ok wot do i need:-
forks - not sure wether to get stock forks, heard mention of CBR6 forks or even follow Seb and look for 1000r forks
carbs - I mean have you really looked at the above pic??
rear shock - probs go for the CBR shock, but need a pic of Seb of the mounting bracket he made - pleeeaaazzzeeeee
tank, seat, chain & sprockets side fairing and loads od nuts, bolts and rubber grommits probably want replacing oh and an exhaust sytem lol
But i am in no rush, have a VERY low budget :( , and allready have a bike on the road (ish) :P
So there is a good chance Seb will have his finished before this one lol
Nearly forgot, a camchain tensioner for the front head lol
Oh and first question for Seb, looking at the oil mod, is it replacing what i allready have on my engine or do the usa engines not have em, please look at pics of my engine above.
That really doesn't look too bad from here! (except for the carbies!) Don't chuck them just yet, put them in a box on a shelf, you never know when you'll need a screw or a float bowl...
Good luck with it!! Try to work on it a little bit every day, even if it's just wiping off a part, it'll keep you interested and moving forward.
Hey Dougie750, the winter months are great for getting it looking like you want it. I really like that colour scheme and the fairing seems to be in good condition.
Lots of great info here and best of luck with the project!
Rattlecans seldom give the results you're hoping for. Fine for a stuntbike, or a trackbike, but if I were you, and you really want to end up with a fine product, I'd go for powdercoating.
Several members here have built their own powdercoating ovens out of an old stove, and had good results.
home oven is not really an option for me, just dont have the space in my shed for one, will price up a frame powder coat in the near future :)
Plus thanks to Kels answers to the questions i asked him, i may now look at a single sided swingarm to go on this project, so til i have either sourced one or made up my mind the paint job can go on hold :P
Good thing about this is that i allready have a bike on the road so there is not time presures for me to get it done quickly :)
now i need to try and clear some space in the garage and knock up a workbench to stand the engine and frame on
[image: View Post]timmythecop, on Oct 6 2009, 08:29 PM, said:
I love :wub: those euro-only wheels.
if you really love em, i have 2 sets, sure i could be persauded to part with a set, you have to pay shipping tho :)
ok not really much done today, still struggling to get the other bike to stop trying to idle at 5000 rpm, had the carbs off, checked all linkages, put em all back together still no diffrence, one thing i did notice tho was wen the fuel was turned off at the tank it idled at 1500 rpm, maybe i have a fuel pump problem, pumping to much fuel in, gonna look at trying to run it tomorrow with the pump taken out the equasion, TBH i am starting to run outa ideas, and the petrol and matches keep inching closer :mad:
oh and to top it all the fuel feed pipe split at the tank, so thats now an inch shorter :cool:
[image: View Post]dougie750, on Oct 6 2009, 01:54 PM, said:
forks - not sure wether to get stock forks, heard mention of CBR6 forks or even follow Seb and look for 1000r forks
You might want to do some checking on that one. I think you'll find that the CBR1000RR forks a too short to fit on the big ol' VF's without a lot of work (read: it's expensive).
It sounds like you have a great project started there! Keep us up to date on your progress.
1) The VF's never right with the airbox off. You'll always get weird stuff running it like you were.
2) You need to have the coils bolted down. As you can see, they operate in 'free air' but they don't produce enough spark like that.
It's also pretty clear that you need a carb synch. That's what is causing the high revs. It sounds like it's running pretty smooth otherwise so it should not be too difficult to get it dialed in.
1) The VF's never right with the airbox off. You'll always get weird stuff running it like you were.
2) You need to have the coils bolted down. As you can see, they operate in 'free air' but they don't produce enough spark like that.
It's also pretty clear that you need a carb synch. That's what is causing the high revs. It sounds like it's running pretty smooth otherwise so it should not be too difficult to get it dialed in.
ok bolted everything back in place, now sitting at 2500rpm, got my eye on a carbtune on ebay thats ending soon, hopefully i can use it with the v4 carbs (never used one before so should be educational) :)
[image: View Post]dougie750, on Oct 7 2009, 10:42 AM, said:
home oven is not really an option for me
The home oven can easily be used for curing painted parts. I've found there are two tricks to it:
1. Go to Publix or Krogers and get a couple of those large disposal aluminum pans that you cook turkeys or roasts in. Place the parts in one. Use the other as a cover (you don't want last year's Thanksgiving dinner to get hot enough to drip onto your parts).
