Just got finished installing the VFRness with the fuse box, digital volt meter, Ricks RR and the Blue Connector jumper. Battery replaced with a new one too. Stator replaced in Oct has maybe 1500 miles on it.
When the bike was first started and cold before any products were installed I was getting 14.3 volts. Rode across town to my friends house where we were going to do the install, maybe 7 miles. When I pulled in we checked the volts and I only could get 12.3 volts.
Changed out the RR and no improvement. Same with each step. High beams on and all I can get 12.3. 13ish running only low beams.
Stator has a one year warranty, so she goes to Honda tomorrow to talk to them about stator replacement. Again.
You say that you have a new battery, but was it properly charged before installation? Might be worth checking it (charge, load test, etc...). All electrical connectors and grounds would be another place to look.
If that's not the issue, I really feel your pain. Were I in your shoes I'd go with a Honda rr, because I've heard of too many people having issues with Rick's stuff.
Is your stator from Honda or Rick's?
Hope it's a simple fix for you.
Dealership is saying they THINK it's the RR and that the Ricks RR is a wire/pin short of the factory part. Electrical experts I am looking for feedback.... They are going to put a factory RR on and see how that goes. They love my voltage meter by the way. My mechanic says it's dead on which was my opinion too.
The Rick's RR eliminates the monitor wire. Not sure why but I think it has to do with the fact that it's not a shunt type RR like the OEM, but instead has an internal on/off switch to control current. The OEM just dumps unneeded current to ground.
I was getting ony 13.2 volts with the OEM and installed the Rick's RR.....now getting 14.4. Have only been on one ride since install. Taking a four day trip soon and may carry the OEM as a spare since it was still working........somewhat.
Keep us posted Billy Jack. These electrical gremlins are a pain!! :pissed:
I think the R/R is fine. I am curious what you will find.
With aftermarket electrical parts in the bike, Highly doubt Honda will pay for anything related to the matter , I'd really be shocked.
Should have stayed oEM. ive seen the same thing over and over, create all kind of issues.
The Rick's RR eliminates the monitor wire. Not sure why but I think it has to do with the fact that it's not a shunt type RR like the OEM, but instead has an internal on/off switch to control current. The OEM just dumps unneeded current to ground.
I was getting ony 13.2 volts with the OEM and installed the Rick's RR.....now getting 14.4. Have only been on one ride since install. Taking a four day trip soon and may carry the OEM as a spare since it was still working........somewhat.
Keep us posted Billy Jack. These electrical gremlins are a pain!! :pissed:
A good 6th gen OEM system will have 14.7volt when you test it, if not getting that, theres an issue.
Having said that, the biggest issue on the 6th gen, is the wiring contacts, the RR's are solid, The stators still average well over 50,000 mile, Which is considered above average for a typical motorcycle.
The majority of bikes stators, fail way less than 50,000 mile. I think the Biggest issue on the 6th gen is starting out with good wring prep, always exceptions, but my first oem stator failed at 56,000 mile, the second oem now has near 30,000 mile, my wiring is totally stock and clean other than ensuring the contacts mechanically sound, and tested for PURE continuity, and prepped with wd40 , (no silcone electrical grease).
The Rick's RR eliminates the monitor wire. Not sure why but I think it has to do with the fact that it's not a shunt type RR like the OEM, but instead has an internal on/off switch to control current. The OEM just dumps unneeded current to ground.
The ONLY non-shunt reg/recs are the series-type made by CompuFire and Cycle Electric. I just checked--Rick's does not sell them. The "newer" type of shunt reg/rec uses MOSFET technology, but they still shunt excess current to ground and produce heat.
Ciao,
For me the fix was Tightwad's VFRness, and then cutting out the big, white stator-R/R connector and using crimp on connectors to splice it all together. Has worked like a champ since. My white connector melted into a wad of goo BTW. As others (search for Kaldek's posts) have noted, that connector in particular is crap.
NOW READ THIS...It is something certain Official Honda mechanic's have used as part of the solution to the VTEC wiring problem over here in Spain... we just do it at home DIY, to save cash... the monitoring wire means poop... 1998-1999 R/Rs don't have a monitoring wire... ok, they do fry as well but VTEC R/Rs with the monitoring wire also fry... I've been through umpteen R/Rs... tried them all... the latest Mofset one I bought from Tightwad has been the best so far at keeping cool... but I also did the BYC mod... (and the blue connector... and the VFRness, which I am currently not running.. long story on that one...)
DO THE BYC FIX!!!