Sitting on my beer cooler last night and staring at my bike, :goofy: I got to looking at my rear exhaust headers. I notice where they come out of the rear cylinder heads, there is quite a bit of rust on them. Has anyone removed the system and sanded and repainted the headers? Is there a write-up somewhere I haven't seen yet? After reading so much about how the 98 headers are sought after so much, I thought I might do some TLC on them. Suggestions and opinions are much appreciated. :beer:
Is repainting factory exhaust headers feasable?
10 posts Started 6 Jan 2010 Last recovered post 6 Jan 2010 Wayback Machine snapshot 21 Mar 2013
When I was first discovered that 5gen pipes would fit on the vtec, I painted the test set I bought off ebay. I did everything by the book; took off the original paint and rust down to clean bare metal, rinsed/cleaned with paint thinner, used rubber gloves to avoid thumb prints/skin oils, making jigs to support everything in the air, let them air cure, several motor warmups for additional curing before riding, etc. That's a lot of prep. time and effort. This is the best pic I have handy of the header pipes after painting.
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They looked great but within weeks the high temp header paint began to flake off at the bends and leading edges.
Plus it's a lot of work to pull the exhaust off the bike (especially the rear head tubes) and reinstalling by yourself without scratching the new paint is no joy either.
If I were to do it all over again, I wouldn't. I'd send them out to jet-hot coat or competitor for a high-temp coating.
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![[image: Posted Image]](http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb70/fotomotovfr/rightreartermignonis-1.jpg){kind=link}
They looked great but within weeks the high temp header paint began to flake off at the bends and leading edges.
Plus it's a lot of work to pull the exhaust off the bike (especially the rear head tubes) and reinstalling by yourself without scratching the new paint is no joy either.
If I were to do it all over again, I wouldn't. I'd send them out to jet-hot coat or competitor for a high-temp coating.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :fing02:
Jet-Hot is the way to go.
Proper surface prep is key. I've heard of some folks getting rust bleeding through the Jet-Hot coating over time and in my opinion, it's due to inadequate surface prep.
I sandblasted my own headers in the cabinet here at work, and I was absolutely fastidious about getting every square millimeter down to white metal before I took them in to be Jet coated.
The results are superb and have been for several years now.
Jet-Hot is the way to go.
Proper surface prep is key. I've heard of some folks getting rust bleeding through the Jet-Hot coating over time and in my opinion, it's due to inadequate surface prep.
I sandblasted my own headers in the cabinet here at work, and I was absolutely fastidious about getting every square millimeter down to white metal before I took them in to be Jet coated.
The results are superb and have been for several years now.
:rolleyes:
Indeed, no header paint in the world will last more than a week or two on those pipes. I'm a huge fan of JetHot, but even that has shown some of the rust bleed-through that veefer mentioned. And on my RC, the rear pipe went dull very quickly due to the vicious heat and lack of airflow when not moving. Dang!
Anyway, your choices are clear: Do nothing or go with JetHot. Plan for a total outlay of about $270 or so, considering shipping and new gaskets. And there are LOTS of JetHot threads and pictures here. :rolleyes:
Indeed, no header paint in the world will last more than a week or two on those pipes. I'm a huge fan of JetHot, but even that has shown some of the rust bleed-through that veefer mentioned. And on my RC, the rear pipe went dull very quickly due to the vicious heat and lack of airflow when not moving. Dang!
Anyway, your choices are clear: Do nothing or go with JetHot. Plan for a total outlay of about $270 or so, considering shipping and new gaskets. And there are LOTS of JetHot threads and pictures here. :rolleyes:
Ok, thanks guys. Will look into the JetHot option. One more question is regarding the computer on my bike: The bike runs fine, but I see there are downloads in the download area regarding dynojet and some which have been custom made. I noticed Trace had one, and something about staintune european model people are liking. Is this a feature I can use and is it as simple as downloading and adding to my own bike? Do I need a special adapter from a lap top to the bike? Thanks again. Lance :beer:
You have a Power Commander, yes?
If so, you need a cable to attach the power commander to your computer and load the new map from the computer to the Power Commander.
If so, you need a cable to attach the power commander to your computer and load the new map from the computer to the Power Commander.
You have a Power Commander, yes?
