Well I fixed the head light problem by replacing a fuse and now the bike won't turn over.. I hooked a volt meter up with the ignition on i get 11.5 volts at the battery when I hit the start button the headlight go out and the voltage jump to 12.8 shouldn't the voltage go down if the starter engages I am confused here...
[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 19 February 2010 - 05:05 PM, said:
Well I fixed the head light problem by replacing a fuse and now the bike won't turn over.. I hooked a volt meter up with the ignition on i get 11.5 volts at the battery when I hit the start button the headlight go out and the voltage jump to 12.8 shouldn't the voltage go down if the starter engages I am confused here...
Dan
When did it last start ok on the battery, have you tried charging it up or jumping it? I suspect with the headlights on you've got an amp draw that is resulting in the 11.5V and hitting the start switch kills the headlight so the V reads higher.
[image: View Post]vfrcapn, on 19 February 2010 - 08:11 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 19 February 2010 - 05:05 PM, said:
Well I fixed the head light problem by replacing a fuse and now the bike won't turn over.. I hooked a volt meter up with the ignition on i get 11.5 volts at the battery when I hit the start button the headlight go out and the voltage jump to 12.8 shouldn't the voltage go down if the starter engages I am confused here...
Dan
When did it last start ok on the battery, have you tried charging it up or jumping it? I suspect with the headlights on you've got an amp draw that is resulting in the 11.5V and hitting the start switch kills the headlight so the V reads higher.
i got it running bike doesn't like to start in gear with the side stand down...OPPS One other question when the bike is running I measure 15.8 to 16.0 volts at the batt @ idle is that to much???
[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 19 February 2010 - 05:32 PM, said:
[image: View Post]vfrcapn, on 19 February 2010 - 08:11 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 19 February 2010 - 05:05 PM, said:
Well I fixed the head light problem by replacing a fuse and now the bike won't turn over.. I hooked a volt meter up with the ignition on i get 11.5 volts at the battery when I hit the start button the headlight go out and the voltage jump to 12.8 shouldn't the voltage go down if the starter engages I am confused here...
Dan
When did it last start ok on the battery, have you tried charging it up or jumping it? I suspect with the headlights on you've got an amp draw that is resulting in the 11.5V and hitting the start switch kills the headlight so the V reads higher.
i got it running bike doesn't like to start in gear with the side stand down...OPPS One other question when the bike is running I measure 15.8 to 16.0 volts at the batt @ idle is that to much???
thanks
Dan
It's always the simple things isn't it. :biggrin:
That voltage is high but may be due to a low battery? Best thing is to charge it up and test your charging system. Here's a guide: http://www.electrosp...nding-guide.php
[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 19 February 2010 - 08:32 PM, said:
i got it running bike doesn't like to start in gear with the side stand down...OPPS One other question when the bike is running I measure 15.8 to 16.0 volts at the batt @ idle is that to much???
thanks
Dan
Yes, that is awfully high. What kind of RPM's are you measuring that voltage at?
[image: View Post]Ryanme17, on 19 February 2010 - 09:44 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 19 February 2010 - 08:32 PM, said:
i got it running bike doesn't like to start in gear with the side stand down...OPPS One other question when the bike is running I measure 15.8 to 16.0 volts at the batt @ idle is that to much???
thanks
idle 1000 rpms I don't think the batt is fully charged either...
Dan
Yes, that is awfully high. What kind of RPM's are you measuring that voltage at?\
idle 1000 rpms I don't think the batt is fully charged either...gonna let the batt charge over nite and try it @ 2500 and 5000 rpms tomorrow...
I check the voltage at one of the tail lights and it was more like 11.5 volts wondering if I am chasing electrical gerlims...
I think your R/R is fine, but I think your monitor wire is giving a bad reading and the R/R is working too hard! Check out the electrical thread on "Beef up dem wires"...last pinned thread in the 6th gen forum I think. You can also check out my VFRness (links in my sig) which is designed to solve this and other charging issues related to the wiring.
I had assumed, like Chris2992 that a faulty R/R was the cause of the blown fuse and all of your problems, but was waiting on more info. If you're pretty sure of the cause of the blown fuse, then I would almost guarantee that Tightwad is right and that a VFRness is in order and would solve all your electrical gremlins.
Also, for what it's worth, the VFRness is a super-easy install, a brilliantly-engineered fix, and it amazes me (given the cost of wire), that he can sell them for what he does. You could call me a satisfied customer.
Oh, and lastly, look around his website, you can get a relayed fusebox for powering your farkles and you don't have to worry about blowing your tail-light again.
[image: View Post]Ryanme17, on 20 February 2010 - 01:40 AM, said:
I had assumed, like Chris2992 that a faulty R/R was the cause of the blown fuse and all of your problems, but was waiting on more info. If you're pretty sure of the cause of the blown fuse, then I would almost guarantee that Tightwad is right and that a VFRness is in order and would solve all your electrical gremlins.
Also, for what it's worth, the VFRness is a super-easy install, a brilliantly-engineered fix, and it amazes me (given the cost of wire), that he can sell them for what he does. You could call me a satisfied customer.
Oh, and lastly, look around his website, you can get a relayed fusebox for powering your farkles and you don't have to worry about blowing your tail-light again.
[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 20 February 2010 - 12:00 PM, said:
Ok what is a VFRness?? huh?
A VFRness is a wiring harness (HAR-ness VF R-ness, get it?) that bypasses and replaces the monitor wire and provides a much better charging path from the R/R to the battery. It was invented to fix the monitor wire overcharging problem, the blown 30 amp fuse problem, and the crappy stock wiring problem. Basically, it goes into the R/R harness and to the battery. I'm sure I described that completely wrong, but you can PM member Tightwad for more, better information.
Oh, and here's a fuse box that fits right into the VFRness (the VFRness has a power relay output) if your wiring to your tail-light for your handgrips is bad.
[image: View Post]Ryanme17, on 20 February 2010 - 12:31 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 20 February 2010 - 12:00 PM, said:
Ok what is a VFRness?? huh?
A VFRness is a wiring harness (HAR-ness VF R-ness, get it?) that bypasses and replaces the monitor wire and provides a much better charging path from the R/R to the battery. It was invented to fix the monitor wire overcharging problem, the blown 30 amp fuse problem, and the crappy stock wiring problem. Basically, it goes into the R/R harness and to the battery. I'm sure I described that completely wrong, but you can PM member Tightwad for more, better information.
Oh, and here's a fuse box that fits right into the VFRness (the VFRness has a power relay output) if your wiring to your tail-light for your handgrips is bad.
[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 20 February 2010 - 05:37 PM, said:
Ok gonna order me a harness..with a fuse box should I upgrade the R/R or is it ok to leave alone with this mod...
thanks
Dan
If the problem is only your monitor wire, as I suspect, then your R/R should be okay with no need to upgrade.
But you should double check with Joshua (username Tightwad) before you order. He knows more about VFR wiring/electricals than anyone I know.
End of thread · 16 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 30 Mar 2010