Breaking The Chain.....

To some of you this is gonna sound dumb, but do I have to break the chain to remove it? Once I've removed the front and rear sprockets, can the chain (while it's still intact) be removed from the bike?

I didn't post this in the maintenance section in case the answer varies from one generation to the next.

Yes, you must. The chain cannot be removed complete.

You may be able to slip the chan off if you took apart all the stuff you suggested but if it is shot, all you have to do is take a hack saw with a 32 tooth / inch blade and cut it off. No fancy chain breaker needed and it cuts fast and easy.

I havve heard on a 6th gen you can remove it in 1 piece although I have yet to try.. Was also told the OEM chaim from the dealer is shipped in 1 piece..

? ? ? ?

[image: View Post]EmeraldVFR, on Oct 25 2009, 05:11 PM, said:

To some of you this is gonna sound dumb, but do I have to break the chain to remove it? Once I've removed the front and rear sprockets, can the chain (while it's still intact) be removed from the bike?

I didn't post this in the maintenance section in case the answer varies from one generation to the next.


http://www.vfrdiscus...;showarticle=54

I use a hand grinder and it takes just a minute or two

[image: View Post]Monk, on Oct 25 2009, 04:32 PM, said:

[image: View Post]EmeraldVFR, on Oct 25 2009, 05:11 PM, said:

To some of you this is gonna sound dumb, but do I have to break the chain to remove it? Once I've removed the front and rear sprockets, can the chain (while it's still intact) be removed from the bike?

I didn't post this in the maintenance section in case the answer varies from one generation to the next.


http://www.vfrdiscus...;showarticle=54


Yeah, I saw that, but that's not a VTEC. Also, I really don't wanna fiddle with the bolt that holds the SSSA in place. Knowing my luck I won't do it right and the SSSA will fall off in the middle of a ride.

My situation is I just got a stock chain that came off a VTEC with <2k miles. Mine's got over 24k now. The "new" chain is 100% intact. I'd rather not cut off the old one if I don't have to.

I don't have a chain breaker nor do I have a press and riveting tool to piece one together.

You have to remove swingarm to get chain on other side of main pivot Bolt with out breaking it , if you dont have the tools, let a shop break you chain and install. They'll put a master on your new one

You can do a chain in one piece on the 5th gen, but not on the 6th gen without removing the swingarm. Its a lot easier to buy or borrow a chain breaker instead.

[image: View Post]jeremy556, on Oct 25 2009, 05:33 PM, said:

You can do a chain in one piece on the 5th gen, but not on the 6th gen without removing the swingarm. Its a lot easier to buy or borrow a chain breaker instead.
That's what I'll probably do (i.e. get a breaker.) Maybe somebody on the local forum has one. Thanks for your input.

From the chain replacement article (and from my memory of doing the Factory Pro Shift Kit), it looks like the only thing in the way is the metal chain guide/left foot peg that the Swingarm Pivot Bolt passes through. If you look at Slammer's article, he didn't pull the Swingarm Pivot Bolt all the way out, just enough to free the chain - if he can get it off in one piece, you can put one on without breaking it. Just be sure to tighten everything to spec's and you should be fine.

[image: View Post]todes69, on Oct 25 2009, 07:30 PM, said:

From the chain replacement article (and from my memory of doing the Factory Pro Shift Kit), it looks like the only thing in the way is the metal chain guide/left foot peg that the Swingarm Pivot Bolt passes through. If you look at Slammer's article, he didn't pull the Swingarm Pivot Bolt all the way out, just enough to free the chain - if he can get it off in one piece, you can put one on without breaking it. Just be sure to tighten everything to spec's and you should be fine.
Not on a 6th gen

[image: View Post]jeremy556, on Oct 25 2009, 06:33 PM, said:

You can do a chain in one piece on the 5th gen, but not on the 6th gen without removing the swingarm. Its a lot easier to buy or borrow a chain breaker instead.


+1

I just use a dremel tool and grind down 2 rivets and the chain is off. I then pry the plate off with a scredriver. It takes 2 minutes.

Not being a smart a$$, but for some jobs you simply have to have the correct tools or pay someone to do the task for you.

Removing and installing a new chain is one of them. Short cuts will come back to bite you in the butt.

A pair of 24" boltcutters will make short work of an old chain.

[image: View Post]veefer800canuck, on Oct 25 2009, 09:56 PM, said:

A pair of 24" boltcutters will make short work of an old chain.

. . . . . . . as will a cutting torch.