2. Make sure the wife won't be home before the task is 100% complete (this includes the oven returning to room temp).
#2 avoids the questions of:
Wife: Why is the oven warm? I know you haven't been cooking. (this was my first near getting caught).
Wife: Why is the oven on? (Opens oven door). Oh, I see we're having exhaust pipes for dinner tonight. How thoughtful! (imagine extreme sarcasm in her voice).
[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Oct 8 2009, 06:31 PM, said:
[image: View Post]dougie750, on Oct 7 2009, 10:42 AM, said:
home oven is not really an option for me
The home oven can easily be used for curing painted parts. I've found there are two tricks to it:
1. Go to Publix or Krogers and get a couple of those large disposal aluminum pans that you cook turkeys or roasts in. Place the parts in one. Use the other as a cover (you don't want last year's Thanksgiving dinner to get hot enough to drip onto your parts).
2. Make sure the wife won't be home before the task is 100% complete (this includes the oven returning to room temp).
#2 avoids the questions of:
Wife: Why is the oven warm? I know you haven't been cooking. (this was my first near getting caught).
Wife: Why is the oven on? (Opens oven door). Oh, I see we're having exhaust pipes for dinner tonight. How thoughtful! (imagine extreme sarcasm in her voice).
do you know, I can hear my wifes voice in my head as i was reading this lol
[image: View Post]dougie750, on Oct 8 2009, 02:24 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Oct 8 2009, 06:31 PM, said:
[image: View Post]dougie750, on Oct 7 2009, 10:42 AM, said:
home oven is not really an option for me
The home oven can easily be used for curing painted parts. I've found there are two tricks to it:
1. Go to Publix or Krogers and get a couple of those large disposal aluminum pans that you cook turkeys or roasts in. Place the parts in one. Use the other as a cover (you don't want last year's Thanksgiving dinner to get hot enough to drip onto your parts).
2. Make sure the wife won't be home before the task is 100% complete (this includes the oven returning to room temp).
#2 avoids the questions of:
Wife: Why is the oven warm? I know you haven't been cooking. (this was my first near getting caught).
Wife: Why is the oven on? (Opens oven door). Oh, I see we're having exhaust pipes for dinner tonight. How thoughtful! (imagine extreme sarcasm in her voice).
do you know, I can hear my wifes voice in my head as i was reading this lol
LOL particularly important in the winter b/c you'll want a window or two open. This happened to me while I was cooking Saab front strut housings. She took pics to prove to my family and the neighbors that I was crazy.
[image: View Post]veefer800canuck, on Oct 6 2009, 01:50 PM, said:
Rattlecans seldom give the results you're hoping for. Fine for a stuntbike, or a trackbike, but if I were you, and you really want to end up with a fine product, I'd go for powdercoating.
Several members here have built their own powdercoating ovens out of an old stove, and had good results.
I got decent results on my VF with a rattle can job. Make sure you clean the frame really well and then wipe down completely with mineral spirits, and don't handle it with bare hands after. I used three light coats of a gloss enamel and it's proven pretty durable so far. Powder would be better but I got insane quotes to have it done.
[image: View Post]vfrcapn, on Oct 8 2009, 08:09 PM, said:
[image: View Post]veefer800canuck, on Oct 6 2009, 01:50 PM, said:
Rattlecans seldom give the results you're hoping for. Fine for a stuntbike, or a trackbike, but if I were you, and you really want to end up with a fine product, I'd go for powdercoating.
Several members here have built their own powdercoating ovens out of an old stove, and had good results.
I got decent results on my VF with a rattle can job. Make sure you clean the frame really well and then wipe down completely with mineral spirits, and don't handle it with bare hands after. I used three light coats of a gloss enamel and it's proven pretty durable so far. Powder would be better but I got insane quotes to have it done.
Thanks, i had a play earlier today witha couple of rattle cans that i had lying around, a yellow one and a red one, the yellow i think was too pale and the red looked awsome, so i think i am gonna go with the red. Am really thinking about getting the frame at least sand blasted, gonna take forever to get in all those knooks and crannies with sand paper or maybe a dremmel lol
In other news i stripped a couple of small peices today and painted them, not a lot done but am moving forward :)
[image: View Post]dougie750, on Oct 8 2009, 12:55 PM, said:
[image: View Post]JamieDaugherty, on Oct 8 2009, 12:21 AM, said:
A couple of obvious problems:
1) The VF's never right with the airbox off. You'll always get weird stuff running it like you were.
