VFRDiscussion ARCHIVE / READ-ONLYREAD-ONLY

My 1983 Vf750f Restoration Project, Lotsa Big Pics!

149 posts Started 8 Feb 2008 Last recovered post 14 Dec 2014 Wayback Machine snapshot 10 Apr 2020

#1

[image: niceseat.jpg]

***I apologize, some of the pics are really big, please give it a minute to load entirely!***

Well, I couldn't hold back from posting any longer once I had the powdercoated parts in my hand. Now I can't help but let you guys in on the rest of the story!

So here it is, from the very beginning(yes, it's a saga!) :P

This poor old bike that currently sits (mostly) in boxes was bought new in 1983 in New Hampshire, and was ridden on the street and then on one track day at NHIS(Loudon). The owner went down because of a visor tear-off that was thrown on the track, and after that, the guy put 'her' in a corner of a barn. That was in 1984, after accumulating only 2,997 miles.

[image: July1st2007029.jpg]

Many years later(about 15!), said original owner sold the bike(to avoid giving it up during a divorce), to his neighbor, who is an ex-co-worker of mine. About 2 years after that, I bought my 700, and when I rode it to work for the first time, this guy started going nuts over how nice it was, and told me the story I just told you. Except he added that he was not sure if he wanted to keep it, because of the expense of a new clutch master cylinder... :beer:

Sooo... it became mine for the lovely sum of $300. :beer: I had all kinds of ideas at the time, but no garage, tools, or mechanical/working knowledge to speak of back then, so it sat around for a couple years, and I started disassembling it when I got my garage. Along the way, I came down with a terrible case of MBD(multiple bike disorder) and the bike took a back seat to "more important things" like my F4i and VTEC vfr, and since then have decided to restore it.

Here are the Polaroids that I saw before picking the bike up:

[image: 1983Resto.jpg]

[image: 1983Resto2.jpg]

The tank was pretty banged up, so I got a better one from Chev, and the frame was a little tweaked at the rear, which I've fixed. There were also two spots on the frame where water had gotten in(the guy I bought it from kept it outside for one winter), when the water froze, it expanded the tubes. I heated them up and hammered them flat, then ground them to make them nice. The motor ran 5 years ago from a beer bottle full of gas, and when I drained the fluids to pull the motor a while back, everything was clean.

Finally getting back into the project, I got the bike stripped down completely.

[image: Interceptor001.jpg]

[image: July1st2007020.jpg]

[image: July1st2007033.jpg]

Riding other bikes and life in general kept me away from it again until early this year, when I started fitting bodywork to it (going to adapt VF1000F side panels), and I noticed something was wrong here. :blink:

[image: 1-1-2008021.jpg]

Rough idea of the 1kF panels:

[image: 11-11-07018.jpg]

I knew the rear section had been repaired, but didn't realize it was this far off until I actually tried to bolt the tail on. It was pretty twisted! I took measurements on this frame and my good one, and determined that the damage was isolated at the very end of the frame, so, I decided it was time to "say hello to my little friend"! :salesman:

[image: 1-1-2008026-1.jpg]

A little zip here, and a little zag there - and viola! No more damage!(depending on how you look at it) :goofy:

[image: 1-1-2008027.jpg]

[image: 1-1-2008029.jpg]

[image: 1-1-2008033.jpg]

[image: 1-1-2008031.jpg]

[image: 1-1-2008034.jpg]

[image: 1-1-2008036.jpg]

I also took the liberty of chopping off the square-shaped rear rail mounts while I was at it, I thought that would be a nice touch to clean up the bike, and being they only hold the helmet lock and huge stock signals anyway(2 things I will NOT be using), in the trash they went! Thanks you Mr. Portable Bandsaw, hehe.

And yes, I cut up a good frame for the sake of having a numbers-matching bike that wasn't a true restoration anyway... :joystick: Call me crazy or keep reading!

Next up: weld it back together! Hiho, off to work I go, on a cold Saturday morning. Still saving up for my own TIG welder... with the bike habit, it's not going so well. :rolleyes:

[image: Frameweld1-5-08001.jpg]

[image: Frameweld1-5-08002.jpg]

[image: Frameweld1-5-08003.jpg]

After some creative grinding:

[image: Frameweld1-5-08005.jpg]

Which leads us to...

powdercoat!

Frame, swingarm, and VF1000R upper triple were done in Satin Black:

[image: 2-6-08004.jpg]

[image: 2-6-08005.jpg]

[image: 2-6-08006.jpg]

I'm upgrading to CBR F2 wheels, and had them coated in mirror white.

[image: 2-6-08011.jpg]

I have another clean rear wheel that's black and had the lips polished, I'll throw that on later and see how it looks in there.

Much more to come!!

#2

Cool thread....Great work...I'm not the most mechanically gifted and my project was tame compared to what you accomplished.[image: gallery_11915_3452_159350.jpg]

1984 Honda VF750 CA

#3
tharkunHey Seb......that BMW is still just sitting in the background...........

Yes, but - now it's back together. :D

It's my Dad's bike, he received it as a gift, and I was put in charge of cleaning it up. I touched up the frame, cleaned the outside of the motor, cleaned the carbs, put a new Dyna ignition on it, sandblasted and repainted the seat pan and battery tray, re-covered the seat(what a pain!), installed new left and right switch controls(what a pain!), new grips, new battery, new aftermarket OEM-style exhausts, and new Metzler tires. Also lubed all the cables and restored some assorted sun-toasted plastic.

I have two more small trim pieces to add to the seat, then it can be bolted back on. Right now it's just sitting on the battery tender, hiding from the snow. I'll do a little buffing on the paint come spring, but it will probably be getting a coat of black paint next winter.

Pops hasn't been on a bike in almost 30 years, I'm very excited to think that in a few months we'll be going out on our first ride together! :beer: He's been watching me have all the fun for the last 12 or so...

#4

Here's some shots of the motor. It's going to get a scrubbing and a nice new coat of gloss black paint. I'm also going to be polishing the valve covers, stator cover, and the bare circle on the clutch cover. Not the parts that are on there now, I have spares that are close to perfect.

[image: stuff008.jpg]

[image: stuff007.jpg]

It's quite possible that this is only the second oil filter ever installed...

[image: stuff009.jpg]

Only 2,997 miles on this lump, and it shows! Nice clean cams, only showing a teensy bit of wear:

[image: stuff004.jpg]

[image: stuff005.jpg]

I decided to install VF1000R forks on the bike, and a member here hooked me up! I have them all torn down at the moment also, they need a very thorough cleaning! They are getting RaceTech gold valve emulators, which requires removal of the TRAC anti-dive system, and Sonic springs. I'll also be welding shut the holes that line up with the air crossover under the upper triple. This will let me toss the crossover part and allow me to play with the height of the tubes in the forks. Lots of grease and grime removal, then a coat of black paint!

[image: PICT0204.jpg]

I can't really call this fluid, but this is the oily/goopy/grungy/yuck stuff that came out of the forks... :beer:

[image: PICT0206.jpg]

Another neat item on the mod list - I was inspired by this pic I found on the web to go on a hunt for a clear automotive head light to use(some of you may remember the post), well, I found out it's the same unit used in early '90s Chevy S-10s, H60something or other. I bought a pair, and member Chickenofthesea(Matt) and I split the cost. We might upgrade to HID together later this year!

[image: DSCF1094.jpg]

Enjoy. More posting when I can.

#5

Just wanted to add quickly, that there are quite a few members here who have had input or helped me in some way with this project. I'm not naming names yet, because I want you all to have the credit you deserve when this is all done.

For now though, THANK YOU!! :beer: :beer:

#6
AlaskanSEB, I have a 1984 VF750F. I was about to sell it into oblivion, but this thread has me thinking - why not pay homage to this fantastic old bike and pretty it up? One question - what's the financial damage going to be by the time you're done? That may be an uncomfortable question. If it is, sorry . . . . .

Not at all. I'm not really keeping a running tally at the moment, although I do have a bunch of receipts and numbers scattered about. If I wasn't getting performance cams and rockers, I could keep it under $3000, including the bike. If it sounds low, that's because I'm doing all the work myself, outside of the powdercoating and machining the rear hub(which I could do, but it happens to be more convenient to let someone else do it).

Keep in mind, I've been working on this bike for going on 6 years now, so I've had plenty of time to shop around. The big ticket items are the shock($500), G.V. Emulators($160), Accel ignition($130), Stage 2 cams and rockers($900), Vance & Hines full exhaust($200), set of F2 wheels with rotors, speedo drive, and hub($90 shipped, yes, smokin deal!!), Powdercoating frame, wheels, swingarm, and upper triple($200), VF1000R forks($100), and the gas tank with assorted bits and pieces like a full lock set that I got from Chev($150), NOS Maier dark smoke screen($35).

The bike itself cost me $300, every other item I've bought has been under $35, most under $20. Ebay is my friend!

I'm having fun dreaming of what the cockpit will look like when done, I've got a CBR1100XX Blackbird clutch master cylinder and 1998 VFR800 controls(w/choke) on the left, and a 2004 Yamaha R1 radial brake m/c with '06 CBR1000RR start/stop switch and 1993 CBR900RR throttle control on the right, all mounted on billet CBR600F3 racing clip-ons.

Another big item will be buying the bulk stainless steel lines and red & blue anodized fittings to make up the clutch and brake lines and the oil mod.

I already have a K&N air filter that was in my 700.

I also bought a CBR600F4i wiring harness, complete with reg/rectifier for $15 to rape relays and other plugs from(as well as the r/r).

Clear headlight was $12. Probably going to do Shock racing LED signals and an LED bulb in the taillight. Also want to do bar end mirrors.

I'm going to be doing the body and paintwork myself, including integrating the VF1000F side panels.

I have special plans for the exhaust(I'm not leaving ANYTHING alone!! lol!). I'll give you a hint, think of Rossi's GP bike.

Lots more that I'm sure I've forgotten, on top of everything being cleaner than new...

Lots of work to do!!!!!!!!!!

Oh yeah, tires! Avon Storms will run about $230-250, in 120/70-17 F, 160/70-17 rear. That reminds me, I have a new, gold 520 RK chain for it and will be going +1 on the rear sprocket, coupled w/ the new tire size will = +4(or thereabouts).

Let me hit "Submit" before I let too many more cats out of the bag... :joystick:

:goofy:

#7

Little update for today, I finally got to finish a set of spacers for the rear wheel today at work! Jamie Daugherty is setting me up with the milling and turning of the speedo drive and hub, and the parts should be back by the end of this coming week.

All the bearings are here, dust seals are here. Swingarm still needs some sanding of powdercoat in a few spots. Emulators should be in on Tuesday. I need to get a semi-large tub to soak & scrub the fork parts in, I wanted to use acetone but I'm thinking dish detergent & hot water first. Also need to do some touch-up grinding/surface refining on the lowers, then turn up the heat in the garage and give them a few coats of black paint.