[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 25 2009, 05:00 PM, said:

You have to remove swingarm to get chain on other side of main pivot Bolt with out breaking it , if you dont have the tools, let a shop break you chain and install. They'll put a master on your new one
It's funny you mention that because I don't think I've ever seen a master link on my bike's chain. When I was a kid I remember the master link on my bicycle's chain looked different than all the others. I also remember it was easy to pop off with a flathead. This might sound dumb, but if I get a shop to install a master link on my VFR's chain, will it be easy to remove? On a motorcycle chain I would think you woudn't want to be able to remove any link easily.

[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Oct 25 2009, 08:50 PM, said:

Not being a smart a$$, but for some jobs you simply have to have the correct tools or pay someone to do the task for you.

Removing and installing a new chain is one of them. Short cuts will come back to bite you in the butt.
You're not being a smart ass. You're simply stating what is fact.

I'm trying to learn how to do more and more of my own maintenance. I would definitely attempt something like this on my own, but never something like a valve job. No way. If a shop charges me, say, $75 to do the job, and I can get the tool I need for that price, I'd rather buy the tool and do it myself. Not only will I learn something but I'll also have another tool to add to my tool box.

[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Oct 25 2009, 08:09 PM, said:

[image: View Post]veefer800canuck, on Oct 25 2009, 09:56 PM, said:

A pair of 24" boltcutters will make short work of an old chain.

. . . . . . . as will a cutting torch.


:ohmy: Hope your fire insurance pays out after you light up all that leftover chain spooge hidden in the nooks and crannies of your bike!

[image: View Post]veefer800canuck, on Oct 25 2009, 11:03 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Oct 25 2009, 08:09 PM, said:

[image: View Post]veefer800canuck, on Oct 25 2009, 09:56 PM, said:

A pair of 24" boltcutters will make short work of an old chain.

. . . . . . . as will a cutting torch.


:ohmy: Hope your fire insurance pays out after you light up all that leftover chain spooge hidden in the nooks and crannies of your bike!

Ah, I'll just use it to light a cigarette :cool:

[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Oct 25 2009, 10:09 PM, said:

[image: View Post]veefer800canuck, on Oct 25 2009, 09:56 PM, said:

A pair of 24" boltcutters will make short work of an old chain.

. . . . . . . as will a cutting torch.

Or a 6" gas powered cut off saw :idea3: :wheel:

[image: View Post]EmeraldVFR, on Oct 25 2009, 10:15 PM, said:

[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 25 2009, 05:00 PM, said:

You have to remove swingarm to get chain on other side of main pivot Bolt with out breaking it , if you dont have the tools, let a shop break you chain and install. They'll put a master on your new one
It's funny you mention that because I don't think I've ever seen a master link on my bike's chain. When I was a kid I remember the master link on my bicycle's chain looked different than all the others. I also remember it was easy to pop off with a flathead. This might sound dumb, but if I get a shop to install a master link on my VFR's chain, will it be easy to remove? On a motorcycle chain I would think you woudn't want to be able to remove any link easily.
For 530 chains, the master links are riveted on, similar to all of the other links, but the master link's pins have a hollow end to make them easy to rivet with a chain tool. You can get easily removal clip type master links for 520 and 525 chains that work similar to the SRAM master links on a bicycle.

[image: View Post]EmeraldVFR, on Oct 25 2009, 10:15 PM, said:

[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 25 2009, 05:00 PM, said:

You have to remove swingarm to get chain on other side of main pivot Bolt with out breaking it , if you dont have the tools, let a shop break you chain and install. They'll put a master on your new one
It's funny you mention that because I don't think I've ever seen a master link on my bike's chain. When I was a kid I remember the master link on my bicycle's chain looked different than all the others. I also remember it was easy to pop off with a flathead. This might sound dumb, but if I get a shop to install a master link on my VFR's chain, will it be easy to remove? On a motorcycle chain I would think you woudn't want to be able to remove any link easily.

[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Oct 25 2009, 08:50 PM, said:

Not being a smart a$$, but for some jobs you simply have to have the correct tools or pay someone to do the task for you.

Removing and installing a new chain is one of them. Short cuts will come back to bite you in the butt.
You're not being a smart ass. You're simply stating what is fact.

I'm trying to learn how to do more and more of my own maintenance. I would definitely attempt something like this on my own, but never something like a valve job. No way. If a shop charges me, say, $75 to do the job, and I can get the tool I need for that price, I'd rather buy the tool and do it myself. Not only will I learn something but I'll also have another tool to add to my tool box.

Emerald:

Contemporary chains have what is called a "peened" master link. Clip type master links are only used on dirt bikes now days. Some folks refer to a peened master link as a "rivet type" master link. Look at the chain on the bike now. The master link will not be apparent. A contemporary chain's master link looks exactly like all of the other links. Once you install it, you have to use a "peening tool" to peen or rivet the head of the master link.

