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Yet Another 86 Rebuild Project...

94 posts Started 27 Oct 2008 Last recovered post 19 Jun 2010 Wayback Machine snapshot 4 Jun 2011
#1 SEBSPEED Thread starter
I haven't finished my 750F project, but have a new member in the family now that I just had to get!

I drove down to Maryland on Friday and traded my 85 700F and an 83 750F rolling chassis to Timmy for his 22,000 mile 86 VFR700 and a set of F2 forks with trees. I have a LOT of great(and some not so great) memories of my 700, but its future was not too bright at my place now that I'm restoring the 750, so... time to move on.

The 86 is a bit rough. It was laid down on at least one side, the upper stay & subframe are pretty bent, but the frame looks nice as does the swingarm. On the upside, it came with a Fox twin clicker, a K&N filter, Factory jet kit, and a 4-2-1 Yosh pipe.

I decided I'm going to go completely against the grain with this bike, if you were hoping "oh Seb's gonna make a nice tastefully modded 86 and do it justice", think again.

My current thoughts are, but are not limited to:

Bodywork:
-A Kawasaki 636 racing upper, bottom shaped a bit with no lower fairing, one 636 headlight, a VTEC tank(maybe, might be too big), and Ducati 1098 tail(trying for a stock tail, but they are pricey, might just get race parts). I'll be building an all-new subframe from aluminum to support a solo tail. This will be a no-passenger bike.

Here's a really rough and lame attempt at a rendering using MS Paint(don't laugh too hard Dutch!) (and no, it won't be green!)
[image: Posted Image]

Suspension:
In the front, I will use the F2 forks(they are 1994 forks with cartridge internals!), but I'm unsure yet if I'll use an F2 or F3 wheel. originally I was thinking of 636 forks or other USD forks, but then Tim & I came across the F2 forks at his brother's shop and the price couldn't be beaten... Wheels, I wanted 636 wheels... not sure if that will work in the F2 fork... probly not. I would like the floating rotors of the F3 and could care less about the speedo drive, I really don't like the boxy RC26 gauges anyway. I'll use a Veypor/Vapor/Koso/Acewell gauge set either way.

In the rear - more options. I need to tear the bike down a bit more before I can make a call on the swingarm swap, but I have a spare CBR600F4i swingarm here, apparently someone has fitted one on a second gen once before - so it can be done! I have fitted a 2004 600RR swingarm to my F4i, so I know that if the F4i fits, so will the RR unit... oh, the possibilities!
Proof:
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Third option is to brace the stock swingarm a la Chuck Crites. Just can't leave it stock! :biggrin: Bonus staying stock is that I get to keep the Fox shock in there... I have a 900RR rear wheel that will fit a 180 tire, going to try fitting it with a VF500 hub real soon.

Motor:
... will stay as-is, already has been jetted, so, just clean it up/repaint the case and valve covers, a little S100 and a carb clean, she'll be good to go.

Exhaust:
Already has what looks like a full Yoshimura system, I'm just going to stretch it up under the tail and weld up an exhaust out of sheetmetal. I kinda like the exhausts that Competition Werkes makes for some new bikes, they look and sound different.
[image: Posted Image]
My challenge will be maiking a shape that looks right with the 1098 tail. If I'm lucky, I'll get to build it out of titanium(the can part). Another option is a pair of '08 ZX10R cans that Timmy also sent home with me... positioned closely together, they've got some potential!
[image: Posted Image]

They're aluminum and titanium, pretty light, especially after I gut them out and install some perfed cores to get real sound out of them.

Other stuff:
Going to to a lot of misc stuff - cleaning, polishing, painting, etc, and also going through all the maintenance with coolant, fork seals and oil, engine oil, brake fluid. I'll probably add some newer switch pods from a different bike and newer master cylinders.

I got so excited when I got the bike home that I didn't take a before pic, so here's one Timmy sent me:
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Here it is as of right now:
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So many projects, so little time! :blush:
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ANY comments and feedback is welcome, the last words I want to throw out there against the "paint it RW&B with stock bodywork" guys are - light weight. That stock subframe is huge, and kinda heavy! The big plastic mudguard/fender thing is pretty heavy also. Between the new subframe, exhaust, and wheels, we're already talking a substantial savings in the right places. Get rid of the weight of the stock bodywork and a bunch of miscellaneous stuff, well, you get the idea. Fuuun stuff!

:cool:
#2 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]RE-Agent, on Oct 26 2008, 10:28 PM, said:

Isn't that an '87? My '86 700 had a RWB scheme with a wing on the tank.

According to the VIN tag, and the title, it's an 86 RC26.
[image: Posted Image]

Wasn't the RW&B optional back then? (along with the 750 motor?)
#4 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]fatso127, on Oct 27 2008, 04:51 PM, said:

Ok i was waiting to see your plans for the new vfr. I knew you had been asking around for ideas. Congrats on the new addition. my question is how in holy bat crap are you going to get the kaw upper fairing to work? I have been searching all over the place for some ideas on how to fit new upper and side fairing on the 2nd gens. No luck.

I know i will be watching this one closely...

It will be interesting, I can tell you that. I won't know how to do it for sure until I have a part in my hands. First thing that comes to mind is to get a 636 stay, cut off the end that attaches to the frame and make new mount points. I'm shopping for aluminum square and round stock this week... almost have all my card bills paid down so I can think about buying my TIG welder. Just bought the Duc side panels that blend the tail into the tank, will be interesting to see if they mate up to the VFR tank or not.

ps - not using the VTEC tank. It's WAY too big, looks clown-like on the bike. That's cool though, gets me more excited about how much smaller/lighter/more fun this thing will be.
#5 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on Oct 26 2008, 11:04 PM, said:

this frame reminds me so much of the 86
**
and those hawk guys have had no worries making thier bikes cool
[image: Posted Image]

True, true.

All that guy in the second pic needs now is an RC51 motor... :goofy: Sweet bike! The single nut wheel is always a plus in the looks department.
#6 timmythecop

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 27 2008, 06:00 PM, said:

Just bought the Duc side panels that blend the tail into the tank, will be interesting to see if they mate up to the VFR tank or not.

ps - not using the VTEC tank. It's WAY too big, looks clown-like on the bike. That's cool though, gets me more excited about how much smaller/lighter/more fun this thing will be.

so, are you using this one. If so, I should get off my ass and get it up to you.
[image: Posted Image]
#7 SEBSPEED Thread starter
Yessir. Had a question for you on that - the coating you were telling me about, is it flexible after it cures?

I'm asking because I may want to put (2) strategically placed dents in it right before I paint it. (How's that for pissing off the tried & true VFR lovers? :goofy: )

I'll give a reason so you don't flame me too much... I'm thinking that the new round Honda tank logo would look nice recessed in the skin of the tank, like on the new bikes... :wub:

So yeah, get your azz up here!
#8 SEBSPEED Thread starter
It's got a couple dents in it, one smaller one, and one bigger one smack on the back throttle side corner... fixable with bondo, but - the second tank Timmy has is solid and miraculously dent-free, just has a light coat of Maryland rust that needs to be taken care of.


