How the fast idle wax unit works

Here's the 5th gen.

Is there any way to service this?

Yes replace ! :)

Or eliminate it and use a cable operated fast idle lever like on the '98-'99 bikes.

Connect the two coolant hoses together, toss the wax unit in the garbage, and figure out how to rig up a cable to the starter valves.

Anybody know what is the operating temperature of the auto wax unit?I have never seen any fast idling on my VFR since the day I bought it.It always cold idle around 950 rpm and hot 1200rpm.Not that I am in need of fast idling but just wonder if is due my climate with averaging of 28 deg Celsius?

In my experience the idle drops when the bike's instrument panel starts to register a temperature. Which means around 36ºC. Below this temperature my VTEC's screen displays two hyphens. As soon as 36ºC pops up, the idle drops to the regular rpm I have my idle set to.

Lately my bike is NOT activating the fast idle as it should (temps are cold enough). SOMETIMES IT DOES AND SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T. The only thing I've done to the bike lately was to synch the starter valves and I wish I hadn't, even though it was idling rough and had a lumpy response to subtle on-off-the-gas throttle inputs... 'cause since I did, the bike started backfiring and then when I resynched (had gone too far with the front left adjuster), the fast idle stopped working.

The only thing I've managed to find is the rod that connects front row to rear row was slightly bent. Oh yeah, and now my idle adjuster doesn't want to be turned.

:491: :491: :491: :491: :491: :491:

Bloody VTECs... someone should blow VTECs up!!

BTW Kal... no wax in that unit... it is apparently some sort of layered sandwich of unusual sounding metals that undergo some sort of change in shape or properties at different temps... read about some guy who took his apart with the idea of cleaning it and found there was no sight of wax... and on investigating he said that at some stage in the past, wax was used in such devices

No wax huh? Well whaddya know. They must just call it that for historical purposes.

Bimetal spring... the spring contracts and relaxes according to temp... pulling on the starter valves to allow more or less air into the mixture just as a choke would.

Does anyone happen to know the part number (or numbers) of what needs to be replaced if I were to replace my wax unit on my 2000? I looked at the Bike Bandit diagram and it shows a couple different part numbers referring to wax unit. If anyone happens to know what I need to order, I'd appreciate it. I don't want to get into "cleaning" my old wax unit, find out it is toast and not have a new one handy.

Thanks.

Lobster

Does anyone happen to know the part number (or numbers) of what needs to be replaced if I were to replace my wax unit on my 2000? I looked at the Bike Bandit diagram and it shows a couple different part numbers referring to wax unit. If anyone happens to know what I need to order, I'd appreciate it. I don't want to get into "cleaning" my old wax unit, find out it is toast and not have a new one handy.

Thanks.

I was looking at the throttle body assm. on PowersportsCompany's fich

#18 is the 'wax element set' pn# 16044-MAT-E01 (discount price $16.81)

#19 is the "stay' pn# 16169-MGB-D01 ($9.34)

#20 is the 'wax case set' pn# 16502-MAT-E01 ($30.01)

I would call a parts guy and ask whether 'case set' includes the 'wax element set'. That is not clear to me either. I do not know if the stay would need replacing.

Good luck Larry

You want this: 16044-MAT-E01

[image: HP-16044-MAT-E01.gif]

Looks good .

ordered...thanks!

Been noticing of late during our winter that cold starting fast idle wasn't working too well on my 2009 VFR. I would need to hold the throttle slightly open for a short period with engine running then the fast idle would kick in, otherwise the engine would just about stall.

The fix - Just needed to make a slight CW turn of the small locknut ( the white paint marked, not supposed to adjust nut!!!) at the top of the Fast Idle Wax Unit shaft. It was fairly obvious that in the fully cold state the mechanism was not extending the starter valves enough. My first adjustment made the cold idle shoot up to 3000rpm so another slight adjustment CCW and now its runs up nicely to 2000rpm and is back to normal idle 1200rpm by approx 50degC.

Regards.

Grum.

Thanks Grum...

It's not Winter by any means at the mo here in southern Spain (40-50ºC). But my VTEC is not idling right...

I synched the valves a couple of months ago but must have done something wrong... it gets worse the more I use the bike... wierd... or is that weird?

Why don't you ride up to the Netherlands, it will be only 33C here today.... :goofy:

306.1 Kevin ?

Here's a great site for you Euro's .

http://www.vsource.org/

Auspanglish

BTW Kal... no wax in that unit... it is apparently some sort of layered sandwich of unusual sounding metals that undergo some sort of change in shape or properties at different temps... read about some guy who took his apart with the idea of cleaning it and found there was no sight of wax... and on investigating he said that at some stage in the past, wax was used in such devices

Old thread, but Kaldek's videos have been very helpful for me. Kaldek, I owe you a beer or three. Here's a photo of the internals for reference...I took mine apart (sixth gen) last night to see if it needed servicing, but I honestly can't see how this unit would ever fail. It's just a spring and some metal bits. Mine looked brand new inside.

Now, that said, the coolant passage was almost completely plugged on mine and wasn't allowing the unit to heat up properly:

Before:

Now to go buy some circlip pliers so I can get the bloody thing back together...