Clip on locking tab

Just wondering what the thoughts are on grinding off the
locking tabs on the clipons to allow rotation forward further than stock?

I've got a spare set of clipons - and have had the tabs ground off to allow me to rotate the clipons more forward than what stock setup allows. My "people" are questioning the safety of not having a locking tab on the clipons. Concern for rotation of the clip on in extreme braking situations.

I think that the Helibars do not have a locking tab at all - can anyone verify this?

The tab can be seen in this crude screen shot from Ronayers.com....

[image: Posted Image]

Let me know what you guys think. I'm trying to rotate the clipon forward just a bit more than stock - to allow more comfort in my wrists.

thanks.

[image: View Post]Kanadian Ken, on 08 April 2010 - 09:32 PM, said:

Just wondering what the thoughts are on grinding off the
locking tabs on the clipons to allow rotation forward further than stock?

I've got a spare set of clipons - and have had the tabs ground off to allow me to rotate the clipons more forward than what stock setup allows. My "people" are questioning the safety of not having a locking tab on the clipons. Concern for rotation of the clip on in extreme braking situations.

I think that the Helibars do not have a locking tab at all - can anyone verify this?

The tab can be seen in this crude screen shot from Ronayers.com....

[image: Posted Image]

Let me know what you guys think. I'm trying to rotate the clipon forward just a bit more than stock - to allow more comfort in my wrists.

thanks.


Uh, my initial thought is that it would compromise safety. No evidence though.

Ken, try making sure your elbows are kept close in to your body and you have some forward lean. Don't know about you, but a lot of peeps have a tendency to ride with elbows out and this leads to discomfort quickly with swept bars. Also, with elbows and arms kept close in, cornering is better executed. My arms and upper body are very loose and relaxed in my best cornering mode. FWIW.

[image: View Post]Kanadian Ken, on 08 April 2010 - 09:32 PM, said:

My "people" are questioning the safety of not having a locking tab on the clipons. Concern for rotation of the clip on in extreme braking situations.

I think that the Helibars do not have a locking tab at all - can anyone verify this?



Stock clip ons will bend enough in a hard fall to dent the tank.

Yup, Heli's and many others including just about every aftermarket clipon on the market don't have locking tabs/pins.

I've run numerous modded clip ons with ground off locking tabs and none have ever loosen up.

I would grind away. The real DANGER you need to think about is grinding on aluminum, the dust can explode. Use a dremel tool with a cutter blade, cut dont grind. I said, ha ha, no way until working on a VW engine stand, ohh case also is a magnesium/aluminum mix btw.....well my makita angle grinder exploded, my leather welding glove caught on fire, I was aok but lets say I moved pretty fast. IMO, many race clip ons have no safety tabs, so If you ride harder on the street than a motoGP rider does then leave the tabs on. I think you could still do a stoppie/endo without the tabs and if there is a collision these would not save you either. Try it, experiment. Someone has to be the guineapig, might as well be you, lol.

THanks guys.

Doug - the tabs are already long gone. No explosions for me!

Bent - I do try to keep the elbows in, good advice - but either I suck in regard to my riding position - or my "husky" body needs more sweep in the setup....

I think I'll go forward and try to mount up these modified clipons.

Keep the ideas coming.... thanks!

One thing I do(and since what one person does , might not suit everyone,etc.)is not to place my hand on the grip like gripping a bat, I adjust the grip angle so my hand lies on it a little more closer toward the position of a golf glub grip. It not only keeps my wrist straight, but any pressure of my hand is more on the heel of my hand(the area below my little finger and below the middle of the palm)where there is more muscle and less nerve(sleeping)pinching..... Just saying it works for me.... And you did ask for more ideas.

While we're on cutting stuff, what's the vote on cutting the location pins on the electric hand switch clusters.... would there be a problem with those later on not holding.... Seems to me on some of my older bikes they'd start moving, which is probably why they started putting the pins on in the 1st place, but they could have improved the screw tightening along the way as well. Has anyone done this, with no adverse conditions?

[image: View Post]Monk, on 08 April 2010 - 11:24 PM, said:

While we're on cutting stuff, what's the vote on cutting the location pins on the electric hand switch clusters.... would there be a problem with those later on not holding....


When I've done the handlebar mod to replace the stock clipons, I experiment for a good long time with the handlebar placement/rotation in the risers before I committ to drilling the locating holes for the switches.

Yup, they will rotate everytime you push on them and the right one keeps the throttle from rotating around the bar when you twist it (kinda important :warranty: ). Also if you don't grind off the locating pins inside the housings, the switche housings won't close completely which looks like poo and will let in moisture/grime.



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[image: View Post]FotoMoto, on 08 April 2010 - 11:34 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Monk, on 08 April 2010 - 11:24 PM, said:

While we're on cutting stuff, what's the vote on cutting the location pins on the electric hand switch clusters.... would there be a problem with those later on not holding....