Just uploaded more pics -

Got the carbs out! I thought it was going to be harder, but I gave each carb boot a shot of PB Blaster & used 2 big screwdrivers carefully under the rear diaphragm tops to pry the rears out first, then wiggled the fronts out.
[image: Posted Image]

Timmy, I did end up getting a little water down the intake, I could see it sitting on top of one of the valves... so I gave that a shot of blaster too, and tried to soak most of it up by stuffing shop towels down there. I think I got it all.

The previous owner/mechanic musta been one smart cookie... looks like he/they fixed a leaky float bowl by sealing it with JB Weld... :blink:
[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

Overall they don't look too bad. They need to be rebuilt with o-rings, new float bowl screws, rubber parts, etc.

Looks like the guy had some JB Weld left over, so he used it to "fix" the back of the gauge cluster...
[image: Posted Image]

But guess what? That's perfect. I needed bigger sockets for the LEDs I bought for my 83 gauges, now I have them!! Yay! Gotta do a little reaming on the 83 cluster , but I've done some measuring and they will slide right in! :fing02: :fing02:

The upper stay is pretty bent, had to wiggle the cluster out. Good thing I don't need that anymore either, save for maybe some scrap steel...
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If you have a keen eye, you will have noticed that the stock tire is no longer in the bike. If you didn't notice, here's a better shot! :goofy:
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CBR900RR 5.5" rear, currently has a garbage 190 Cheng Shin on it.
[image: Posted Image]

Chain clearance is a bit of an issue, but not a horrible subject here. Looks to be off center by ~.400 with the 190 tire, will be less of an issue with the 180, less yet if I run a 520 chain conversion... I can mod the torque arm for the rear caliper(probably will just make a new one). I'm going to play with putting washers behind the countershaft sprocket and will install the 500 hub tomorrow, didn't have a chance to yank it from the bike today. Going to pull the garbage tire and throw on an old 180 for clearance checking.

That is all for now.
#9 timmythecop

[image: View Post]VF1000RS, on Oct 27 2008, 08:39 PM, said:

Err...what`s wrong with the tank on the bike? Same thing as the R/W/B....is it rusted through?

this isnt the worst of it

[image: Posted Image]
#10 timmythecop
[image: Posted Image]

nice pipe, shame about the rest. Looks good on you though.........

also seb, this works for you because i believe you have BMW hot weather gear in each of those 4 shades....... :ph34r:
#13 Tightwad
[image: Posted Image]

uploaded the pic for you, I have the same problem with Image Shack
#14 mellowyellow

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on Oct 28 2008, 06:27 PM, said:

[image: View Post]mellowyellow, on Oct 28 2008, 02:23 PM, said:

whats with the BMW bashing? :happy: first the gear now the bike?


no BMW bashing here. I'd have that bike in an instant.

me two[image: Posted Image]
Copy of 04-13-2008 (4).JPG
#16 timmythecop
Um Seb...........

I kinda snuck in your garage last night while you were snoozing. So anyway, me, the Grinch and Alanis Morrisette finished your bike. I hope you like it. dont look down......































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#17 timmythecop

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 31 2008, 07:33 AM, said:

So, how many of you would really hate me if I skipped the front fairing and stuck a set of dirt bike bars on this thing? :ph34r:

i've got some green harley military bars for you if you want em


[image: Posted Image]
#18 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on Oct 31 2008, 08:58 AM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 31 2008, 07:33 AM, said:

So, how many of you would really hate me if I skipped the front fairing and stuck a set of dirt bike bars on this thing? :ph34r:

i've got some green harley military bars for you if you want em


I was thinking more of:
[image: Posted Image]

:491:
#19 SEBSPEED Thread starter
No go on the 900RR clip ons, way too big for the tubes.

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Vaseline working its magic on the controls:
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Free Fatbar:
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ZX10R cans are an option:
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They'd look tasty hanging under the 1098 tail, that's for sure!

'05 600RR fender:
[image: Posted Image]


Oddball shot for Timmy - looks kinda Buell-ish to me... VTEC windshield upside down.
[image: Posted Image]

I had a thought about mounting a Hayabusa headlight in the windscreen. Paint the bottom half and trim it up a little... ?
#20 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]fatso127, on Oct 31 2008, 06:09 PM, said:

..Seb i just saw a TL1000 with only the top faring...and to be honest with you, it really did look nice...


You mean the TL1000S?
[image: Posted Image]

First liter bike I ever rode - what a rush!
#21 ron_al
Seb,

I'm not sure whether to post the short version or the long version. So I'll post the short version.

I doubt that the countershaft sprocket cover on the 3rd gen VFRs (1990-1993) includes a speedo drive - see Betarace's older post http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/.... The 3rd gen VFR has a mechanical speedo pickup, on the front fork - same as the 1st gen, same as the CBR600F2, same as a Hawk (but not the CBR600F3).

Perhaps it's possible to combine the speedo pickup (from the countershaft sprocket cover of another bike - 4th gen VFR, F3, etc.) with the countershaft sprocket cover from your 1st gen or from a 3rd gen (assuming that the 3rd gen cover fits on your bike). But that's idle speculation & I would not know.

Just what I recall - I don't have a 1st gen or a 3rd gen to know for sure. I hope that someone more knowledgeable can confirm this.

Ron
#22 keny

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 28 2008, 03:04 AM, said:

Chain clearance is a bit of an issue, but not a horrible subject here. Looks to be off center by ~.400 with the 190 tire, will be less of an issue with the 180, even more less if I run a 520 chain conversion...
I did a littel refreching in my old front sprocket mesurment for you.
First to notice is that the US version of 86-87 VFR750/700 has a diffrent sprocket front than the European. The splines are the same, but its diffrenth width, 14,5mm vs 16.8mm (US vs EU)
So the amounth that a nother sprocket move chain line outwards differ some.

US: 520 conversion front sprocket for CBR900/929/954, RC51 etc. move chain line 3,3mm outwards if installed so it move max outwards, 1,9mm outwards if installed the other way.
RC30 front sprocket move chainline 5,9mm! outwards. It use a 525 chain.
EU or all 90-> VFR front sprocket move chain line 1,1mm outwards.

EU: 520 conversion frontsprocket (CBR900/929/954) move chainline 2,2mm outside, or remain stock chain line.
RC30 front sprocket move chainline 4,8mm outwards.


Hope this is to same help :+1:
#23 keny

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 4 2008, 03:15 PM, said:

[image: View Post]keny, on Nov 4 2008, 09:04 AM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 4 2008, 02:33 PM, said:

Extremely helpful Keny! I did not get to spend much time in the garage yesterday, I will try to get your measurement tonight.

Just to be clear, I am looking for a US-spec RC30 front sprocket to gain an offset of 5.9mm, yes?
All RC30 have same sprocket no mather where they were slod.

Only the 86-87 VFR750/700 have diffrent front sprocket in US and EU + other World
Why they are diffrent, thats the good question....


