Oil, Bugs, Tar??

The veefalo shes been violated. Rode through a mile long section of oiled road in Fort Collins and it got all over the bike, peices of sticky oily dirt all over. Then a recently chip sealed road got little rocks covered with tar all over the wheels and under belly, and of course bugs all over the place! Soap and water for the bugs but the tar is a different story I dont want to scrub it off and ruin my wheels? I heard of a product called bugs off but no reviews, I dont see any sense in spending money on a product that dont work.

I've used Turtle Wax bug and tar remover on my cars before with good results. It seems to have solvent and wax products in one. Good luck Miguel. Be sure and clean that left turn signal cover...I think I bought that part...Just kidding!! So honored to have participated in your new ride...ride safe!

[image: View Post]HispanicSlammer, on 24 August 2010 - 11:03 AM, said:

The veefalo shes been violated. Rode through a mile long section of oiled road in Fort Collins and it got all over the bike, peices of sticky oily dirt all over. Then a recently chip sealed road got little rocks covered with tar all over the wheels and under belly, and of course bugs all over the place! Soap and water for the bugs but the tar is a different story I dont want to scrub it off and ruin my wheels? I heard of a product called bugs off but no reviews, I dont see any sense in spending money on a product that dont work.



For my wheels I just use silicone spray and a clean rag, works great!! Once you get them clean use another clean dry rag to kinda "polish" off the residue, leaves the wheels super shiny and much more resistant to new stuff sticking to them, like chain lube. And yes, I have tried uber cleaning my wheels and then using multiple coats of wax, dosen't work, at all, huge waste of time. As for tar, rubber bits, and other various things that stick to the windshield and paint, Plexus is some magical stuff. My friend, who is strictly against getting his bike wet, uses it to clean all the painted surfaces on the bike.

For bugs, I have used 'Bug and Tar Remover'. It comes in a yellow spray can. It sprays in a light foam. You do need to let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes to really work.
For tar removal, I have tried 'GOO be gone'. It is not perfect, but it works about 80% -90%. Several applications are needed .

WD40 works really well for removing the tar, brake dust and rubber gunk from wheels, just be sure to rinse it all off with soapy water when you're done.

http://www.turtlewax....taf?p=2,1,4,11

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 24 August 2010 - 11:15 AM, said:

WD40 works really well for removing the tar, brake dust and rubber gunk from wheels, just be sure to rinse it all off with soapy water when you're done.

I thought about that, wasnt sure - dont want to get it on the tires.

Here's what I use http://www.bayesclea...s-Car-Wash.html I think it was reviewed in MCN, or one of the other mags. The stuff works like a charm...bugs, tar, oil, grime.....all gone! I won't use anything else ever again. So much easier washing down the bike without a hose!

[image: View Post]HispanicSlammer, on 24 August 2010 - 11:16 AM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 24 August 2010 - 11:15 AM, said:

WD40 works really well for removing the tar, brake dust and rubber gunk from wheels, just be sure to rinse it all off with soapy water when you're done.

I thought about that, wasnt sure - dont want to get it on the tires.


Spray it on a rag, then wipe, as opposed to spraying on the wheel, then wiping. :fing02:

+1 on the Turtlewax bug and tar remover. Have a bottle in the garage and it works on just about anything even tree sap.

I've used bug & tar remover wipes in the past. Not sure of the brand but they came in a foil package with a ziplock-type closure. Works well most of the time, but really tough objects or stains require some elbow grease to remove wth the wipes alone.

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 24 August 2010 - 11:15 AM, said:

WD40 works really well for removing the tar, brake dust and rubber gunk from wheels, just be sure to rinse it all off with soapy water when you're done.


I'll second this. :fing02:

[image: View Post]Conedodger, on 24 August 2010 - 11:36 AM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 24 August 2010 - 11:15 AM, said:

WD40 works really well for removing the tar, brake dust and rubber gunk from wheels, just be sure to rinse it all off with soapy water when you're done.


I'll second this. :fing02:


I haven't tried the Turtle Wax stuff, it might be better. But the WD does work.

[image: View Post]HispanicSlammer, on 24 August 2010 - 11:03 AM, said:

The veefalo shes been violated. Rode through a mile long section of oiled road in Fort Collins and it got all over the bike, peices of sticky oily dirt all over. Then a recently chip sealed road got little rocks covered with tar all over the wheels and under belly, and of course bugs all over the place! Soap and water for the bugs but the tar is a different story I dont want to scrub it off and ruin my wheels? I heard of a product called bugs off but no reviews, I dont see any sense in spending money on a product that dont work.


Bet your glad those wheels aren't WHITE.

I use Bug and Tar remover first, then wash the bike real good. Then I use Goof-Off or Goo Gone to remove any leftover tar (I always use a 100% cotton cloth so I don't scratch anything). Then a final wash to remove any cleaning solutions.
The Goof-Off and Goo Gone have kept my Staintune exhaust looking new.

Having a new bike requires more work!

Good luck.

Mark

Another tip for bugs...

...wet down a large towel and drape it over the front of the bike and let it sit for a 1/2 hour before washing the bike. It'll soften those critters up and make it much easier to remove them.

