Want to start doing my own changes.

Well, the cheapest shop around here to change a tire is $40 per wheel, off the bike. Being extremely cheap, I want to start changing my tires as cheaply as possible without making it a hard job or scratching my rims.

I've done a lot of reading on this site and have basically decided that I want to go with a HF tire changer, add Mojo blocks (to keep from scratching my rim) http://home.comcast..../mojoblocks.htm

Now, the questions:

1. Should I get a mojo lever or a No-mar lever?

2. Is it necessary to get both the Harbor Freight motorcycle attachment and the tire changer? Can I just mount the motorcycle attachment to a stand? (It's difficult to see what is what in the pictures).

3. Would just mounting some rubber pieces work just as well as Mojoblocks? Would this have the added benefit of keeping the rim from spinning?

4. Do the mojoblocks require adding threading the HF tire changer or do they use a nut and a bolt?

Thanks!

I just use rim savers and elbow grease.
Much cheaper.

Mac

Now, the questions:

1. Should I get a mojo lever or a No-mar lever?

Probably save on shipping getting the mojo lever along with the blocks. I had the no-mar already before I got the blocks. I've seen no overwhelming strong opinion of one over the other so I'd say go with the cheaper unit. My no-mar came with extra tips; dunno if the mojo does. I figured getting future replacement parts would be a safer bet from no-mar but that's a guess.


2. Is it necessary to get both the Harbor Freight motorcycle attachment and the tire changer? Can I just mount the motorcycle attachment to a stand? (It's difficult to see what is what in the pictures).

The cycle unit attaches to the bottom bead breaker unit. Unless you have an alternative, preferred method to bead breaking you'll want the bottom unit too.
:warranty:

3. Would just mounting some rubber pieces work just as well as Mojoblocks? Would this have the added benefit of keeping the rim from spinning?

Tried that but the rubber eventually breaks down since it is pressed/stressed by metal on both sides (clamps and rim).


4. Do the mojoblocks require adding threading the HF tire changer or do they use a nut and a bolt?

Yes, you have to drill mounting holes into the HF cycle unit clamps to bolt them down.

My setup: mojo blocks, no-mar bar, HF cycle top/car bottom bolted to a portable pallet.

http://www.vfrdiscus..._1

I'd also strongly suggest the "yellow thing" or equivalent (wood blocks) for helping hold down the bead when/if you do this by yourself.

http://www.vfrdiscus..._1&#entry572769[/url]

I'd also strongly suggest the "yellow thing" or equivalent (wood blocks) for helping hold down the bead when/if you do this by yourself.

Thanks for the reply! The post you linked to was one of the ones I read through very carefully, and where I got a lot of help from.

What is this yellow thing?

The HF changer has the bead breaker part. Worth getting the whole deal, imo.

Mine is HF changer, motor cycle adapter, Mojo Blocks with some inner tube material for grip, and the Mojo Lever.

I got a grip clamp thingy recently to compress the tire to keep the bead in the center. Mine is too small. Wasn't thinking real clearly when I picked it out.
The Mojo Blocks come with nuts and bolts. Only need to drill a hole for each one.

http://www.vfrdiscus..._1&#entry572769[/url]

I'd also strongly suggest the "yellow thing" or equivalent (wood blocks) for helping hold down the bead when/if you do this by yourself.

Yellow Thing:
[image: Posted Image]


Thanks for the reply! The post you linked to was one of the ones I read through very carefully, and where I got a lot of help from.

What is this yellow thing?

[image: Posted Image]


Thanks for the reply! The post you linked to was one of the ones I read through very carefully, and where I got a lot of help from.

What is this yellow thing?

Well what do you know, a google search for "yellow thing" actually brought me right to the no-mar site.

Thanks guys, I'll get both HF changers, the mojoblocks, the mojolever, and some dynabeads (for now, at least). If I find the bead is slipping a lot I'll consider a yellow thing then.

It seems the only advantage to the nomar lever over the mojo lever is that it comes with extra tips, and since the mojo lever is $10 less, I can just order from one place.

Thanks again!

The bead will slip.
I have no experience with the yellow thing.

a strap of leather and a small c-clamp will work instead of the 'yellow thing'.