Keny, do you know of any aftermarket companies that make RC30 sprockets? OEM is a bit expensive, and a quick search off the board did not turn up any results. Stock RC30 is a 16 tooth sprocket, not sure yet if that will be the right gearing for me, given the new tire size.

Thanks!


JT Sprockets made them and in a selection of 15, 16 and 17 tooth link to there site (and rc30 sprockets) You can proberly contact for neriest dealer to you.
#24 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]keny, on Nov 3 2008, 04:26 AM, said:

SEB

What is the distanse betwen the legs of the CBR600 f2? fork you have? Betwen, not center to center, and upper(crome).
I�m curius to know. And in mm if possible....


151.13mm!! :fing02: Measured with a dial caliper!
#25 SEBSPEED Thread starter
Couple new pics - I finally had a few minutes free time to go out behind the shed and pull the hub out of my VF500. Cleaned it up a bit with some degreaser and pulled the bearing out, since it was too small to allow the 700 axle through.

I also had to pull/pry/break off the little chain guide ring that the sprocket had on it, that was the first thing to touch off on the swingarm.

Stuck it in the 900RR wheel with the 500 cush rubbers, and draped the rusty old chain over it:
[image: Posted Image]

I played with the axle adjusters to make sure they were close and also tried to align the chain. That went surprisingly well considering that this is a 190 tire on this wheel!
[image: Posted Image]

Now that the sprocket guide is gone, the studs for the sprocket graze the arm:
[image: Posted Image]

Not to worry, I have room to move it to the right a bit.
[image: Posted Image]

I can get some lower profile nuts and grind the studs down a bit too. That combined with the RC30 front sprocket, which gives almost an extra quarter inch of clearance, and changing the tire to a 180 should solve the chain issue!

After that, I need to get the wheel on center and get some good measurements for spacers and that will finish that. Until the 600RR swingarm gets here...

Because, it's going to be tight getting an up pipe for the underseat exhaust through here:
[image: Posted Image]

I'm thinking I can section the stock arm, weld in a filler plate, brace the arm(like I wanted to do anyway), space the rearsets outboard a bit, and form the up pipe into an oval where it passes the arm to make it work, and maybe, *maybe* have enough room for a heat shield too...
[image: Posted Image]



Sure does look cool with a 190 on it...
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#26 keny
Seb, I dont know it this is to any help anymore as you alredy buoghta CBR600RR swing from ebay, buy I found the image that the brakes sent me when i asked for mesurmentf on my job computer! As a acciden as they change te folder where we store own documents and we had to chec all was ok.
Anyway here it is, and in cm.. 1cm=10mm
[image: Posted Image]
#27 keny

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 6 2008, 01:47 PM, said:

In looking at the VFR linkage, I seem to remember the RR linkage being longer(the one on the bottom that ties into the frame). That could be an issue also, as that's what defines how the shock works with the RR arm. This could be fine, or really bad.

At least I got a good price on the arm, so I can make my money back if it doesn't work(I hope!).
Yes, the RR arm you talk about is longer on the RR than the VFR. I dont know whitch you tend to use, rr or VFR. The RR has the shock more back that the VFR I think as the shock is in and bolted to the swing, and dont to frame. If you need a linkage whit lenght betwen the RR and VFR I have an idea. Anyway I dont know it your current VFR one is the aluminium one or a steel one that was used on 87-89, see pic below:
[image: Posted Image]
I think its posible to make new arms for it and grin of the weld of the old and then change to the new one.
#29 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]keny, on Nov 3 2008, 03:35 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 3 2008, 09:09 PM, said:

[image: View Post]evl_twn, on Nov 3 2008, 03:00 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 3 2008, 06:02 AM, said:

Evl Twn posted that the third gen sprocket cover does bolt right on, so I think we are set with the mod you posted about - using the 3rd gen speedo drive on the 86. :fing02:

I have not actually verified that nugget of information :blush: They don't use the same gasket, either, so I can't say for sure that they're interchangeable.



Aha, with that I will then pass the buck back to Keny... :goofy:


No problem, I�ll let you know when I got the parts ;)


Well, someone's done it before... not sure though if the parts are the same. I will try and get the Japanese site translated and post back...

[image: Posted Image]
#30 keny

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 9 2008, 06:29 PM, said:

[image: View Post]keny, on Nov 3 2008, 03:35 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 3 2008, 09:09 PM, said:

[image: View Post]evl_twn, on Nov 3 2008, 03:00 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 3 2008, 06:02 AM, said:

Evl Twn posted that the third gen sprocket cover does bolt right on, so I think we are set with the mod you posted about - using the 3rd gen speedo drive on the 86. :fing02:

I have not actually verified that nugget of information :blush: They don't use the same gasket, either, so I can't say for sure that they're interchangeable.



Aha, with that I will then pass the buck back to Keny... :goofy:


No problem, I�ll let you know when I got the parts ;)


Well, someone's done it before... not sure though if the parts are the same. I will try and get the Japanese site translated and post back...


There is a lot of info on that japanese site !

I cant get any info of that speedo, but if I�m correct, it seem he has done 2 wheel swamps to it. First CBR400RR 3,0-17 front and 4,5-18 rear whit a RC30 frontsprocket and 525 chain, then second swamp a NC30 rim front 3,5-17 and a 4,5-17 rim rear that I dont find were from, thro it looks like a CBR600 f2 wheel. I would like to see all text in english!
#31 keny

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 10 2008, 01:35 PM, said:

[image: View Post]keny, on Nov 10 2008, 04:54 AM, said:

There is a lot of info on that japanese site !

I cant get any info of that speedo, but if I�m correct, it seem he has done 2 wheel swamps to it. First CBR400RR 3,0-17 front and 4,5-18 rear whit a RC30 frontsprocket and 525 chain, then second swamp a NC30 rim front 3,5-17 and a 4,5-17 rim rear that I dont find were from, thro it looks like a CBR600 f2 wheel. I would like to see all text in english!

I didn't have time this weekend to get the site translated, it would be rough anyway, but one would get the jist of it.

In other news, I won a 636 headlight on ebay, so now there will be two options, streetfighter - or not-so-streetfighter!

Gratiolations of winning the bet on the 636 headlight :fing02:

No problem whit the translation, just would be currius.
Anyway seems the speedo drive can be from one of the bikes listed in the tabel in the site,
but most seem to be japanees only models. I tracked down cbr400rr pics from google, and I found this vf750f that is werry cool
[image: Posted Image]
and in this closeup you see better the speedo drive.
[image: Posted Image]
So I guess there is a werry good chanse the rc36 cover + speedo drive fits the rc24, as they seem to fit from model to model. Honda seem to have same standard on many things, and its understandable, it keeps cost down.
#34 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 7 2008, 06:57 AM, said:

My concern isn't making a new pair of arms, my concern is the effect that the different length of arm will have on the operation of the suspension.

I had to scrap the idea of keeping the RR swingarm on my F4i, because I didn't like the fit. Let's hope it goes better this time. The swingarm should arrive today!

I was wrong on the arrival of the swingarm, it should be on my doorstep when I get home today.