2) You need to have the coils bolted down. As you can see, they operate in 'free air' but they don't produce enough spark like that.
It's also pretty clear that you need a carb synch. That's what is causing the high revs. It sounds like it's running pretty smooth otherwise so it should not be too difficult to get it dialed in.
ok bolted everything back in place, now sitting at 2500rpm, got my eye on a carbtune on ebay thats ending soon, hopefully i can use it with the v4 carbs (never used one before so should be educational) :)
With as smoothly as it's running I'd say a carb sync should be all you need. Let us know what you find!
OK so done some more work over the weekend, spent most of saturday sanding down my frame and swing arm, to then speak to a mate today, who works for the local collage and may be able to go in thier workshop to get shot blasted and possibly painted, have to speak to him on Mon night.
so wot else did i do on it i hear you all cry? ok maybe not but this is wot i have done:-
1) The VF's never right with the airbox off. You'll always get weird stuff running it like you were.
2) You need to have the coils bolted down. As you can see, they operate in 'free air' but they don't produce enough spark like that.
It's also pretty clear that you need a carb synch. That's what is causing the high revs. It sounds like it's running pretty smooth otherwise so it should not be too difficult to get it dialed in.
[image: Posted Image]
OK i got a 2 cylinder balancer off one of my friends, not sure if this is the right way but, i used carb 1 (first one on Right hand side, that has the idle screw attached) and balanced that with carb 2 (second one in), all ok, moved onto carb 3 (so 1 & 3), miles off, no matter how much i played with the mixture screw it made no diffrence, next carb 4 pretty much synced up as well, so looks like i have a problem with carb 3. now i don't know if this makes a diffrence but i had to replace the fuel input link pipe between carbs 3 & 4 (working from right hand side see below), i am wondering if my float is sticking? any thoughts?
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 6 2009, 07:00 PM, said:
That really doesn't look too bad from here! (except for the carbies!) Don't chuck them just yet, put them in a box on a shelf, you never know when you'll need a screw or a float bowl...
Good luck with it!! Try to work on it a little bit every day, even if it's just wiping off a part, it'll keep you interested and moving forward.
good job i never chucked these away, may need some spares :)
Well thanks to YoshiHNS & Seb, i figured out how to balance my carbs, was doing it completely wrong, was trying to do it using the pilot screws, but we live and learn :P
ok so having done it properly now, it sounds a lot better and the throttle is more responsive. proberly would have been a lot easier with a 4 cyclinder version (which I might still invest in for the project or just to dial in the stock bike better).
Also if anyone is thinking of doing this themselves to their carbs my top tip would be get some of the brass adapters and make up some covers and leave em on their, I had a severe problem getting to cylinder 3's vacum plug and cover'd myself in hot antifreeze as i tried to move the thermostat cover a smidgen out of the way and one of the pipes decided to pop off on me :( , then again might not have been an issue if I had a 4 carbs balancer instead of a 2 carb balancer as i had to keep chasing myself around the 4 carbs til i got somthing I was happy with.
The red light that is on, is the brakelight light, it comes on when i turn the lights on and goes off when i use a brake
Oh and the other thing I found was that the tool recommended for this would have been no good for me as it has an 8MM head and for some reason my screw heads are 7mm, raked thro the cheapy tools section in locals carparts shop and came up with this, saved myself �18 and postage :P
same again this weekend, but i did get some work done on the wiring loom, all i am gonna say at this point is its a good job, i had a spare one. Gonna have to use some spade connectors wer the old blocks have been cut off in some places, but hopefully out of the 2 looms i had i can make a decent one :)
On other new i received a cbr600 triple set and the stem was too short, now think that its off a 1990 cbr, so the search continues. On a lighter note there is an autojumble near york next sat, so hopefully pick up some bargains there :)
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 01 November 2009 - 05:24 PM, said:
I have an extra wiring harness; I've already pillaged some items from it, but the majority of it is there let me know if you need a piece or two.
Thanks Seb, may hold you to that :)
some bits turned up in the post for me today, cbr6 f2 rear wheel, was suposed to be with sprocket and disk (rotor) but disk looks completly useless lol, rear brake caliper and caliper mount, and my cam chain tensioner has arrived as well so i can start to put the othere engine back together soon.