This is the stuff I use and it works well, although I haven't had large amounts of tar on my bikes, the tar I did have, came off....

The main thing I'd be concerned with, is not putting a hand/rag/etc. on it until I have sprayed soaked and rinsed, so as to not scratch anything.

http://www.bikebrite.com/index.html

Also one of the best cleaning cloths I've found is a sheep skin mitt.

http://www.amazon.co...n/dp/B000E7FW3O

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 24 August 2010 - 11:15 AM, said:

WD40 works really well for removing the tar, brake dust and rubber gunk from wheels, just be sure to rinse it all off with soapy water when you're done.



:+1: WD40...

I use a product called Tarminator, it works really well on tar and oil. Spray it on and you can see the tar melt away. Napa sells it.

Simple Green FTW!!! This stuff is THE magical worker for all sorts of crap my bike and car picks up...

:beer:

Vince (97VFR750)

[image: View Post]97VFR750, on 24 August 2010 - 04:32 PM, said:

Simple Green FTW!!! This stuff is THE magical worker for all sorts of crap my bike and car picks up...

:beer:

Vince (97VFR750)


Simple Green does not work well with certain metals and materials so be careful. Personally I like WD40 and even a little Kerosene on a rag (notice how well it cleans a chain?!)

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 24 August 2010 - 11:15 AM, said:

WD40 works really well for removing the tar, brake dust and rubber gunk from wheels, just be sure to rinse it all off with soapy water when you're done.


Thats what i use, but I dont wash off afterwards, wheels are still gray, and I dont see any paint damage to be concerned with , I do this weekly too . I'm not too picky on wheels as long as they arent corroding and look decent.

[image: View Post]Metallican525, on 24 August 2010 - 11:10 AM, said:

For my wheels I just use silicone spray and a clean rag, works great!! .


Pay extra attention to this because it's in a red font! :warranty:



:goofy:

I have always used gasoline. Is there a reason nobody has suggested that?

I've always used Ronsonal lighter fluid(Naptha), electrical contact cleaner, or if it's really bad I'll use Gumout carb cleaner. (Always test on an inconspicuous spot before you slather anything on your shiny paint.)

[image: View Post]dutchinterceptor, on 24 August 2010 - 09:33 PM, said:

I've always used Ronsonal lighter fluid(Naptha), electrical contact cleaner, or if it's really bad I'll use Gumout carb cleaner. (Always test on an inconspicuous spot before you slather anything on your shiny paint.)

That has the added benifit of lighting your wheels on fire if they get ruined, just scorch the finish off and start over.

[image: View Post]Park800, on 24 August 2010 - 11:30 AM, said:

+1 on the Turtlewax bug and tar remover. Have a bottle in the garage and it works on just about anything even tree sap.

[image: View Post]Monk, on 24 August 2010 - 11:16 AM, said:

http://www.turtlewax....taf?p=2,1,4,11


Oh, my, yes. What I really like about this is that you should not use water with it, so if you're at a campsite or racetrack and decide to get all domestic and tidy, a spray bottle of B&T and a pack of paper towels will do you fine. Spray and wipe.

THEN,

[image: View Post]97VFR750, on 24 August 2010 - 04:32 PM, said:

Simple Green FTW!!! This stuff is THE magical worker for all sorts of crap my bike and car picks up...

:beer:

Vince (97VFR750)


Simple Green for the mop-up. Use water then...

Glenn

[image: View Post]Lee 2002, on 24 August 2010 - 09:20 PM, said:

I have always used gasoline. Is there a reason nobody has suggested that?


+1

I also employ simple gas and soft paint brush to disolve oil and tar...

HS:

I've been learning and experimenting with detailing techniques for a while now.

Try using the least harshest cleaner that will do the job. (Don't use a sledgehammer when all you need is a light tap!)

- Goo-Gone, carb cleaner, naptha, gasoline WILL harm your clear coat, although it might be possible to quickly use them with no visible damage, if quickly washed off. I do not recomment this. Varsol is less harsh than gasoline, and WD-40 is preferred to Varsol. Naptha is pretty much like gasoline. WD-40 seems to be pretty safe for a lot of surfaces, but I try not to use it on paint too much. I've had very limited success with removing dried road tar with WD-40. It just doesn't seem to dissolve the tar once it sets up.

- Castrol SuperClean, Purple Power, or other strong degreasers may also work and can also damage your bike's finish, although I sometimes use a light misting of it to get rid of troublesome OLD bug / stains that have been really baked onto the bikes finish (use this product diluted with water and applied to an already wetted-down surface, let sit for about a minute to soften the bugs, then rinse away.) You then scrub away offending bugs or stains with your favorite auto shampoo, then rinse off with water.

- Car wash shampoo and water is my favorite way to clean. They do not strip wax, it lubricates dirt as you clean, and do not harm paint. Do not use a sponge (too difficult to remove old dirt from them, they tend to scratch), do not use wool wash mitt (abrasive and will scratch). Microfibre wash mitts are good but must be properly cared for to keep clean between washes. A good boar's hair wash brush is excellent for doing a quality wash and reaching tough to reach areas, while not scratching your paint. And the brush is easy to care for and clean between uses.