In the last couple days, I also got a new 525 chain, a 636 headlight, and a 636 upper fairing.

Still on my shopping list:
-F3 front wheel, axle, rotors, and calipers
-F3 clip ons(or compatible parts)
-Acewell gauge unit (or round VFR gauges)
-RC30 countershaft sprocket
-Sonic springs for F3 forks
-assorted aluminum tubing

I may have to get creative on gas tank, that means cutting one up and welding new sections in places...
#35 SEBSPEED Thread starter
Some parts on the way:

[image: Posted Image]

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On the headlight, I have a small dilemma. The headlight I bought has some light scratches on the right side, which I can buff out, no problem.

My original idea was to cut the headlight in half, and fill the other side of the fairing in. The 636 headlight is one of those one-eye type lights where one side is high beam, the other is low.

Can I get away with using a dual-beam bulb in either the high beam side, or the low beam side? Will I still have a decent light pattern on low beam out of the high side, and vice versa?
#36 VF1000RS
I like the one-eye look. I`m guessing you should hook a battery to the bulbs and then your idea of the dual filament bulb and shoot it at a wall, in the dark, and measure the distance...or just do it anyway. I`m thinking left eye would be more better.
#37 SEBSPEED Thread starter
Thanks for your input Tom. The left side is the low-beam side, by the way.
#38 Peto
I converted a one-eyed 2007 tiger1050. It was two different pods with two different bulbs (H7 low & H9 high). The low beam side had a metal cut-off shield inside. Had to separate the lens and remove the metal shield. Drill out the pods to accept H4 bulbs (have built in shields). The high beam pod was a mirror finish/ while the low beam was more of a frosty finish. I polished the low beam pod to match the high beam pod. Had to get a bit creative with clips to hold the bulbs in place but no big deal. Re-sealed the headlight.

As an added bonus, one-eyed bikes are pre wires for adding high beams to low beams, as opposed to switching between them, so I went a step further and spit each wire (hi/lo) to each bulb. Now, both bulbs come on on low, and both filaments in both bulbs come on on high.

It took a bit of adjusting to get the aim right (both were off filaments were in different places). The end result was a damn fine pair of lights with a good beam patern.

Depends on how much time you want to spend.
#39 Peto
as a side note.

With all your bikes and everything in pieces - How do you keep all the screws/washers organized?
#40 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]Peto, on Nov 12 2008, 01:12 AM, said:

as a side note.

With all your bikes and everything in pieces - How do you keep all the screws/washers organized?

I have a crapload of small parts bags that used to get thrown away at work - different size clear bags with a ziplock on top. I label the bags with a Sharpie and all parts related to one bike go in one place/cabinet/pile/etc. And I take lots of pictures. Once you've taken enough Hondas apart, though, it almost becomes intuitive as to what goes where.

I paid less attention on this bike because I'm not concerned with putting it back together the same as before... :blush:
#41 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]Peto, on Nov 12 2008, 12:57 AM, said:

I converted a one-eyed 2007 tiger1050. It was two different pods with two different bulbs (H7 low & H9 high). The low beam side had a metal cut-off shield inside. Had to separate the lens and remove the metal shield. Drill out the pods to accept H4 bulbs (have built in shields). The high beam pod was a mirror finish/ while the low beam was more of a frosty finish. I polished the low beam pod to match the high beam pod. Had to get a bit creative with clips to hold the bulbs in place but no big deal. Re-sealed the headlight.

As an added bonus, one-eyed bikes are pre wires for adding high beams to low beams, as opposed to switching between them, so I went a step further and spit each wire (hi/lo) to each bulb. Now, both bulbs come on on low, and both filaments in both bulbs come on on high.

It took a bit of adjusting to get the aim right (both were off filaments were in different places). The end result was a damn fine pair of lights with a good beam patern.

Depends on how much time you want to spend.


Good info, I hope the 636 is simple too. If it's like my F4i though, then the two reflective area in the light are molded at different angles, no use of a cut off shield or diffuser. Which means my high beam would be permanently aimed low on the low beam side, or the low beam would always be high on the high beam side.

Can't decide what's better/worse. I could do something out of the box I suppose like shimming the bulb(s), but it would never be quite right and I'd like to keep this simple...
#42 timmythecop

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 12 2008, 06:32 AM, said:

Good info, I hope the 636 is simple too. If it's like my F4i(or the 5th gen for that matter) though, then the two reflective area in the light are molded at different angles, no use of a cut off shield or diffuser. Which means my high beam would be permanently aimed low on the low beam side, or the low beam would always be high on the high beam side.

Can't decide what's better/worse. I could do something out of the box I suppose like shimming the bulb(s), but it would never be quite right and I'd like to keep this simple...

my 5th gen has a dual filiment bulb on both sides, not high on one and low on the other.
#43 timmythecop

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 11 2008, 08:48 AM, said:

Uh - I don't remember? Lemme know if you find the post!

I was also thinking of chopping the speedo off of a certain set of F2 gauges...


here go

[image: Posted Image]

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...c=46879&hl=
#44 keny
Seb.
I got a not at mail today as I came home that the package whit the 3rd gen parts for the speedo picup project has arrived to my local mail office. I will go and get them tomorrow and see if I can do a fast fitting test tomorrow evening, so I let you know friday morning, well if you are awake werry late you know thursday night as my time is 5,32 pm now....
#45 Peto

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 12 2008, 06:32 AM, said:

Good info, I hope the 636 is simple too. If it's like my F4i though, then the two reflective area in the light are molded at different angles, no use of a cut off shield or diffuser. Which means my high beam would be permanently aimed low on the low beam side, or the low beam would always be high on the high beam side.

Can't decide what's better/worse. I could do something out of the box I suppose like shimming the bulb(s), but it would never be quite right and I'd like to keep this simple...

You might be able to correct the different angles by adjusting each side to the extreme opposites. Hi beam all the way low. Low beam all the way high. You might have to then shim the bottom headlight mount itself a bit to raise the cut-off line. The h4s are nice with those built in spoon sheilds. They give a distinct cut-off line pattern for you to match each side on your garage wall or whatever. If you can get both low beams correct, when the high filaments ignite, I bet it will be pretty good.

I know you want to keep this simple and probably inexpensive, but there is one other possibility. Check out the pods (reflective bowls around the bulbs) they may be at different angles inside, but the same on the outside and mount identically. In this case maybe you can score a busted headlight and pull out the low beam pod and install it on the right side of your headlight. Now you have the same angle - go from there...
#46 keny

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 12 2008, 03:08 AM, said:

My original idea was to cut the headlight in half, and fill the other side of the fairing in. The 636 headlight is one of those one-eye type lights where one side is high beam, the other is low.

Can I get away with using a dual-beam bulb in either the high beam side, or the low beam side? Will I still have a decent light pattern on low beam out of the high side, and vice versa?
Some whit one eye lights, like the Yamaha FZ6 Fazer ower here has a H7 bulb as low beam, but a H4 bulb as high beam only in the other side, even a H4 is a dual-beam bulb. I dont know what the 636 have, but ofcorse the bulbs can wary from seals area becors of regulations...
#47 SEBSPEED Thread starter
I'm not sure what bulbs the 636 takes either, but I will find out soon.

