5th Gen Lowering

Have been hunting the forum for a straight forward answer on lowering the bike. Looks like there are a lot of mixed opinions out there which is a bit confusing. I am 5.5 so 50% of my foot is on the ground. Any inputs on....

1) whats is the drop using the link flip option ? how much (mm) should the fork be raised ? Should the Sidestand be altered after that. Stock stand is quite upright anyways.
2) What is the drop using the Sigma kit ?
3) Should the chain be adjusted after the lowering is completed ?

Thanks

I'm about the same stature as you. I simply made myself learn to always plan to put only one foot down, and nearly always the right.  This was mostly as the compromises of lowering, as you have surmised, seemingly all have their drawbacks. There have been only a couple of occasions where this was truly hairy (in one particular case, a deeply declined, tight right turn, with a stop sign at the bottom), but as always, you may have a quite different experience.

Good luck with it.

George

I've not lowered a VFR myself, but if I remember correctly just flipping the triangle plates at the bottom of the shock with net a 1 1/2" drop in the rear just by pointing the arrow's up.
You should also drop the front end (raise tubes in triples) a corresponding amount (within 10mm) to maintain the bikes handling balance.
You will also have to shorten the side stand for it to be functional.

The plus is this mod is Free!

BR

thanks for the inputs...
1) any idea how much to shorten the sidestand...cut off like 20mm ?
2) increasing the fork by 10mm...would the front mud guard hit the front cowl/horn ?

Sigma Cycle (http://www.sigmacycle.com) has a real nice kit with a dogbone, spacers for the forks and a replacement stand.

I bought a similar kit back in 2005 and am very pleased with the results.

There's a detailed how-to for installing the kit at another member's site: http://www.seantmurp...m/VFR/#Lowering

The cost is $365 for the whole kit.
The risers are handy, but not mandatory.
You can save $90 by just getting the dogbone and the stand.

[image: View Post]AnikMankar, on 12 January 2011 - 04:11 AM, said:

thanks for the inputs...

2) increasing the fork by 10mm...would the front mud guard hit the front cowl/horn ?

What I meant was drop the front the same amount as the rear ie:  drop rear 1 1/2" then drop the front 1 1/2" less 10mm if you wanted quicker turn-in.   :biggrin:

BR

i had my triangles flipped on my bike for almost a year. i didnt feel comfortable on the bike when i first got it (comin from a cb750 cruiser...) but after a while i started to get more comfortable on her, and got more into the handling of the bike, so i put i back to stock.

i never touched the front end, it felt fine with just the back lowered. it wound up dropping the rear almost an inch. it made me a little nervous putting it on the side stand, with it lowered. if you drop the front and back 1 and a half inches your deffinetely gonna want to pick up a lowered stand. i woundnt suggest just cutting it, as its gonna sink right into the ground unless your on concrete.

[image: View Post]CandyRedRC46, on 12 January 2011 - 08:13 PM, said:

so i put i back to stock.

So are you back to stock settings ? Triangle arrow facing forward ?

So lowered the bike today. Was easier that i expected. ...


1) Removed the rear wheel to take the weight off and get easy access to the link area
2) removed the bolts and twisted the "Triangle" with the arrow facing up.
[image: Posted Image]
Triangle flipped.jpg
3) Assembling the links back was a little tricky. Eventually got it after a little struggle with the bolts and alignment - Started with the Shock bolt, then the link and then the swing arm. With the wheel off it was easy to shift the swing arm around.
4) Torqued the bolts back.
5) Total time was 45 min.
6) The next step was to drop the front end
7) Placed a car jack under the exhaust and lifted the front end just a little to keep it in place
[image: Posted Image]
Bike Jacked up.jpg
8) Unbolted the fork bolts and reduced the jack height
9) The forks lifted automatically due to the weight as the jack was lowered.
10) Raised the fork about 8 mm (for now) used a caliper to ensure both sides are equal. (cannot drop this any lower ...i am sure to hit all the speed breakers and pot holes over here !!!)
[image: Posted Image]
Bike getting lowered.jpg

11) Tighten the fork bolts.
12) I do have handle raisers so had to drop them by 8 mm also.
[image: Posted Image]
Handle bar raised.jpg
13) Total time 15 min
14) Will alter the side stand later on.

Test ride tomorrow. !

Thank you all for your inputs.

Test ride was great. A little more confident when i stop and both my feet touch the ground (at the same time).  


Any ideas on how to shorten the sidestand besides buying one at Sigma ?

I did the rear triangle too (nothing in front) and just lived with the side stand for a while. Eventually just took it to local mc shop and they cut it down for, um...about $40 IIRC.

What was a bigger problem was the centerstand. I simply could not lift the bike without rolling the rear tire onto a 2x4 and a 1x4! I had the same shop shorten the centerstand as much as possible and it is much easier, but still requires a bit of effort and I still use a 1x4 at home.

[image: View Post]VFR99, on 16 January 2011 - 09:44 AM, said:

I did the rear triangle too (nothing in front) and just lived with the side stand for a while. Eventually just took it to local mc shop and they cut it down for, um...about $40 IIRC.

What was a bigger problem was the centerstand. I simply could not lift the bike without rolling the rear tire onto a 2x4 and a 1x4! I had the same shop shorten the centerstand as much as possible and it is much easier, but still requires a bit of effort and I still use a 1x4 at home.

How much did shorten it by ? as in mm

Shortening the Side stand took more time than lowering the bike   :biggrin:

couple of images
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10. Side Stand cut - end piece.jpg

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11. Side Stand cut - 15 mm reduced.jpg

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12. Side Stand cut - Wedging the ends.jpg

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13. Side Stand cut - after welding.jpg

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14. Side Stand cut - after grinding the excess metal.jpg

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15. Side Stand Cut - paint removed.jpg

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16. Side stand cut - used Loctite metal filler.jpg

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17. Side Stand Cut - After painting.jpg

The paint is still drying up...but the angle of the side stand is much better.

i undid the lowering today to original setting. The bike was hitting the speed bumps plus when i take a pillion the seat lock was too close to the chain guard (while ridding it was abt 20mm away).

so lets see ...

in the bargain i think i screwed one of the nut / bolts at the top

[image: Posted Image]
Triangle flipped.jpg

then bolts and nut are slipping...just turning round and round - i can't tighten or loosen the damn thing...i think i will have to cut the nut. ANY SUGGESTIONS ????