VFRDiscussion ARCHIVE / READ-ONLYREAD-ONLY

FD Oil change.

31 posts Started 18 May 2010 Last recovered post 10 Jul 2010 Wayback Machine snapshot 21 Jul 2010

#1
I don't want to turn this into a BMW forum - however i decided to change the FD oil out. Bike has done about 800 miles. It's a breeze to do. Remove the FD shroud by removing the 3 5mm allen heads at the front, side and underside. The shroud then lifts on a "hinged" section allowing access to the rear plastic pin. These are a new design (to me). Different to the old type, with their center section that had to be pushed in prior to removal. Best way to get this out is to push the inside of the pin out (towards the exhaust). Once the shroud is off the filler and drain are easy to access. Drain is a 6mm allen head screw on the lowest point of the FD. Filler is a 17mm cap at the 3 o'clock point.

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#2
Remove upper cap, find suitable receptacle, remove lower drain and allow to drain. My oil came out a graphite grey colour with no visible contamination. I flushed the old oil out with GL5 80 - 90 gear oil. Guess which is the old stuff?

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#3
Oil was refilled using a syringe. Very handy.

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#4
Refit cap and shroud. Torque settings are in the owners manual. That's it. Dead easy.
#5
i see the pics so that helps me know what you did, but for the life of me, i cant figure out what "FD" means.
#6
One of the advantages of having shaft drive :fing02: After the first oil change, what is the service interval?

[image: View Post]turtlecreek, on 18 May 2010 - 05:00 PM, said:

i cant figure out what "FD" means.Final Drive
#7

[image: View Post]V4 Rosso, on 18 May 2010 - 10:17 AM, said:

One of the advantages of having shaft drive :fing02: After the first oil change, what is the service interval?

[image: View Post]turtlecreek, on 18 May 2010 - 05:00 PM, said:

i cant figure out what "FD" means.Final Drive


aaahhhhh! TY....shaft drive noob!
#8
When I was rding my Yamaha it has a shaft final drive...I changed the oil every time i changed my motor oil. I mean it only took 30 damn seconds extra to keep it fresh....The manual says replace like every 8,000-10,000 miles, I did it every 3,000-2,500 it came out almost just as clean as it went in.

What is it about manuals? My Interceptor manual shows replace motor oil and filter every 8,000 miles...WTF? No way....
#9
The VFR owners manual says every 2 years. Wouldn't risk any gear oil that long..
#10

[image: View Post]paul thompson, on 18 May 2010 - 11:58 AM, said:

The VFR owners manual says every 2 years. Wouldn't risk any gear oil that long..


How much oil did you refill it with? Is there a way to see the oil level?
#11

[image: View Post]paul thompson, on 18 May 2010 - 07:24 AM, said:

Remove upper cap, find suitable receptacle, remove lower drain and allow to drain. My oil came out a graphite grey colour with no visible contamination. I flushed the old oil out with GL5 80 - 90 gear oil. Guess which is the old stuff?


So, the old oil is on the right and the left is an amber beer for when the job's finished, right? :beer:
#12

[image: View Post]PolarBear, on 18 May 2010 - 01:27 PM, said:

[image: View Post]paul thompson, on 18 May 2010 - 07:24 AM, said:

Remove upper cap, find suitable receptacle, remove lower drain and allow to drain. My oil came out a graphite grey colour with no visible contamination. I flushed the old oil out with GL5 80 - 90 gear oil. Guess which is the old stuff?


So, the old oil is on the right and the left is an amber beer for when the job's finished, right? :beer:



:laughing6-hehe: :laughing6-hehe: The clean fluid does look like a rather tasty beer!

mmmmm My Peach Wheat Ale homebrew is finished conditioning today.... :cheerleader: :cheerleader:
#13

[image: View Post]whitecl0ver, on 18 May 2010 - 09:52 AM, said:

What is it about manuals? My Interceptor manual shows replace motor oil and filter every 8,000 miles...WTF? No way....


Yeah, I mean, what is it with these arrogant manufacturers thinking that just because they engineered the thing, they know what's best for it??? The nerve! :goofy:

:beatdeadhorse:

Oh, and to at least acknowledge the topic:

Thanks for the pics, Paul - that looks pretty cool. Much easier than chain-scrubbing and lubing! :fing02:
#14

[image: View Post]carlitos92, on 18 May 2010 - 01:44 PM, said:

[image: View Post]whitecl0ver, on 18 May 2010 - 09:52 AM, said:

What is it about manuals? My Interceptor manual shows replace motor oil and filter every 8,000 miles...WTF? No way....


Yeah, I mean, what is it with these arrogant manufacturers thinking that just because they engineered the thing, they know what's best for it??? The nerve! :goofy:

:beatdeadhorse:

Oh, and to at least acknowledge the topic:

Thanks for the pics, Paul - that looks pretty cool. Much easier than chain-scrubbing and lubing! :fing02:



I agree with you to an extent, but.....Would it be to far fetched to think maybe they purposely give you incorrect information to eventually lead to premature failure which would cause you to have to purchase sooner then would be needed with more regular maintenance?
#15

[image: View Post]carlitos92, on 18 May 2010 - 01:44 PM, said:

[image: View Post]whitecl0ver, on 18 May 2010 - 09:52 AM, said:

What is it about manuals? My Interceptor manual shows replace motor oil and filter every 8,000 miles...WTF? No way....


Yeah, I mean, what is it with these arrogant manufacturers thinking that just because they engineered the thing, they know what's best for it??? The nerve! :goofy:

:beatdeadhorse:

Oh, and to at least acknowledge the topic:

Thanks for the pics, Paul - that looks pretty cool. Much easier than chain-scrubbing and lubing! :fing02:


I personally don't think it's that difficult to clean and lube the chain every 600-800 miles. Takes about 5 minutes and my 22k mile chain looks and performs well. Kerosene on a shop rag to clean, followed by Dupon teflon lube. Simple.
#16
There's a word for that... oh, words... planned obsolescence!

[image: View Post]whitecl0ver, on 18 May 2010 - 12:53 PM, said:

[image: View Post]carlitos92, on 18 May 2010 - 01:44 PM, said:

[image: View Post]whitecl0ver, on 18 May 2010 - 09:52 AM, said:

What is it about manuals? My Interceptor manual shows replace motor oil and filter every 8,000 miles...WTF? No way....


Yeah, I mean, what is it with these arrogant manufacturers thinking that just because they engineered the thing, they know what's best for it??? The nerve! :goofy:

:beatdeadhorse:

Oh, and to at least acknowledge the topic:

Thanks for the pics, Paul - that looks pretty cool. Much easier than chain-scrubbing and lubing! :fing02:



I agree with you to an extent, but.....Would it be to far fetched to think maybe they purposely give you incorrect information to eventually lead to premature failure which would cause you to have to purchase sooner then would be needed with more regular maintenance?

#17
Chains. Peh..
I fancied changing the oil as a few of the shaft drive bikes i have had have had the same treatment, and none have suffered any failure. 20 mins of work and 200ml of oil is not a great deal of hassle.
#18

[image: View Post]whitecl0ver, on 18 May 2010 - 11:53 AM, said:

I agree with you to an extent, but.....Would it be to far fetched to think maybe they purposely give you incorrect information to eventually lead to premature failure which would cause you to have to purchase sooner then would be needed with more regular maintenance?



Not far-fetched, just really f'ing stupid.

Why would you repurchase something that failed?

The truth is, the marketers want to be able to advertise a long service interval as a competitive advantage.

My VFR1200 advertises a service interval of 8000 miles but there is no way in hell I would let it go that long. I'll change it twice a year even if I only ride 2000 miles because I am the type of person who enjoys maintaining my stuff.

If I were a guy that didn't own a wrench and took my bike to the dealer for service I might be discouraged from buying if they told me I had to bring it in for a $150 service every 3000 miles. If motorcycle manufacturers want to grow and profit in North America, they need to bring new riders into the sport... guys that might not be like you and me and don't do their own maintenance.
#19
BTW thanks for the post P.T.

Recommended interval is 24000 miles. I'm starting to think I might change mine out just for the hell of it. I've got about 800 miles as well.

I have noticed that the FD gets very hot...
#20
Just changed mine after 1000KM (600Miles) service, the technician at Honda said there is no need to change it. After I got home from the dealer with the 1K service, changed it myself, didn't want to wait 24 months which is the recommendation in the owners manual.

? for anyone who has performed this service

Owners manual states put in 200ML (6.8 ounces), but when I drained it 235ML (8 ounces) of the factory filled fluid came out.
When i refilled it with 200ML it didn't reach the bottom of the fill hole, which was also stated in the manual. The reason I'm asking is that on my last bike (GTR1400) I put in the specified amount, which ended up being over filled and it leaked out of the seals.

Will having a little less fluid in the final drive do any long term damage, or should I put more in till it reaches the bottom of the fill hole

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#21
Double click on the previous image to see the metal flakes, didn't notice it myself until I posted on this forum.
#22

[image: View Post]Dae, on 12 June 2010 - 08:05 AM, said:

Double click on the previous image to see the metal flakes, didn't notice it myself until I posted on this forum.


There's nothing you can determine from the this very blurry image, certainly not the state of the oil. Hypoid gear oil will always have metal particles.
#23
Tamworth

Did you double click on the image &scroll down on the image? If you scroll down, the image is good enough to see the metal flakes and isn't blurry. Honda Motors states that one should change the motor oil at 1000KM (600 miles) but the final drive oil doesn't need to be changed until 24 months. After seeing all the metal flakes after 1K, it's peace of mind to change it.
#24

[image: View Post]Dae, on 12 June 2010 - 08:53 AM, said:

Tamworth

Did you double click on the image &scroll down on the image? If you scroll down, the image is good enough to see the metal flakes and isn't blurry. Honda Motors states that one should change the motor oil at 1000KM (600 miles) but the final drive oil doesn't need to be changed until 24 months. After seeing all the metal flakes after 1K, it's peace of mind to change it.