Another nice piece of news, my seat is in Ohio at the moment getting a custom cover made by Wells Upholstery & Canvas, which is where theoxmole's(Dale) Mom works her sewing machine magic!

I sent them the seat, a spare tail cowl and this pic:

[image: niceseat.jpg]

We're working out the covering materials now, already set on the foam type & shape.

Can't wait to see the finished product! +1.gif

Gotta clear a spot in the garage probably tomorrow and set up my 2nd grinder with a wire wheel and a buff, to start cleaning hardware. Also on the list is to re-do the fender chop, and treat the faded plastic with some petroleum jelly. I might even install the license plate bracket I made...

Stay tuned for pics tomorrow! smile.gif

#8

Less progress today than I had hoped for. My heat went out in the garage(again!), and while I bundled up anyway, my air line kept freezing up! :pissed:

Didn't get the second fender chop done, but the nozzle for the furnace is clean and should be warm again tomorrow afternoon after work. <_<

Here's a pic of how petroleum jelly brings faded black plastic back to life, you can see the part was pretty ugly, almost white! I rubbed on a thick layer of P.J. and let it sit overnight, just to take a pic for you guys.

[image: PICT0021.jpg]

That's the fender I'm chopping right now, pics of the plate mount and rough cut are coming...

#9

Here's the other promised pics:

The 2 together:

[image: 750rearfender001.jpg]

The one I didn't like:

[image: 750rearfender002.jpg]

The one I like better, and didn't get to finish today:

[image: 750rearfender003.jpg]

Here's the license plate bracket I made:

[image: 750rearfender004.jpg]

It'll mount with a few rivets on the underside of the chopped tray:

[image: 750rearfender005.jpg]

Plastic needs finishing trim:

[image: 750rearfender006.jpg]

Angle was precisely calculated for coolest looks, most mud protection, and best angle for receiving light from the taillight.

[image: 750rearfender007.jpg]

And the reason I didn't get much done - it was colder than shown, it bottoms out at 30, was closer to 20!

[image: 750rearfender008.jpg]

Not that I'm a wussy, I'm outside in the blowing wind on colder days lugging firewood to and into my house, along with splitting, stacking, etc, it's just easier to be creative and productive when it's NOT 20 degrees! :joystick:

#10
ChevSeb, start with the recommended amount of spring pre-load (it came in the instructions from Sonic). That put me at 32mm on the dot(230-235lb with gear). I'm also running 15w fork oil and I like it......... but I'm too stubborn to know if these things are good or not............ hasn't bucked me off yet anyway. :thumbsup:

Get that heat fixed..... wrenching is supposed to be fun.

Honestly, I wanted to go lighter w/ the springs, but the lightest Rich had was 1.0. I'm around 210 w/ gear, and like to push it(riding wise). The instructions set you up with 1/2" of preload, I'm thinking harder about doing what Jamie did, and drilling/tapping the fork caps and fitting a bolt and washer so I can adjust the setup later, its bad enough that there are no other adjustments...

I really like the ride on my VTEC w/ the .90 springs(w/ Honda 10wt), and it's not too much lighter than the 750 when the bags are on. Then again, the shock I got from you was meant to be used with the 1.0 springs, so, I'll see how it goes. Emulators will help. I'll keep at it till it's ironed out and ridin like a cream puff. :salesman:

#11

The heat is on! (and back on!)

Family is out at a b-day party today, so I have a whole afternoon of garage time!! Yay!

More pics to come, the fender is done, got the front wheel cleaned up, it's ready for rotors, which I need to paint black first. Been tapping out some of the holes in the frame, also got the excess PC cleaned off the swingarm.

Hopefully will have lots to report back with this evening!

In the meantime, here's proof of mileage: B)

[image: lowmiles006.jpg]

+1.gif

#12

Hey Seb,

I'm getting my 83 VF750F today. I guess you could be of a big help to me. Right now, it's just a project. The guy is asking $300 for it. Here's a pic. Look at the sacrilege +1.gif

[image: DVC0000002.jpg]

I can't wait to strip it down to the bone. Here in BC, the bike will be available for "Collector Plate" which means dirt cheap insurance, but it has to be in mint condition and if modified, the modifications had to be available at the time of production.

Viva la 1st Gen!

#13
Stéphane
SEBSPEEDPS - if you do get it, and don't like those case guards, I'll take them off your hands! :thumbsup:

I got the bike, so . . . What have you got to trade for?

I need: left muffler - the plastic above the ignition - windshield- right passenger foot peg - gasket kit-timing chain - seat - decal kit

So far that's it.

How 'bout a new Lockhart Philips smoke windscreen? Plastic around the ignition - you mean the piece that goes on the upper triple(fuse cover)? I have one of those too(won't need it on mine).

Invest in Vaseline. All that fugly gray plastic can be black again.

I have some pics from today, will add them tomorrow. I went through 3(yes 3!) full cans of degreaser/brake cleaner today cleaning every single part of the forks. Also got the lower bearing race and dust seal off the lower triple. Wire wheeled a bunch of bolts as well as the damping rods(if you can call them that). I'm going to smooth/port/polish the holes and grooves in those tomorrow for nice oil flow.

Also need to drill and tap the lone steering stop on the lower triple to accept two small bolts, to make the stop bigger. It hits the frame before the stop on the frame.

More tomorrow!

#14

Here's the leftovers from the fork cleaning... I don't have a parts washer yet, so I ended up going through 4 large aerosol cans of degreaser/brake cleaner... yuck!

[image: 2-27-08007.jpg]

In other news, I disabled the TRAC anti-dive(required when installing GVE's):

[image: 2-27-08005.jpg]

Also glass bead blasted the fork lowers and the lower triple:

[image: 2-27-08002.jpg]

And the battery tray:

[image: 2-27-08010.jpg]

Just a quickie job on the tray and the lower triple, and a little time with the angle grinder and some surface refining pads will make them nice. Same goes for the fork sliders, I didn't want to get the glass media in the axle clamps, so I taped them up and will finish the paint removal by hand.

I'll paint all that stuff satin or semi-gloss black the same time as the F2 rotors, but need to find a new/better rear rotor first. Seems the person I got the wheels from, has/had a riding style completely different from mine. The rear rotor is well worn, and grooved, and shows signs of having been good and hot at least once, while the fronts look great. Better for me that way, at least... :rolleyes:

[image: 2-27-08006.jpg]

Last but not least, I finished up making a set of spacers to align the rear wheel in the swingarm, and sent Jamie Daugherty my spare rear F2 wheel in exchange for the machining of my hub and speedo drive. It worked out better this way for me, because my employer is becoming more strict about use of company machines for non-company parts. I was lucky to get that one set of spacers done under the radar, but had to jump through hoops to get time on the lathe. :rolleyes:

[image: 2-27-08001.jpg]

Just need to make up the other front spacer, then see how it all fits!

I have my swingarm and the new bearings, seals, etc. in my truck and will drop them off at my local dealer tomorrow, got a pal there hooking me up with pressing everything back in(one less thing I have to do!). Doing wheel bearings is one thing, but the swinger is awkward and I would be super pissed if that fresh powdercoat got scratched up because I slipped with the hammer, pipe, etc, you know how these things go.

More to come!

#15
chickenofseaNice work, Seb! Once I heal up from my surgery, I'm heading outside and starting work on my VF. I got the HID set in the mail, will post a thread when I get it in and working.

I can't wait for spring...

Surgery? :blink:

Can't wait to see how the lights turn out(on, I mean :idea3: )! :thumbsup:

Here's some more pics I took today, I got my Emulators! :D

[image: 3-4-08004.jpg]

Still can't believe what they charge for these little suckers, but supposedly they are worth it...

[image: 3-4-08005.jpg]

All Balls steering bearings(tapered roller), front wheel bearings, and rear wheel bearings. All three are kits and include new dust seals.

[image: 3-4-08009.jpg]

Sonic Springs are here, sorry not unwrapping them till they go in the forks...

[image: 3-4-08010.jpg]

Polishing the damping rods:

[image: 3-4-08006.jpg]

Did some cleanup on the fork lowers, removing casting marks and some scratches they had:

[image: 3-4-08008.jpg]

[image: 3-4-08007.jpg]

Thinking about how to use my 750 fender on the 1000 forks, or maybe even a VF500 fender. I really don't like the 1KR fender, and I'll chop it up to change the lines of it like I did with KeystoneVFR's fender if I have to.

The bolt patterns are different between the two(three?) fenders, but a new bracket may cure that problem(VF1kR on top, blank under it):

[image: 3-4-08002.jpg]

CBR600F4 rear brake caliper, caliper bracket, and master will be fitted, also in the pic is the Blackbird clutch master.

[image: 3-4-08011.jpg]

Last but not least here's the controls;

Early 5th gen left side controls:

[image: 3-4-08014.jpg]

2006 CBR1000RR kill/run switch:

[image: 3-4-08012.jpg]

Got some helping hands coming from Canada this weekend, if we don't drink to much there may be more to report by Monday! :blink:

#16

Reading through this thread (particularly the bit about there being "only a bit of cam wear after ~3000 miles"), I can't help wondering if, for the sake of longevity, you'd be better off sourcing an engine from an '86-89 model VFR? I don't know if these will bolt into that frame (but suspect they would), and they are designed to be "hidden" under a full fairing (nothing a bit of powder-coating/painting wouldn't fix)...

If you're going to be riding it a lot, you'd probably want better piece of mind than that offered by one of the infamous VF donks.

(Just my 2c, mind)

#17
FLYONWALL9Seb, thats what I'm talkin bout start em early :D

You are moving along at a nice pace. As you know mine is at a standstill so I can live my wrenchin

days through you :rolleyes:

I'll have a post for you in a few days that you MAY or may not like.....

Keep it up dude

So what was not to like about your posts? :joystick: Helmet looks slick! :thumbsup:

Here's some pics of the meager bits I got done recently...

Wheel bearings in

[image: 3-18-08013.jpg]

All new, all 'round, even in the hub!

[image: 3-18-08016.jpg]

I bought the Vortex sprocket on a CBR board years ago for $10, just to hang on the wall, because the owner did not know what is was for. I called the part number in to Vortex, they replied "530 pitch fits Honda"... sooo.... at the time I tried to fit it to my CBR, and it didn't fit. On the wall it went. Last weekend I pulled it down, and LO AND BEHOLD, LOOKY WHAT IT FITS!!! How lucky is that?? It's a bit big @48 teeth, but, we shall see. If I don't use it, at least now I know what it fits, and can sell it to get $$ for the one I really want/need. :thumbsup:

The VF1000R forks where meant to be air charged just as the 750, and a cross over tube is used to keep pressure even. Not anymore. I want to be able to adjust the height of the tubes, so I welded the holes for the crossover shut. Still need the grind them down and blend them in a bit.

