Watch a movie
that you know by heart when you do this. I watched Mad Max again. When the
tank is done, remember that you can reuse Metal Ready, so I syphoned it out of
the tank. Again, flush liberally with water. You should see black flakes of
particulate now instead of rust colored. That is the zinc phosphate coverted rust.

********THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP*********
Okay, you're pretty excited now that the rust is gone. The job is going well
and you want to keep the momentum going. Before you go pouring the sealant
into the tank STOP! The tank **MUST** be absolutely bone dry. POR-15 cures
with water. If a single drop of water (or sweat) drops into your pint can of
POR-15 while you are working THE WHOLE FREAKING CAN IS WASTED!
This tank sealant is the same.

After the flushing out from the Metal Ready step I again syphoned out as much
of the water still trapped in the tank as I possible could. Letting the tank
sit in the sun won't dry it. Letting it sit for 10 weeks won't dry it. You
need to introduce warm moving air to dry the internals. I removed all the tape
and stuff sealing the various holes on the tank. I set the tank up with a hair
dryer set on low w/ heat blowing into the main hole. I left it blowing warm
air into the tank for around 4 hours. The next day I let it blow warm air in
half hour intervals about 3 or 4 times. Then, when I was ready to seal the
tank, I let it blow cool air for an additional 2 hours. I may have overdone
the air thing, but I wanted to take no chances. I wanted this done right.

Sealing the tank:
After the hairdryer this step seems anti-climatic. I resealed the openings,
this time merely with duct tape. I poured the contents of the sealant can into
the tank. It is the consitency of paint with a heavy fumes. DO NOT GET THIS
STUFF ON ANYTHING ELSE. If you do wipe it off IMMEDIATELY. It won't
come off once dry. I'm serious. Wear gloves, because you'll be wearing a for
weeks if you don't. Ordinary paint thinners do not work with it. It can be thinned
with the POR-15 specific thinner (not availible in this kit as there is no need for
it.) Aggitate the tank again in slow motions allowing time for the POR-15 to
coat the interior. I took about 45 minutes to be sure. On my tank there was no
easy way to get the excess POR-15 out due to a collar around the interior of
the main fillng hole. I used a turkey baister to remove the excess. I also
blew compressed air into any small diameter tubes/holes to be sure that I
don't develop a restriction or clog due to a cured POR-15 blockage. I set the
tank aside to dry/cure. A well ventilated area is a must for this. I installed
an exhaust fan in my bathroom window and let the tank sit in there for the
night while the most fumes were present. I also let the tank sit upside down
so that any excess POR-15 that I couldn't remove would puddle in the air
pocket that is always present, even in a full tank of gas so my fuel capacity
wouldn't be effected. If you have leaks at the seams of your tank, you might
want to consider letting the POR-15 cure so that it puddles into these areas,
sealing them forever. The tank is fully cured and ready for gas after 4 days.
Mine is completed now with a ROCKING coating ready to go.

So that is how it went. It is a time consuming process. It is not *DOWN AND
DIRTY* quick and easy. but guaranteed, if you do it right you'll never have to
do it again. While not being difficult it is also not "simple". You do need to
take your time and be careful, especially to fully dry the tank with warm
moving air. You *CANNOT* be in a rush. Leave about a week of off and on work
to complete the task. But the results are worth it. If this coating/finish is
anything like the other POR-15 products I've used that nothing short of an
A-Bomb will effect it. This is the only permanent fix I know of short of
buying a new tank. At the price of $29.95 and a week's worth of time I'd say
it is worth it.

here's the info: (full online catalog.)

http://www.por15.com

RestoMotive Laboratories
Division of Por-15, Incorporated
P.O. Box 1235
Morristown, New Jersey 07962-1235

TOLL-FREE: 1-800-457-6715
In NJ: 973-887-1999
Fax: 973-887-8007

MAIN OFFICE: M-F 9-5 EST

Looking for suggestions. I will be ready in Sept to powder coat the frame and various pieces (brackets, kickstands etc).

Here are my goals:
- Try to match original frame paint
- Keep the badge
- Match the original black

I was thinking of dremmling off the badge (carefully), and having posts welded on, to re-rivet the badge back on after powder coating.

Any ideas of matching the frame paint and the black for powder coating? Thanks for any suggestions.

I'm planning to use thin double sided tape *or* rubber cement to put my badge back on, I've got some small solid rivets I can glue in there for looks too.

No idea what exact silver will match, best bet is to go to the shop you want to have do the work, they will usually have sample parts or at least color cards you can look at.