You will notice that all the tiny metal particles are hook shaped indicating movement of the camera during the exposure. Your flash will also highlite any particles. These are not "flakes" they are particles. My point is that these particles are normal for a final drive. Sure, it's a good idea to change the oil, but every time you do you will see these particles. They are not something to worry about and it does not indicate any sort of problem.
#25
This topic is encouraging me to change the FD oil on my Pacific Coast. I've had it two years, and no telling when or if it was ever done previously.
Mine also says to fill to the bottom of the fill hole, but I didn't see any amounts specified...
#26
Be aware that many extreme pressure lubricants will have metal particles (usually a soft bronze or possibly copper) in them. While the particles would not be readily apparent to the naked eye, I suspect a camera flash would make them show up in a photo. (this is why EP lubricants should be aggitated before being put in the gearbox... the additive package will settle out over time.)

Also this brings up a personal beef of mine: The appearance of the lubricant is nearly useless in determining the protective value of the lubricant.

Personally, I wouldn't get too wound up from what I'm seeing in that photo.
#27
I think I will change out mine as well, I mean gear oil is not that expensive and I have the time and the tools, seems strait forward. alot easier than replacing a chain and sprockets!
#28

[image: View Post]HispanicSlammer, on 27 June 2010 - 05:48 AM, said:

I think I will change out mine as well, I mean gear oil is not that expensive and I have the time and the tools, seems strait forward. alot easier than replacing a chain and sprockets!


Be sure to not over tighten the drain bolt. A short allen key shouldn't be a problem but a hex socket on a ratchet could easily strip it out. Of course a torque wrench is always best
#29

[image: View Post]HispanicSlammer, on 27 June 2010 - 05:48 AM, said:

I think I will change out mine as well, I mean gear oil is not that expensive and I have the time and the tools, seems strait forward. alot easier than replacing a chain and sprockets!

Yeah, I just did my PC800. $5.29 invested, and maybe 20 minutes including the ride to the parts store for the oil! :fing02:
#30

[image: View Post]Dae, on 12 June 2010 - 02:58 AM, said:

Just changed mine after 1000KM (600Miles) service, the technician at Honda said there is no need to change it. After I got home from the dealer with the 1K service, changed it myself, didn't want to wait 24 months which is the recommendation in the owners manual.

? for anyone who has performed this service

Owners manual states put in 200ML (6.8 ounces), but when I drained it 235ML (8 ounces) of the factory filled fluid came out.
When i refilled it with 200ML it didn't reach the bottom of the fill hole, which was also stated in the manual. The reason I'm asking is that on my last bike (GTR1400) I put in the specified amount, which ended up being over filled and it leaked out of the seals.

Will having a little less fluid in the final drive do any long term damage, or should I put more in till it reaches the bottom of the fill hole


Did you have it on a center stand by any chance? Manual says it should be on the side stand. If it were upright it would take more to reach the bottom of the fill hole.
Personally, I would fill it to the edge of the opening, even if it took a tiny bit more than the spec says.

I was suprised to see that there wasn't a FD oil change included in the 600 mi service... we always did that along with the first oil change in the shop where I used to work. Even though Honda says it may not be needed, I plan on doing it just to make sure there aren't any gremlins in there from the factory, then go to the 8k interval.
#31

[image: View Post]horwitzs, on 09 July 2010 - 11:05 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Dae, on 12 June 2010 - 02:58 AM, said:

Just changed mine after 1000KM (600Miles) service, the technician at Honda said there is no need to change it. After I got home from the dealer with the 1K service, changed it myself, didn't want to wait 24 months which is the recommendation in the owners manual.

? for anyone who has performed this service

Owners manual states put in 200ML (6.8 ounces), but when I drained it 235ML (8 ounces) of the factory filled fluid came out.
When i refilled it with 200ML it didn't reach the bottom of the fill hole, which was also stated in the manual. The reason I'm asking is that on my last bike (GTR1400) I put in the specified amount, which ended up being over filled and it leaked out of the seals.

Will having a little less fluid in the final drive do any long term damage, or should I put more in till it reaches the bottom of the fill hole


Did you have it on a center stand by any chance? Manual says it should be on the side stand. If it were upright it would take more to reach the bottom of the fill hole.
Personally, I would fill it to the edge of the opening, even if it took a tiny bit more than the spec says.

I was suprised to see that there wasn't a FD oil change included in the 600 mi service... we always did that along with the first oil change in the shop where I used to work. Even though Honda says it may not be needed, I plan on doing it just to make sure there aren't any gremlins in there from the factory, then go to the 8k interval.


When i drained mine, it took the whole 8oz bottle of honda drive shaft oil to get it to the line.
End of thread · 31 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 21 Jul 2010