[image: 3-18-08006.jpg]

Did some more glass bead blasting, and yes, I did blast the rotors. Came out great!!

Anti-dive case cover:

[image: 3-18-08001.jpg]

Rotors(also masked for paint):

[image: 3-18-08003.jpg]

[image: 3-18-08004a.jpg]

[image: 3-18-08002.jpg]

I was advised to test fit the 1KR triple before powdercoat, and I'm glad I did. Turns out I needed to add ~1/8th of an inch to either side of the steering stop on the lower triple to keep it from hitting the frame.

Here's what I did, I drilled a hole through the stop, and cut most of the thread off of two spare VFR fairing bolts. Then pressed them into the slightly undersized hole:

[image: 3-18-08009.jpg]

[image: 3-18-08011.jpg]

[image: 3-18-08012.jpg]

Last but not least, I had been wondering why there were two extra holes and one small machined area on each side of the VF swingarm. I still don't know what Honda's intentions were, but I decided to use the spot to implement a bracket for one of my bike stands on each side. They will be made of titanium, and include the cutouts shown on the full scale paper template. I modeled them after Gilles Tooling's chain adjusters, which include the rear stand bracket, and double as toe guards(to keep your toes from getting caught in the chain & sprocket).

[image: 3-18-08007.jpg]

Hope you guys enjoy, I'm trying to keep the ball rolling here... tough lately...

#18
The snob bike cost my dad a whopping $free.99!! Then he spent about $1000 in parts that I put on for him~

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
#19
Looks good. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)

What temp do you bake parts at and for how long?

SEBSPEED, Mar 28 2008, 04:08 PMSteering stem, not the greatest pic:
I ended up taking the screws back out and reinstalling them wet with JB Weld, and drilled a small hole perpendicular to the screw hole to let the excess out along with air. They're very solid now!

Why did you jbweld the screws?
#20
SEBSPEED, Mar 28 2008, 01:08 PM......That with the GVE's and springs makes this a $400 fork rebuild! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) ....


Was there a particular reason you chose the VF1000 forks? $400 seems like a lot to put into them.
Would it have been feasible to use CBR forks instead?

Not criticizing, just wondering....
#21
vfrcapn, Mar 28 2008, 07:50 PMLooks good. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)

What temp do you bake parts at and for how long?

SEBSPEED, Mar 28 2008, 04:08 PMSteering stem, not the greatest pic:
I ended up taking the screws back out and reinstalling them wet with JB Weld, and drilled a small hole perpendicular to the screw hole to let the excess out along with air. They're very solid now!

Why did you jbweld the screws?



Not sure on the temp, something over 100. I wasn't expecting the favor, so I didn't ask any questions. My buddy would come over and bump it the temp up between coats I was spraying, and for about 45 mins after the last coat, then they stayed in the warm booth overnight(not at temp, but they cooled down with the room).

I added the JB Weld because I was out of the epoxy I usually use. The screws were a tight fit, but it was a press fit, not a tapped hole, and I had cut all but roughly 1/8" off the screws. I didn't want to chance them falling out at some point later on.
#22

Purged 3 pages of " Awesome job Seb" in case you forgot what it said ! :thumbsup:

#23

Really interesting and nice job, Seb!! It'll turn into something you will be proud of.

I also noticed that $30K BMW in your garage. You'll never see me with one of those $30K BMW's in my garage! Too snobby for me and they're bad protocol.... :lol: :beer:

#24

Ok, how about getting back on topic here...

I got a deal on some signals, once I repaint them they should blend in nicely - until they get turned on that is.

Ten superbright LEDs in a fake carbon-coated aluminum housing, I was impressed by how good it felt to hold these, they feel like quality should! $15 for this pair and have another set in chrome coming that I got for $5(both new!). I will sand them and paint them gloss black, they should blend right into the black frame. Stock location in front, and semi-tucked under the license plate bracket at the rear.

[image: 3-27-08001.jpg]

Painted parts! All these parts have about 4 coats of Rustoleum Gloss Black, and were painted in a heated booth, then baked overnight. No real reason to go that far, but it was available at no cost to me, and I thought it would be a plus to get the paint baked on the fork sliders, less worry while cleaning!

License plate bracket:

[image: 3-27-08007.jpg]

Paint came out a little funky on the front side here, but the back is perfect, and the only part you might be able to see when on the bike.

Rotors:

[image: 3-27-08011.jpg]

Both came out nice.

Battery box:

[image: 3-27-08010.jpg]

The sticker was in good shape, so I taped it of during media blast and paint to keep it around.

Steering stem, not the greatest pic:

[image: 3-27-08008.jpg]

I ended up taking the screws back out and reinstalling them wet with JB Weld, and drilled a small hole perpendicular to the screw hole to let the excess out along with air. They're very solid now!

Fork clamps and TRAC case cover:

[image: 3-27-08004.jpg]

Fork sliders:

[image: 3-27-08005.jpg]

This one needs some touch-up below where the TRAC cover goes, I taped off more than necessary. Good thing it will be hard to see!

[image: 3-27-08006.jpg]

Forks are just about ready to come together, need to smooth out the welds on the tubes, and triple-check that I have all the parts I need.

Every piece of these things are going to be new, all crush washers, o-rings, seals, bushings, wipers, etc. That with the GVE's and springs makes this a $400 fork rebuild! :beer:

I'm hoping to get the forks built and the swingarm in the frame this weekend. Also hoping to order the tires soon, I will be very happy to get this thing rolling about!

#25
ggathagan
SEBSPEED......That with the GVE's and springs makes this a $400 fork rebuild! :beer:....

Was there a particular reason you chose the VF1000 forks? $400 seems like a lot to put into them.

Would it have been feasible to use CBR forks instead?

Not criticizing, just wondering....

I chose the VF forks for a few reasons: 1, they are larger in diameter(stiffer) @ 41mm than the 750 forks @ 39mm. 2, they have the quick-release axle clamps which is the same setup that HRC used on their 750 race bikes back in the day, so they add an era-correct performance look(to some people). 3, the option to use the VF1000R adjustable clip-ons, an option which I am not currently using. 4, RaceTech does not make a GVE for 39mm forks...

If I had to do this again, I would find a set of 1994 CBR600F2 forks to use. That one year only was the last year to have a cable-driven speedo, but was also blessed with the cartridge internals of the future CBR-F3.

I got a sweet deal on the R forks, else I would have skipped them and done the CBR forks. Cost would be about the same, the breakdown is: Gold Valve Emulators[$155], Sonic fork springs[$95], and the rest is made up by all the bushings and seals and such, they really start adding up! So, unless I got a set of mint-condition forks that I wouldn't paint or rebuild, this cost would factor back in to a different set.

It's just another of the many reasons this is taking so long, I'm not looking to throw this together and make it look cool, I want to do it right and make it functional too. :thumbsup:

#26
FLYONWALL9, Apr 6 2008, 06:54 PMBummer on the fork tube Seb. Other than that what have you
been working on?


Not much, lost interest for a few days. I did receive my tires(Avon Storms), and a box full of bulk stainless brake lines and pretty fittings, for making the oil mod kit and the brake & clutch lines.

I spent this weekend doing a custom rear stainless brake line setup on a VTEC, and got a little riding in, along with some yard work... this week I am looking forward to getting my Dad on his BMW for the first time, and going for a ride with him. It will be his first bike ride in over 20 years, and it will be our first ride together, ever. It's gonna be fun, been waiting years for this!!

If I have time, I would like to get my motor outside and get it cleaned, then make up the lines for the oil mod. Since I can't make a rolling chassis yet, I may just put the motor in the frame... yeehaa!!
#27

Well, the fork is in the hands of the USPS right now, on it's way to GMD Computrack in Scranton, Pennsylvania.

Here's a pic of the parts for my oil line mod:

[image: Stevescustomlines2026.jpg]

Gotta get off this darn pc now and go do some work... :fing02:

#28
Looks great!
#29
I hear ya on the tire size. I just mounted my Conti in that size with no finder it looks like
hammered ass crack. It'll prolly work out once its got all the surrounding parts to take your
eye off it.

Hey Seb I wanna pass on a tip. I'm sure you know about this and your prolly gonna do it
but if not here it is. Tape up that nicely painted fork leg. I just got a nasty scratch on mine
yesterday because my dumbarse didn't take the time to mask it off. Now I gotta touch up.

All else looks good buddy, keep it up.
#30

Well, I got my Avon Storms mounted on the wheels! The front looks sweet, but the rear, not so much. Using the 160/70 series tire really looks funky...

Got the swingarm on the bike today, I had to bead blast and paint a few more parts like the suspension linkages before I could put it on. once it was in, I stuck the rear wheel and tire under the bike, and confirmed my fear. Right now, it looks like ass. The tire is huge, really tall, it looks like a truck tire in there! Hopefully, once the front end goes together, it will be more in proportion and won't look too bad. Maybe I'm just so used to seeing the bare frame sitting there on its own...

The fork tube is still with GMD Computrack. I did speak to Mike Hartman, he received it and it is fixable, but they were closed today when I tried to call and check on it. Hopefully I'll find out more tomorrow.

#31

Finally got through and paid for the, ahem - uh, what am I paying for??? $45 to find out the tube is not bent? Hmm. Great. Now I have to check the slider.

Good thing I have a bike to ride, or something(s) would be flying in the air getting broken right now. $7 to ship the tube to PA via USPS, $27 for labor, $15.xx for them to ship back via UPS, plus $1.73 for tax. Effing wonderful. And I don't know what the problem is, yet.

I had put the edge of a metal part on it when I suspected it was bent, and it looked like it was out. Mike Hartman @ GMD Computrack(located in the North American Warhorse dealership in Scranton, PA), says it's well within tolerance.

??????????????????????????

#32
redmarqueMaybe a long shot - have you tried rolling the fork legs on a piece of glass or marble :fing02: (kitchen worktop is the best, as I generally anoys the other half)

I have precision granite surface tables at my disposal at work, I just convinced myself that the tube was bent, and so I sent it out without further verification on my part. Then GMD told me it was fine. I will check it out before reassembly.

So to update, I have not done much of anything with the bike lately, except spend a bit more money on parts.

I got a very slightly used Accel ignition setup, a 2006 CBR1000RR clutch master(so now I have a choice between that and the B'bird master), and also had Jamie Daugherty's CNC guy make me a custom fork brace that will allow me to use my 750 front fender instead of the ugly 1kR piece.

Will try to get some new pics up this week, but it's been slow(or no) going lately...

#33
So, I finally got a little more done on the bike! I assembled the second fork and it went together well, and it works a lot better than it did before... the only thing I did differently during assembly was to hold the fork upright when I tightened the bottom bolt with my impact gun, where last time I held it horizontally. :fing02: Any way, it works now, so... on the bike it goes!