If so, you need a cable to attach the power commander to your computer and load the new map from the computer to the Power Commander.
No, I don't have a Power Commander. My bike is stock except for the Two Brothers exhaust. My air filter is stock as well. Is there any software that I can download for fueling without having the chip or programmer?
Jet-Hot ?? Yeah... Right... Ok...
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jet-hot round 2 003.jpg
Jet-Hot sucks!!!
This was after the second attempt... Don't waste your money. You're better off with a stainless Motad or something similar.
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jet-hot round 2 003.jpg
Jet-Hot sucks!!!
This was after the second attempt... Don't waste your money. You're better off with a stainless Motad or something similar.
Sandblasting is the only way to go. Using sandpaper actually makes the surface too smooth for the paint to bond to properly. I went up to Northern Hydraulics, got one of their cheapo models where it sprays crap every where. It take about 2 containers of aluminum oxide to do an entire set of '98 headers correctly.
I then shot them with Techline Coatings "Cil Gen". Cil Gen is an air dry ceramic coating. I haven't put them on the bike yet, but I can tell you from screwing up my first Cil Gen job and having to reblast the headers, the stuff is tough.
One thing I'm learning from personal experience. Every manufacturer will tell you their paint completely dries in 4 hrs, 24 hrs, blah, blah, blah. Truth is, paint (of every kind I've ever messed with) really and truly doesn't dry close to 100% for about a month or so. That includes header paint, house paint, body paint, you name it.
Cil Gen is not cheap and it has a kick to it that will scare the crap out of you. When they say a well ventilated space, they mean a well ventilated space. The first time I shot my headers I did it in the basement with the doors open. Just about killed me. The next time I shot them outside.
The headers also have to be all but antiseptic when you paint them. I blast mine, then wash them in a new, clean mortar mixing tub you get at Home Depot for $3.97. I use a gallon of lacquer thinner and wearing heavy rubber gloves the entire time. Slosh the lacquer thinner around, use a clean lint free rag to wipe them down. I spray the pipes as soon as the lacquer thinner dries. I try to leave a minimum window of time where the headers are in a bare metal state. Remember the first microscopic bit of rust that forms is not visible with the naked eye.
And don't even think about trying to paint unless it's about 60°F or above.
Here's a link to TechLine Coatings Cil Gen:
http://www.techlinec...em-coatings.htm
I then shot them with Techline Coatings "Cil Gen". Cil Gen is an air dry ceramic coating. I haven't put them on the bike yet, but I can tell you from screwing up my first Cil Gen job and having to reblast the headers, the stuff is tough.
One thing I'm learning from personal experience. Every manufacturer will tell you their paint completely dries in 4 hrs, 24 hrs, blah, blah, blah. Truth is, paint (of every kind I've ever messed with) really and truly doesn't dry close to 100% for about a month or so. That includes header paint, house paint, body paint, you name it.
Cil Gen is not cheap and it has a kick to it that will scare the crap out of you. When they say a well ventilated space, they mean a well ventilated space. The first time I shot my headers I did it in the basement with the doors open. Just about killed me. The next time I shot them outside.
The headers also have to be all but antiseptic when you paint them. I blast mine, then wash them in a new, clean mortar mixing tub you get at Home Depot for $3.97. I use a gallon of lacquer thinner and wearing heavy rubber gloves the entire time. Slosh the lacquer thinner around, use a clean lint free rag to wipe them down. I spray the pipes as soon as the lacquer thinner dries. I try to leave a minimum window of time where the headers are in a bare metal state. Remember the first microscopic bit of rust that forms is not visible with the naked eye.
And don't even think about trying to paint unless it's about 60°F or above.
Here's a link to TechLine Coatings Cil Gen:
http://www.techlinec...em-coatings.htm
You have a Power Commander, yes?
If so, you need a cable to attach the power commander to your computer and load the new map from the computer to the Power Commander.
No, I don't have a Power Commander. My bike is stock except for the Two Brothers exhaust. My air filter is stock as well. Is there any software that I can download for fueling without having the chip or programmer?
The factory ECU is non-adjustable. If you want to fiddle with fueling, you need a Power Commander or equivalent, like the Techlusion TFI box, etc.
End of thread · 10 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 21 Mar 2013