What black are you trying to match? The triples? Satin black works pretty well IMO. Paint or powder.

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Aug 29 2008, 09:39 PM, said:

I'm planning to use thin double sided tape *or* rubber cement to put my badge back on, I've got some small solid rivets I can glue in there for looks too.

No idea what exact silver will match, best bet is to go to the shop you want to have do the work, they will usually have sample parts or at least color cards you can look at.

What black are you trying to match? The triples? Satin black works pretty well IMO. Paint or powder.


I am looking at having these powder coated. My assumption was that the original black on the triple, kickstands and forks were all the same black color. Back in the early nineties I painted the clip-ons in Satin (from a can of Krylon), and it did not match. In looking at various websites on powder coating, like you said there are many samples and color options.

As far as the badge goes, I may experiment with a buddy of mine that does welding on the side with scrap pieces. If I can "make" a fixed rivet, I think that would be cool. I have been talking to a lot of people collecting ideas. So my test plan on a piece of scrap is to tack 2 small posts of metal rod grind to about 1/8th". Then place a dummy badge, and hammer down using a dull awl, though some rubber cement or something might be good, in case I can't get it tight enough.

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Aug 30 2008, 12:09 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Aug 29 2008, 09:39 PM, said:

I'm planning to use thin double sided tape *or* rubber cement to put my badge back on, I've got some small solid rivets I can glue in there for looks too.

No idea what exact silver will match, best bet is to go to the shop you want to have do the work, they will usually have sample parts or at least color cards you can look at.

What black are you trying to match? The triples? Satin black works pretty well IMO. Paint or powder.


I am looking at having these powder coated. My assumption was that the original black on the triple, kickstands and forks were all the same black color. Back in the early nineties I painted the clip-ons in Satin (from a can of Krylon), and it did not match. In looking at various websites on powder coating, like you said there are many samples and color options.

As far as the badge goes, I may experiment with a buddy of mine that does welding on the side with scrap pieces. If I can "make" a fixed rivet, I think that would be cool. I have been talking to a lot of people collecting ideas. So my test plan on a piece of scrap is to tack 2 small posts of metal rod grind to about 1/8th". Then place a dummy badge, and hammer down using a dull awl, though some rubber cement or something might be good, in case I can't get it tight enough.


I have a few extra steel rivets I can send you, if you want to try my idea and just glue it all in place. You will have to drill to #40(.098") to let them fit, I can toss a small drill bit in the same envelope for the cost of a stamp, just lemme know via PM.

I found that XO Rust and Rustoleum Satin Black spray cans matched my satin black powder very well.

Not sure how easy it is to tell in these pics, but the frame is PC'd, while the brake torque arm and rear shock link "drumsticks" are painted satin.
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Aug 30 2008, 12:21 PM, said:

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Aug 30 2008, 12:09 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Aug 29 2008, 09:39 PM, said:

I'm planning to use thin double sided tape *or* rubber cement to put my badge back on, I've got some small solid rivets I can glue in there for looks too.

No idea what exact silver will match, best bet is to go to the shop you want to have do the work, they will usually have sample parts or at least color cards you can look at.

What black are you trying to match? The triples? Satin black works pretty well IMO. Paint or powder.


I am looking at having these powder coated. My assumption was that the original black on the triple, kickstands and forks were all the same black color. Back in the early nineties I painted the clip-ons in Satin (from a can of Krylon), and it did not match. In looking at various websites on powder coating, like you said there are many samples and color options.

As far as the badge goes, I may experiment with a buddy of mine that does welding on the side with scrap pieces. If I can "make" a fixed rivet, I think that would be cool. I have been talking to a lot of people collecting ideas. So my test plan on a piece of scrap is to tack 2 small posts of metal rod grind to about 1/8th". Then place a dummy badge, and hammer down using a dull awl, though some rubber cement or something might be good, in case I can't get it tight enough.


I have a few extra steel rivets I can send you, if you want to try my idea and just glue it all in place. You will have to drill to #40(.098") to let them fit, I can toss a small drill bit in the same envelope for the cost of a stamp, just lemme know via PM.

I found that XO Rust and Rustoleum Satin Black spray cans matched my satin black powder very well.

Not sure how easy it is to tell in these pics, but the frame is PC'd, while the brake torque arm and rear shock link "drumsticks" are painted satin.
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]


Holy crap man, this looks awesome! Did you buy the chain guide/swingarm protector new? This looks brand new! Now you got me motivated to begin the work.

[image: View Post]St�phane, on Aug 30 2008, 12:28 PM, said:

Holy crap man, this looks awesome! Did you buy the chain guide/swingarm protector new? This looks brand new! Now you got me motivated to begin the work.

Not at all, those are all 23-25 year old parts that I've meticulously cleaned or restored. Lest you forget, this bike has under 3000 original miles on it, most of the parts inside the bike were easy to clean up.

See my thread "My 1983 VF750F Restoration" for more motivation... :fing02:

EDIT: Here's a link to the thread: Seb's 750 restoration

Holy cr@p is right. That looks great!!!! I can only hope that mine looks that good when I get to that stage. That is some impressive work.

I have been trying to find a chain slider myself, just haven't come across one. I missed a brand new swingarm and chain slider on Fle-bay for $20.
Anyway, I think you talked me into the works shock. I will talk to you about the rivets on PM.

What kind of suggestions do you have in preparing the frame for powder coat (I am worried about threads etc) or is this something a good powder coat shop will help out with?

A good PC shop will dip the frame in a cleaning solution to remove all the grease and crap from the frame. After they dry it, they should be glass or sand blasting the frame. After that, they should be inserting rubber or silicone plugs into all the threaded and machined openings, to keep from clogging the threads.

You will want to buy a tap & die set, because the media blasting will make installing fasteners a pain. I'm sure you can buy the set for less than they or anyone else would charge you to do it. I got mine at Sears for under $100, IIRC. Well worth the money.

Instead of trying to get them all, I just tap the holes and run the bolts through the dies before I install each. Takes an extra couple minutes per fastener, but it makes it so easy to install. :fing02:

Wahoo!!! My frame just got back from the Powder Coaters!!!!

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

As I took the bike apart, I have to say I am glad I am doing this. I found many loose bolts, etc. This way when I get the girl back on the road, I know she will be in good shape.

Very nice! :fing02: :fing02:

Perfect timing, winter is almost here!

Any thoughts on the Steering Bearings.

I have the original bearing races. There is some rust on them, but not bad. Should I try and buff them out, and re-use, or would it be better to find some new ones. What about the bearings, should I go with with OEM?

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Oct 11 2008, 10:41 PM, said:

Any thoughts on the Steering Bearings.

I have the original bearing races. There is some rust on them, but not bad. Should I try and buff them out, and re-use, or would it be better to find some new ones. What about the bearings, should I go with with OEM?


All Balls sir, use All Balls. They make very nice stuff, and for $29, why not put the new ones in?

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 11 2008, 09:15 PM, said:

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Oct 11 2008, 10:41 PM, said:

Any thoughts on the Steering Bearings.

I have the original bearing races. There is some rust on them, but not bad. Should I try and buff them out, and re-use, or would it be better to find some new ones. What about the bearings, should I go with with OEM?


All Balls sir, use All Balls. They make very nice stuff, and for $29, why not put the new ones in?



"It's all Ball Bearings, today!!!" I am proceeding accordingly!!!!!

I will be starting on rebuilding my forks next. However, in the mean-time, started cleaning up my motor.

[image: Posted Image]

The head covers will need polishing, and I need to do the oil mod. I was thinking of doing these once I get the motor into the frame.

Do it now, while it's out. You'll never have a more convienient opportunity! S100 Engine Brightener is the shizzle for gloss black motors, it's pricey, but I'll swear by it from now on!

I put my motor on a cart, wheeled it outside, and proceeded to scrub it with an assortment of brushes and hot water/Dawn dish liquid. Rinse/scrub/rinse/scrub...(tape everything off first!) Dried it, then hit it with the S100, it looks brand spankin new!

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 13 2008, 04:29 AM, said:

Do it now, while it's out. You'll never have a more convienient opportunity! S100 Engine Brightener is the shizzle for gloss black motors, it's pricey, but I'll swear by it from now on!

I put my motor on a cart, wheeled it outside, and proceeded to scrub it with an assortment of brushes and hot water/Dawn dish liquid. Rinse/scrub/rinse/scrub...(tape everything off first!) Dried it, then hit it with the S100, it looks brand spankin new!

That sounds good. I started removing the years of grease by using WD-40, a toothbrush, and paper towels.

There had to be at least a 1/4 inch or more of the heaviest grease I have ever seen by the front sprocket. I did this with the swingarm, and it came out looking almost new.

Now I can clean with soap and water like you suggest.

