Steering Head Bearings - Secret to Installing the Lower Race?

All right you maintenance geniuses, I have a question (and I Searched, but found nothing specific to help).

I'm replacing my steering head bearings ('04 VTEC) with All Balls tapered bearings (per HS's guide). I drove out the upper and lower races, then hammered in the new upper race.

Now, the lower one is kicking my @$%. I have a bearing driver set I borrowed from Autozone, and put my races in the freezer beforehand (although I think the lower had warmed significantly by the time I got done monkeying with the upper). Between the awkward position for hammering and the driver not being a perfect fit for the race, I keep cocking the race, then can't get it straight without knocking it back out and trying again. It may be that I was tired and frustrated by the time I got to the lower, or that my hammer is too small and I need a BFH instead.

On the other hand, the factory service manual shows a crazy six-piece bearing installation set that presses the races in. Has anybody tried to borrow that from the dealer? Or is there a trick to hammering in the race while hanging upside down on a moonless night with the bike balanced on a jack and my left big toe crossed with the one next to it?!?

Any advice would be appreciated. I intend to retreat for the night, and re-engage with renewed vigor tomorrow afternoon following work.

Lacy

That's really it. Seb showed me a 'technique' to hammering the lower in. There really is no easy way, just an easier way. Lay on your back, use your left hand to hold the racing in place, and use your right hand for the hammer, holding it really short. Just a couple light taps all around until it gets started.

It's a pain no matter what. Took me forever to get the lower one in, and Seb actually finished it off, as I couldn't seem to get it to go in the last few mm's.

I had a hell of a time putting the races on the steering stem on my 95. Try as I might but I could only get it on halfway. I should have known better when it took over 2 hours to get the old one off. I finally took it to a dealer and they pressed it on (using a hydraulic press) in no time. Think they charged me 15 bucks.

It's much easier to do the job with the front cowl/headlights off, but it's very possible to do it with it on.

Get the new race started in there w/ a few criss-cross taps from a medium-sized hammer(I usually tap it until it's flush w/ the frame), then use the old race and the hammer to get it the rest of the way in. You'll hear the difference in sound when you've bottomed it out.

Are you using new OEM bearings, or All Balls tapered bearings?

The All Balls tapered rollers are a bit taller than the OEM races, so they will appear to have a gap around them even after they're fully seated in the frame, and also, you will want to raise your forks in the triple trees by a few mm to make up the difference(added bearing height increases front ride height & chassis attitude). One of these days I'll measure the difference and actually write it down somewhere... IIRC, it's right around 2mm.

I used the same procedure as Seb had described and didn't have an issue.

BFH need not apply. Just be patient starting the race in. Remember that it goes into aluminum, so BFH will screw the frame up if not careful.

Take your time to align the race and use really light cris-cross taps to get it started.

Thanks guys, that was what I was looking for. I'll try using the old race as a driver tonight.

Seb, I'm installing All Balls bearings, so thanks for the note on the height difference. Although, the stock forks aren't going back in, so changes will occur in fork height (along with some other variables). :warranty:

Lacy

Good luck! Post up if you have more problems... I'll try and see if I have a complete set of lower bearings around to measure later today. ( I always save the old races to use as tools...)

Rice

Take your time to align the race and use really light cris-cross taps to get it started.

Yes, exactly right. And I used a long drift-pin to make it easier to get to the race area AND to allow precise locations for the criss-cross tap-tapping. :biggrin:

SEBSPEED

The All Balls tapered rollers are a bit taller than the OEM races, so they will appear to have a gap around them even after they're fully seated in the frame, and also, you will want to raise your forks in the triple trees by a few mm to make up the difference(added bearing height increases front ride height & chassis attitude). One of these days I'll measure the difference and actually write it down somewhere... IIRC, it's right around 2mm.

Do the All Balls bearings come with custom dust seals too?

V4 Rosso

SEBSPEED

The All Balls tapered rollers are a bit taller than the OEM races, so they will appear to have a gap around them even after they're fully seated in the frame, and also, you will want to raise your forks in the triple trees by a few mm to make up the difference(added bearing height increases front ride height & chassis attitude). One of these days I'll measure the difference and actually write it down somewhere... IIRC, it's right around 2mm.

Do the All Balls bearings come with custom dust seals too?

I wouldn't call them custom, as they look very much like the OEM parts, but yes, the All Balls bearing kit comes with both bearings and both seals. And some cool stickers... and the package they come in makes for handy storage containers... win/win/win! :biggrin:

One "trick" I've used is to grind the outer diameter of the removed race such that it will just fit into the head without interference. I use it, upside down, to set the new bearing race as it will have full circumference contact with the new race and a large surface area on which to whack with a hammer. And you don't care it it gets dinged.

03vfrrider

One "trick" I've used is to grind the outer diameter of the removed race such that it will just fit into the head without interference. I use it, upside down, to set the new bearing race as it will have full circumference contact with the new race and a large surface area on which to whack with a hammer. And you don't care it it gets dinged.