The deal is again, that I want to use only ONE HALF of the headlight in the bike. If I do low & high beam out of the high beam lens, it will probably work out best for me, but for traffic/other vehicles?? Do I care about that??
#48 keny
Just came from local post office, nice parts and looking promising. I will make time to testfit them later tonight. I let you know SEB.
#49 keny
Ok Seb, and all rest of you that are curius :biggrin: Here are the parts I got
[image: Posted Image]
And the test is done.
stock:
[image: Posted Image]
3:rd gen:
[image: Posted Image]
Seems to fit like a glove, all scruve holes are located the same, vola... but not.
Becorse there is a bug to work out.
This:
[image: Posted Image]
They are diffrent thickness, 10mm to be excakt. Ok, it tought I can get it to a shop and they take 10mm from it.
But even so the speedo sensor is still some 4 mm to far out. Hmm Have to think what to do. Not too big problem I thinh, mayby a nother Honda model has a longer adapter for the front sprocket bolt?
Ah one more thing, the speedo cable fits the 86-87VFR clock, but is on the short side, thro not testfitten.
#50 SEBSPEED Thread starter
It just couldn't be perfect, huh? :goofy:

Shouldn't be too hard to make it work though, good job! :fing02:
#51 keny

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 13 2008, 08:54 PM, said:

It just couldn't be perfect, huh? :goofy:

Shouldn't be too hard to make it work though, good job! :fing02:
Well it would have been to perfect if it would have been a 100% fit.
It seems the 4th gen cover have one bolt off from the fasterns. according to THIS topic on a nother forum. Quit intresting thro, and a nother way to do it.

Anyway I have the cover in a workshop now, I have to think what to do whit the rest 4mm
I proberly start a new own topic and tell abouth the convension when ready.
#52 Kel

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 13 2008, 01:54 PM, said:

It just couldn't be perfect, huh? :goofy:

Shouldn't be too hard to make it work though, good job! :fing02:

These run off the sprocket bolt? Won't your offset sprocket change the bolt location?

You know, a REAL street fighter doesn't need a speedo. I haven't had one in 21 years.
#53 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]Kel, on Nov 14 2008, 08:01 AM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 13 2008, 01:54 PM, said:

It just couldn't be perfect, huh? :goofy:

Shouldn't be too hard to make it work though, good job! :fing02:

These run off the sprocket bolt? Won't your offset sprocket change the bolt location?

You know, a REAL street fighter doesn't need a speedo. I haven't had one in 21 years.


That depends on whether it uses a longer bolt or not. Could be recessed...
#54 VF1000RS
I am thinking you can sink the section of the cover with the speedo sensor similar to the thread you posted and weld it in. I have a part number for a longer speedo cable from Motion Pro which I used on my VF1000F countershaft speedo pickup. Plenty of length and ends appear identical. Had to have mydealer order direct from Motion Pro. Should be part number 02-0126. If not let me know and I`ll dig out one of the cables, took that number from reciept.

I`m also curious about the depth of the clutch slave cylinder mount between the two covers and if that is an issue when adapting one to the other.
#55 keny

[image: View Post]VF1000RS, on Nov 15 2008, 02:49 AM, said:

I am thinking you can sink the section of the cover with the speedo sensor similar to the thread you posted and weld it in. I have a part number for a longer speedo cable from Motion Pro which I used on my VF1000F countershaft speedo pickup. Plenty of length and ends appear identical. Had to have mydealer order direct from Motion Pro. Should be part number 02-0126. If not let me know and I`ll dig out one of the cables, took that number from reciept.

I`m also curious about the depth of the clutch slave cylinder mount between the two covers and if that is an issue when adapting one to the other.
I�m courius to what bike thet longer cabel is for. The number tells me nothigh, as no one sells Motion Pro cabels where I live!

For the clutch slave cylinder, the 3rd gen cover brings it 10mm (~3/8) outwards, compared to stock. I have the 3rd gen cover at a machinist now, and he will mill it down 10mm so it will be same as stock. A nother would have been to legth the clutch rod 10mm, and get 10mm longer bolts for it...
#56 SEBSPEED Thread starter
Sounds good Keny, keep us posted on your progress.


More parts arrived today! 636 headlight, 636 upper fairing(a bright poisonous green one!), and the 1098 tail!

Unfortunately, the guys in Hong Kong that made the fairing wrapped the tail really well in foam, but forgot to put it in a box(?!?) and just shipped it wrapped in foam(?!?). It showed up with a few small cracks. I wouldn't have cared about them if they weren't around the taillight area, the most delicate part of the tail. Their communication has been really good all along though, so I've sent them an email and hopefully they will send me another one(in a box this time!).

The upper is not quite as bulbous as it was made out to be, but it isn't as tall as a VFR part either(in a side view especially). That will make it interesting when I go to position it on the bike.

I will post some pictures of the parts and hopefully a quick mockup this weekend when I turn the heat on in the garage.
#57 VF1000RS

[image: View Post]keny, on Nov 18 2008, 07:32 AM, said:

[image: View Post]VF1000RS, on Nov 15 2008, 02:49 AM, said:

I am thinking you can sink the section of the cover with the speedo sensor similar to the thread you posted and weld it in. I have a part number for a longer speedo cable from Motion Pro which I used on my VF1000F countershaft speedo pickup. Plenty of length and ends appear identical. Had to have mydealer order direct from Motion Pro. Should be part number 02-0126. If not let me know and I`ll dig out one of the cables, took that number from reciept.

I`m also curious about the depth of the clutch slave cylinder mount between the two covers and if that is an issue when adapting one to the other.
I�m courius to what bike thet longer cabel is for. The number tells me nothigh, as no one sells Motion Pro cabels where I live!

For the clutch slave cylinder, the 3rd gen cover brings it 10mm (~3/8) outwards, compared to stock. I have the 3rd gen cover at a machinist now, and he will mill it down 10mm so it will be same as stock. A nother would have been to legth the clutch rod 10mm, and get 10mm longer bolts for it...


Try contacting them online.
The part number is probably custom, but I originally used a cable for a CB1000(Big One) as a model when I specified what I wanted but had them make it approximately 8" longer than stock. It has the same end as your speedo cable which also has the same end as the RC30 pickup for the speedo, and also for the Honda Gyro...