Used the old bearing races to tap in the new ones, I had planned to borrow the special tool from the local Honda dealer, but they didn't have the one I needed.

Got the lower triple in:
[image: Posted Image]

Checked my clearances to the frame on either side; the triple was hitting the frame before I modified the stop with a pair of screws, looks like they worked out pretty well! I retained a lot of the steering travel, and the triple doesn't hit the frame.

Right side:
[image: Posted Image]

Left side:
[image: Posted Image]

Upper triple is in, with the right leg:
[image: Posted Image]

Used a VTEC top bridge nut & steering plug, and you can see the Yoshimura F3 billet clip on there:
[image: Posted Image]

My son helped me tap out the holes for the rotor bolts(dirty in the first place, plus glass bead leftovers):
[image: Posted Image]

Then I bolted the rotors on that I painted a while back, and threw the wheel up on the lift as well as installed the other fork leg:
[image: Posted Image]

I'm digging the black on white! :biggrin:

If you didn't notice in those pics, there is a custom fork brace in there that Jamie Daugherty designed and had another guy machine for me, it's made to bolt on the 1000R forks and hold a 750F fender! Yay!! I'm not liking the rough machine finish, so I will be sanding and polishing that piece at some point, it's too nice to paint black, but looks rough as-is.
[image: Posted Image]

I spent an evening with my regulator-rectifier/fuel pump bracket, and this turned out real nice. I am going to try out the gravity feed fuel setup, so I got rid of the pump for now, removed the R/R, and degreased the whole plastic bracket. It cleaned up really well, and looks like new now! Here it is with the R/R back on(the bolts were wire wheeled before reassembly):
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Another little success story here is the shock linkage. Man, was that thing dirty! It had a layer of grime like you wouldn't believe... and the linkage arms(I like to call them drumsticks :rolleyes: ) were pretty rusty. Another can of degreaser, a little glass bead blasting, and a spritz of paint later - much better!

[image: Posted Image]

Installed:
[image: Posted Image]

Other side:
[image: Posted Image]

In that pic you can see the foam I filled the swingarm with, it's just the stuff that comes in the can "Great Stuff" it's called.

I put the cush rubbers back in the F2 wheel, slipped on the specially machined hub, and then, finally, after much ado, I have a rolling chassis!!
[image: Posted Image]

Seeing that got me motivated to install the brand new upper fairing stay that I bought 2 years ago, it was damaged during shipping & so I had to spend about 45 minutes with various tools to get it just right again, but it's about perfect now.
[image: Posted Image]

Then I just had to throw the new headlight in to see how it would look, I think it's going to be pretty badass!! :fing02:
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Any thoughts, opinions, comments/questions/concerns are welcome! :fing02:
#35
Looking good, but what's up with the RWB colors? I thought you were going with all grey shades, or this this one from a spare set.
[image: Posted Image]

The clipons look nice, but wouldn't it be a lot easier if the bolts that clamp the clipons to the fork stanchions were oriented the other way round? Seems like you can't reach the bolts when the master brake cilinder is installed.
#36
Damn Seb! Between you and BusyLittleShop, you guys could produce your own line of bikes. I'm all for the RWB combo. My only problem with putting in those kinds of hours in a project like that is that I would have to build a vault to keep it in. I wouldn't even trust myself to ride the thing around the block. Your garage makes my little Craftsman tool box on the counter in my garage look like a little girls finger nail kit.
#37

Looking good, but what's up with the RWB colors? I thought you were going with all grey shades, or this this one from a spare set.
[image: Posted Image]

The clipons look nice, but wouldn't it be a lot easier if the bolts that clamp the clipons to the fork stanchions were oriented the other way round? Seems like you can't reach the bolts when the master brake cilinder is installed.


Rosso, I am doing the "shades of gray" job, for sure. I do have a second(even some triples of some parts) that I'm going to do in RW&B at some point. The tank and tail are there for motivation right now, also to test the clip-on clearance(which is GOOD!) :rolleyes:

My controls are going to consist of (L side) 900RR grip, 98 VFR800 signal pod & choke, and CBR1000RR clutch master(small res), and on the right side, 900RR grip/throttle housing(small), CBR1000RR start/stop switch(slim like the RC51), and 2004 Yamaha/Brembo radial master cyl(has cup-type remote res). Shouldn't be any issues with getting to the clip ons, although once they are on there, they will probably stay for a long time, unless I decide to go higher, in which case I'll strap on a set of stock CBR600F3 bars.
#38
Any thoughts on painting the foam in your swingarm black, so it doesn't get dirty white looking from Splooge? Looks good to me, I like the white on black as well. Have you considered doing your own powdercoating? Check out thise setup (Mitch Patrie, the Mojo Lever Guy)

[image: Posted Image]

And for the oven:

[image: Posted Image]

I love the way the guy thinks....gives me all sorts of ideas guaranteed to make the wife shake her head.

http://home.comcast....ff_Workshop.htm
#39

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Jun 7 2008, 09:05 PM, said:

Any thoughts on painting the foam in your swingarm black, so it doesn't get dirty white looking from Splooge? Looks good to me, I like the white on black as well. Have you considered doing your own powdercoating? Check out thise setup (Mitch Patrie, the Mojo Lever Guy)


Yes, and yes. I even went so far as to haul in a free, used electric home oven to bake the parts in, but never got around to buying the gun kit, so I gave the oven away to someone else. Was going to buy all my supplies from the same place I get my polishing stuff, caswellplating.com & Eastwood. One of those things that never happened. I also have an old TIG welding cabinet I got from work(the blue thing seen in a couple pics above) that I'm going to convert to a sand/glass bead cabinet, not giving up on that one, just one of those "gotta get around to it" things.

I'm saying right now that I won't be riding this bike enough to get it "sploogy", but you never know, might have to cover up some dirt with paint in the future...
#41
Tiny little update, took the gauge cluster apart to repair the broken trip meter. Back when I tried to take out the little screw that holds the reset knob, the screw snapped off, and also broke the arm for the spring on the inside of the meter reset assembly. Luckily I have two extra clusters, so I christened my new workbench with a Swiss watchmaker feel...

The one that snapped off, and the replacement above:
[image: Posted Image]

I also wanted to swap out the white backing tub, because the bottom left tab had a piece missing:
[image: Posted Image]

First one apart:
[image: Posted Image]

Second one apart:
[image: Posted Image]

Knob ready for reconditioning, I dunked it in the Vaseline, wrapped it in a shop towel, and stuffed it in the little baggie with its screw.
[image: Posted Image]

Cleaned the tub:
[image: Posted Image]

Pulled the old shaft and replaced with better, also replaced a small plastic piece inside the meter assembly. Reset and realigned all the trip meter tumblers, and reassembled(with an different knob for illustration, the other is still soaking).
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

I am now waiting on a shipment from superbrightleds.com, I am replacing all the bulbs with 5-led bulbs in the tub, all will be red to really set off the already red-colored gauges, also replacing the indicator lights with smaller led's, color coded to the indicators. Should be nice and bright and rich. :fing02:

And here's a shot of the right side Vance & Hines full system, not the best shot, I know, but at least I've posted on now... I won't be using the V&H cans, I'm making custom carbon exhausts that will slip on to the head pipes.

[image: Posted Image]
#42
Does that rear shock have an extension on the bottom?
I'm searching around for a replacement for my VF700F rear shock and the Dougherty solution
seems reasonable, except for the $200 price tag. Not that it's not worth it, but the bike only cost $900.
I'm looking at bolting on a 3 1/2" extension to a CBR600 rear shock myself.
Any suggestions or advice?
#43
That shock came from Works Performance in a box, it's not a rebuilt unit. Chev bought it new, and when his motor popped I bought it from him. I don't see why you couldn't make the extension yourself, provided you have the skills and the equipment to do it properly.





On another note, my project completion goal of August '08 is not going to happen. I think I will be lucky to have this bike ready for the spring of '09.

Thanks for watching folks.
#44

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Aug 30 2008, 08:11 PM, said:

Meh.

Meh this, I dare you! :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: :pissed:

[image: Posted Image]

and Seb, I will be needing the '86 wheels, if you please.
#45
Seb outstanding work my friend. You've done a hell of a job bringing her back to her former glory :fing02: Makes me wish I didnt unload my 84 lastweek :pissed:
#46

[image: View Post]Kel, on Sep 4 2008, 04:48 PM, said:

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on Sep 4 2008, 04:31 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Aug 30 2008, 08:11 PM, said:

Meh.

Meh this, I dare you! :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: :pissed:

[image: Posted Image]

and Seb, I will be needing the '86 wheels, if you please.


Man, that thing is sweet!


Ah, yes - the fabled prototype... Project Blackbird... did you know there were at least two of these? I can't remember the guy's name who owns this one and a bunch of other vintage racebikes(they call him Mr. Superbike). The second one is on the cover of the December 1982 issue of Cycle World, you can tell by the extra frame spar under the tank/side panel that did not make it to the production bikes.

Timmah - the wheels are yours, we'll have to figure out how to keep the '86 rollable temporarily... I'm guessing you already bought extra cans of flat black paint? :biggrin:
#48
Lots of good stuff there, makes me wish I had just a little more spending cash. Just a little! ...

[image: Posted Image]
#49

[image: View Post]SEAN, on Oct 11 2008, 05:43 PM, said:

any new updates???

No, not really. I did manage to break a bolt off in the motor... one of the upper mount bolts. :pissed: It's soaking in PB Blaster while I get my hands on a left-handed/fluted drill bit... :dry:

The motor has been brought to new-looking condition thanks to a small can of S100 Engine Brightener - that stuff is amazing! (and expensive!)

I have another box of parts that I need to glass bead blast, then repaint. Got new o-ring seals for the water pipes on the motor. Got more exhaust ideas.

I also bought a bunch of LEDs to replace all the bulbs in the gauge cluster, but they don't fit the sockets on the harness, so I'll have to fiddle with the harness and cut/solder all the LEDs in... :dry:

Fuel oil for the garage(yes, I have a heated garage) will have to be rationed to the days that I'm feeling really inspired/motivated this winter... it's going to be a long, cold winter and the oil has never been so damn expensive - talk about "burning your cash"! :mad:

I am still hoping to be done by spring though. :beer:
#50

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Jul 26 2008, 06:52 PM, said:

I am now waiting on a shipment from superbrightleds.com, I am replacing all the bulbs with 5-led bulbs in the tub, all will be red to really set off the already red-colored gauges, also replacing the indicator lights with smaller led's, color coded to the indicators. Should be nice and bright and rich. :fing02:


It took long enough, but I found a way to get those 5-led bulbs in the 750 housing. I needed bigger sockets to hold the bulbs, and "lucky me" the 86 VFR I just got has the right size sockets. So I cut 5 sockets off the 86 cluster harness, and drilled out the 83 socket holes to .5" to accept the new sockets.