Therefore, removing the new chain will involve the same procedure as removing the original chain.

You've got the right attitude about spending $XXX for a tool if a shop is going to charge you $YYY. Good tools are an investment.


Pete

So much for my idea of using a hacksaw to remove the old chain and then taking the "new" one to the shop to have them install a master link (but not close the chain). This way when I got home I could slip the broken chain on and then simply snap the master link into place. Sounds like I won't be able to do that.

[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Oct 25 2009, 08:50 PM, said:

Not being a smart a$$, but for some jobs you simply have to have the correct tools or pay someone to do the task for you.

Removing and installing a new chain is one of them. Short cuts will come back to bite you in the butt.

Get a "Motion Pro" brand chain riveting kit, If you have a good tool, the job is sooooo easy, they are around $100. I can get them 20% off from my local dealer. If you havn't gone somewhere and had it done and would want one, let me know....I'm sure shipping to you would only be about $8.

http://www.motionpro...partno/08-0058/

You need a chain press (riveter) at minimum. Order two rivet-type master links fro ma dealer, then cut the old chain off by removing a link plate(grind the heads) or just cut right through one set of links with any handy tool. Then install your new chain with the chain press. The second link is there in case 1) you screw up the first one, and 2) if you don't screw up the first one, you're ready to install the second chain w/o going back to the dealer again.

By the way, at 24k, your old cahin is getting close to being done... why not just keep it on there another couple thou until lit dies and then replace it?

A good chain press runs between $70-100, and I would recommend that you get a Motion Pro brand. I've broken the cheaper ones but not the Motion Pro. You'll also need a dial, digital, or vernier caliper to measure the tail of the rivet to ensure it's been pressed properly. That'll run ya another $10-30, depending on type & brand.

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 26 2009, 08:26 AM, said:

You need a chain press (riveter) at minimum. Order two rivet-type master links fro ma dealer, then cut the old chain off by removing a link plate(grind the heads) or just cut right through one set of links with any handy tool. Then install your new chain with the chain press. The second link is there in case 1) you screw up the first one, and 2) if you don't screw up the first one, you're ready to install the second chain w/o going back to the dealer again.

By the way, at 24k, your old cahin is getting close to being done... why not just keep it on there another couple thou until lit dies and then replace it?

A good chain press runs between $70-100, and I would recommend that you get a Motion Pro brand. I've broken the cheaper ones but not the Motion Pro. You'll also need a dial, digital, or vernier caliper to measure the tail of the rivet to ensure it's been pressed properly. That'll run ya another $10-30, depending on type & brand.

New chain should come with a rivet type master link, probably only need to order 1 extra (just in case link). Good idea on putting a caliper on the riveted links, but what should the measurement be? I've never had a chain come with instructions :idea3: that I've paid attention to anyway. :goofy:

[image: View Post]Luvmyvfr, on Oct 26 2009, 09:35 AM, said:

New chain should come with a rivet type master link, probably only need to order 1 extra (just in case link). Good idea on putting a caliper on the riveted links, but what should the measurement be? I've never had a chain come with instructions :idea3: that I've paid attention to anyway. :goofy:

You can find the rivet tail dimensions in your Honda shop manual. Might be listed in one of the how-to's here on the site too. :fing02: IIRC, it's around .190" or so? Don't quote me on that though...

AS far as the master link, I've seen new chains come with both. Generally the better chains come with rivet types. Steve stated that he's getting a used OEM chain though...

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Oct 26 2009, 08:46 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Luvmyvfr, on Oct 26 2009, 09:35 AM, said:

New chain should come with a rivet type master link, probably only need to order 1 extra (just in case link). Good idea on putting a caliper on the riveted links, but what should the measurement be? I've never had a chain come with instructions :idea3: that I've paid attention to anyway. :goofy:

You can find the rivet tail dimensions in your Honda shop manual. Might be listed in one of the how-to's here on the site too. :fing02: IIRC, it's around .190" or so? Don't quote me on that though...

AS far as the master link, I've seen new chains come with both. Generally the better chains come with rivet types. Steve stated that he's getting a used OEM chain though...

AHA!! 8:50 am and I just learned my new thing for the day!! I have always just riveted them until it looks right, and havn't had a chain fall off yet or kink at the master.....but now i can add one more tool to the chain riveting process!!!