- I recommend this product: P21S for its all-around cleaning effectiveness. Total Cycle Cleaner wash.

- The second thing I recommend is using a clay bar for stubborn grime, road tar, pollution and other impurities that imbed themselved into the top surface of the paint. (NOTE: Not all clay bars are equal, and some are coarser than others. Pick the smoothest clay that you need and follow its directions, it is pretty easy. USE LOTS OF LUBE! Use a clay bar lubricant, but auto detailing spray works just as well for this purpose. Use the clay bar ONLY on an otherwise clean surface: wash and dry the bike to make sure if is clean and free of dust or grit before clay barring the surface. Keep the bar clean and knead it often to keep the contaminants away from the working surface of the clay. If you drop the clay or let it touch a dirty surface, it is done, so use little peices at a time and take you time so as to not drop it. Clay doesn't work well directly over seams or rough textures, so use care around them. Clay strips wax and leaves a naked paint surface. You will need to re-apply your favorite paint sealant of wax when done, but I am usually doing this anyway.) I've found that a few passes of the clay will remove most small tar specks quite readily, without harsh chemicals. And it seems to be faster and easier too. This has become my preferred method of tackling most imbedded or stubbornly attached contaminants.

- The third thing is to use preventitive maintenance towards your bike's finish. A freshly waxed and well sealed paint surface is always easier to clean, when compared to one that has little or no protection. Bugs, tar, grime, contaminants are all less likely to form strong bonds to your paint when a wax or paint sealer is protecting your paint. Sonus makes some nice polish and sealing products that do not break the bank, and the P21S wax is quite good as well, but my latest secret weapon is this: Collinite #845 Insulator wax It will give a very durable finish (I have not been using it long enough to know how long it truly lasts) and you can wax over it for double protection. It is great stuff and easy to work with. ( I can show Canadians where to buy it, if they are having trouble finding it.)

I hope this helps you and others in your cleanliness quest.

I might do a detailed "how-to" on detailing in a few months when I am done experimenting with some other new products I am currently trying out, because there are a LOT of products out there and it can be pretty overwhelming to learn.

[image: View Post]Q-Dawg, on 25 August 2010 - 02:54 AM, said:

HS:

I might do a detailed "how-to" on detailing in a few months when I am done experimenting with some other new products I am currently trying out, because there are a LOT of products out there and it can be pretty overwhelming to learn.


Please!

One thing to consider on the bugs is what I do. I ride between them and never hit them. Keeps your visor clean and your bike takes less time to clean up the bike!! :goofy:

Seriously, WD40 is the best tar remover on the planet. :beer:

[image: View Post]Q-Dawg, on 25 August 2010 - 02:54 AM, said:

, gasoline WILL harm your clear coat,



Negative... the quality of clear coats the manufacture use today will not be harmed by gasoline during refueling or tar removal...

[image: View Post]BusyLittleShop, on 25 August 2010 - 02:35 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Q-Dawg, on 25 August 2010 - 02:54 AM, said:

, gasoline WILL harm your clear coat,



Negative... the quality of clear coats the manufacture use today will not be harmed by gasoline during refueling or tar removal...


Sometimes not, but it generally isn't good for the paint if it sits on there for a while. I have seen some clear coats soften up with gas used for cleaning off tar. Unprotected decals may be harmed by gasoline if not covered in clear coat like the Honda wings on the gas tank, which are protected by clear.

And I make the general statement that it will harm paint, because I've seen it happen even on some of the newer vehicles. There are a lot of different paint products in use today, and not all of them are immune to gasoline effects. Seemed to be most problematic if there were any nicks, chips or deeper scratches present, and occured mostly on plastic trim. My thoughts are that the clear coat provides a decent barrier most of the time, but if there is a way around it or under it, bad things can happen.

Secondly, a bike might have cheap aftermarket fairings on it, or a re-spray. Hard to say what quality of paint may have been used.

Better to play it safe if you can and use another product.

Not trying to split hairs here, but people should know the risk. I would hate to see someone cause damage to their prized ride by using a substance that they think is safe to use, when there are in fact some risks.

[image: View Post]Q-Dawg, on 26 August 2010 - 11:32 AM, said:

Sometimes not, but it generally isn't good for the paint if it sits on there for a while. I have seen some clear coats soften up with gas used for cleaning off tar. Unprotected decals may be harmed by gasoline if not covered in clear coat like the Honda wings on the gas tank, which are protected by clear.



Gas may sit on the tank for a while because the quality of clear coats
the manufacture use today will not be harmed by gasoline during
refueling or tar removal... You may have seen some clear coats soften
but not the quality ones applied by the factory... just think
warrantee claims if they did...

http://www.turtlewax....taf?p=2,1,4,11

I use solvent for road tar. I always have it around so it's easy. I wash off my bike when I get home. If you wait a day and the bugs dry, they are tougher. Miguel, I'm sure you know all this. I haven't found an easy way.

Kerosene