Sounds like you have the cover sorted.
#58 liviu
hy..... i'm new here and first of all i want to tell you i'm from romania and my english is not so great.ok.... in this winter i want to start modify my vfr 750 rc 24. i've read some things on the internet about changing the rear wheel but i want to ask you what exactly will i need for the process. i want to put a 600 F3 rear wheel. i will buy it next week. please help me with a list of the others components that i have to buy. thank yo for the moment. see you
#59 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]liviu, on Nov 23 2008, 02:29 PM, said:

hy..... i'm new here and first of all i want to tell you i'm from romania and my english is not so great.ok.... in this winter i want to start modify my vfr 750 rc 24. i've read some things on the internet about changing the rear wheel but i want to ask you what exactly will i need for the process. i want to put a 600 F3 rear wheel. i will buy it next week. please help me with a list of the others components that i have to buy. thank yo for the moment. see you


liviu, welcome to the site. You can find all you need to know about the F3 conversion here: http://www.one-ring....aq/WheelFAQ.htm

And here: http://www.hondavfr.org/faqs.html
#60 SEBSPEED Thread starter
Just heard back from the seller of the tail, he is going to send me a replacement (in a box this time!) at no extra cost to me. It will take an additional 15-17 days to replace it, but, considering the cost of the original order and the fact that I'm not in dire need of it, I'd say it's still a good deal.

Here's some pics of the new body mocked up. I'm back to thinking it might look better as a fighter/standard bike style. The 636 upper will work with the lines of the rest of the bike, but, it's going to be difficult to get a clip on handlebar configuration that works well. The 636 upper needs to be dropped down to look right, but it will only look right if the bars come down also.

[image: Posted Image]

The F3 front end that's going on will be essentially the same handlebar position. I could get a set of racing clip ons, but they still might not look right on top of the upper tree, and I don't think they will clear the tank & frame if mounted below the tree.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

See what I mean about losing the front fairing?

[image: Posted Image]

I do plan to chop up the VFR tank. The Duc tank is smaller, especially at the rear where it joins the seat. It's going to take some time and metalwork, but I can handle it! I would need to cut the rear bottom off the tank, cut horizontally at the top of the "knee dent", and vertically down the middle at the seat joint, and pull the sides in to narrow it. Then fill the gaps with sheetmetal, a little body filler to blend the contours back in, and it should be golden! The petcock will need to be filled in also, and an external one used instead. Capacity loss looks to be no more than a quart, not a big deal at all. The bigger deal to me, is losing the float level from the rear of the tank which means no more gas gauge. Oh well!

Please excuse the horrible mess in the garage, it comes with all the projects going on at once!
#61 keny

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 23 2008, 10:40 PM, said:

Just heard back from the seller of the tail, he is going to send me a replacement (in a box this time!) at no extra cost to me. It will take an additional 15-17 days to replace it, but, considering the cost of the original order and the fact that I'm not in dire need of it, I'd say it's still a good deal.
Thats great! I wounder how many they have had to replase if all been sent like the first one


Quote

Here's some pics of the new body mocked up. I'm back to thinking it might look better as a fighter/standard bike style. The 636 upper will work with the lines of the rest of the bike, but, it's going to be difficult to get a clip on handlebar configuration that works well. The 636 upper needs to be dropped down to look right, but it will only look right if the bars come down also.

The F3 front end that's going on will be essentially the same handlebar position. I could get a set of racing clip ons, but they still might not look right on top of the upper tree, and I don't think they will clear the tank & frame if mounted below the tree.
Put the F3 fork on before you finally deside, it will lower the front a bit, and it might look better. Also you could cut the 636 upper so you get space for the handelbar, and a exotic look. Just my 2 cents thro....


Quote

Please excuse the horrible mess in the garage, it comes with all the projects going on at once!
No problem, looks werry much like mine ;)
#62 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]keny, on Nov 24 2008, 03:13 AM, said:

Put the F3 fork on before you finally deside, it will lower the front a bit, and it might look better. Also you could cut the 636 upper so you get space for the handelbar, and a exotic look. Just my 2 cents thro....

I wish I could use my 600RR usd front end. That would look & work GREAT if it wasn't so darn short. :dry:
#63 liviu
this project is great . i think i will start myself to modify my vfr tail. i saw somewhere a vfr with 600 rr tail. it looked very nice with that. please tell me would you gonna use the original 1094 back frame, or a custom made one? i'm interested because i don't know how to start :) .
#64 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]liviu, on Nov 24 2008, 11:32 AM, said:

this project is great . i think i will start myself to modify my vfr tail. i saw somewhere a vfr with 600 rr tail. it looked very nice with that. please tell me would you gonna use the original 1094 back frame, or a custom made one? i'm interested because i don't know how to start :) .

I am going to make my own from aluminum tubing. I thought about using a 1098 standard part, but could not find a used one, let alone a cheap used one.

Good luck and post some pictures!
#65 fatso127
yeah that upper does look really low... but like keny said it will look different with the F3 forks. so dont give up on that idea..cause that actually does look good with that upper. are you going to modify the 636 stay to fit the vfr. i did see a guy on cbrforum where he modified his upper from F3 and merged with R6, maybe you can try your hand at glassing something up. cause you are doing a lot of custom work just to get thrown in the streetfighter category. IMHO...
#66 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]fatso127, on Nov 24 2008, 12:22 PM, said:

yeah that upper does look really low... but like keny said it will look different with the F3 forks. so dont give up on that idea..cause that actually does look good with that upper. are you going to modify the 636 stay to fit the vfr. i did see a guy on cbrforum where he modified his upper from F3 and merged with R6, maybe you can try your hand at glassing something up. cause you are doing a lot of custom work just to get thrown in the streetfighter category. IMHO...

I've seen some really well built bada$$ streetfighters over the years, there are quite a few I'd be honored to have a bike of mine compared to, but there are a lot of crappy ones too.

I bought a 636 fairing bracket and ram air duct/bracket mount to use for measurements. I plan to make something out of aluminum sheet and round stock to replace those two Kawi parts and mate to the VFR, then resell the Kawi parts.

To get an idea of what I'm planning, search for Racing 905's "stunt stay" for the 636.
#67 Kel

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 24 2008, 07:09 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Kel, on Nov 14 2008, 08:01 AM, said:

You know, a REAL street fighter doesn't need a speedo. I haven't had one in 21 years.

I need one, I would be riding way too fast everywhere without regulation! :squid: :squid: :blush:


Something tells me you didn't look at your speedo much during your Catskills ride. :dry:
#70 motorhead1977

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Nov 25 2008, 07:13 PM, said:

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on Nov 25 2008, 07:26 PM, said:

Or maybe this project comes to a standstill?

[image: Posted Image]

:goofy:

All that fuss over a $25 welding helmet... :blush:


Hey, I had a squirt gun looked like that when I was a kid. Always wondered where it got off to. :laugh:
#71 keny
Seb, and all intrested.
I didnt get the cover yet from mecanist. reason: he have not done it yet for 2 reasons. 1. the machine that he needs to do it whit been busy and he dont want to do over time as he has a few months old kid at home (fair)2. he wants me to get sure that I dont need the part that is the cluch pushrod seal holder on the cover as it will be gone in the progress. That goth me thinking is it that essensial? Or do I need to go the other way, and make a longer clutch pushrod?
To clear what I mean, hers a pic that show what will go away, the small ring that holds the seal
[image: Posted Image]
You think the seal will be in place whitout it?
#73 keny
I havent got the cover yet, but seen one on a nother forum has succeded to make a 3rd gen sidecover and odo drive work.
[image: Posted Image]
He tock 8mm of the cover and 5mm of the mounting surfase of the odo drive. Dont know how the cable works thro.
Hope this help as my seem to take some time....