:beer: ....oh wait, too early for that...how bout :fing02:

:fing02:

I got a digital 6" caliper at Harbor Freight, on sale for $16 I think, works great and is pretty darn accurate. Had it checked by the Q/A department at work! Made by Cen-Tech I believe. :cool:

Here is an option to the conventional chain rivet tool.
Cost is about $10 and they work like a charm.
They are compatible with other brand chains if you don't want to use EK brand.
I have 15K miles on an EK chain with the screw type master link. No issues.

[image: View Post]Monk, on Oct 27 2009, 12:32 AM, said:

Yes, I understand the concept(and I have the chain tool).... But that's like a feeler gauge to check valves.... in the hands of someone that does it 5 days a week, Vs., some one that hasn't done one before..... "DO IT TILL IT FEEL RIGHT ?"......
I think it is just the opposite, like using a torque wrench: Tighten untill it clicks (with the chain tool untill it stops) and you know everthing is just perfect.

This is the tool I am talking about. (& user manual)
http://image.dirtrider.com/f/16775290/141_0808_01_z%20gear_bag%20did_chain_km501e_tool.jpg

And for all those who don't have, don't want to buy, can't borrow, or are a bit adventurous.

I have done this about 5 times to date and it has turned out perfectly each time.

Linkster

The side plate unto itself goes on with a tight machine fit and the peening at the ends of the master link posts does not have to be excessive for it to hold safely without ever coming off.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/scan0001-3.jpg
[/quote]


Buy the whole kit for for $97.98 and have a great set and be done with it!! :fing02: I could probably get it shipped to you for $95 or a little less....just let me know!

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Oct 26 2009, 10:21 PM, said:

If your goal is to save money, and I suspect that is part of your reason for doing it yourself and using a used chain, I have a Steel OEM sprocket I took off my bike. It had a lot of miles, but I put it up next to my new sprocket and the teeth looked the same. It's your's if you want it.
Thanks for the offer, but guess what? After having read what everybody's had to say, this is way more than I bargained for. The SSSA is coming down and that's how I'm gonna do this. The bike is going on its center stand, the rear wheel is coming off, the front sprocket cover is coming off, the rear sprocket after that, and then the SSSA is coming down. Since I'm not going to be needing that Motion Pro tool, I'll be okay with just having to buy a new aluminum rear sprocket. Thanks for the offer and have a virtual beer on me :beer: (P.S. it's a Shiner Bock!)

I realize the SSSA is heavy and I'll be sure to place it on something as opposed to resting it on the floor. When it comes time to put it on, I'll ask my neighbor to hold it in place for me.

[image: View Post]soichiro, on Oct 26 2009, 11:10 PM, said:

A used chain with worn out sprockets. Sounds like a real bad idea. bbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
I think I'm gonna have to disagree with you. When I put my "old" aluminum sprocket on, my chain had about 14k miles. The situation I'm in now is expected with an aluminum sprocket with 10k miles. With a another new sprocket and a chain with <2k miles, I believe I'll be okay. If I was okay with a chain with 14k, I'll be okay with one with <2k. True, the ideal solution is to just get new everything, but based on my experience, I think I'll be okay.

[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Oct 26 2009, 11:12 PM, said:

Emerald:

When you cut the old chain off, it doesn't matter which link you grind down and punch through. It does not have to be the "master" link.

Pete
Cutting the old chain off certainly would have been the quick and easy solution. My reason for wanting to break it the proper way was to learn something new and gain from the experience. Now that the SSSA is coming down, I should be able to just slide it out.

Aluminum sprockets arent worth squat on a vfr, (steel only) they last 10x longer, even if you dont lube them

Kind of old news now but since I didn't have a chain breaker or dremel, I broke the chain the old fashioned way: With a hacksaw.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/DSCN1026.jpg


What a mess:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/DSCN1027.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/DSCN1021.jpg

Now that's more like it.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/DSCN1032.jpg


Ever wonder what an aluminum sprocket looks like after 10k miles?
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/DSCN1029.jpg


Both the "new" chain and sprocket came off an '06 VFR with 1,942 miles. The guy couldn't find the front sprocket or else I would have bought it, too. The good news is my front sprocket still has plenty of life left.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/sprocket2.jpg


A guy on eBay sold me two new DID 530 clip-on master links for $9 with free shipping. I put on the clip-on master link and then tightened the chain.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/sprocket1.jpg


I rode to the dealership (<5 miles from where I live) and had them install a rivet-on master link (below.) They charged me a 1/2 hour in labor and properly torqued the nuts on the rear sprocket (I still don't have a torque wrench.)
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/DSCN1018.jpg


***I've got an extra DID 530 clip-on master link that's still in the unopened package. If you want it, it's yours.***

Next week's job: oil change.