Over Charging 4th Gen - RR/Stator OK -- WTF?

I realize this topic has been beaten like a dead horse, but I for the life of me I cannot figure out why my system is over charging the battery.

I bought a new battery a few weeks ago after cooking the other one. Took measurement across the battery and the charge was peaking
at 20V. Dropped the new battery in and measured the voltage across the battery and it was 14.5-15V. Yesterday the 3 week old battery
is was dead. Charged it over night and now I'm getting the 20V over charging condition again.

A few years back I threw in a VFRness and it seemed my frying RRs days were over.
Now, rather that having a battery die 100 miles from home, I now have this NEW problem.

So, once again I went through and tested all the components in the system with the following results:

The measured voltage across the battery @ 5000 RPM is 20V
The voltage between the RR outputs to the co-relating battery posts give me .01 V
The resistance between the stators are all .4-.5 ohms
No continuity between each stator wire and engine case
68V between all pairs of the stator wires @ 5000 RPM
Diode tests on the RR is .5V

I'm stumped as all these measurements other than the 20V overcharge condition, are within spec
per ElectroSports trouble shooting guide.

I have noticed lately at night that the headlights dim every so often, I'm guessing something related
to the fans. Speaking of which I was told by someone awhile back that the fans draw a large amount
of current, but I'm not sure if this has any effect on the over charging issue, but was told this was one
cause of the RRs melting down.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!!

The regulator is not regulating -- aka R/R is toast! -- My old 4th gen had the same symtems and new R/R fixed it. Since its been zapping hard on the battery, it may turn out to be toasted too. btw -spend your bucks on a MOSFET or compufire R/R, the OEM one is a waste of money, IMHO

Bad R/R as mentioned! Or bad lead wire to the battery which tells the R/R to stop charging!

[image: View Post]mello dude, on 18 March 2011 - 02:20 PM, said:

The regulator is not regulating -- aka R/R is toast! -- My old 4th gen had the same symtems and new R/R fixed it. Since its been zapping hard on the battery, it may turn out to be toasted too. btw -spend your bucks on a MOSFET or compufire R/R, the OEM one is a waste of money, IMHO



That was my initial thought, but the diode test indicates it's OK.
This is my 3rd and last ElectroSport RR after reading the negative comments on this forum.
When the other 2 RRs failed i was pretty obvious due to the melted plastic enclosure and fried connectors.

Thanks for the tip.

[image: View Post]BaileyRock, on 18 March 2011 - 03:29 PM, said:

Bad R/R as mentioned! Or bad lead wire to the battery which tells the R/R to stop charging!



Lead wire's fine.

Hear's another C-note into the wind...............

[image: View Post]TylerDurden, on 18 March 2011 - 03:41 PM, said:

[image: View Post]BaileyRock, on 18 March 2011 - 03:29 PM, said:

Bad R/R as mentioned! Or bad lead wire to the battery which tells the R/R to stop charging!



Lead wire's fine.

Hear's another C-note into the wind...............


The diode test doesn't tell you if the Regulator part of the regulator/rectifier is working which obviously yours isn't.
The diodes are there to turn ac to dc.

The first rule of regulator rectifiers on VFRs is: it's probably toast. The second rule of regulator rectifiers on VFRs is: it's probably toast. 3rd and fourth gens very similar. I put six on my 90 model. I have the seventh in the shed, on the floor next to the bike, the 4th wiring harness halfway threaded (from the wrong end! Took it off front to back, went to put it on back to front, but should have threaded between frame and engine there on the right side first, from front to back, as the front plugs won't go through between frame and engine!! Agggghhhhhhhh.....)
Get a VFRness, and a Rick's r/r. NOT electrosport. They are not junk, just a reproduction of the original, poorly designed product. See member Tightwad's "wiremybike.com".
Hope you get it sorted!!
Cheers!

[image: View Post]TylerDurden, on 18 March 2011 - 03:40 PM, said:

That was my initial thought, but the diode test indicates it's OK.


The diode test can only prove of the rectifier portion of the R/R is working. It cannot prove if the regulator portion is working, and that's what has failed.

Rmember, the regulator shunts excess power to ground. If it's damaged, it won't shunt enough and you get overcharging.

IF $s are an issue, I used a Suzuki GSXR 750 5 wire R/R on my '97 and have had NO problems going on over 2 years (10,000+ miles). I think I paid $20 shipped off ePrey. Got a volt meter on your bike? Best piece-of-mind addition to the 4h GENs I can think of. (I did the computer fan thing also). You'll get it sorted. :fing02:

If you're seeing 20v, you don't need to do any more tests: your reg/rec is fried. The only question is, what ELSE is fried?

Ciao,