Got all the bulbs in and reinstalled the gauges in the tub, then reattached the harness to the back of the tub. I need to cut the old sockets off, solder the new sockets in, then install the LEDs for the indicator lights and the cluster rebuild will be complete.

I have fresh pics of this stuff that I will post tonight.
#51
Here's the pics I promised.

Drilling:
[image: Posted Image]

Old 86 bulb/new LED bulb:
[image: Posted Image]

Cutting the harness:
[image: Posted Image]

Pigtails cleaned & installed:
[image: Posted Image]

With bulbs:
[image: Posted Image]

I cleaned the harness and wire wheeled all the connections with my Dremel, and cut the old sockets off. Here it is installed waiting to have the wire ends stripped and soldered to the new sockets:
[image: Posted Image]

With bulbs & gauges:
[image: Posted Image]

& the old gauges look so much better without the faded cover over them...
[image: Posted Image]

That's all for now.
#52
Pic of the new LEDs lighting the gauges! Sorry about the cell pic, best we could do at the time. It was plugged into a friends' bike as a check, works great! They are bright enough to see in the daytime!

[image: Posted Image]
#53
Another neat item on the mod list - I was inspired by this pic I found on the web to go on a hunt for a clear automotive head light to use(some of you may remember the post), well, I found out it's the same unit used in early '90s Chevy S-10s, H60something or other. I bought a pair, and member Chickenofthesea(Matt) and I split the cost. We might upgrade to HID together later this year!
[image: Posted Image]

Enjoy. More posting when I can.
[/quote]


Tell me about the S-10 head light install? Did it bolt right in or did you have to mod it? And did you see the new HI/LO HID bulbs?
Stephen
#54
Quick ebay search results: HERE

Any 1988-1993 Chevy S-10/GMC S-15/Blazer/Jimmy headlight will fit.
#55
More than you wanted to know about HID in a Gen I.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...c=42231&hl=

Quote

Tell me about the S-10 head light install? Did it bolt right in or did you have to mod it? And did you see the new HI/LO HID bulbs?
Stephen
#56
So this is my latest cause of de-motivation... a broken mount bolt in the head. That little dot all the way in there is the second broken extractor.

[image: Posted Image]

And the gauges got some liquid electrical tape on the new bulb connections.

[image: Posted Image]

Lame update, I know, but better than none I hope?
#57
NO JB WELD!!!!!!!!!!!

Can't drill from the other side, it's accessible, but 1) I don't want to 2) it might eventually compromise the motor mount and 3) even if I drill from the back, the drill will still stop when it hits the extractor, it's too hard to drill.

I have to sit down with the Dremel (again) and grind out the leftover extractor (again) then make a tool to center an oversize drill over the hole, and drill it all out, then tap to the next size up.

Just not motivated at the moment. And the last four grinding stones I had to buy were $3.30 each...
#58

[image: View Post]JamieDaugherty, on Dec 14 2008, 09:11 PM, said:

That doesn't look so bad! A little bit of PBlaster and a LH drill bit... no problem!

It soaked in PB Blaster for 2 weeks before the first extractor was broken... and that little piece of the second one needs to come out before any drilling happens, as you know. That crap is too hard for any drill bit to touch. The hole is also off center from grinding the first broken piece out, so I need to make a tool to center an oversize drill after I get that second piece out. Thank God for Dremels... even if their attachments are ridiculously overpriced.
#59
After breaking off a very, very expensive special tap in a very expensive engine block, I found out that taps, while very hard and almost impossible to drill through, are extremely brittle. I got my smallest air chisel bit and gave the tap a few taps-it shattered into a million pieces.

looks like you might be a little too far along for that to be of any help, but it might be worth a shot.

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Dec 14 2008, 08:40 PM, said:

[image: View Post]VFR4Lee, on Dec 14 2008, 09:35 PM, said:

Damn. I would have dropped all the F bombs and took it in at the first bolt breakage. :pissed:
Oh wait. I mean that's what I did when I snapped a bolt recently. I know my limits with that stuff. :goofy:


Doesn't help me to take it anywhere, then I'll just be mad at myself for breaking it, AND for paying someone else to do something I should/could do myself... I find it's best to just drop what I'm doing and leave it alone until I figure out how to fix it.

Sure, that means this build thread could go on forever, but hey, at least it's entertaining! :blush:

#60

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Dec 14 2008, 09:24 PM, said:

A friend was supposed to make me a drill bushing from tool steel, but I haven't heard from him in a couple weeks. You busy lately Jamie? ;)


Slammed. Spent so much time out in the shop yesterday that I lost feeling in my toes. I can move them now so all is good. One of these days I'll be able to work on my own parts. I've been saying that for two years now and I haven't done it yet....


Have you tried breaking the piece out with a punch? Hard is ok, but that usually comes along with being brittle. A couple of good smacks (don't be a wimp!) and it should bust out. This also helps loosen the broken bolt too by the way.

I've not had much luck with easy-outs. I think I've only had them work once or twice. I now prefer to just drill out the bolt. Keeping the drill on center is the key, that way you can continued drilling out with increasing size bits until almost all of the bolt is gone. At that point it often just comes out by hand. I'm sure you know this, but I mention it just for those who are following along that might not be as familiar with a problem like this.
#61

[image: View Post]JamieDaugherty, on Dec 15 2008, 07:52 AM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Dec 14 2008, 09:24 PM, said:

A friend was supposed to make me a drill bushing from tool steel, but I haven't heard from him in a couple weeks. You busy lately Jamie? ;)


Slammed. Spent so much time out in the shop yesterday that I lost feeling in my toes. I can move them now so all is good. One of these days I'll be able to work on my own parts. I've been saying that for two years now and I haven't done it yet....


Have you tried breaking the piece out with a punch? Hard is ok, but that usually comes along with being brittle. A couple of good smacks (don't be a wimp!) and it should bust out. This also helps loosen the broken bolt too by the way.

I've not had much luck with easy-outs. I think I've only had them work once or twice. I now prefer to just drill out the bolt. Keeping the drill on center is the key, that way you can continued drilling out with increasing size bits until almost all of the bolt is gone. At that point it often just comes out by hand. I'm sure you know this, but I mention it just for those who are following along that might not be as familiar with a problem like this.


Yep, it's been whacked a few times. The key is having something that's almost as hard or harder to hit it with. The original hole I drilled was/is straight, it got egged out a bit from grinding the first extractor out. Once I get the rest of this one out, I'm never touching an extractor again.
#62
Hey Seb... use an abrasive wheel (suitable for carbide) and sharpen the cutting edges of a masonry bit... high rpm,light pressure and a little oil and you should be able to work you way through the extractor. Ive done this many times and with a little practice it works quite well...
#63

[image: View Post]meddle1999, on Jan 26 2009, 06:15 AM, said:

Hey Seb... use an abrasive wheel (suitable for carbide) and sharpen the cutting edges of a masonry bit... high rpm,light pressure and a little oil and you should be able to work you way through the extractor. Ive done this many times and with a little practice it works quite well...

I think I'll try that. I got the first extractor out a while ago, then a friend brought over some "better" Snap-On and Mac extractor sets - and proceeded to break a second one off in there, leaving me to grind it out AGAIN. Got pretty frustrated with it after going through 9-10 Dremel bits(@ $3.30/ea!)... so it's still sitting on my bench. This one little thing is keeping me from putting the motor back in the frame.

I'm almost ready to find a machine shop within driving distance that has an EDM... :dry:


And thanks, Redmarque!
#64
I found an EDM shop about 20 mins away that said they could get this POS extractor out for me. Just got off the phone with them, they're motorcycle friendly guys! I am sending them pics and they're going to get back to me with a quote...

I need to get the ball rolling on this puppy again.

In other news, I secured some carbon fiber sleeves for the exhuast project. :cool:
#65
I needed to take a break again from the motor headache. Right now I'm working on fitting the VF1000F side panels. Fit, mark, cut, check. Mark, cut, check, repeat.

Just about done with both, gotta do some finish sanding, that will take care of the fit part. There are 3 mounting nubs on these panels just like on the 750 parts - 2 of them fit exactly where the 750 parts do(at the tail fairing and the lower mount), but the gas tank mount is not the same. I have extra panels, I think I will cut the nubs off one that already has a broken tab, and plastic weld them to the newly fitted panels. Gonna go see now if that'll work.

I've been taking pics and will post them tonight or tomorrow morning. Stay tuned.
#66

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Feb 14 2009, 10:25 AM, said:

I needed to take a break again from the motor headache. Right now I'm working on fitting the VF1000F side panels. Fit, mark, cut, check. Mark, cut, check, repeat.

Just about done with both, gotta do some finish sanding, that will take care of the fit part. There are 3 mounting nubs on these panels just like on the 750 parts - 2 of them fit exactly where the 750 parts do(at the tail fairing and the lower mount), but the gas tank mount is not the same. I have extra panels, I think I will cut the nubs off one that already has a broken tab, and plastic weld them to the newly fitted panels. Gonna go see now if that'll work.

I've been taking pics and will post them tonight or tomorrow morning. Stay tuned.

I feel your pain, I went through this with some exhaust studs on my old cb750. Not fun.
#67
I feel you pain. Broken bolts are a real PITA, broken extractors even more. What I do before using an extractor is first pound the remains of the bolt with a driver just to break the oxide between the threads. After that I drill a small dia hole througout the remains of the bolt and put a similar diameter piece of roundbar (e.g. a stem of a worn off dremel grinding stone) in the dremel, place it in the hole I just drilled, and let the dremel spin at max rpm. This heats the bolt up nicely and through the thermal expansion the oxides btween the threads gets crushed. All this makes it easier for the extractor to get the remains of the bolt out, and less chance for it to break.
#69
Thanks again. I'm glad I finally got around to fitting them. It's amazing sometimes how these parts cross-fit!

I'm going to attach new tabs to the tank for the stock 1kF nubs to locate in; if I use the 750F attach points on the tank, I don't think there will be enough hold on the panel. The wind might take one off, had that happen with a panel from my 700 once while wheelieing over a hill...
#70
WOOHOO SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!

The broken extractor & bolt are no more!!! Got the rest of it out just a little while ago, I didn't take the motor anywhere, I decided to have one last go at it, and I got it!! YAY!

Now I just need to make a drill bushing so I can drill the rest of the crap out and retap for an M10 bolt. I feel some progress coming!
#71
Between this project and the 86 project, I sure could go broke real quick!

I got word today that my carbs are on the way back to me. Billy Carr of the V4HondaBBS forum runs a carb rebuilding service, and he's got nice pricing for members of the board.

