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Is there a detailed CCT replacement thread?

19 posts Started 26 Jan 2011 Last recovered post 16 Feb 2012 Wayback Machine snapshot 1 Dec 2012

#1
So before the weather breaks, I want to fix or replace my cct.  

I looked through most of the threads, but didn't find any detailed info on the fix.

Does a thread with details, photos, drawings, and/or diagrams exist?

If so, hook my up with a link or two!  Otherwise, is anyone willing to provide some detailed guidence here?

Thanks...
#2
Not a detailed, how-to type of thread..... but here is a compilation of most of the knowledge on the subject.......


I think the consensus is to order an APE tensioner and go manual.....

http://www.vfrdiscus...574#entry721574
#3
Thank you.

Has anyone just plain ignored the sound and continued to ride?  I guess I'm asking if there's a chance of a catostrophic failure?
#4
The link Lee listed has the most information I believe.  

It's quite easy.  Just move the tank over and possibly one hose to gain access to the front tensioner which is the most common one to rattle.  Be Very Careful when removing the tensioners from the head or you can knock the metal cover off of the plunger.


#5

[image: View Post]Alien VFR, on 25 January 2011 - 09:32 PM, said:

Thank you.

Has anyone just plain ignored the sound and continued to ride?  I guess I'm asking if there's a chance of a catostrophic failure?


Yes, several have just kept riding.  It's annoying and even replacing it with a new one is no guarantee.  Mine rattles from time to time since I replaced it.  Highly doubt anything catastrophic would occur.
#6

[image: View Post]Alien VFR, on 25 January 2011 - 09:32 PM, said:

Thank you.

Has anyone just plain ignored the sound and continued to ride?  I guess I'm asking if there's a chance of a catostrophic failure?

its normally the front tentioner that rattle , oil cant easily reach it.

If I ever had to replace a CCT again, id do the manual, but I have no more issuea with the autos.  You might try some striaight 30 weight car oil Like Castrol HD 30 for a few hundred miles, this oil will get up into your cct and no more noise.   Its the body of the tenioner itself that rattles , not the chain.

Ive have perfectly quite tentioners , since running the car oil, and I even started returning to some diesils over the last 15,000 mile, so the car oil coated the internals of the cct. Ive not heard any Klacking in over 40,0000 miles,

I spent $100 on a brand new cct and it almost immediately started rattleing, I was pissed. waste of my time.

That will cost you $12
#7
Yes, you can ignore the sound for a long, long, long time.  I know I did and I also know hondalover did. But why would you when you can throw on an APE manual tensioner in an afternoon and be done?


#8
Just replaced my front one that got noisy again after adjusting it about  8 months ago. The new OEM one is a superceded number and is different. Instead of a metal cap it has a rubber one. Installed it last night, and threw in some spark plugs since tank was off and i have 32k on the clock. No more noise. Maybe honda finally fixed the problem....
#9

[image: View Post]excaliber800abs, on 26 January 2011 - 03:59 PM, said:

Just replaced my front one that got noisy again after adjusting it about  8 months ago. The new OEM one is a superceded number and is different. Instead of a metal cap it has a rubber one. Installed it last night, and threw in some spark plugs since tank was off and i have 32k on the clock. No more noise. Maybe honda finally fixed the problem....
The metal cap is a separate part number.  May not see any ill affects from not having it installed, but just thought you should know that is not the reason for the superseded number.


Myself, like Lee_2002 and a few others I'm sure have put several thousand miles on noisy CCTs.  I think I put around 15-20K on mine before I rolled the dice and bought the APE manual CCT.  I may have been the first brave soul on this forum to try this route, but so far I'm very happy with my choice.
#10
does anyone know why they go out? my 02 has about 35,000 and has never rattled.
#11

[image: View Post]ericlw, on 26 January 2011 - 05:15 PM, said:

does anyone know why they go out? my 02 has about 35,000 and has never rattled.
Most people tend to think that it is a lack of oil getting to the tensioner itself.  Spud786 has done some experimenting with many different oils and claims his became silent with certain automobile based oils.  YMMV.
#12

[image: View Post]excaliber800abs, on 26 January 2011 - 03:59 PM, said:

Just replaced my front one that got noisy again after adjusting it about  8 months ago. The new OEM one is a superceded number and is different. Instead of a metal cap it has a rubber one. Installed it last night, and threw in some spark plugs since tank was off and i have 32k on the clock. No more noise. Maybe honda finally fixed the problem....


Wait, the metal cap goes over the rubber one  sounds like you didnt reinstall the metal cap, the CCT does not come with a new metal cap.

On a side note , there have been those who leave the metal cap off and solved the issue.
#13
OOPS! Thanks for the heads up, luckily i didnt throw old one away, gettin ready to remove new one and install that cap!
#14

[image: View Post]ericlw, on 26 January 2011 - 05:15 PM, said:

does anyone know why they go out? my 02 has about 35,000 and has never rattled.


There's no obvious difference between a Rattler and one that doesnt.   I developed the noise issue on the front tentioner, around 19,000 mile. Id just relocated to a different area, id been running amsoil.  I started running various diesil oils and mobil1 mc oil, and had the intermittant rattle.  KLACK KLACK KLACK KLACK  sounded like crap.  Any way   I tried a few known tricks to add aditional tention on the chain.  This didnt do any good at all.

So around 33,000 mile I said heck with it and installed a new one, It was makking noise possibly after the first day. Kronic heavy noise. I felt cheap, and just bought some in expensive Valvoline, 50 mile later, holy crap no more noise.

So I stay with car oils over the last 40,000 mile, but in the last 15,000 mile Ive gone back to some diesil oils and have no noise issue.   The reason I say the straight 30 weight castrol, once heated its a very thin oil and also wax based, you get a nice coating inside the cct , should be fine afterwards.
#15
Ive gone through more oil than a busy fish and chip shop , Motul, Silkolene, Castrol Edge, Honda GN4 .....The clack on my 04 with 33,000k (Started annoying me at 21,000K) never totally dissapeared until yesterday when I bit the bullet and changed the front tensioner for a new genuine item....14520-MCW-013

All quiet today on the way to,  and home from work...Im loving it...for now. :rolleyes:

Wish I changed it 18 months ago

I hope the quietness lasts.
#16

[image: View Post]Lee 2002, on 25 January 2011 - 09:19 PM, said:

I think the consensus is to order an APE tensioner and go manual.....

Except for the guy who did that, forgot to tighten the lock nut and bent the valves...

He's a member on here too, and even posted about it.
#17
Im not sure if he forgot to tighten or it just came loose, cause when he originally installed , he said he tightened it with  a Crows foot, I specifically asked cause its a tight area.

Some locking compound probably wouldnt hurt
#18
He knowingly left the locknut loose during a testing run.... it was not a failure in any way of the APE cam chain tensioner.
#19

[image: View Post]Lee 2002, on 15 February 2012 - 05:37 PM, said:

He knowingly left the locknut loose during a testing run.... it was not a failure in any way of the APE cam chain tensioner.

Knowingly, why would one do that?
End of thread · 19 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 1 Dec 2012