Fork swap, maintaining ABS

I'm contemplating a front end conversion, but want to keep the linked brakes and ABS. I'd go to SS lines though.

My understanding is that I would have to keep my brakes and rotors, and thus, maybe wheel...

I'm just wondering if there is a fork combo that works to maintain the functionality of the ABS, while giving the improved handling. I understand I'd have to fab up a custom brake line brakets for the cross over behind the forks.

Or am I stuck with re-valve/spring(+F4i cartridges)?

You'd be figuring out how to mount the secondary master cylinder and the ABS sensors.


Sounds like, with your goals in mind, that a respring/revalve is the way to go.

As far as I know it's F4i internals to achieve Rebound adjustments Only, Unless you have money for a good machinist to fab-up the needed mounting points for the left Linked caliper assembly and the right side ABS sensor. :ph34r:

I wonder if you need the linked braking for the ABS to work properly? :unsure: If not, then you only need a ABS sensor mount! :cool:

[image: View Post]BaileyRock, on 07 January 2010 - 06:11 PM, said:

I wonder if you need the linked braking for the ABS to work properly? :unsure: If not, then you only need a ABS sensor mount! :cool:


Well, the ABS just releases your applied pressure when it senses lock up, but you'd have to find the full linked brakes diagram to be sure. I'm certain it would take the pressure out of the "main" lines independently (front/rear), so theoretically, if you maintained a quasi linked system with the abs lines intact, it should work.

I'd like to stay linked though.

I've been wondering this too, I do have the machinist capabilities to do any changes needed (up to and including full CNC machine), but don't think I'll be able to start playing with anything because of all the work I'm doing on mine now. My accountant (wife) has suggested I should probably be satisfied with the paint, powdercoat, exhaust, powercommander, and air filter that I'm doing this winter. LOL. I'll have to begin explaining to her how upgrading my forks is actually to protect her while we're riding since it makes the bike safer. LOL. I'll probably wait till next winter until the forks get a mysterious "leak" because of age, which I'll explain as common for an '05. :warranty:

Intewesting...

I was once thinking about doing a fork/wheel swap on my ST1300A (no, I don't have anything better to do!), and one of the biggest problems I found was how I might retain the ABS whilst ditching the LBS. So, I gathered some parts off the 'Bay (CB1000R front wheel, VTEC ABS sensor ring and sensor, 45mm OD forks, etc.), and studied the ABS and braking systems. I do think it can be done, as they are separate systems, but the more I thought about it the less I really wanted to be the crash test dummy for the concept. I still know very little about how ABS works, or how the Honda engineers decided upon the parameters they ultimately specified for production on THAT motorcycle, with those brakes and those forks. How would I even test whether or not I had done everything properly? Fit some outriggers and aim for death? It was a fun exercise, though. Maybe I'll do it anyway someday, if only to pi$$ off the finger-wagging old fogeys (of all ages) who tend to ride STs!

Ciao,

What about swapping forks with something that came with USD forks and LBS/ABS?

IE:

[image: Posted Image]

^^^ Concours-14



Any thoughts?

Anyone happen to be familiar with the specs? :warranty:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]

To see how it works? :comp13:


EDIT:

Quote

But what really sets the new linked-ABS apart is the rider-selectable level of linking. For starters, ABS cannot be disabled, but by pressing the orange K-ACT button (bike must be stopped to select modes) the rider can choose the “high-combined” effect in Mode 2 or the lesser-combined effect in Mode 1.

K-ACT mode selection impacts the amount of front brake application (only one of the two front calipers are involved regardless of Mode 1 or 2) when applying only the rear brake. The amount of linking applied to the rear when using the front brake remains constant.

One of the first acts of eval I wanted to perform was to see just how well the new ABS worked, as Kawi staff encouraged us to sample it.

Purposely dismissing use of the front brake, I mashed on the rear brake in high-combined mode and was, well, shocked at just how much force was applied to the front by the system. It was almost like grabbing a handful.

Of course less effort at the rear brake pedal will result in less front application; regardless of mode selection the ABS’ brain makes “infinitely variable” adjustments. Using the lesser of the two settings, front brake application via K-ACT is nearly imperceptible, and in some instances preferable, at least for my taste.

When ABS did activate I was pleased with the minimal feedback (pumping) through the pedal and/or lever.

Beyond the typical “ramping up” in braking effort that K-ACT generates, as do most anti-lock systems, the most notable experience is just how forceful front application can be. Be sure to sample it in small doses at first until you get the feel. Good or bad, front brake involvement in this linked system is greater (when in High mode) than in any other linked ABS I’ve used.

Looks like it's all computer controlled, instead of being mechanical... Blarg.

Any other options with all three: USD/LBS/ABS?

So, I've been thinking about this some more...

I'm trying to figure out exactly how that linked braking works on the Connie. Are those just normal single port calipers out front? When you use the rear, does it just put a little pressure into the main front line. That would give just a little squeeze, but even over all pistons. Is that what's going on there?

USD + LBS + ABS = VFR1200F :idea3:

[image: View Post]Vee-Ef-Ar, on 26 March 2010 - 11:33 PM, said:

USD + LBS + ABS = VFR1200F :idea3:

Cheeky... But getting the front end off one of those $$$... :rolleyes: