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Questions from a new VFR owner

18 posts Started 27 Sep 2010 Last recovered post 30 Sep 2010 Wayback Machine snapshot 18 Oct 2010

#1
I'm new here and still digging through all the good info. I recently bought a '95 with about 30k miles on it. The original owner took pretty good care of it. My brother bought it, laid it down, needed money, and sold it to me dirt cheap ($600). My winter project is to fix the body work (a couple cracked fairings) and get it tweaked and tuned for spring.

So my questions are:
  • Is there a guide or list of things that I should check for a full tune up?
  • What are normal basic mods most people do to these (K&N filter for example)?
  • What color should I paint it (Winning Red (The Suburu Version) or Gun Metal Gray Flake)?


As far as I know, the engine is in great condition and possibly has been jetted. I am a new rider and this is my first bike. My goal is not to get crazy power out of it, but to make sure it runs well so I can put some miles on it. I'm comfortable with most engine tear down and building, but would like to minimize that if possible. I don't want to dump a ton of money into it, but I would like to make sure it gets the treatment it deserves. Thanks in advance.

Carnage Pics:
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/MorfiusX/Motorcycle/Damage/th_IMAG0005.jpghttp://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/MorfiusX/Motorcycle/Damage/th_IMAG0006.jpghttp://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/MorfiusX/Motorcycle/Damage/th_IMAG0007.jpghttp://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/MorfiusX/Motorcycle/Damage/th_IMAG0008.jpghttp://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/MorfiusX/Motorcycle/Damage/th_IMAG0010.jpg
#2
Welcome to VFRD! :cheerleader:

Tune up usually includes oil and filter change, air filter change, new spark plugs and a general check of the whole bike and replace things as needed. Some will argue that a valve clearance check is in order as well, but IMO, and from the opinions of many on this forum, they just dont need to be checked as often as the manual says too, or very often at all. But thats not to say your bike falls in that category. Definitely look over the charging system as parts of the system are prone to failure, especially the Regulator Rectifier and related wires and connectors. If anything looks burnt or if the output isnt in spec i'd look into it as it can leave you stranded.

A lot of owners usually upgrade the air element, but I believe that to be the result of a K & N, or similar, lasting much longer than a regular stock paper filter than because of the gains in power it might entail. A few other common mods are to switch out the pipe for a louder, freer(?) flowing type to really open up the beautiful V4 growl, I personally like a quieter Viffer because I love the gear whine, a jet kit as you mentioned, de-snorkel (idk if the 4th gens have this) and put on some PAIR block off plates (again, idk if this applies to 4th gens). Power gains from any of these mods is very negligible, as in you probably wont really even notice them on the "butt dyno" so dont worry about adding crazy power to the bike.

As far as painting, its really up to your tastes, they look great in either color, I personally would go with a dark green (almost looks black) metallic of the Euro 5th gens, similar to VFR Steve's 5th Gen??

Good Luck!
#3

[image: View Post]MorfiusX, on 27 September 2010 - 03:58 PM, said:

...
So my questions are:
  • Is there a guide or list of things that I should check for a full tune up?
  • What are normal basic mods most people do to these (K&N filter for example)?
  • What color should I paint it (Winning Red (The Suburu Version) or Gun Metal Gray Flake)?
...
A view from the UK:
#1: Yes, a Honda Workshop Manual. available on the web on CD, has excellent diagrams and a maintenance schedule. Alternatively a Haynes manual will do - good colour wiring diagrams. The Clymer is OK but stuffed with instructions you will not need if familiar with maintaining vehicles, IMHO.
#2: As mentioned before, check the Regulator/Rectifier for correct operation. The exhaust is liable to rot (perhaps more so in UK weather than US) but good aftermarket pipes are available from Motad. A replacement end can is lighter and sounds better, but is a cosmetic addition, particularly the high level ones. A quality replacement shock will be good when the OE gives up. The best single mod apart from replacing failing parts is to drop the yokes (triple tree to you lot over there) down the stanchions by 5 to 10 mm, or (better IMHO) raise the rear by 10mm with a 3mm shim under the top shock mount. Don't do both. An adjustable length shock will make this easier to do. Oh - the secret to good braking is clean sliding pins in the calipers lubricated with red rubber grease - anything else will swell the boots and jam the slide.
#3: Use the standard red. You have enough of the red already on it that the respray will only affect the front panels, not tank or rear fairing. Standard colours are better for resale too. You can repair trhe damaged belly pan with file and sandpaper, then paint with satin black plastic bumper (fender to you) paint, like I did for an excellent result.
Save your money and time tarting up the bike - spend it on learning how to ride well since you are a new rider. There is more than enough power for you to play with and get into trouble with. Go get some advanced instruction and go practise.
My 65,000 miler before I bent it (Motad pipes, Remus can, Penske remote reservoir shock, R&G crash bungs, MRA Vario screen, prepared for Givi Wingrack etc.):

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  • [image: Attached Image: April\'09 003 crop.jpg]

#4
Congrats on the new bike and welcome to the fray! I don't know a thing about the 4th gens other than I like 'em. And of course, the best (and fastest) color is Crimson Tide Red

I'm sure, however, at least one other person will chime in with a color preference... :ph34r:
#5

[image: View Post]steve27bha, on 27 September 2010 - 06:03 PM, said:

#1: Yes, a Honda Workshop Manual. available on the web on CD, has excellent diagrams and a maintenance schedule. Alternatively a Haynes manual will do - good colour wiring diagrams. The Clymer is OK but stuffed with instructions you will not need if familiar with maintaining vehicles, IMHO.

