No neutral when Vfr is warmed up.

Hi guys recently bought a Vfr 400 NC30, it drives like a dream the only issue I have is that either the gearbox, or selector doesn't want select neutral when the motor is either running or the bike has been driven warm. The neutral switch goes on intermittently as well. I do have a leak coming from the gearbox behind the water pump I think. Here's a link http://m.flickr.com/...02/5285941672/. Hope you guys can see it. I'll be sorting the link out shortly. Just wanted your guys input on what else could be the problem.

just joined the forum a couple of days ago and I guess this is the place to ask.

I have nothing to offer, I've never even seen a 400 like yours...but at least I can say hello and welcome.

Um..is the clutch cable-operated or hydraulic? If it's cable, it may very well be just a matter of adjusting it.

The clutch is not hydraulic it's cable operated. I was going to get new steps for both break and clutch anyway maybe I should do it sooner than later. The bike model is nearly 20 years old, they are the VFR RC 30 but in miniature form. I guess if you dont change anything for that long it's bound to give. I don't think the previous owner did much or anything. The bike is a rebuild project for me, wanting to restore it to it's former glory.
I'll have a look at adjusting the selector. Thanks for the advice coffeebreak and you said you have nothing...

can you select nuetral with the bike off? this will rule out most mechanical errors. If that is ok, it must be a clutch adjustment problem. Try adjusting the clutch to grab like crazy and see if neutral can be found...if so, you have eliminated 99 per cent of the possible causes. also before you try anything, give it some gas with the clutch in and try it then.

all clues point to clutch adjustment, espeacially the "when warm" part, but I really am no expert, although I did stay in a Holiday Inn last night.

yes before i start the bike i can get neutral easily. I found that if i roll the bike back a bit before i select neutral its even better to get too.

Thanks Timmy I'll see what i can do. My clutch is getting a bit soft as well i know its because of not being able to get neutral while waiting at traffic lights, hope my cable doesn't snap while I'm in traffic :mellow: . will let you guys know what i come up with.

Why a holiday inn? :biggrin: Just asking.

Timmy that was some good advice about giving it some gas before changing to to neutral, it actually worked. Had a look at the clutch step and link rod. On the step there is too much play on the foot selector, meaning that when you change gears the link rod doesn't push straight forward but more on an angle so it's hard for the selector to select neutral, so it looks like I need to order new steps for both clutch and breaks(might as well) and start the rebuild.

Thanks for the advice again Timmy and coffeebreak.

One more thing occurred to me this morning as I clunked my husband's bike into first (it is definitely not adjusted for my foot):

Some bikes are real picky about where the shifter is located on the shaft coming out of the motor. My '86 VFR700 is one of those. There is a tiny little dot on the shifter shaft, and the part that goes over the splines must line up with that dot. The dot should be right on the opening (where the screw pulls it tight) of the part that goes over the shifter shaft. I could barely shift the thing when I moved the shifter, instead I had to put it back so that the opening in the linkage was in line with that little dot.

My Yamaha will NOT go into neutral if that dot is not lined up with the split in the shift linkage.

Maybe your 400 is like that...there should be some slop in the linkage, you might see if lining it up with the dot keeps you from having to buy parts.

SottoNC30, on 13 January 2011 - 09:54 AM, said: Why a holiday inn? Just asking. there is an american commercial where people who stay at a Holiday Inn act like they are experts at something.

Coffeebrake you beauty. I'll have a look look if they line up tomorrow. Still want to get some new parts though (like hoses, bolts even new fairing everything looks a bit shabby at the moment), for my rebuild its gonna take some time and money to get it looking pristine. I'll be keeping it for a long time, even if I do get a newer model bike.

Anyway enough about me, you guys and great thanks a bunch.

Dude just get the engine right, get the brakes perfect, get the clutch where it's working well.

THEN worry about your first piece of plastic fairing. Unless you're wealthy you'll likely be repairing fairing, but that's for later.

Don't worry about paint if you can't find neutral.

I know you know all this, but sometimes it's easy to get caught up in the aesthetics that drew us to a bike in the first place, and prevent us from sinking our concentration and resources into making it streetable first, pretty second.

That was my initial plan but I am falling into that trap (as you can see), thanks for the reality check, much appreciated. Just have to slow my roll for now.

Had a leak (leak started end of last year, been topping up my oil ever since), coming from beneath the gearbox. I degreased and cleaned cleaned the area initially and gave it another ride, trying to establish the source of the problem. Had another look and I finally resigned myself to the fact that it was coming from the gearbox area.

So i took my bike to the mechanic yesterday . Apparently his diagnosis was that it is coming from the tapit cover gasket, running down the side of the motor and ending up beneath the gearbox.

So, could the fluctuating oil pressure be the cause of my neutral woes, is that even plausible?

I can see you reading this post with frowned eyebrows and thinking "yes you fool, obviously!!!", thats why i'm here :biggrin: !