Ain't they about the prettiest thing you've ever seen? :wub: :blush:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

I had him change the jets to #40 slows and 132 mains while he was in there, to complement the K&N + Vance & Hines full exhaust.

Motorhead1977 also had his 750 carbs rebuilt by Billy last year. I rode the bike, and I gotta say that is what swayed me to send them away. It ran/runs awesome! :fing02:
#72
Thanks redmarque! :fing02:


[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Feb 15 2009, 05:29 PM, said:

I'm going to attach new tabs to the tank for the stock 1kF nubs to locate in; if I use the 750F attach points on the tank, I don't think there will be enough hold on the panel. The wind might take one off, had that happen with a panel from my 700 once while wheelieing over a hill...

I made a template from the 750 panel mount tabs on the tank, and drew them up in Cadkey today. Going to try and cut them this weekend from stainless; 4 pieces, spotwelded together in pairs and then riveted to the tank seam in the right place.
#73

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Feb 16 2009, 03:13 PM, said:

Now I just need to make a drill bushing so I can drill the rest of the crap out and retap for an M10 bolt. I feel some progress coming!

Drilled the hole out today, and it's tapped and ready for an M10x1.25 bolt!

I need to determine the right length and get my hands on one.

Got my parts cut to fit the 1kF side panels also!

I am also going to pull the diaphragm covers back off that pretty set of carbs and sandblast them, then paint with black textured engine paint. They have a little bit of rust pitting going on - can't have that, now can we? :blush:

Busy, busy, as far as the eye can see!
#74
As promised, progress!

I got the valve covers, stator cover, and clutch cover polished. I stripped the valve covers and stator cover with Aircraft stripper. Then I used a big buffer over at a friends' house to get them 90%, he used to have a polishing business and still has a couple of the big heavy duty buffers.

Then back at my place I used one of my small bench grinders to finish them up, also used a cylindrical buff chucked in a drill to get in the spark plug reliefs.

It sure does make a mess!
[image: Posted Image]

Valve/left side covers 90%, and the replacement stator cover on top of the old one:
[image: Posted Image]

All finished & shiny:
[image: Posted Image]

I had some gloss black PPG paint left over from spraying a body kit for a late model Cougar, and I used a toothpick to flow paint into the relieved "HONDA" areas on the left & right side covers:
[image: Posted Image]

I am waiting on a right side gasket and new valve cover gaskets, then I can mount all the covers permanently. I'm not going to clearcoat them, just some S100. I want to see how it holds up. I won't be riding this puppy much anyway, especially not in bad weather.

So for now, this is how it looks. I'm happy so far!
[image: Posted Image]



Also got the rest of the LED's in for the gauge cluster. These little ones need to be checked for polarity, so I'll be paying motorhead's garage a visit soon... :fing02:

[image: Posted Image]
#75
Oil mod is 80% complete, here's some pics!

There are other threads showing the steps, but I'll add mine anyway. More info never hurt anyone, right?

First step - remove clutch cover after draining oil(my motor hasn't had oil in it for three years, no worries here!)
[image: Posted Image]

Then remove this little cover, it pulls out by hand with a little wiggle, the above pic shows it out already.
[image: Posted Image]

Stuff a rag/paper towel/etc into the hole behind the cover to keep drill chips from falling down into the motor. Then look to the bootom of the engine case and find the cast in boss that Honda seems to have put there solely for this purpose...
[image: Posted Image]

Then make a drill start using a center punch/tip of a fresh drill/scribe, etc.

I did something a little different than most here; instead of drilling in the center of the boss, I offset my drill inboard as far as I could, to give myself the best chance of clearing the frame once installed.

To judge the hole center, I stuck a #16 drill through the NPT/AN adapter fitting and eyeballed center. Just make certain you leave enough material around the fitting.
[image: Posted Image]

Then I chucked up a #30 aircraft extension and drilled my pilot hole.
[image: Posted Image]

At the same time, I had a fortune cookie leftover from lunch. Even through the obvious Asian-American grammar, the point came across, and I thought it was fitting. Ah, that V4 song... :biggrin:
[image: Posted Image]

Here's the drill/tap assortment. From left to right, #30(.1285") aircraft extension(6"), #30 to #10(.1905") A.E. step drill, 1/4" jobber(3"), 11/32" jobber, 1/8-27 NPT tap.
[image: Posted Image]

I also took the time to remove the small step on the boss, just in case I ended up bottoming the fitting when threading it in, and also to help keep the drills & tap straight. I also made a few marks on the tap as a reference to keep checking.
[image: Posted Image]

Here's the finished hole:
[image: Posted Image]

Take a couple minutes and remove the burrs from both sides of the hole. I used a rattail file to get in and around both edges. Clean away all debris thoroughly. I used my Shop-Vac and a shop towel soaked with WD-40 to grab the little stuff. Then pull the stuffing back out of the oil gallery and reinsert the small cover.

Then add a few wraps of teflon tape to your fitting and install! Should look like this:
[image: Posted Image]

This is where I'm at now, I attached the -4 hose at the bottom, I need to cut it to length, and also cut 2 short pieces of -3 hose to go to the heads from the tee. Almost done! :fing02:
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

And now for something completely different - this is one of the Rizoma mirrors I'm going to use! :biggrin:
[image: Posted Image]
#76
Alright, pics are loaded.

AND SO IS THE MOTOR!!!! :biggrin:

Tom (motorhead) lives closeby, and being a good sport and all around nice guy, he came over to lend a helping hand. We got things started by clearing off the lift(God, it's been a while!)

[image: Posted Image]

Then positioned the motor, and taped off a few spots on it, and on the frame.
[image: Posted Image]

Very gingerly lifted the frame up over and then down onto the block:
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

No powdercoat was harmed! :cool:

Then we fought with the mounting bolts for a little while, but we got'er dun :beer:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Of course, there's no stopping there. To get the full effect, we had to toss the wheels & forks on!!
[image: Posted Image]

I think Tom was about as excited as I was! :goofy:
[image: Posted Image]


Later on in the afternoon, I fiddled with the oil mod some more. Added a clip to the little bracket, attached the 90deg fitting and hose to the NPT adapter, etc.

[image: Posted Image]

The -4 hose coming up from the case is not coated, so I slipped on a piece of heatshrink tubing to protect the starter, frame, and engine mount.
[image: Posted Image]

Here's the clearance gained by offsetting the hole:
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Plenty of room in there, I can fit a #2 pencil between the frame and fitting easily!

[image: Posted Image]



[image: Posted Image]

:cool:
#77
Right behind you little budy :ph34r: .

[image: Posted Image]
Remove heads 1 019.JPG

[image: Posted Image]
Remove heads 1 014.JPG

[image: Posted Image]
Remove heads 1 020.JPG

Stephen
#78
Speaking of wheel swaps, I have a nice tight fit in the rear, and all looks like it's lining up well. Won't know 100% until I get a chain & sprockets in, but it's looking good.

I'm using a Jamie D machined F2 hub along with 3 spacers I made from 6061 T6 aluminum, and a CBR600F4i rear brake caliper & bracket(1000RR brake rotor on the F2 wheel). During a long conference over the phone, VF1000RS & I worked out the spacer dimensions, so big thanks to him for that. Once I know for sure that this lines up 100% as-is, I will stick my VF500 hub in there and see how the dimensions work out.

In the front, on the other hand, I need to do some work. I'm using the 1000R forks with a custom brace and F2 wheel, combined with Jamie's machined speedo drive. As it's put together now, the wheel is off to the right side of the bike. There is a process defined in the 1kR manual for wheel installation that I need to go look up, to see if that makes a difference.
#79

[image: View Post]Kel, on Mar 9 2009, 06:01 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Mar 9 2009, 07:50 AM, said:

In the front, on the other hand, I need to do some work. I'm using the 1000R forks with a custom brace and F2 wheel, combined with Jamie's machined speedo drive. As it's put together now, the wheel is off to the right side of the bike. There is a process defined in the 1kR manual for wheel installation that I need to go look up, to see if that makes a difference.

You are using the kR axle I assume. Odd, is the speedo drive pushing it too far? The axle goes a certain way. If I remember correctly, the axle head is on the speedo side with the "nut" on the right side of the bike. The "nut" has a small lip, this obviouly goes outside the quick release lever. I've noticed some aftermarket bearings can be wider/narrower than stock, maybe check there. How far off is it?


Nut is on the clutch side, opposite the speedo drive which has the solid end of the axle on the left side of the bike. No spacer on the right, there is maybe .030" of play, and rotor to fork leg clearance on the clutch(right) side is almost non existent. This is without the caliper brackets attached, by the way. I'm sure there would be interference there.

I remember vfrcapn had the same problem with his Jamie D kit, but he was able to fit the spacer on the right. I already pm'ed Mike to try and spur his memory. Not sure if he worked it out or gave up trying to make it work and went with the '51 front end.

I've got way too much time and money in these R forks to give up on them, so I'm going to have to find a way!
#80
Change channel. Does your cams have oil holes in the heals of the cam lobes? My first set of cams DID NOT and I lost a cam lobe. I em the second owner and
Honda would not warranty them. One day I was at a auto wrecking yard and I saw a interceptor frame and engine laying out front. I asked what's up with the bike?
They said the engine is locked up and they are selling it for parts. I pulled the valve covers and all 4 cams were in good shape. I bought the engine complete and have used many parts off it over the years. Well the cam's have been in the bike for over 100,000 mi. and no problems. And that is one reason why I have not did a oil mod. I em thinking of doing mine with brake lines. Any pro's and con's with brake lines?

Stephen
#81
Radiator before:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Radiator after:

[image: Posted Image]

Radiator + misc other parts, all except the rad were glass bead blasted and acetone rinsed prior to spray can painting - the hoses were Armor-All'ed. High temp flat black on the headers(total cheeseout on my part, still have plans to do better!), satin black on the triangle plates/spacers and kickstand to match the frame, gloss black on the armor coils/lower rad stone guard/water pump cover, and Fusion gloss black for plastic on the upper rad shroud and stone guard.

[image: Posted Image]

Water pipes that go in the "V" of the motor:

[image: Posted Image]

The rad cap was painted OFF the rad, not attached as shown...
#82

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Mar 10 2009, 01:45 PM, said:

Not sure, got a pic I can compare to?

Sorry it took so long. The car broke down and I have been trying to get head gaskets for my bike (I will post info on that on my thread).

Here is my original cam from my 3-83. You can see it has no oil hole in the lobe. And the 10mm freeze plug in the end had a hole in it (no photo).
[image: Posted Image]
Putting the back on 100.JPG

And here is I think late 83 or 84 cams. You can see a oil hole. I have about 100,000 mi's on these cams.
[image: Posted Image]
Putting the back on 094.JPG

I'm just worried about your bike with such low mi's. I have never read any thing about this but it makes sense.