This came with it:
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/MorfiusX/Motorcycle/th_IMAG0033.jpg

Also pictured is a box with jet components in it.

As for the paint, I read somewhere around here that matching the factory color (winning red) was difficult. That's the biggest reason I was thinking about a complete paint job and not just the pieces that are damaged.
#6

[image: View Post]steve27bha, on 27 September 2010 - 06:03 PM, said:

Save your money and time tarting up the bike - spend it on learning how to ride well since you are a new rider. There is more than enough power for you to play with and get into trouble with. Go get some advanced instruction and go practise.


I didn't really plan on trying to get more power out of it, just wanted to make sure it will last me a while given that it already has 30k on it. I took Ohio's Basic Rider Safety course, which I enjoyed and it taught me a lot.
#7
Hi and welcome to VFRD! :fing02:

If you don't want to mess with this bike and want to make a quick $100 profit, PM me! :goofy:

BR
#8
You should Never have to go inside that engine for at least another 100-200k miles! :fing02:
#9
You've got a brilliant bike and fairly low mileage too.

If you're looking to change the intake, avoid K&N. They don't filter all that well (see google for tests) and are quite small in surface area so you don't get much flow change. Either take the mesh screen off a stock filter or get a UNI foam filter. Put in 132 main jets and Factory Pro 84j needle on clip 3. Ditch the snorkel (you'll get a bit more induction roar about 5500rpm but it's not bad in the cruise).

Change the oil and the plugs and if you want, check the cam shims (although you probably won't have to do anything). Check the chain and sprockets and it may be worth renewing the fork oil.

If your rear shock is shot, go for a converted 929 CBR shock. On the front end, CBR 600 F3 internals go in to give you rebound adjustment (although I'm discovering that now I want Racetech valves too). EBC scintered pads and braided hoses make the brakes much nicer with good feel and increased performance.

Here's my recently re-built '93 at Mallory Park. 106.5fwhp / 97.1rwhp and sounds amazing. BT-023 tyres seem great, although I've only had them a week and a half. See my other posts for details on all the stuff I've done.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1285274499/med_gallery_5709_5609_414941.jpg

Enjoy the ride. Nothing sounds as nice as a V4 with gear driven cams!

Stew
#10
If you can't find the shop manual online, I can e-mail you a PDF of the 90-96 manual. Just send me a PM.

Good luck with the new machine..........and welcome to the club !!
#11
Congratulations on the pick up :fing02: Welcome to the club :cheerleader: You have what myself and others consider to be the best generation :comp13: Other than normal maintenance items, ck the Reg/Rec for proper operation you should be good to go :fing02: Tune up all you need to do is change plugs, as for air cleaner use stock it won't make much of a difference IMHO My Baby is at 74,600 right now & running Strong!

Good Luck, here you will find all the answers you need

Gary
#12
one of the best health plans for this bike is to ride it every day.
#13
Welcome to VFRD from across the pond :fing02:


Engine is bullitproof, bodywork a bit more fragile as you know.......

That brake pedal can be bent back, no doubt it left an indent in the frame..... been there done that.

No real powergains to be achieved and 98 hirses is enough, 140mph......


Enjoy the "NACA", 4th Gens are the best :fing02:


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n206/Dutchy_748/My%20VFR/HPIM2461.jpg
#14

[image: View Post]MorfiusX, on 27 September 2010 - 07:20 PM, said:

just wanted to make sure it will last me a while given that it already has 30k on it.


So it may be broken in now - no worries on the mileage if it was properly maintained. Just look around at some of the odometer counters in people's avatars... 30k = no worries...
#15
Only about 170k left before you need to look at the engine then. I imagine you'll not burn of those miles in the first year of ownership.

Honda UK has seen one 750 do 212k before the first rebuild and then 205k to the second.

Stew
#16
Welcome and enjoy an awesome ride. Your work will be well worth it. :fing02:

Only thing I would add is check the NACA ducts for small birds and road kill... :laughing6-hehe:

Lots of good ideas through out this board. My number one sugestion is poor your self a drink and start searching this board, there is a ton of good stuff here.

Just DON'T say you are going to buy Airtech Body Work or putting on a loud pipe... it gets a few people upset :laughing6-hehe:
#17
Speaking of Airtech
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1275092057/gallery_8073_4155_148150.jpg
IMG_0028.JPG
Not the best, but better than nothing... Plus It was a great can't pass it up buy! Just keep your eyes open, parts pop up at weird times, I just got some broken panels from another member here & with those & a couple of pieces off my mangled ones, I can make a very nice set easily! I am stoked now. If you need anything let me know, I have alot of misc pieces from my two rebuilds :ohmy:
Just ride her :fing02:
#18
I have already bought the replacement failings. Spent about 175 for the two most damaged ones.
End of thread · 18 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 18 Oct 2010