How To : Fitting A Hid Kit

hi Guys

Finally got the HID fitted on the bike. It took me about 3 to 4 hours to get it all fitter (finding the correct place, wiring routing, to see if it really works) but eventually got it going. I used a Philips car H4 bulb HID kit. It will come with 2 Ballast,2 Bulbs, 1 Relay wiring harness, Wire tags etc.

1) Remove the UPPER and LOWER COWL along with the meter panel
2) Disconnect the HEADLIGHTS, SIGNAL LIGHTS etc.
3) I fitter the BALLAST under the upper first with double side tape as its easy to take out incase the placement is wrong. Lucky i did that as i had stuck it too close to the SIDE COWL. (if i had screwed them in ...that would have been quite a mess)
Front view
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Lower view
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Side view
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4) Repeat the same on the Right side
Side view
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5) Now fit the bulbs, I first tried fitting the bulbs first and then to the HEADLIGHT UNIT. Trust me thats very tough as its very difficult to put the lamp locks afterwards
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So i took the bulb out of the HID socket and fitted the holder first. Lock the holder using the RETAINER.
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Now fit the DUST COVER and then insert the bulb(s), this was much easier.
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6) Mount the wiring harness
Since its all plastic i fitted the the relay and the wiring harness on the inside of the INNER PANEL. use the wire tags to hold all this together.
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7) Connect the Wires (no images)
- Connect the Positive wire (red) to the battery
- Connect the Negative / ground (Black) to the chassis) - i used the horn bracket.
- Connect the wiring harness to the BALLAST.
- Connect the Bulbs to the BALLAST along with the Hi/lo socket.
- The harness also comes with a bulb SOCKET (female type) which is connect to the existing /origninal bulb SOCKET. This triggers the power, high and low

8) BALLAST location finalize
- once the location of the BALLAST has been finalized, drill holes on the UPPER COWL. Bolt the BALLASTS into place. I used match bolts like the one on the upper cowl.
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8) Switch on to see if all is ok. (ususally is )
Lights getting warmed up
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9) Fit all the cowls (had a tough time getting the UPPER and SIDE COWL, the rubber screws kept falling inside. (but finally eventually got there)

10) Adjust the beams

Lights fully warmed up
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Front profile
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Also changed the Parking lights to LED
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11) Total Cost : $180

You are done.

I wanted to give this topic a bump since it took me a bit of searching to find it. Good writeup on the install...question for Anik however...did you have to trim the tabs on the bulb for it to fit?

Oh, so that's what that Euro parking light thing is... :fing02:
We ain't got no stinking parking light! :pissed:

[image: View Post]KPerham, on 31 December 2010 - 05:18 PM, said:

Oh, so that's what that Euro parking light thing is... :fing02:
We ain't got no stinking parking light! :pissed:



Yea what he said.. Then again.. I can't shut my headlights off. But it still would be cool.

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on 31 December 2010 - 05:12 PM, said:

I wanted to give this topic a bump since it took me a bit of searching to find it. Good writeup on the install...question for Anik however...did you have to trim the tabs on the bulb for it to fit?


My orignial head light assembly fit well - the tabs aligned as the bike is EU model. I had ordered a new head light assembly from the US - where the tabs didnt align. I did it the hard way...used a dermel to shave of a little of the housing so the tabs could align, eventually i got tired and just bent the tabs ...so one side i have the housing altered and the other side the the holder tab is bent. Have not noticed any difference in the way the beam focuses.

What I did differently was instead of using screws to mount the ballasts I just used the stronger two sided tape and mounted the ballasts to the inner upper fairing. That is a clean write up with great pics!

[image: View Post]DarkKnight, on 01 January 2011 - 01:14 PM, said:

What I did differently was instead of using screws to mount the ballasts I just used the stronger two sided tape and mounted the ballasts to the inner upper fairing. That is a clean write up with great pics!


thanks...

I have used double sided tape also but it gets hot here plus the engine heat makes the glue soft. these pictures are old. I have replaced the X head screws with allen type (used on the fairing )so now it looks like part of the bike :)

I have seen smaller ballasts so if these go bad i would go for them untill then i am enjoying what i have.

Do I understand correctly that as the HIds are not "dual filament" bulbs. I assume you just have high beams?

Beck
95 VFR

Very nice. what is the color temperature on those bulbs?
5000K, 6000k, or what?

Dang. You've posted in almost every light thread.


If you want white stay with 4k-5k. Any higher and blue will start to show.

:biggrin: desperately looking for an answer.
I ordered the 6k for a little bit of blue. :goofy:

Do I understand correctly that as the HIds are not "dual filament" bulbs. I assume you just have high beams?

Beck
95 VFR

You can get single and dual beam HID bulbs. Some are only single because the auto/bike uses multiple bulbs like the H7 bulb. They only come in one filament that's why bikes have two sets. 5th gens use H4 bulbs that are dual filaments.

Do I understand correctly that as the HIds are not "dual filament" bulbs. I assume you just have high beams?

Beck
95 VFR

You can get single and dual beam HID bulbs. Some are only single because the auto/bike uses multiple bulbs like the H7 bulb. They only come in one filament that's why bikes have two sets. 5th gens use H4 bulbs that are dual filaments.

Thank you for clarifying, I didn't know they made a dual beam type HID system. Knowing this might make me consider putting one on my bike one day as a winter mod.

Beck
95 VFR