Happy Hollydays! :3:
#74 motorhead1977
Since the old post ho is still without DSL - was gonna start a VERIZON DSL SUCKS in Sebspeed's world - but instead on my way home from being a ski instructor I stopped at Sebspeeds inner sanctum garage and came away with two "spy fotos" of the project with tank cut down. He He He arent cell phone cams great! Sebastian is now making vicarious posts!

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

It looks a lot like a Kawahonducati!

We discussed several options for subframe design and other ideas. Lets just say it's gonna be really :cool: The word is that the post ho will be back online on Monday - long story that!

Seb, I am working on your parts shopping list in the my garage later today.
#75 SEBSPEED Thread starter
So, as Tom said, progress has been made on the 86 project and it's looking like a bike again!

I was worried at first that the big 636 upper would look wrong proportionally with the tiny Duc tail, but I have been pleasantly surprised! Seeing all the parts in place really gives an impression of flow, I really like how it's coming together.

I'm going to skip the idea of adding any more fairing to the upper. Originally I wanted to lengthen the fairing to bring it lower on the bike. The way it sits now I think it gives it a very modern cafe racer look with the big "scoopy" upper fairing and the tiny tail, and the flat top of the VFR tank just reinforces the design. :cool:

First thing I did was to add another set of hooks to my rafters so I could hang the bike by the frame. I put the first set in years ago over the other bike lift for the same purpose.

I couldn't find a suitable place to hook onto the bike frame, so I drilled two holes in a piece of scrap pipe that happened to be the right length, and stuck that through the frame to hook into. Then I hung the bike, removed the stock front end, and inserted my 2005 600RR front end.

[image: Posted Image]

Of course, it's way too short... the wheel and fender will surely hit the cylinder head and fender. the front is just hanging right now, so static - and more importantly, dynamic sag have not been taken into account here, leaving only a few inches clearance!

[image: Posted Image]

I have seen 954RR forks used, but they rub under hard braking I'm told, and these 600RR parts are even shorter!

It's really a shame, because the steering stops would have worked out perfect!
#76 SEBSPEED Thread starter
Next up were the F3 forks. These also slid right in, same steering bearing sizes for most Hondas since the mid eighties. The stem will need to be swapped and the steering stops need to be modified to work properly. The length is much mo betta. I need to replace the tubes as they are rusty, pitted, and tweaked. Getting the tubes nitride coated would be nice, to get that gold look... hmmm...

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

With the tail sorta in place and a set of clip ons dropped on it, it looks ok, but not great.

[image: Posted Image]

The 600RR fender in the last pic is not going to stay, unfortunately it's too wide to be used in the F3 forks, and I would have to cut up too much of it to make it work. I will find another fender(F3 ?) and customize it instead.
#77 SEBSPEED Thread starter
Speaking of the tail, it does not mate the tank perfectly, as it's obviously from a smaller Ducati.

[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

The VFR tank is just too wide to accommodate the Duc side panels properly, and so I had to introduce it to "my other little friend", the grinder.
[image: Posted Image]

The tank was pretty beat up anyway so what's a couple more cuts?

[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

Hey Timmy, there was a little rust in the tank. Should buff right out... :rolleyes: :goofy:

[image: Posted Image]

I'm glad I cut the tank, it gave me the perfect opportunity to bang some of the dents out. Anyone else see the skull in the picture?


[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

The petcock's internal lines are going to interfere with my plans, so the whole thing had to go. A small circle cut from steel will be welded in to fill the hole.

[image: Posted Image]
#78 SEBSPEED Thread starter
I also figured out a way to attach the upper fairing to the steering head. I couldn't use the stock VFR support, because it was bent six ways to Sunday.

I used basically all the stock 636 stuff, including the fairing, headlight, headlight support, and ram air intake which on the 636 ties into all the above and the frame. I stuck a properly-sized drill bit into the lower 636 ram air frame mount hole, through the UPPER VFR stay mount hole on the frame, and out the other side of the ram air tube, and propped it up to what I thought looked right.

I will need to use modern low profile master cylinders for the clutch and brake, but I will have clearance using clip ons.

Here are the fairing and chopped tank mounted and propped up in place.

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

Plus the tail:
[image: Posted Image]

The tail fits two ways currently; all the way forward, which would allow me to use the forward mounting hole of the Ducati side panels with the boss that's already on the VFR, or, I can line up the seat/tank joint and will have to extend the side panels forward to take up the empty space.

Option 1:
[image: Posted Image]

Option 2:
[image: Posted Image]

I'm going with option 2, for a few reasons:

1 - It's easier to extend the panels than to cut & section the tank to make it line up at the seat junction.
2 - There is little to no space in the Ducati tail to house anything that used to be under the seat of the VFR. Moving the seat back buys me more room under the seat to make ways to store running gear.
3 - The seat and cut tank match up so well, it would be wrong to mess with this level of success!
#80 SEBSPEED Thread starter
The next round of thoughts I went through was, "Where the heck am I going to put all this other crap?" - meaning the running gear - battery, wiring, 4 ignition coils(I may be forced to get a set of Accel Super coils, they use 2 coils for 4cyl apps), CDI box, reg/rectifier, etc.

I decided that the slickest way to house that stuff while keeping that lovely area under the seat open, is to stuff it in the gas tank. You heard me!

The tank is already cut, so I'm going to de-rustify it, then weld in a wall to box off the front of the tank. I'll lose a couple gallons of capacity, but so what? 3.5 gallons is plenty. Should still give at least a 120mi range.

Once the wall is welded in, I will seal it with some aircraft grade stuff from work, and I'll need to coat the open area with something to prevent any shorts. It will need to be some kind of rubber coating, like liquid electrical tape thinned out and sprayed in maybe? Ideas on that?

I plan to stuff some wiring in first, then the coils, then a new sealed battery on its side or upside down.

I can run the R/R up front to where the left headlight used to be, and also gather a fuse block and some other wiring there.

Speaking of the headlight... for those of you following along since the beginning, I want to use only one of the 636 headlights, the left side, but as you can see, it's a one piece light...

[image: Posted Image]

After a little action with a hack saw and my trusty Dremel:

[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

I also used the Dremel to cut the right lens off, to be used as the filler piece for the hole in the fairing.

[image: Posted Image]

And the filler in the fairing:
[image: Posted Image]
#81 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Jan 5 2009, 01:30 PM, said:

As you aren't building a Touring bike, 120 miles is more than enough. I wonder about putting the battery that high...messes with the COG a bit too much IMO. I like the other electrical in there however. What do you really need the undertail space for?

Wish I could have fun building something like that, but I know better than to start.

You might measure the tank before you weld off a section....you are losing more than 2 gallons is my guess....probably down to 2 gallons remaining (usable, don't forget the Fuel Pump etc.)

Fuel pump is external on these bikes, the only thing that will be inside the liquid portion of the tank is the tubing for the filler vent. Also another reason why space is a concern... the fuel pump needs to go somewhere, and next to nothing will fit in the tail section.