The bead will slip.
I have no experience with the yellow thing.

Oh, what do you use to keep it from slipping?

Forgive my ignorance, but I haven't ever done this, just read about it on here and watched Youtube videos, so are you talking about the tire turning while the wheel stays in place or the bead popping back up over the lip?

The tire will 'walk', meaning that the bead will pop off and follow the mount bar.

The bead will slip.
I have no experience with the yellow thing.

Oh, what do you use to keep it from slipping?

Forgive my ignorance, but I haven't ever done this, just read about it on here and watched Youtube videos, so are you talking about the tire turning while the wheel stays in place or the bead popping back up over the lip?

So far I've used a ratcheting tie down. Others have used a clamp, and I bought one to use, but was too small for a rear tire.
The bead will pop back over the rim, and cause you to chase it around the tire.

So far I've used a ratcheting tie down. Others have used a clamp, and I bought one to use, but was too small for a rear tire.
The bead will pop back over the rim, and cause you to chase it around the tire.

Gotcha. The mojolever destructions say

"On rare occasions when mounting a tire, the portion of mounted bead that is far from the Mojolever will unmount itself as fast as you move the Mojolever so that you end up �chasing� it around the rim. Keeping one hand on this area while moving the Mojolever (with the other hand) is generally sufficient to prevent this; if not, a small block of wood inserted between the mounted bead and the rim lip usually works."

So far I've used a ratcheting tie down. Others have used a clamp, and I bought one to use, but was too small for a rear tire.
The bead will pop back over the rim, and cause you to chase it around the tire.

Gotcha. The mojolever destructions say

"On rare occasions when mounting a tire, the portion of mounted bead that is far from the Mojolever will unmount itself as fast as you move the Mojolever so that you end up �chasing� it around the rim. Keeping one hand on this area while moving the Mojolever (with the other hand) is generally sufficient to prevent this; if not, a small block of wood inserted between the mounted bead and the rim lip usually works."

If it was that easy, then why did they invent the yellow thing? http://www.vfrdiscus...tyle_emoticons/default/smile.gif The bead will walk, and holding it with one hand isn't as easy as they make it sound. Some sort of clamping device will be needed.

If it was that easy, then why did they invent the yellow thing? http://www.vfrdiscus...tyle_emoticons/default/smile.gif The bead will walk, and holding it with one hand isn't as easy as they make it sound. Some sort of clamping device will be needed.

I use a couple of these to squeeze the tire in to the well and keep it from walking. Also use a couple Motion Pro tire levers, no bar, with the HF set up.

[image: Posted Image]

If it was that easy, then why did they invent the yellow thing? http://www.vfrdiscus...tyle_emoticons/default/smile.gif The bead will walk, and holding it with one hand isn't as easy as they make it sound. Some sort of clamping device will be needed.

I use a couple of these to squeeze the tire in to the well and keep it from walking. Also use a couple Motion Pro tire levers, no bar, with the HF set up.

[image: Posted Image]

That'll work fine!

I've got the same set up: HF changer, mojo blocks, no-mar bar. I also invested in the HF tire balancer. Very easy to use and works GREAT! I also bought some of the sick-on wheel weights at HF--they come in both silver and black colors.

I've got the same set up: HF changer, mojo blocks, no-mar bar. I also invested in the HF tire balancer. Very easy to use and works GREAT! I also bought some of the sick-on wheel weights at HF--they come in both silver and black colors.

I also just got the HF balancer for about $30 on sale, much easier than the homemade setup I had. And btw, lead weight now illegal in California. Tough to find the steel weights in shops in some places.

[image: Posted Image]

Yellow thing? I think my wood clips will work, they are like clothes line clips on steroids and they have orange plastic on the edges to stop the rim from scratching.

And btw, lead weight now illegal in California. Tough to find the steel weights in shops in some places.

Oh Geez are you kidding me? Please sombody save California from it Legistlature, pretty soon it will be illegal to ride a motorcycle too. What are kids walking along the highway picking up tossed off lead weights and eating them in California or somthing? So do Lead wieghts pose a hazard to tire workers? Why do they need a law against lead wheel wieghts? Mag wheels next, sombody might drive around on a flat tire and scrape the rims till they catch fire!