May hold out on that at the momment, had a bit of luck and found a box with spare parts from my other set of carbs (forgot i had partially stripped them).
Ok stripped down the carbs tonight for a good clean, and before anyone shouts at me they came without the plenium thingy :)
As you can see the caps are pretty pitted, hence the black paint (i know i lied, its black gloss)You can also see the remains of my spare carb bits in the background lol
Well put them all together, wheeled out the stock bike and proceeded to swap the carbs over, all done and connected up. Bugger me they work, did not take much balancing either, but they do have a problem with idling :(
But that can wait for another day :)
Also got myself a new brake lever from the autojumble
What size is that master? It needs to have the same piston size as the one that's on your bike, or you'll have issues. You can find the size by(usually) looking for a number in a circle which would be cast on the front or underside of the master body.
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 09 November 2009 - 05:31 PM, said:
What size is that master? It needs to have the same piston size as the one that's on your bike, or you'll have issues. You can find the size by(usually) looking for a number in a circle which would be cast on the front or underside of the master body.
Carbs look good! :fing02:
bugger, never thought of that when I bought it, but to be fair it was cheap �15 and I am not sure what the cbr 6 brake set up is as I dont have brakes yet lol. But will keep that in mind when i get round to brakes :)
it was just soo shiney and it was calling out to me!! I am weak!! :)
[image: View Post]dougie750, on 10 November 2009 - 02:17 AM, said:
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 09 November 2009 - 05:31 PM, said:
What size is that master? It needs to have the same piston size as the one that's on your bike, or you'll have issues. You can find the size by(usually) looking for a number in a circle which would be cast on the front or underside of the master body.
Carbs look good! :fing02:
bugger, never thought of that when I bought it, but to be fair it was cheap �15 and I am not sure what the cbr 6 brake set up is as I dont have brakes yet lol. But will keep that in mind when i get round to brakes :)
it was just soo shiney and it was calling out to me!! I am weak!! :)
What bike is it meant for?
I did the same thing... I had a radial Brembo master from a 2004 R1 in the garage, thought I'd use it on my 750, but it won't work because of sizing issues. System size for one, and master size.
Had a look at the brake lever all it says on it is K.R.D. :(
but i can try it, if it works great, if not ebay.it lol
Also on a other note has anyone machined the VF yolks out 2mm so that they can take 41mm forks or would that make them to weak, just an idea that popped in my head today, probably been tried by somone and don't work lol
CBR600 FM
Forks
Yolks (no Good stem too short)
Front and back wheels with tyres
Full front and back brakes
Swing arm
Rear Hugger
Front Mudguard
Rear shock and linkages
Handlebar clip ons
Just order'd the VF1000R Yolks from the ebay seller and a Swingarm bolt for the 600 swingarm, so need to wait for those to turn up. then need to work out if I need to add spacers to the swingarm or how I am gonna fix it to the VF750 frame.
Ohh well plenty to keep me busy and out of trouble
[image: View Post]dougie750, on 10 November 2009 - 12:14 PM, said:
Also on a other note has anyone machined the VF yolks out 2mm so that they can take 41mm forks or would that make them to weak, just an idea that popped in my head today, probably been tried by somone and don't work lol
While it's possible, you don't want to do that. You are correct, the material would get really thin around the fork tubes. Luckily there were a lot of bikes made with 41mm tubes so you should be able to find a used pet pretty easily.
I have loose forks in my garage that I took a quick look at last night. VF750F, VF1000R, and freshly rebuilt CBR600F3.
The CBR forks are about 2.5" shorter than the 1000R forks, and about 2.75" shorter than the 750F forks. This was just a quick eyeball with a tape measure, the forks were laying on the floor. I can drop an axle through them and get precise if you'd like Dougie.
I also did a quick check on my 750F, which I installed 1000R forks in. Before I installed those forks I welded the holes for the air crossover shut, so that I could raise the forks in the triple clamps for quicker turn-in. If memory serves, I brought them up 10mm to start. Currently I have right about 2.5" of tube showing above the top triple.
That means, that if I were to ride the bike right now and be happy w/ the handling, then I could take my CBR forks, install them so that the caps are flush with the top triple, along w/ a set of Superbike or dirt bike handlebars w/ risers, and not lose ride height.