Stephen
#83
Having the oil hole is no guarantee of cam survival - I have cams with oil holes and at 70K Kms and two of the eight have pitting on them - no oil mod installed until last season. An oil mod is cheap insurance IMHO - from what I've read the oil mod completely cured the cam wear problem not just delayed it.
#84

[image: View Post]undrh2o, on Mar 25 2009, 10:56 AM, said:

Having the oil hole is no guarantee of cam survival - I have cams with oil holes and at 70K Kms and two of the eight have pitting on them - no oil mod installed until last season. An oil mod is cheap insurance IMHO - from what I've read the oil mod completely cured the cam wear problem not just delayed it.


You are right, I have one cam lobe with some small pitting (I have cam's with oil holes and no oil mod). I em now installing a oil mod.

[image: Posted Image]
Remove heads 1 020.JPG
ps: don't drill the hole as I have done, off set it closer to the inside (closer to the center of the engine. Gives you more room away from the frame).
Stephen
#85
Well, I knew I was going to make my life harder by trading away my '85 700F before I finished this bike, but I'm only realizing now how much I screwed myself.

It seems like every day this week I'm looking for one little screw, one nice bracket, or a pair of water hose P-clips. I walk circles around the shop looking for something to use, or to find where I put something that I forgot to bag and label. Only to find myself unable to complete another small task that puts me farther behind & puts off the day I get to start this puppy and take her down the road.

All things that could have been pulled from a parts bike in minutes.

Note to self - follow your gut next time & don't be a moron when taking things apart - you KNOW you won't find them later!!!

The cursed pain of OCD... only relieved by the completion of the task...
#86
Here's a few things I did manage to do...

Wiring harness re-wrap & upgrade is underway:
[image: Posted Image]

Cleaned up the airbox & installed the K&N air filter.

Before:
[image: Posted Image]

After:
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

I wasn't quite happy with the pitted chrome on the diaphragm tops on the carbs, so I removed them, wire wheeled them, and painted them ultra flat black(you're welcome Timmy!)

Before:
[image: Posted Image]

During:
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

After:
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Also started the Accel coil install. I don't want to use the universal setup that Accel provides, looks kinda hack. The stock brackets won't work on their own, so I had to make my own brackets from aluminum stock. I'll get some pics up of those soon.
[image: Posted Image]

I need some hardware to put this carb/airbox assembly together, if anyone has spare fasteners please let me know!

I need 1 airbox top screw, all 5 screws that hold the airbox to the plenum, and 1 coil bracket mount screw.

Thanks!
#87
Also installed the 132 main jets while I was in there... :fing02:
#88
I'm thinking I'll eliminate the crankcase breather bottle & hose, and stick a little automotive breather on there instead. Like one of these little guys:
[image: Posted Image]

Also thinking of replacing the stock coolant overflow with something else - but what? Would like something smaller anyway, and I'm not sold on strapping a bottle to the frame the way HRC did.
#89

[image: View Post]ss_burns, on Apr 20 2009, 03:01 PM, said:

Quote

Also started the Accel coil install. I don't want to use the universal setup that Accel provides, looks kinda hack. The stock brackets won't work on their own, so I had to make my own brackets from aluminum stock. I'll get some pics up of those soon.

I'm curious now.. take some pics of what you come up w/ for the coil mounting... yes, the Accel setup is hack. :)


Here you go Burnsie - forgot I took these!

Still need to add a little clearance for the rivets:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]
#90
New sprockets came in!

Front 520 16T (meant for CBR900RR) is installed:
[image: Posted Image]

Paint is drying on the rear 44T CBR600F2 sprocket(and also on the lower rad):
[image: Posted Image]

Both sprockets are made by Parts Unlimited and are steel.

I'll be installing this gold RK 520XSO chain tomorrow:
[image: Posted Image]

With any luck, I'll find the bolts I need to install the reg/rec tray and the fuel pump I just cleaned up:
[image: Posted Image]

Hopefully more to report tomorrow!
#91
Got the wires yesterday, and the local Honda place had (4) of the NGK straight caps in stock(gasp!!) and they almost matched the online price I gave them(gasp!!).

Also got the rear wheel assembled, punch marked my aluminum spacers for future reference, and got the chain almost on. Right now it's just draped on, the chain was a bit too short to begin with(I bought it for my F4i a while ago), but a member here sent me a leftover piece of the exact same chain last year to make up the difference. I have 2 master links so I can splice the short and long lengths together, will try and get that done tonight, and get some pics!

I'm also going to try to get the coil brackets finished up so I can mount the coils, mount the carbs in the bike, get the airbox in, etc.

I'm getting closer!! :biggrin:
#92

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on May 23 2009, 03:07 PM, said:

Just finished up the Accel coil brackets... I think I might paint them and then install the carbs in the bike! I'll have to double check the float heights first... pics hopefully sooner than later!


Hey, just ran across this thread and I've only got one thing to say......

YOU S.O.B!

Have you been peeking in my shop?!? :blink:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Now I have to tear it all apart again and take the build to the next level! I even have been fitting vf1000f side covers before final paint. Now I run across your thread where you're doing it too! :blink:


I'm just joking with your of course. You've done some really nice work there. I particularly like the carb rework. Black diaphragm covers are especially nice.

I've been working on my 750 for the better part of 10 years now. I spend most of my time on the Yahoo "interceptors" list. Seems I need to Google a bit more when there's good stuff like this "out and about".

Here's a little "rundown" on my old girl if you're interested;

-1985 vf750f (Canadian model)
-29,000 kms. I found it low mileage many moons back. Bought it because I had a new one in high school (first year, 1983) and have been tinkering with it ever since.
-CBR600F2 front and rear wheels. I stripped them down and painted/polished them to look like the original VF750F wheels. Machined my own spacers, speedo gear and rear drive hub.
-Rear CBRF2 brakes
-front F2 brake rotors
-Stainless steel lines, front and rear
-tossed in a lower temp fan switch (from a Honda Accord IIRC)
-homemade fender eliminator. I kept the rear frame rails and stock indicators for the original look. I also use the rails to assist me when "pedaling" the bike backwards (one arm behind and pulling up on the tail makes it easier)
-powder coated frame in original silver (done a full frame off also, just the plastic is waiting for paint)
-VF1000f front forks (I welded up the air balance holes also). 41mm tubes vice the stock vf750f 38mm.
-CBR600F2 rear shock (resprung, revalved). Machined my own adapters for the lower mount.
-Rebuilt stock exhaust with NOS cans from Honda. That was pretty expensive but worth it for the stock appearance...
- center stand is gone. It doesn't reach the ground any more anyways because of the change in suspension heights....

Plans in the shop;

- Hindle 4 into 1 that's currently undergoing R&R, or I may use it as a template. It's pretty beat up...
- Aluminum can for the Hindle. Currently sitting on the shelf.
-VF1000F side covers (you bastard!)
- Body work repaint. I have a complete set of NOS Honda stripes and stickers that are going on her when ready. I've got a very good parts guy who hunted them all down for me :) . I'm toying with the idea of painting the plastics Corvette "atomic orange", bu tit will be done on separate plastics so I can pop the red/white/blue (classic interceptor) back on when I want.
- plan on installing the gold emulators in the VF1000f forks as you did, but time and money is making that a little difficult right now...
-VF1000R oil pump for the increased pressure/flow. It's reputed to be an 18% increase over the stock VF750F unit. I've always had a bit of "trepidation" about tapping the main gallery and pulling off pressure from the mains with the oil modification kits available.This seems a better option to me...
-I have a 2005 CBR600RR shock on the way. Going to see if it can be made to work...

Again, nice work and can't wait to see it "roll out" of the shop.

Nice to see I'm not the only one who truly appreciates the virtues and styling of the original "Vunderbike"....
#93

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on May 24 2009, 05:23 PM, said:

Thanks for the comments greatwhite, and welcome again! :biggrin:

And here I thought I was the first to try using the 1000F side panels... dammitol! :goofy:

What's your location?


Well, that's a bit hard to understand unless you know what being in the military means.

The bike is in Nova Scotia right now, but I'm in British Columbia.

The bike and the "Fam" will be joining me out here in the fall...

Like you, I'm not a huge fan of the open "triangle" either. Always seemed kind of unfinished. Some say it was for cooling reasons, but I think it was a styling choice to show off the rear cylinders of the "New For 83" V4 engine.
I found the vf1000f side covers to actually be too long and I had to cut them down. The rear profile doesn't seem to line up perfectly with the 750 duck tail so a little rework is in order for mine. After that it will be fabbing up some "push tabs" for the 750 side cover rubber mounts.

I've also got an 86 vfr750 tank I'm thinking about using (ala Tom's mutant 1000r) but then the vf1000f side covers won't match up....

Hmmm, what to do?

What to do.....
#94
Sounds like you've got some time to think about your choices... it's too bad that you're away from your bike during the short Canadian riding season!

In the meantime, here's some pics of work I've done lately:

Finished the brackets for the Accel coils:
[image: Posted Image]

And painted them - I did them in flat black like the diaphragm tops, but I'm not sold on it and may add a new coat of gloss black instead of leaving them..
[image: Posted Image]

Almost got the new 520 chain installed. I had a 110 link chain from a previous project, but need a 112 for this bike. Someone from the board sent me 6 links of the exact same chain that they had left over, so with two master links and one link of the gift, I can make a good 112 link chain. Problem is, I have one gold rivet-type master, and one silver clip-type master. I don't mind the silver link, but I refuse to use a clip link!!
[image: Posted Image]

I'm not sure I like the black sprocket either. I can't imagine cleaning a white one though... God help me!

Lower rad is installed, I need a couple grommets and spacers for the top rad mount so I can get that one in there too. I remember that the two originals were rotted and I had thrown them away, let's hope Honda hasn't discontinued them...
[image: Posted Image]

Oil mod is complete!
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

I don't think I posted the battery box all finished up:
[image: Posted Image]

Here's what I'm thinking of for the brake torque arm - minus the socket, of course:
[image: Posted Image]

I'm also thinking of making a new torque arm so I can integrate it, and keep it from looking like a botch job.



And speaking of botch jobs, anyone think I should leave the "Red Bull mod" on the bike when it's done? :biggrin:
[image: Posted Image]
#95
Oh and, the float heights are set, carbs are ready to in once I figure out what to do with the brackets.

Also, the clamps on the (new) carb insulators are taken from two different sets of F4i throttle bodies that I had out in the shed. they look mo' betta than the original ones, and have hex heads + the Phillips head, so, no more stripping the clamps! Yay!
#96
OCD you say...your right coil looks crooked. :biggrin:
Ditch the red bull can and get a nos can.(Dont forget to pour the drink in your tank first so it runs good!) :laugh:
[image: Posted Image]
nos for da horsepowaz!.jpg
Bike is looking fantastic...so how much you want for it when your done?
#97

[image: View Post]SkeeBoy, on May 26 2009, 01:05 AM, said:

OCD you say...your right coil looks crooked. :biggrin:
Ditch the red bull can and get a nos can.(Dont forget to pour the drink in your tank first so it runs good!) :laugh:
[image: Posted Image]
nos for da horsepowaz!.jpg
Bike is looking fantastic...so how much you want for it when your done?


