heated grips

I was wondering how others have wired in there heated grips. I already have a pigtail for my gps and heated gear and autocomm coming off the batt no room there. Is there a factory connection for them???

Thanks

Dan

you need a fuse block.
http://www.vfrdiscus...=1&#entry623790

there is more if you keep seaching.

The current draw is pretty low. You can also wire them into your license plate light circuit if you don't have a fuse block and don't plan on hooking up any more electrical stuff.. I've done that on two different motorcycles - no problems.

Mine are wired to the ignition, so when the key is off, the grips are off.
There are a bunch of options, choose where you want to hack.

Mac

A more technically inclined buddy of mine ran mine off the headlight power - ignition off, grips off. Work like a charm too - amazing how warm hands make the rest of you feel more comfortable on a chilly ride. :fing02:

Headlights on one bike and fuseblock on the other. Fuseblock is the way to go if you're going to be running a lot or are a neat/gadget freak.

I had a purple hot wire left over from my fenderectomy (Tag lamp, who needs em!). I re-routed this wire firward and used it as the switched power for my grips. 1.5 winters and no problems.

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on 08 January 2010 - 11:08 AM, said:

you need a fuse block.
http://www.vfrdiscus...=1&#entry623790

there is more if you keep seaching.
+1

what he said. I use one of these on each of my bikes http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

wouldn't run the toys any other way. (variants on the same theme are fine, i.e. the other similar relay options)

[image: View Post]Terminex, on 08 January 2010 - 07:52 PM, said:

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on 08 January 2010 - 11:08 AM, said:

you need a fuse block.
http://www.vfrdiscus...=1&#entry623790

there is more if you keep seaching.
+1

what he said. I use one of these on each of my bikes http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

wouldn't run the toys any other way. (variants on the same theme are fine, i.e. the other similar relay options)


+1 :fing02:

I just added a Fuzeblock to my list of things to get over the winter. I have a heated jacket that I have hooked up directly to the battery for now. I bought heated grips that I have to install yet and I'm going to buy a GPS over the winter. So with all that, I think a Fuzeblock would make sense.

Thanks for all the info. :fing02:

I believe I have mine tapped into the circuit for the radiator fan and then through a hi-lo switch. It is switched and close to the upper fairing panel wheere I have the switch located. That is the way I had it on my 2002 and pretty sure I got the guy who did it to do the same on my 2007.

[image: View Post]timmythecop, on 08 January 2010 - 12:08 PM, said:

you need a fuse block.
http://www.vfrdiscus...=1&#entry623790

there is more if you keep seaching.
Two other fuse block options (Eastern Beaver):

Centech AP-2 and Eastern Beaver PC-8 Side by Side
Notice the Centech is actually taller and that's without a complete top cover. It has no mounting tabs on the ends.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc8-ap2-sides.jpg

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/a_pc8-ap2-bottoms.jpghttp://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/a_pc8-ap2-tops.jpg
The PC-8 is a little longer, while the AP-2 is a little wider.

On the left above, my clear polycarbonate prototype showing the PC-8's complete bottom cover. I think the quality difference in the PCBs is quite evident here as well. The PC-8 is designed to be virtually spash proof but it does have built in breathing slots and holes to avoid moisture build up inside the case.
The PC-8's bottom four mounting screws will allow mounting from below with slightly longer screws. Or you can mount like the Centech, using machine screws from the PCB down. Of course the PC-8's mounting ears are the easiest way to mount it using screws or nuts and bolts. These ears make mounting to an auxiliary mounting panel a snap too.
Let me sum up the features for you - a fuse on every output, splash-proof polycarbonate casing, complete PCB protection, multiple easy mounting abilities, and a place to write the Amperage and circuit functions - the PC-8 is in a class of its own.

I have a Bluesea in my 5th gen VFR which I installed several years ago. The only advantages of the Bluesea are cost, theoretically marine/on water worthy and that if can take both sizes of fuses (shown below). My VFF install is described in my "Tales of Zumo" Thread. If you are over 30 you need to have your heated grips on a switched circuit :unsure: :goofy:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1175465906/med_gallery_2144_2760_710836.jpg

I recently did the heated grips, outlet & GPS install on my KLR. I went with the Fuseblock setup mostly because of size, integrated relay and the option of very easily allowing switched or unswitched accessories off the same block......... but not cost!
http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/44218/2872117230099738507S600x600Q85.jpg

[image: View Post]BonusVFR, on 09 January 2010 - 01:54 PM, said:

I have a Bluesea in my 5th gen VFR which I installed several years ago. The only advantages of the Bluesea are cost, theoretically marine/on water worthy and that if can take both sizes of fuses (shown below). My VFF install is described in my "Tales of Zumo" Thread. If you are over 30 you need to have your heated grips on a switched circuit :unsure: :goofy:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1175465906/med_gallery_2144_2760_710836.jpg

I recently did the heated grips, outlet & GPS install on my KLR. I went with the Fuseblock setup mostly because of size, integrated relay and the option of very easily allowing switched or unswitched accessories off the same block......... but not cost!
http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/44218/2872117230099738507S600x600Q85.jpg

The reason I went with the Fuzeblock is beacuse the fuse for each item wired in is all you need to change to go from always on to switched power on each item. It makes it SOOOOOOOOO easy when I want to change something after wiring it up.

Especially when you have this dodad which requires an always hot lead and a switched lead.

http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/43942/2284520610099738507S600x600Q85.jpg

If you remove the wind screen , is that the easiest way to get to the dash bulbs?

I find the fuse panel to be the best option as well...I wouldn't run them from the tail light as that wire is incredibly small for such a load(they do draw quite a bit on high). To add to the available fuse panel options I do have my own custom kit, which can be found here:
http://www.wiremybik...8959d91b53db7b1
http://www.wiremybike.com/images/FusePanelKitforVFRness.jpg

I offer both switched and unswitched circuits as desired.

I'm going to highly recommend Tightwad's kit. High quality stuff for the price, well packaged and put together, known to work great on VFR's.

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on 14 January 2010 - 01:50 PM, said:

I find the fuse panel to be the best option as well...I wouldn't run them from the tail light as that wire is incredibly small for such a load(they do draw quite a bit on high). To add to the available fuse panel options I do have my own custom kit, which can be found here:
http://www.wiremybik...8959d91b53db7b1
http://www.wiremybike.com/images/FusePanelKitforVFRness.jpg

I offer both switched and unswitched circuits as desired.

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on 14 January 2010 - 10:50 AM, said:

I find the fuse panel to be the best option as well...I wouldn't run them from the tail light as that wire is incredibly small for such a load(they do draw quite a bit on high). To add to the available fuse panel options I do have my own custom kit, which can be found here:
http://www.wiremybik...8959d91b53db7b1
http://www.wiremybike.com/images/FusePanelKitforVFRness.jpg

I offer both switched and unswitched circuits as desired.

If I were going to do my VFR again with the options available today, I would pick this one.

I'm definitely going to pick that up Tightwad. I've got a set of heated grips that I need to install, I already have a heated jacket liner, and I'm going to add a GPS before spring. Everything I've read recommends some kind of fuse block after so many electrical add-ons.

Now if I only had a garage, I could install them, plus the OEM hard bags I picked up, before spring. :angry: