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2000 VFR800 Front Sprocket Won't Budge

7 posts Started 27 Mar 2010 Last recovered post 28 Mar 2010 Wayback Machine snapshot 17 Jul 2010

#1
Ok, so today I decided that since my new chain and sprockets were in, I would go ahead and change em out. I helped a buddy of mine that has the same bike as I and he didn't seem to really have any issues. I on the other hand, can't get the d@#$ed front sprocket bolt to break loose. I'm thrown an impact on it, breaker bar, nothing.. Granted I am a skinny little @#$# so I don't have a lot of power backing me up, which the impact should have taken care of.

Q1: Has anyone had this issue before?
Q2: Is there a trick to getting the front sprocket bolt loose?
Q3: How are you? (Optional) haha


Let me know... GO CATS!
#2
Put the bike in gear, chain on, and have someone step on the rear brake for you. Then crank on the bolt with a breaker bar. Try not to use an impact so you don't damage the threads.

If you have the chain on, and the rear brake is not applied, and you're not turning the motor over when you try to loosen the bolt, then you're not trying hard enough. Hence the application of the rear brake.

If applying the brake isn't enough: As a last resort you can put the bike in neutral, and spin the front sprocket so that the old chain wraps around it(obviously you need to cut the chain first). As the chain winds up, it will bind against the engine case, effectively locking the sprocket in place. This is not advised as a first measure, because there is a risk of damaging the engine case.

And pray that someone didn't put Loctite on it... :3:
#3

[image: View Post]Spydertek, on 27 March 2010 - 01:48 PM, said:

Ok, so today I decided that since my new chain and sprockets were in, I would go ahead and change em out. I helped a buddy of mine that has the same bike as I and he didn't seem to really have any issues. I on the other hand, can't get the d@#$ed front sprocket bolt to break loose. I'm thrown an impact on it, breaker bar, nothing.. Granted I am a skinny little @#$# so I don't have a lot of power backing me up, which the impact should have taken care of.

Q1: Has anyone had this issue before?
Q2: Is there a trick to getting the front sprocket bolt loose?
Q3: How are you? (Optional) haha


Let me know... GO CATS!



That bolt is only suppose to have 3o ft lb at most, and breaks free easily, not sure whats happened to yours
#4

[image: View Post]spud786, on 27 March 2010 - 05:48 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Spydertek, on 27 March 2010 - 01:48 PM, said:

Ok, so today I decided that since my new chain and sprockets were in, I would go ahead and change em out. I helped a buddy of mine that has the same bike as I and he didn't seem to really have any issues. I on the other hand, can't get the d@#$ed front sprocket bolt to break loose. I'm thrown an impact on it, breaker bar, nothing.. Granted I am a skinny little @#$# so I don't have a lot of power backing me up, which the impact should have taken care of.

Q1: Has anyone had this issue before?
Q2: Is there a trick to getting the front sprocket bolt loose?
Q3: How are you? (Optional) haha


Let me know... GO CATS!



That bolt is only suppose to have 3o ft lb at most, and breaks free easily, not sure whats happened to yours



Well I finally got it to break, used a bigger ratchet and finally had enough torque to get it off.. I did notice though that the gear that the sprocket goes over was rusted... which to me can't be good... now I just have to find a master link for the D.I.D. 530 chain... forgot to order it and I don't have a chain riveting tool.
#5
Do you have a cycle gear, they carry, since shops are already closed for the weekend.

You can get a pressed clip master, it reqires some form of light press to get the plat on, but a rivet like side plate takes a very strong press tool to even get the side plate on.

While I stopped running press clip masters, cause I kept losing the clips on the vfr, I've never had the side plate move.

Now may be the time to go ahead and get a functional tool for riveting. and some form of measureing tool, not to press to far.

Back backyard method, uses a mini press tool, about $15 at cycle gear and then a 4lb square and flat mini sledge hammer as an anvil $5 harborfreight, then I use a 16 oz ball peen hammer $4 harbor freight, works great on DID rivets.

other wise its $100 for actual rivet tool like Motion pro
#6

[image: View Post]spud786, on 27 March 2010 - 07:12 PM, said:

Back backyard method, uses a mini press tool, about $15 at cycle gear and then a 4lb square and flat mini sledge hammer as an anvil $5 harborfreight, then I use a 16 oz ball peen hammer $4 harbor freight, works great on DID rivets.

other wise its $100 for actual rivet tool like Motion pro


Forget the clip type, they're garbage. Nothing will make you crap your pants like having your chain fly off or into your motor at highway speed.

Why bother with a press tool when you can use a vice grip? Hammer is not recommended because you're going to work harden the pin material and introduce stress cracks well before you get it to where you need it. Also way to easy to overdo it. Motion Pro tool is about $80 on ebay, buy an extra rivet pin because they have a tendency to snap when you need them most.

Last, but FAR from least, you could just go mail order an EK screw-type link for $8-10. They use a fastener that screws on and the nut/driver part breaks off once the proper torque is reached, which also locks the fastener in place. Meaning the only tool you need for installation is a socket, nut driver, or wrench. In the industry I work in, these fasteners are known as Hi-Loks.

http://www.hi-shear....fastener_hl.htm

IMO, if those are good enough to hold together the airships that carry our troops into combat, then they're good enough for our chains...
End of thread · 7 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 17 Jul 2010