I pulled the triangular mounts from my motor because I noticed they were bent just a little, and wouldn't ya know it, I snapped off one of the frikken bolts on the motor. :pissed:

ps- a green scotch brite pad(pot scrubber) will bring your fins back to a nice brushed finish. :fing02:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 14 2008, 05:12 AM, said:

I pulled the triangular mounts from my motor because I noticed they were bent just a little, and wouldn't ya know it, I snapped off one of the frikken bolts on the motor. :pissed:


Ouch!!!! Roten Luck, I hate these kind of delays. I was able to straighten out my triangular mounts before powder coatings. Fortunately, I have not had to deal with the snapped off bolts.

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 14 2008, 05:13 AM, said:

ps- a green scotch brite pad(pot scrubber) will bring your fins back to a nice brushed finish. :fing02:

That is a good thought. I had used a fine grain Wet/Dry Sandpaper on one side. This seemed to work well.

When I clean the engine, with soap/H2O, I will try the scotch brite pad.

A

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Oct 14 2008, 12:21 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 14 2008, 05:12 AM, said:

I pulled the triangular mounts from my motor because I noticed they were bent just a little, and wouldn't ya know it, I snapped off one of the frikken bolts on the motor. :pissed:


Ouch!!!! Roten Luck, I hate these kind of delays. I was able to straighten out my triangular mounts before powder coatings. Fortunately, I have not had to deal with the snapped off bolts.



The bike hasn't been on the road since 1984... might have something to do with it... :rolleyes:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 14 2008, 10:32 AM, said:

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Oct 14 2008, 12:21 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 14 2008, 05:12 AM, said:

I pulled the triangular mounts from my motor because I noticed they were bent just a little, and wouldn't ya know it, I snapped off one of the frikken bolts on the motor. :pissed:


Ouch!!!! Roten Luck, I hate these kind of delays. I was able to straighten out my triangular mounts before powder coatings. Fortunately, I have not had to deal with the snapped off bolts.



The bike hasn't been on the road since 1984... might have something to do with it... :rolleyes:


I don't know why, but I have always used WD-40 to shine up my bike. Though it attracts dust, I think it really kept problems like this at bay.

Don't know what's in WD-40.....but I LIKE IT!!! :wacko:

Honda polish would be a better idea... but Pledge is cheaper and does about the same thing.

Started working on my engine. Pulled off the Valve Covers, and started to spruce 'em up a bit.


Started by stripping the old clear coat off utilizing a paint stripper.
[image: Posted Image]

I then utilize 320 wet/dry sand paper to remove any minor blemishes. I added a 6" buffer wheel to my bench grinder and went to work. I will have to get some of the smaller areas with my dremmel tool.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]


Once done and fully cleaned up, I will try the Eastwood Diamond Clear Metal Aerosol.

Looks nice! :fing02:

I'm still messing with that broken bolt...

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Jan 5 2009, 07:54 PM, said:

Looks nice! :fing02:

I'm still messing with that broken bolt...

LOL, That and all your other projects. Speaking of... I like your "HonDucSki"!!

Good luck with bolt!!

A

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Oct 11 2008, 07:07 PM, said:

Wahoo!!! My frame just got back from the Powder Coaters!!!!


[image: Posted Image]


Do you know what the name of the color silver they used? Looks a good match for the stock frame paint.

[image: View Post]VF1000RS, on Jan 5 2009, 10:10 PM, said:

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Oct 11 2008, 07:07 PM, said:

Wahoo!!! My frame just got back from the Powder Coaters!!!!


[image: Posted Image]


Do you know what the name of the color silver they used? Looks a good match for the stock frame paint.



I will take a look at my records. When I looked at the samples in the daylight, it was the closest match performing a match.

It was a two step powder process, one for the silver and one for the flake.

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Jan 5 2009, 11:06 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Jan 5 2009, 07:54 PM, said:

Looks nice! :fing02:

I'm still messing with that broken bolt...

LOL, That and all your other projects. Speaking of... I like your "HonDucSki"!!

Good luck with bolt!!

A


Thanks, I need it!

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Jan 6 2009, 11:31 AM, said:

[image: View Post]VF1000RS, on Jan 5 2009, 10:10 PM, said:

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Oct 11 2008, 07:07 PM, said:

Wahoo!!! My frame just got back from the Powder Coaters!!!!


[image: Posted Image]


Do you know what the name of the color silver they used? Looks a good match for the stock frame paint.



I will take a look at my records. When I looked at the samples in the daylight, it was the closest match performing a match.

It was a two step powder process, one for the silver and one for the flake.


Supplier: Prismatic
Color: Crushed Silver
Color #: PMB-1544

Prismatic Powders can be found at For Primatic Powders

Hope this helps!!!

Thanks for the info.

Son of gun! Those valve covers sure look good! I tried the same thing, but did not strip the clearcoat off of the covers first. I thought it was some anodizing and did not try the oven cleaner trick to remove it as I thought it would buff through. Came out rather blotchy, but now I will definitely have to revisit the polishing.

Did you use coarse or medium compound? Any wetsanding with 600 grit or so?

Frame looks good, too. Cheers! How's the oiling mod coming?

[image: View Post]Sparrow75, on Jan 7 2009, 02:49 PM, said:

Son of gun! Those valve covers sure look good! I tried the same thing, but did not strip the clearcoat off of the covers first. I thought it was some anodizing and did not try the oven cleaner trick to remove it as I thought it would buff through. Came out rather blotchy, but now I will definitely have to revisit the polishing.

Did you use coarse or medium compound? Any wetsanding with 600 grit or so?

Frame looks good, too. Cheers! How's the oiling mod coming?

Thanks, appreciate that.

Process was easier then I thought.
- Utilized the paint stripper Klean-Strip
- Let sit for 30-45 minutes
- With protect gloves and goggles ;-) (safety first), cleaned off using Steel wool (SOS pads)
- For deep scratches, marks funky patterns, I used 320 grit wet/dry sand paper
- afixed a 6" buffer wheel to my bench grinder, and uses buffing compound for Aluminum and other soft metals
Compound
- Things buffed up easier then I thought
- I used a drill wheel for the area by the spark plug
- Am planning on final touch up with the dremmel tool
- Cleaner then new clear coat for protection

Exhaust Options:

I have two ways to go:
1 - I have found a Super Trapp exhaust system. Needs to be blasted and re-coating.
a - Hassel with a small dent
b - Sand blast and coat, and have to deal with the loose brackets

OR

2 - Go with the original stock exhaust collectors, and fix/clean-up the Super Trapp slip-ons
a - Have a decent collector (almost new)

What are your opinions, below are some picts of the Super Trapp system.


Not sure how they get around the loose bracket, will look into that
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

There is one small dent that may or may not need to be resolved....
[image: Posted Image]

Cut out the section with the dent, peen it back into a curve, weld back in, smooth it and the weld with a flapper wheel on a grinder. Blast and recoat. Or find someone with one of those stud welders: weld a small stud to the dent, pull it out with a slide hammer.

Not sure what you mean by loose brackets? If it`s the flanges that fit to the exhaust studs, they are meant to be loose. Put the exhaust into position, move the flanges up over the exhaust studs, put the nuts on and tighten so the flanges press the collars up against the exhaust ports. Use new exhaust gaskets.

OK, Sometimes it is the little things in life that make it fun!!! I read somewhere about fixing dents by filling the pipe with water, then freezing it!!

Yesterday, (it was snowing in Colorado), before work I filled the pipe with water and put it outside. When I got home, the pipe still had a dent in it, I ignored it, and figured I would put it away later in the week.

Over night, the temps dropped the ice expanded, and the dent pop'ed out!!!!!! (I will post and after picture for tracking sakes) Wahoo, now to blasting.....

BTW, my concerns about the flanges were not in regards to installing the pipes, but more aligned with the coaters freezing the flanges in the coating. I have it my head that when they coat the pipes, that the flanges would not be able to rotate around to meet the exhaust studs. I am sure that the coaters have a way aournd this?

If they are a good powdercoater, they will know what to do. Had my custom header pipes done by Jet-Hot inside and out. Flanges rotate just fine.

[image: View Post]VF1000RS, on Jan 13 2009, 12:41 PM, said:

If they are a good powdercoater, they will know what to do. Had my custom header pipes done by Jet-Hot inside and out. Flanges rotate just fine.

You know, I was thinking about getting my rear headers done by them. Will they prep them also? I want the sterling for the stock look. Though for the Super Trapps I am think semi-Gloss black. Not sure if the sterling would look good. Thoughts?

Here is the pipe before and after the ice fix....

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Nice!

My exhaust just got back from Ceramic Coating!!!!!!!!

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]


I have also made some headway with the oil mod....
At this point, I am still planning on using the original oil lines to a certain point.

[image: Posted Image]

Man, that exhaust looks great! I definitely know how I'm doing my next exhaust. How did it do hiding some of the pitting?

Good job! Can't wait to see more.

Mike.

[image: View Post]Captain 80s, on Feb 12 2009, 09:42 PM, said:

Man, that exhaust looks great! I definitely know how I'm doing my next exhaust. How did it do hiding some of the pitting?

Good job! Can't wait to see more.

Mike.

Thanks, there was definitely some noticeable pitting under the coating, but not as bad as I expected (and mostly where they were underthe bike)!! The ends don't show any pitting (that was where there was the least rust). The rear headers and heat plate came out better then I expected, and will match the aluminum valve covers better.

Looking good, Austin. Can't wait to see her in person when she's done.

Dirk

Oil Mod:

After seeing the work that Sparrow75 did with his Mod, I decided to look into incorporating a hard oil line. I notice that the original oil line in the reverse seemed to work if I spliced in some fittings.

[image: Posted Image]

Reading the various links provided by members here at VFRD, most suggested utilizing AN fittings with braided hoses.

For the Engine Block, I tapped the new hole with a 1/8th NPT Tap. Started with a 1/8th pilot hole, followed with a 11/32� drill size. Tapped the hole, and was careful not to go to far past the oil cavity.

[image: Posted Image]

I used a 1/8th NPT to AN-4 male to male adapter and a female to male AN-4 90-degree fitting that will ultimately connect to the hard line.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]


Since I wanted to utilize steel lines, I went to the nearest Auto shop and bought a steel break line, and some fittings. I found out that the fittings often used for brake lines is an SAE 45-degree taper. AN fittings utilize a 37-degree taper

It is important Note that 37� AN and 45� SAE fittings and tooling are not interchangeable due to the different flaring angles. Mixing them can cause leakage at the flare.

Now I began to fit the original oil line into the Mod. This picture depicts my first plans, I may change the 90-degree AN-4 coupler to a straight couple (if I can make the 37-degree taper close enough to the straight fitting to make it around the engine).

[image: Posted Image]

I cut the original oil line, added the female AN-4 fitting, and then completed a 37-degree taper.

The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification stemming from a joint standard agreed upon by the Army and Navy, hence AN. The standard is sometimes mistakenly referred to as "Air Force-Navy", but it dates back to World War Two, before there was a separate US Air Force.

National Pipe Thread (NPT) - The taper on NPT threads allows them to form a seal when torqued as the flanks of the threads compress against each other, as opposed to parallel/straight thread fittings or compression fittings in which the threads merely hold the pieces together and do not provide the seal. However a clearance remains between the crests and roots of the threads, resulting in a leakage around this spiral. This means that NPT fittings must be made leak free with the aid of thread seal tape or a thread sealant compound. (The use of tape or sealant will also help to limit corrosion on the threads, which otherwise can make future disassembly nearly impossible.). Again, a different fitting then both AN and BPT

I added the AN-4 fitting with a 37-degree taper, to 1/4� steel line, and then began to bend it around the front of the engine. Once I had most of the shape, I performed the final cut to that ran into the botton 90-degree fitting, added the AN-4 female fitting, and completed the 37-degree taper.

Here are picture with the completed line:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Pretty cool. Just check the clearance from the frame to the 90 degree fitting at the main gallery, if it clears, great, if it touches the frame there are low-profile 90`s you can use. If you already checked it and it clears, disregard this...I probably missed it...

Making some more headway, still looking for a rubber gasket for the waterpump. I may end up having to have it made.


I changed the Mod just sligthly:

I moved the fitting to a straignt for better access from the side of the bike:

[image: Posted Image]

I could not use the low proflile 90-degree NPT to AN-4 adapter, and stuck with the orignal. The Mod is not touching the frame (barely):

[image: Posted Image]

I put on my new shock from Jamie Daugherty (Can't wait to try that out):

[image: Posted Image]


Other Pics:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

here is a diagram / cut away of the VF750F you may like to copy. I had it blown up into a poster for the wall.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...i&img=27499

[image: View Post]Nailer45, on Mar 7 2009, 04:34 AM, said:

here is a diagram / cut away of the VF750F you may like to copy. I had it blown up into a poster for the wall.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...i&img=27499


Thanks. You know...this would also make a great T-Shirt!!! Hmmm.

Nice progress! :fing02: :fing02:

Can you take a pic of the bottom of the motor, to show where you drilled for the NPT?

I'm doing mine today, another reference point wouldn't hurt!

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Mar 7 2009, 08:11 AM, said:

Nice progress! :fing02: :fing02:

Can you take a pic of the bottom of the motor, to show where you drilled for the NPT?