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 13 November 2009 - 11:46 AM, said:
I have loose forks in my garage that I took a quick look at last night. VF750F, VF1000R, and freshly rebuilt CBR600F3.
The CBR forks are about 2.5" shorter than the 1000R forks, and about 2.75" shorter than the 750F forks. This was just a quick eyeball with a tape measure, the forks were laying on the floor. I can drop an axle through them and get precise if you'd like Dougie.
I also did a quick check on my 750F, which I installed 1000R forks in. Before I installed those forks I welded the holes for the air crossover shut, so that I could raise the forks in the triple clamps for quicker turn-in. If memory serves, I brought them up 10mm to start. Currently I have right about 2.5" of tube showing above the top triple.
That means, that if I were to ride the bike right now and be happy w/ the handling, then I could take my CBR forks, install them so that the caps are flush with the top triple, along w/ a set of Superbike or dirt bike handlebars w/ risers, and not lose ride height.
Thanks Seb, but to be honest these will have to do, am allready over my budget lol
From doing research I understand that the ride height is going to be lower, may have to do what Joep done (would still love to know what triples he used as the 91's are too short as well) and put the clipons on below the top triple, and cut away part of the fairing. This will be much easier for me to see when A) The VF1000R triples come B) I work out how I am going to attach the CBR6 swingarm to the VF frame :)
Also need to find a local welder that will make me a bigger "dogbone" and some spacers for the rear shock, then i can temp put it all together and make sure that everything lines up before heading off to the paint shop.
Think i might modify the original "chicken legs" and use them as spacers so that I can keep the center stand [image: Posted Image]
I feel much better now about this project, feels like things are starting to fall into place :)
Comments allways welcome :)
[image: View Post]dougie750, on 13 November 2009 - 01:06 PM, said:
Thanks Seb, but to be honest these will have to do, am allready over my budget lol
From doing research I understand that the ride height is going to be lower, may have to do what Joep done (would still love to know what triples he used as the 91's are too short as well) and put the clipons on below the top triple, and cut away part of the fairing. This will be much easier for me to see when A) The VF1000R triples come B) I work out how I am going to attach the CBR6 swingarm to the VF frame :)
Do the 1000F's have more of a rise than the 750's? They're 41mm aren't they? What diameter is the swingarm bolt for the CBR?
Crazy thought...how about these. 41mm, they look like they have a nice step down to the upper and you can run a dirt bike bar(which is cool IMO). Should get you close to factory height. Plus they look way more stout than the stock kR's triples. Not sure about the offset? Probably not wide enough for the front wheel?
Sorry kel did not see post till I had put everything away, will try and measure the swingarm bolt either tomorrow if i get time or it will be on tuesday :)
alignment looks ok, well it does to me. Gonna need to get a bigger "dogbone" to raise the ride height, plus had to put down a 1/2 inch plank of wood to get the rear wheel off the ground. Lots of clearance on the tyre from the chain and thats a 180 tyre on that wheel. Think the shock is buggered tho, no movement at all up and down :( so may need to add one of those back to the shopping list.
[image: View Post]Kel, on 15 November 2009 - 07:40 AM, said:
Do the 1000F's have more of a rise than the 750's? They're 41mm aren't they? What diameter is the swingarm bolt for the CBR?
Hey Kel, the diameter of the swingarm bolt is 14mm, I have spoken to a machine guy and he says that he can make one for me for �25 with a thread on each end, and �80 for a new dogbone, so i now know what I want for christmas :)
And to think, this was suposed to be on a budget lol
I have come across a slight flaw in my plan, was sat looking at the bike over a mug of tea when I looked across the garage and spied my down pipes for the exhaust, I then looked at the swingarm again and noticed that there is now a bar running across the frame (where the original swingarm had a gap), so now my custom exhaust will have to include the down pipes as well. I may get away with it if i bring the pipes out and under the battery tray and send the pipe over to the left hand (clutch) side of the bike. Bottom pipes should not be a problem.
Well its just somthing else I now need to figure out :)
Ok things been a bit slow over the last couple of months since christmas (been recovering from the costs :P ), hopefully starting to pick up again and getting back into the garage.
Just noticed the thread. Been through the area many times and wish I could come back with my VFR but it won't fit in my carry on! Some wonderful riding potential. Kinda of a useless addition this is too your bike overhaul but there are many more bike intelligent people here than me. Good luck-interesting build!
End of thread · 63 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 4 Jun 2011
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