I wish California was like Las Vegas, but its laws dont stay there, they come here! The Californication of Colorado is real.

And btw, lead weight now illegal in California. Tough to find the steel weights in shops in some places.

Oh Geez are you kidding me? Please sombody save California from it Legistlature, pretty soon it will be illegal to ride a motorcycle too. What are kids walking along the highway picking up tossed off lead weights and eating them in California or somthing? So do Lead wieghts pose a hazard to tire workers? Why do they need a law against lead wheel wieghts? Mag wheels next, sombody might drive around on a flat tire and scrape the rims till they catch fire!

I wish California was like Las Vegas, but its laws dont stay there, they come here! The Californication of Colorado is real.

The EU banned them a few years ago and the auto mfgs. also stopped using them I believe. Wouldn't be surprised if Canada already bans them.

They fall off, get ground down and end up in the drinking water or rivers. http://www.epa.gov/w...emin/nlfwwi.htm

[quote name='HispanicSlammer' date='19 April 2010 - 11:41 PM' timestamp='1271738488' post='700314']
[quote name='vfrcapn' date='19 April 2010 - 08:21 PM' timestamp='1271730097' post='700278']
And btw, lead weight now illegal in California. Tough to find the steel weights in shops in some places.
[/quote]

Oh Geez are you kidding me? Please sombody save California from it Legistlature, pretty soon it will be illegal to ride a motorcycle too. What are kids walking along the highway picking up tossed off lead weights and eating them in California or somthing? So do Lead wieghts pose a hazard to tire workers? Why do they need a law against lead wheel wieghts? Mag wheels next, sombody might drive around on a flat tire and scrape the rims till they catch fire!

I wish California was like Las Vegas, but its laws dont stay there, they come here! The Californication of Colorado is real.

And I thought New York State was bad! Keep that stuff on the West Coast!!!

Back to OP question:
2 more things to consider:
1. The mojo blocks are a slippery plastic (delrin?) and it is difficult or impossible to clamp the HF clamps down tight enough to prevent the wheel from turning in the blocks. Some sort of anti-rotation device is needed, like a stick between the spokes, etc.

2. One of the most important things to make mounting easier is good lube. Watch the mo-mar videos and pay attention to what they use and where they put it. Some say soap and water works, but not in my experience. Whatever that paste stuff no-mar has looks to be the ticket. Anyone know what it is?
Autozone or Napa sell some sort of tire lube I think.

Back to OP question:
2 more things to consider:

1) Use a long box end wrench or cheater pipe on that way too short HF clamping lever. No problems with front wheels but I'll still occasionally get some slippage on back wheels with 190 tires. When that happens I just hold onto a spoke with my left hand and work the no-mar bar with my right; however, this and other suggestions in recent threads have me inclined to trying some old inner tube pieces on the blocks next time.

2) IIRC they say it's vegetable based. I bought a couple of jars of it when I ordered their bar. Should last me years if it doesn't break down/deteriorate.

I recently trusted my setup to change out a rear 190 tire on a FORGED Marchesini wheel (over $2k a set!) without a scratch. WHEW! :tour:

2. One of the most important things to make mounting easier is good lube. Watch the mo-mar videos and pay attention to what they use and where they put it. Some say soap and water works, but not in my experience. Whatever that paste stuff no-mar has looks to be the ticket. Anyone know what it is?
Autozone or Napa sell some sort of tire lube I think.

This works for me. :tour:

[image: Posted Image]

[image: Posted Image]
[/quote]


Straight out of the bottle or diluted?

[quote name='coopduc' date='20 April 2010 - 01:06 PM' timestamp='1271793987' post='700478']
[image: Posted Image]
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Straight out of the bottle or diluted?
[/quote]
Straight up. It's very slick but dries quick enough & wipes off easily.

I've got the same set up: HF changer, mojo blocks, no-mar bar. I also invested in the HF tire balancer. Very easy to use and works GREAT! I also bought some of the sick-on wheel weights at HF--they come in both silver and black colors.

Do you use the balancer only on the front. I didn't see an adapter on their site for the rear wheel.