I'm doing mine today, another reference point wouldn't hurt!

When I drill, I noticed a little target at the approximate center of that nub. That is where I drilled the first pilot hole. If I were to do it again, I would move it 1/8 to 3/16th of an inch closer to the engine block. From this picture, you can see that there is plenty of space to move it closer to the engine block. Currently I have about 1/16th of an inch of space between the frame and my fittings.

I aplogize for the not so clear image (I took multiple shots), but this will give you an good reference.

[image: Posted Image]

Thanks!

Curious as to why the low profile adapter wouldn`t fit?

[image: View Post]VF1000RS, on Mar 7 2009, 04:27 PM, said:

Curious as to why the low profile adapter wouldn`t fit?

The tapped hole must have been to close to the engine block. I could not make a full turn, as it caught on the engine block!

I think that fitting has a swivel at the base to circumvent that issue?

I've got decent clearance thanks to offsetting the hole I drilled. I'll get the rest of the fitting on in a bit and post more pics in my thread.

[image: View Post]VF1000RS, on Mar 8 2009, 11:15 AM, said:

I think that fitting has a swivel at the base to circumvent that issue?
The fittng that I received did not have a swivel. I reviewed many, but did not find one. Since I have about 1/16th" of clearance, you think that is enough?

A

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Mar 8 2009, 04:07 PM, said:

I've got decent clearance thanks to offsetting the hole I drilled. I'll get the rest of the fitting on in a bit and post more pics in my thread.

Excellent, always appreciate your work!!!

Just received my Carbs back from Billy!!! They look great!!

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Now I just need new springs for my forks, new rear sproket, new chain, and an o-ring for the water pump cover. This, along with rebuilding the calipers will put her back on the road!!

Things have been moving somewhat slow... Family, work, and my new toy (2005 Ducati 999)!!!! Still making headway though!!!

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Mar 8 2009, 10:09 PM, said:

Since I have about 1/16th" of clearance, you think that is enough?

A


As long as it`s not touching you will be fine.

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on Jun 2 2009, 12:01 AM, said:

Just received my Carbs back from Billy!!! They look great!!

[image: Posted Image]

Now I just need new springs for my forks, new rear sproket, new chain, and an o-ring for the water pump cover. This, along with rebuilding the calipers will put her back on the road!!

Things have been moving somewhat slow... Family, work, and my new toy (2005 Ducati 999)!!!! Still making headway though!!!

I never get tired of looking at my carbs! Aren't you glad you sent them out? :cool:

Quick tip for you - pull all the float bowls off and double check the float heights. I had to fine tune mine to spec(they get bounced around during shipping). Also double check your jet sizes.

Let us know how your brake rebuild goes - I'm about to do the same. That reminds me, gotta go pick those calipers up...



ps - post some pics of the Duc!! :cool:

Nice job on those carbs, and I've seen "Bill" mentioned before regarding them. Can somebody post his screen name please so I could find him, or send me a PM?

And your bike looks real good as is comes together Fanatic. :cool:

[image: View Post]VFDoug, on Jun 2 2009, 07:43 AM, said:

Nice job on those carbs, and I've seen "Bill" mentioned before regarding them. Can somebody post his screen name please so I could find him, or send me a PM?

And your bike looks real good as is comes together Fanatic. :cool:

Doug, his screen name is BillyC, but he's not a member here. You'll need to sign up over at www.V4hondabbs.com to get in touch with him. Or, you can also find him as fngster on ebay.

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Jun 2 2009, 04:30 AM, said:

I never get tired of looking at my carbs! Aren't you glad you sent them out? :cool:
Quick tip for you - pull all the float bowls off and double check the float heights. I had to fine tune mine to spec(they get bounced around during shipping). Also double check your jet sizes.
Let us know how your brake rebuild goes - I'm about to do the same. That reminds me, gotta go pick those calipers up...


ps - post some pics of the Duc!! :cool:

I have to fully concur. I was originally planning on rebuilding the carbs myself. After seeing the pictures of BillyC's work, I couldn't resist!!! Good point about the float heights, I will definitely check that out.
I also bought a carbtune synch once I get them back on the bike.

I'll post some pic sof the Duc!! I am still in awe on how this bike handles (fortunately the old girl and the Duc are getting along)

[image: View Post]VFDoug, on Jun 2 2009, 05:43 AM, said:

Nice job on those carbs, and I've seen "Bill" mentioned before regarding them. Can somebody post his screen name please so I could find him, or send me a PM?