They're both a little crooked, there is a second set in the works, but these are staying in to get it running! :biggrin:

Make me an offer! :cool:
#98

Always liked those Zephyrs. Great basic bike, classic looks.

Seems like the improvements you're making will really set it apart.

#100

Hello Seb.

I've just signed up to the forum in order join the ranks of those who have already thanked you for sharing such an great restoration project. My first big bike was a VF400F but I've been dreaming of getting hold of a VF750F to restore for years. I often scan the internet for pictures and information relating to this machine and have to say that it has been a real pleasure to come across your thread which I've now read several times!

Whilst I'm still a few years off being able to afford a house with a garage, what I've found so inspirational about your project is the fact that it is the product of so many years of patience, planning, and something which you've done so thoroughly without being a wealthy guy.

Although I'm not yet able to even buy a bike to restore, your approach to the whole project has made me realize that I can begin my own restoration right now through planning, research, and by beginning to hunt down the bits and pieces I know I'll need for any modifications.

On a final note, after reading through yours and other threads relating to the VF's, its great to know that there is a good bunch of people with excellent knowledge of these bikes who are happy to share that knowledge.

Once again, a really inspirational project and can't wait to see the latest progress report.

Will

Edited July 4, 2010 by Berty
#101

The bike is sweet as... there are no words for your attention to detail... dedication is an understatement... I am in awe of your skill and knowledge and ability to take on new territory... keep it up dude, you're an inspiration... this bike will be even better than a new one back in the day... Honda should hire you!!

#102

what a great build!

#103

Awesome and inspiring build!

Thinking of doing something like this to my spare vf.

Can you tell me what the exhaust cost you? I'm interested is a V&H system, but here in the Netherlands it's very hard to acquire one :(

And is it possible that the guy who made it for you makes another one?

Thanks in advance and keep building :lobby:

Edited July 13, 2010 by Bowler
#104

Thanks for all the kind words guys. I have been busy with all sorts of bike work, none of which was related to this one. However, I may be on an upswing in personal interest here, as today I found myself cleaning the lift this poor beast has been strapped into for 2 years. I went so far as to finish riveting the master link on the chain, then wheeled it off & outside for a picture. It sure is dusty.

[image: gallery_5444_1301_496216.jpg]

#106

Very cool project. I just started reading this thread tonight. Got through 4 or 5 pages and finally had to skip to the "end". Really gets me reminiscing about my old '83. After close to 90 k great miles, I finally gave it to a friend who is "going to restore it someday". By the way, I'm curious. I was the third owner. PPO did all the mods. I always assumed the RWB was factory but I only see other '83s with RWR or BWB. Was RWB an option in 1983? I notice that the '84s seem to all be RWB. Also I was told this was a Basani exhaust. Anyone else know for sure? Great memories. Great resurection Seb. It'll be worth it.

[image: post-19514-044893000 1281926486_thumb.jp]

Edited August 16, 2010 by skymon
#107
skymon

Very cool project. I just started reading this thread tonight. Got through 4 or 5 pages and finally had to skip to the "end". Really gets me reminiscing about my old '83. After close to 90 k great miles, I finally gave it to a friend who is "going to restore it someday". By the way, I'm curious. I was the third owner. PPO did all the mods. I always assumed the RWB was factory but I only see other '83s with RWR or BWB. Was RWB an option in 1983? I notice that the '84s seem to all be RWB. Also I was told this was a Basani exhaust. Anyone else know for sure? Great memories. Great resurection Seb. It'll be worth it.

RWB was available in the US in that scheme in 1984... 83 was red/white or blue/white. Are those crash bars on the side, or is that a U-lock?

Not sure if that's a Bassani or not. I do see rearsets and a taller windscreen in there... not to mention that crazy screen on the FZ!!

#108
Veefer800Canuck

Git er dun Seb! :laughing6-hehe:

When I brought it back inside, I put the back wheel in the vise on the lift. That'll let me work on the front wheel spacers, which was where I left off.

- install front pads in calipers

- mount calipers

- decide on a front brake master

- assemble brake lines/clutch line

- bleed front brakes

- bleed clutch

- decide on rearsets

- install/bleed a rear brake

- modify torque arm for brake

- finish fork preload adjusters

- set sag / adjust chassis

- install rear signals

- install plate light

- plug in all electrics

- install exhaust ( after finishing fabrication...)

- fill oil

- fill coolant

- attempt 1st start

If the bike starts and everything works, then there's another list of a million little things to do.

- finish fitting 1kF side panels

- finalize mirror style and fitment

The cherry on the cake will be the repaint.

#109
SEBSPEED

The cherry on the cake will be the repaint.

Then maybe a display stand in the living room! It's looking great, looking forward to that first ride report and pics. :fing02:

#111

Seb; this thread really needs to be pinned like Sparrow's. This should be mandatory viewing for every early VF rider.

Can't wait to see more progress on this one!

#112
buellosaurusrex

Seb; this thread really needs to be pinned like Sparrow's. This should be mandatory viewing for every early VF rider.

Can't wait to see more progress on this one!

Thank you.

On this date, 8 years ago, I started disassembling the bike to start the restoration. Hard to believe it's been this long already.

#113
SEBSPEED

On this date, 8 years ago

8 years!!! WOW. I can understand though, after seeing your garage! You have your hands in _*MANY*_ projects!

#114

Sebspeed

inspiration inspiration

Any updates?

#115
fjsvf750

Sebspeed

inspiration inspiration

Any updates?

Slapped together a brake torque rod for the rear caliper(F4i unit).

Finally going to order the fittings I need to make all my brake and clutch lines.

We'll see how things progress over the winter. Lots of bike stuff going on lately!

#116

No updates in a year?

I know you've worked on it...at least a little! Come on, Seb...you holding out on us?

#117

I'd like to think he's laying low, while working furiously on the bike to surprise us all at Tmac by riding it there!

#118
Veefer800Canuck

I'd like to think he's laying low, while working furiously on the bike to surprise us all at Tmac by riding it there!

That sounds good, let's go with that...

:sad:

#119

Only 14 more days until we're on equal footing...

#121

Hard to believe so much time has gone by. The last up-to-date pic I posted was in August of 2010... and zero progress has been made.

Today I moved the bike for the first time in a very long time. Cleaning and rearranging my shop to make room for a lathe, time to get all the bikes out and do a thorough cleaning!

The poor VF has built up quite the layer of dust. I'm sure it enjoyed the hours of sunshine it got today. Pretty sure I'm going to pull half of it apart again to clean it before I dig in and finish. Can't bring myself to move on, without bringing it back up to the level it was on 1.5 years ago.

Anyway, here are a few pics.

Took a little while to clear the clutter from around/under the lift. Also lubed and cleaned the lift before moving it.

[image: da2213e9.jpg]

Out in the fresh air & sunshine!

[image: aa0744ce.jpg]

[image: 66e9ea72.jpg]

[image: 0d265bba.jpg]

My new shop layout will have the bikes and the dirty equipment separated a bit more, maybe that'll cut down on the dusty mess. I'm looking at dust collection for my tools too.

After a little test sit, I remembered why I started this project. So instead of rolling it back up on its pedestal, I tucked it in the corner with its stablemates. Maybe that'll entice me to show her a little love again soon...

[image: 74b1e6a7.jpg]

#122

Have you rolled over 2998 miles yet from pushing it around the garage?

#123
I might have, if the gauges were connected... :rolleyes:
#125
Everything is in a hold pattern at the moment, I bought a decent size lathe and I had to rearrange the whole shop to get it in.
#126
Awesome thread.  Excited to see the work start up again.  I plan to do a similar project later this summer.  Similar as in,  CBR wheels on a VF700/750 :laugh:   and that's about it.  Looks great though.  Thanks for the motivation.
#127
Thanks. The lathe is in, but with 4 ongoing projects fighting for attention, I can't make any promises.

[image: Posted Image]
#128

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 12 May 2012 - 08:50 AM, said:

Thanks. The lathe is in, but with 4 ongoing projects fighting for attention, I can't make any promises.

[image: Posted Image]


"Mom, I miss Dad."
#129
Nice!  I'm not allowed to have big tools like that.  I'd hurt myself.
#131

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 12 May 2012 - 09:56 AM, said:

Any space to the right for a milling machine?

Boy I hope so.

The guy I bought the lathe from also has a decent benchtop mill, but I'm not sure that it's what I want.
#132

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 12 May 2012 - 09:56 AM, said:

Any space to the right for a milling machine?
...and a sandblast cabinet,...and a paint booth,...and a powdercoating oven,  etc, etc.
#133

[image: View Post]Pops, on 12 May 2012 - 12:03 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 12 May 2012 - 09:56 AM, said:

Any space to the right for a milling machine?
...and a sandblast cabinet,...and a paint booth,...and a powdercoating oven,  etc, etc.

I have 2 blast cabinets, medium size one in my shop for glass bead and a big one for sandblasting that I'm keeping at the auto body shop where I do all my paint work. :biggrin:
#134

I know. I didn't know what the name of their company was though


Thought I had that in there. Wells Upholstery in Ohio. Send a PM to "theoxmole", his parents own the business and his mum made my cover.
#135
It was in there. apparently I wasn't paying attention. (too busy lookin at pics)😄
#136
Launch date in time for TexasMac 2013???

Do I have to come down there and help you get it off the workbench?
#139
bumpity-bump.

you didn't think we'd let you forget, did you???
#140
I am not in a rush to put miles on this bike. Can you tell?
#141

Your brand new tires will be stale dated by the time she's ready to rumble.


#142
Probably. Some squid on cragslist may want them.

There will also be a great layer of dust on all those newly painted and polished parts.

It will get done eventually.
#143

Hey! how come the pics from earlier in this post are all gone?


#144

I think I renamed the album and killed all the pic links, sorry...


#145
Bump.........

Approaching year 6

Must be over 3000 miles on it now, just from pushing it around the shop, eh?
#146
Speedo is still bubble wrapped in the cabinet... no accumulation... and not much movement either.
#148

Launch date in time for TexasMac 2013???

Do I have to come down there and help you get it off the workbench?

'15? :goofy:

What I saw in October was pretty sweet! 


#149
Will probably be a few more years unless someone waves too much $$ in my face.

Finally have the addition mostly sorted, ready to kick things up a notch but the VF is not high on the priority list. It won't stay "low mileage" once it's finished...
End of thread · 149 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 10 Apr 2020