There will be no space left whatsoever under the rider seat once the subframe is built, and you might squeeze a can of soda along w/ a pair of sunglasses under the solo cover. Maybe an empty wallet too.

The CDI box is going to be tough, it's a rectangle about 3/4" thick, & 4x6" roughly. It might fit between the underside of the (non) passenger area and the undertail trim.

I'm not worried about moving the battery to the location I mentioned, it will weigh just a little more than the gasoline that would other wise be there with a full tank(gas weighs ~5lb/gallon), and, the Duc 1098 stuff along with the aluminum subframe will weigh just a fraction of the old stuff. The weight will also be moved into a more central location.
#82 SEBSPEED Thread starter
Not sure about using a car pack on the bike... sounds weird but might work??


Here's some "prototype sketches" from the earlier stages when I thought I might make my own fairings... heh, that idea didn't last long. I hate sanding fiberglass!!

[image: Posted Image]

This one is a photocopy to show the hard lines.

[image: Posted Image]
#83 SEBSPEED Thread starter
And here's the tank stuffing idea.

The top one is a little deceiving, it's just a quick 2 second sketch. It's supposed to be looking up from the left rear of the tank.

[image: Posted Image]
#84 keny
Seb, just some 2 cent of me..

Tail section joint
[image: Posted Image]
If you gonna lenght it, why not make it so the under part go all way down whit the frame of the VFR?
It would give you some more "hidden" area. For the battery, I would place it just over the rear shock, travers whit a heat sheald in front. I dont think it matters if you see the battery, you see it on some new bikes also.
The coins, rear ones might fit in front of battery, rear of cylinders. front ones just inside the frame?
#85 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]keny, on Jan 14 2009, 08:06 AM, said:

Seb, just some 2 cent of me..

Tail section joint

If you gonna lenght it, why not make it so the under part go all way down whit the frame of the VFR?
It would give you some more "hidden" area.
That is the plan. Line the sides up with the rear of the tank, then bring the edge whose angle does not currently match the frame, and add on to it so that it does. I might have to reshape the cutout so that it looks right.

For the battery, I would place it just over the rear shock, travers whit a heat sheald in front. I dont think it matters if you see the battery, you see it on some new bikes also.
The battery might not fit the way you described, depending on the design of the subframe. I prefer that the battery stays hidden, and I am fine with loosing some mileage to put it under the tank instead.

The coils, rear ones might fit in front of battery, rear of cylinders. front ones just inside the frame?
I need to fool around with the coils some more, to see where I might fit them. First, I need to find some time to get back in the garage, then to mock up a subframe for a better visual of what I have to work with.

Thanks Keny!
#86 Veefer800Canuck

[image: View Post]tippman, on Jan 14 2009, 05:28 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Jan 14 2009, 06:58 PM, said:

[image: View Post]tippman, on Jan 14 2009, 07:16 PM, said:

Seb,
On the drawing of the battery on its side make sure you use a sealed agm battery-the liquid acid type will leak for sure laying on its side-the sealed gel type are suitable for mounting in any position. There is my 2 pennies for this awesome project.

For sure! Anything less would be unacceptable. I'll be using a Yuasa YTZ10S, unless I can get my hands on some lithium ferrite cells.

I have a flux capacitor available for the measly sum of 1.21 million dollars! :laugh:



I think that 1.21 Jigga-watts would probably fry the R/R. :laugh:

[image: Posted Image]
#88 SEBSPEED Thread starter

[image: View Post]keny, on Jan 19 2009, 04:00 PM, said:

Seb. I dont know how costy its to ship from europe to the states, but are you intrested in a milled down rc36 chain cover ?+ speedo drive and cabel. I will not forfill my mod even its actually only apart from shimming the front sprocket out some mm, actually my bike is up for sale....but thats a nother story


Keny, you have a PM.
#89 Baileyrock
purged some bs for easier viewing.
#90 SEBSPEED Thread starter
Thanks Kevin.

Not much going on here lately, been collecting some parts and will likely have a surge of progress to report soon.

On the short list is a rebuild of the forks, will be a complete rebuild with all new bushings and seals, also got a set of Sonic springs to put in along with a fresher set of upper tubes. The ones in the set I have are slightly tweaked and have some rust pitting that is easier to replace than to spend time on... also thinking about getting nice gold TIN coating on them if the price is right...

Cutting up some pine also to mock up the subframe, after that will be cutting and welding the aluminum!

I have 86 round gauges on the way, will convert them to LED as soon as I find out what size the bulbs are.

Got some trick stuff on the way soon from Keny that should move this thing along nicely.

Almost done with the carbs, they need new float bowl o-rings and a few more socket head screws, will probably spend some time shining them up with a Dremel and some wire wheels too.

I'm undecided now on what to do with the motor - paint it all black or try to replicate the stock look with the tan covers or maybe do silver/gold instead of tan? Not sure yet.

Still need a good F3 front wheel.

Need to order sprockets so I can get better measurements on spacers for the rear wheel. Once that's done, the swingarm comes off for bracing.

Also need to order new head bearings. And tires! Might try some real sticky stuff on this ride! :fing02:



Oh, and don't let Bailey's modding sway any comments, I need the motivation! :biggrin:
#91 keny

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 23 February 2010 - 09:25 AM, said:

I hate to say it, but I've been thinking about parting this bike out lately.

Speak up if you want to take the project over, or want parts.

Or, convince me otherwise!


I hate to hear it!

Come on.... to mutch work done to end now...or :unsure:
#92 redmarque
Now now , let's try not to get all sentimental about this.... :wub: :blush:

Let me see; How many projects you got going? Feel like you're stretchin' yourself a bit thin? :wacko:

Then yep it's gotta go.

Think of all the little things you learn'd while doing it.. not all projects 'need' to be finished. :fing02:
#93 SEBSPEED Thread starter
After briefly considering keeping it, I'm sorry to say, but it has to go.

Shock, left footpeg and air filter have been sold(air filter pending). Please see my ads in the for sale section and PM me with interests.

Please don't post here with inquiries, it's my hope that the mods and HS will let this thread hang around for future reference on what I was able to accomplish...

Thanks
#94 InterFester

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 26 October 2008 - 09:15 PM, said:

I haven't finished my 750F project, but have a new member in the family now that I just had to get!

I drove down to Maryland on Friday and traded my 85 700F and an 83 750F rolling chassis to Timmy for his 22,000 mile 86 VFR700 and a set of F2 forks with trees. I have a LOT of great(and some not so great) memories of my 700, but its future was not too bright at my place now that I'm restoring the 750, so... time to move on.


Exhaust:
Already has what looks like a full Yoshimura system, I'm just going to stretch it up under the tail and weld up an exhaust out of sheetmetal. I kinda like the exhausts that Competition Werkes makes for some new bikes, they look and sound different.
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:cool:


Has anybody ever had one of these Competition Werkes mufflers? Any idea what they look like inside, how they are baffled and constructed?
End of thread · 94 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 4 Jun 2011