And your bike looks real good as is comes together Fanatic. :cool:

Thanks, this has been a great project...returning her back to health!! I can't wait to take her out for a ride in the Mountains!!

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Jun 2 2009, 06:13 AM, said:

[image: View Post]VFDoug, on Jun 2 2009, 07:43 AM, said:

Nice job on those carbs, and I've seen "Bill" mentioned before regarding them. Can somebody post his screen name please so I could find him, or send me a PM?

And your bike looks real good as is comes together Fanatic. :cool:

Doug, his screen name is BillyC, but he's not a member here. You'll need to sign up over at www.V4hondabbs.com to get in touch with him. Or, you can also find him as fngster on ebay.



Thanks, Seb. I meant to find his contact information and post it! I was just excited to get the carbs back, and show them off!!

Here are Pics of my new motorcyle!!!

I had a great ride up through Coal Creek Canyon and back down Boulder Canyon!!!

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Thanks.

And very nice Duc!

Can I assume from the lack of updates, that the Duc is better than you imagined?

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 04 August 2009 - 06:00 AM, said:

Can I assume from the lack of updates, that the Duc is better than you imagined?

Yeaahhhnoooo. I have been very busy with work! I am back!

I have made some headway. Just ordered what I need to rebuild my breaks. I will post some updated picks in a couple of weeks!

Get to it!

[image: View Post]Kel, on 22 October 2010 - 09:32 PM, said:

Get to it!

LOL, on it!

- carbs installed
- forks rebuilt and on (new steering bearings, twice because of a mess up the first time)
Temp using the old springs, once I am ready to set the sag I will install the new springs
- stripped my clip on bars
- cleaned up the front tire and installed

Soon I will have a rolling chassis!

Finally, I have been able to start up again. Two road blocks, needed to redo the steering bearings and order parts for a break rebuild. I am reaaly glad I took the time to clean out and rebuild the break system. They were way dirtier then I expected, including the 'gunk' that seemed to coagulate in the system. I expect that they will work great once I get the bike back on the raod!!!

Referenced the schematic drawings and specs/torgue valures:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Before I got started, here is a quick snapshot of my front breaks...

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Started the breakdown of the calipers:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

The caliper sleeve was rusted out, so that was replaced on all three calipers. They are supposed to float, my were locked up!!

[image: Posted Image]

I used compressed air to remove the pistons. You need to be careful to put a towel or cloth down so that the pistons don't come flying out!

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Clean all the parts with break cleaner, then soap and water. I did a final cleaning of denatured alcahol.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]


[image: Posted Image]

I also clean and rebuilt the master cylinder

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]


[image: Posted Image]

Here is a comparison of where I am at in my project.
RT Front
[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]


RT Back
[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]

Top
[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]


Some other images of where I am at on my project.
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Much mo' bettah! :cool:

Nice!!

Looks like a BillyC carb job?

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 07 November 2010 - 07:41 PM, said:

Nice!!

Looks like a BillyC carb job?


You got it!!! He does a great job!!

That's looking really nice. :lurk:

[image: View Post]Kel, on 07 November 2010 - 10:58 PM, said:

That's looking really nice. :lurk:


Thanks! I only wish that after 2 years, it could be as nice as your project!!!!

Well, when rebuilding the rear caliper, I broke the quick bleeder off in the caliper, and when trying to fix it I destroyed the calip. Off to eBay. I have a Goel of 3 months of up and running. This won't include painting the plastics though.

I have just about two sets of plastics. I was thinking of one set fully stock and a second set as a race replica (number plates decals etc) I been looking at the old race Picts and there are some great examples.

[image: View Post]VFanatic, on 07 November 2010 - 07:58 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 07 November 2010 - 07:41 PM, said:

Nice!!

Looks like a BillyC carb job?


You got it!!! He does a great job!!



VFanatic

what was the turnaround time from Billy C for the carb rebuild if i might ask?

Thanks
fjsvf750

He had my carbs for a few weeks, add extra days for shipping. The delay at that time was because he had to get a new ultrasound machine. I do know he gets busy this time of year, so you will need to get with him. He is good at communicating with his customers.

I definitely recommend him!

I had mine done during a non-peak time, had mine back in a couple weeks.

Thanks Guys

Greatly appreciated!!

Finished the rear breaks and installed the rear exhaust!!!
[image: Posted Image]

Preparing to paint the stator cover, chain cover, oil pan and clip-ons
Need some opinions:

What color should I paint the clip-ons - Satin Black, Gold, Silver or???
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]