I figure a post a day keeps the doctor away. So I pulled my carbs but not sure what to remove, from my other post it sounds like I remove the 2 jets which I circled on the picture but I am not sure what to do with the thing that I put a question mark by. Also is there anything else that I should be removing and cleaning.
Yes, you can remove the 2 jets, the slow speed may be plugged. But if it doesn't start cold the choke circuit is plugged, thats the brass tip sticking up to the right of the top jet. Use a small piece of wire (strand of copper), soak it, whatever. Then make sure when you spray carb cleaner through it, that it flows into the carb throat.
[image: View Post]steve_mn, on Jun 4 2008, 11:48 AM, said:
Yes, you can remove the 2 jets, the slow speed may be plugged. But if it doesn't start cold the choke circuit is plugged, thats the brass tip sticking up to the right of the top jet. Use a small piece of wire (strand of copper), soak it, whatever. Then make sure when you spray carb cleaner through it, that it flows into the carb throat.
Thanks for the help, I finally got the bike running without the choke. This is my first VFR and was the first time I got to ride it since I got it about two weeks ago. What a smooth ride, I think my other bike is going to be seeing allot of garage time.
[image: View Post]FotoMoto, on Jun 5 2008, 11:05 AM, said:
Now you need to sync the carbs together to work as a team. Then that V4 will really purr.
Synching the carbs is definitely next on my list, I tried searching the forum on how to do it but could not find a how to, I saw posts about the tools for it but not how to do it. Any help on the tools I would need and how to do it would be greatly appreciated,
You need a set of carb sticks or similar tool that can measure the vacuums created by each of the carburetors. The one I have Is 4 plastic tubes that draw mercury upward from a reservoir at the bottom.
Then you have to get all 4 within 1.2in of mercury from each other by adjusting the screws on the carb bodies. Cylinders #2-4 you have to match up with #1 as it the primary and cannot be adjusted.
There are vacuum ports on each of the three cylinders right below where the carb boots attatch to the engine. I'm sure you've noticed them if you have the carbs removed. You need to either remove the vacuum line or remove the rubber cap, and this is where you attatch the carb sticks or similar tool.
Hope this helps!
Search the net for lots of home brew synch gauges for vacuum readings. I use an automotive carb adjusting tool (basically a long flex cable screwdriver) to make the actual adjustments. I also make some short length vacuum lines, leave them attached to the ports, and plug them (currently with golf tees! HAH) so on the next synch I can easily reach them and attach to the gauges.
The synch procedure is explained in the manual. Check the forum for a download if you don't have it or order one online. I actually prefer the haynes or clymer manuals because they sometimes have work arounds or substitutions for expensive OEM tools.
End of thread · 8 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 28 Aug 2010