When I've done the handlebar mod to replace the stock clipons, I experiment for a good long time with the handlebar placement/rotation in the risers before I committ to drilling the locating holes for the switches.

Yup, they will rotate everytime you push on them and the right one keeps the throttle from rotating around the bar when you twist it (kinda important :warranty: ). Also if you don't grind off the locating pins inside the housings, the switche housings won't close completely which looks like poo and will let in moisture/grime.





Good point, Forgot about that throttle being part of it.... I guess the only right way would be to figure out how to drill new holes "where I'd want them to be".... My clutch/brake levers are pretty much ok(as low as they can go).... but the switches are not eco- for my thumbs.... Thanks for the warning/help.... Monk

[image: View Post]Kanadian Ken, on 08 April 2010 - 09:32 PM, said:

Let me know what you guys think. I'm trying to rotate the clipon forward just a bit more than stock - to allow more comfort in my wrists.

thanks.


I wouldn't worry about the tabs missing. Heli-bars don't have them and I've never had a problem. I work in a manufacturing plant and I bet the tabs on the clip-ons are more for the assembly workers then anything. Just to be sure they get them in the same spot every time.

Roadracing clipons don't have locking tabs. They brake pretty hard ;p .

Glenn

[image: View Post]Kanadian Ken, on 08 April 2010 - 09:32 PM, said:

Concern for rotation of the clip on in extreme braking situations.

Let me know if you think about selling the clipons you replace, I need a set..

[image: View Post]Monk, on 08 April 2010 - 11:24 PM, said:

One thing I do(and since what one person does , might not suit everyone,etc.)is not to place my hand on the grip like gripping a bat, I adjust the grip angle so my hand lies on it a little more closer toward the position of a golf glub grip. It not only keeps my wrist straight, but any pressure of my hand is more on the heel of my hand(the area below my little finger and below the middle of the palm)where there is more muscle and less nerve(sleeping)pinching..... Just saying it works for me.... And you did ask for more ideas.

I keep enough room between the grip and the web of my thumb to slip through a pencil. I try to keep zero pressure on the bars and not hold up any of my upper body weight with my hands. That's done with the knees gripping the tank and upper body strength. Keep the elbows up and the only weight you are supporting is the weight of your hands, wrists, and forearms on the underside of your knuckles. The bars should be loose under your grip. Hold them no tighter than you do your thang when you go pee.

Riding in this manner will make the bike much more responsive, easier to turn, and track true in the corners with bumps. Plus when the wind blows you around and moves your chest like a sail you are not putting these movements directly back into the bars. Riding like this in the wind is stable like driving a car with power steering. Wind disappears. It's not moving the BIKE -it's moving your chest and the rider is telegraphing those movements right into the bars when he is gripping them.

Quote

While we're on cutting stuff, what's the vote on cutting the location pins on the electric hand switch clusters.... would there be a problem with those later on not holding.... Seems to me on some of my older bikes they'd start moving, which is probably why they started putting the pins on in the 1st place, but they could have improved the screw tightening along the way as well. Has anyone done this, with no adverse conditions?


I cut the tabs on the controls so they would fit the Helibars I have that didn't come with the positioning holes to put them in. No issues as long as the bars are grease and oil-free when you put the switchgear on.

[image: View Post]Serenity_VFR, on 09 April 2010 - 10:43 AM, said:

I cut the tabs on the controls so they would fit the Helibars I have that didn't come with the positioning holes to put them in. No issues as long as the bars are grease and oil-free when you put the switchgear on.


If your are going to cut off the switch housing tabs, a wrap of duct tape around the bar will give the housing a little more to bite into. Keep it narrow enough not to show. Careful with the screw tightening as you can strip out the housing (BTDT).

The stock clip-ons, I cut mine with a hack saw. and used a file to blend the shape. I gained maybe a 1/2" of movement with that mod. This grade of alum. You can grind all you want, and not have to worry about fires.

On removing the locating pin in the housings. What I found out is some housing will rotate no matter how much tape you put on the bars. And others don't need any tape to hold tight. It depends on the bar thickness. A few thou's will make a diffence between no tape and using alot.

[image: View Post]FotoMoto, on 08 April 2010 - 09:42 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Kanadian Ken, on 08 April 2010 - 09:32 PM, said:

My "people" are questioning the safety of not having a locking tab on the clipons. Concern for rotation of the clip on in extreme braking situations.

I think that the Helibars do not have a locking tab at all - can anyone verify this?



Stock clip ons will bend enough in a hard fall to dent the tank.

Yup, Heli's and many others including just about every aftermarket clipon on the market don't have locking tabs/pins.

I've run numerous modded clip ons with ground off locking tabs and none have ever loosen up.


Just too add stock clipons are the strongest BOlt Mounting double big bolt. They are far stronger than heli bar mounts with the now single hex bolt and no tang. Get the picture

Set your fork height to 49 mm and there's enogh clearance to raise clipons up to the retaining rings. Course I run a taller seat and works great comfort wise moving them foward.

But yeh you can grind the tangs off without doing that.