Just a note - no grinding needed if replacing with tapered roller races. As I mentioned earlier, the races are taller and the old race won't go far enough into the frame, to get "stuck" in the frame.

Alternatively, when installing ball bearing races, you can cut the old race(just one slice) to allow it to compress and release easily. (kind of make it a "C", but with a very small gap)

SEBSPEED

03vfrrider

One "trick" I've used is to grind the outer diameter of the removed race such that it will just fit into the head without interference. I use it, upside down, to set the new bearing race as it will have full circumference contact with the new race and a large surface area on which to whack with a hammer. And you don't care it it gets dinged.

Just a note - no grinding needed if replacing with tapered roller races. As I mentioned earlier, the races are taller and the old race won't go far enough into the frame, to get "stuck" in the frame.

Alternatively, when installing ball bearing races, you can cut the old race(just one slice) to allow it to compress and release easily. (kind of make it a "C", but with a very small gap)

You can press them in using a crude press made from threaded rod, a couple nuts, some washers and the old bearing races.

Pressing in either the top or the bottom, one at a time, go like this:

Threaded rod with a nut at one end.

Washer(s) against the nut.

Drop rod/nut/washers through head tube.

Lightly seat the bottom race in the heat tube.

Put washers on rod.

Thread nut on bottom and snug up the nuts so the whole stack is holding the race in place.

Line up the press and the bearing race so that it's parallel with the head tube and you're pressing in square.

Now start slowly tightening the nuts.

You may have to loosen and re-tighten if your press gets off center.

You'll only need the old bearing race to press with if your new race sits shallower than the head tube openings.

Repeat for the other (top) end and you're good to go.

Make sure you have a beefy rod and good hardware or you'll just strip the threads.

If necessary, I can take a picture of what I used, but I'll bet your local hardware store will understand what you're doing if you explain it to them.

Good luck.

Joel

Awesome, this is why I love this place and you guys. I drove in the lower race this afternoon using the old race, no problem. Thanks a ton!

Lacy

LandShark

[...]You can press them in using a crude press made from threaded rod, a couple nuts, some washers and the old bearing races.[...]

Hey Joel et al, how do you know when the bearing races are seated fully when using this technique? As SebSpeed says above, you can hear the difference in sound when taping them in but with this homemade press, which I like because it should help maintain better alignment, how can you tell when the race(s) are seated? Just based on the torque?

BartmanEH

but with this homemade press, which I like because it should help maintain better alignment, how can you tell when the race(s) are seated? Just based on the torque?

Torque. When they are seated you'll immediately feel the increased resistance. No need for a home made press, I use the bottom yoke/steering stem to act as the bearing press. I start and finish seating the bearings by rotating the yoke and not the top bearing nut. This way they go in perfectly square.

The Pit Posse bearing press (like what LandShark described, but with flanged bearing drivers so it won't go off-center) is about $60 on Amazon, btw.

Ciao,

Probably the best MC mechanic I have ever known( Dave Pras- Tri County Cycle Brooksville, FL) taught me how to install bearings the shade tree way.

I did mine a couple years ago(Ten).

He told me to use a peice of PVC to hammer in the race.

Using the old race, I guess is OK for some. But I have seen how many use tools and work on their bike. Not good!

Maybe it is a bad Idea for some of you to be beating on your bike with a hammer and an old steel race on the new race.

With a six inch section of a PVC pipe. The pipe will absorb the damage that you could inflict on the new race beating it with the old race.

This is the same way that you will install the lower bearing.

Of course you will need another different sized peice of PVC pipe for the bearing.

You need a pipe which will slide down the steering stem and hit the inner bearing without touching the outer cage of the bearing.

Once you are done save the two pipes in your tool box for next time or for your next bike.

Hammers and motorcycles are often a bad match up.

JZH

The Pit Posse bearing press (like what LandShark described, but with flanged bearing drivers so it won't go off-center) is about $60 on Amazon, btw.

Not sure which one you mean on Amazon: Pit Posse bearing press

Can you provide a link please?

Sure, hope this works: Link

It's sold by Boss Powersports Outlet.

Ciao,

gr8vfr

Using the old race, I guess is OK for some. But I have seen how many use tools and work on their bike. Not good!

Maybe it is a bad Idea for some of you to be beating on your bike with a hammer and an old steel race on the new race.

Hammers and motorcycles are often a bad match up.

Beating, no. Carefully tapping all the way around the circumference, yes.

The CORRECT application of force is necessary in many instances. The old race, with a slot cut in it, makes a perfect driver for the new race. It's already the right size.

And the slot keeps it from lodging in the bore on top of the new race. Ya don't want that to happen! Just be sure to de-burr it after cutting the slot.

[image: 100_0575.JPG]

[image: 100_0574.JPG]