And Now For Something Completely Different...

So, my A&A supercharged FiY is almost completely back together. Only, it won't start... :mad:

I'm not sure the attached .MOV file will work, but what's happening is that when the starter button is pushed, the starter spins the engine and it makes a regular little "pop", seemingly every 1/2 second. If I roll on the throttle whilst doing this, the pops increase in pace, but the engine never really makes an effort to start.

I have swapped out the PGM-FI unit with a known-good one, replaced the ignition pulse sensor (under the RHS crankcase cover) with a probable-good one and removed the Power Commander V from the equation. I have also tested the wires from the ignition pulse sensor back to the PGM-FI and they are good. For good measure, I tested the cam position sensor wires as well.

The rear plugs (at least) are getting sparks (I didn't check the front cyls). There is bit of a gasoline smell from the lovely new underseat exhausts, but not a whole lot. The fuel pump can be heard powering up (and is new), and the FI light on the dash turns off within a few seconds of turning on the key.

I think this is ignition-related, but I'm running out of things to test! (I have moved the PGM-FI unit and its wires around quite a bit, trying to find the best place to mount it and route the wires, but have only tested a few of the wires for continuity.)

FYI, I initially focused on the ignition pulse sensor because the PGM-FI unit gave me a "19" code when I put it into test mode. However, after I tried to "clear" the stored error code (to see if it would reproduce), I no longer get any error codes--just a solid FI warning light when I put it into test mode. That's when I tried a different PGM-FI unit, but I didn't put that one into test mode for fear of breaking it!

Any ideas would be most appreciated.

[The .MOV file won't embed, and directly accessing it seems to cause it to hang. Try downloading this to your desktop and then playing it: popcornthemovie]

Cheers,

Sounds like your ignition timing is off. Did you plug the coils in correctly? You could be getting the spark sent to cylinders on exhaust stroke rather than compression stroke.

When you say "test mode" you mean you bridged the Service connector with a piece of wire? The solid red light means no codes are stored.

I'm pretty sure both the Ignition Pulse generator and Cam Pulse generator are in the same spot - you didn't connect them into the wrong plugs did you? I think they're colour coded. Getting them wrong would make the engine think the cam is spinning twice as fast as the crank. Heh.

This is what Honda says to do:

1. Disconnect the Ignition Pulse Generator
   
2. Ensure the cam pulse generator is connected securely
   
3. Crank the engine for 10 seconds
   
4. If the FI light does NOT blink, your CAM pulse generator isn't working
   
5. If the FI light DOES blink (code 19), make sure the ignition pulse generator is disconnected and do a continuity test between the white/yellow wire and ground
   
6. If there is continuity, your pulse generator is stuffed.
   

The reason you disconnect the Ignition pulse generator first, is that a signal from the Cam pulse at the same time as NO signal from the Ignition pulse generator is how it determines that "yeah, the engine is spinning (I can see the cam going round) but I can't see the crank going round". In essence there should be 2 crank pulses for every 1 cam pulse.

Anyway, after this Honda tell you to perform a peak voltage check. You would need to wire a multimeter with peak voltage detection into the two-pin ignition pulse connector going to the crankcase, and look for a 0.7 volt peak (each crank rotation generates a 0.7 volt spike/pulse). If you don't have a peak voltage detector, a very sensitive analogue multimeter in the 2000 millivolt range could possibly be used as you might see the needle twitching.

The other thing I'm considering is your ignition timing wheel. This little doo-dad is right behind the right crank-case cover where you installed the driving pulley for the supercharger. When you removed the bolt and reinstalled it, did you have any problems in that area? If the timing wheel was knocked out of alignment it would cause the engine to fire the spark either early or late.

Depending on HOW late/early, it could cause the ECU to flash code 19....

Check out the image of the pulse generator here form the parts list:

Pulse Generator 2000 VFR

It's item #8 - "Rotor, Pulse". Note how it's held in place by the very bolt you have removed and replaced to install the supercharger pulley.

In my manual (2002 model), it says "align the wide groove in the rotor with the wide groove in the crankshaft". You'd think that means it only fits on one way. Hmmm.

Other ideas - air supply? Is it possible to get the plumbing wrong, so that the bike would be starved of air? I don't know where the supercharger pulls its air from - a good starting test would be to open up the plenum to atmosphere just to see if it's getting air. If the bike starts, you know it wasn't not getting air and you can forget all the ignition stuff and focus on that.

kaldek

Sounds like your ignition timing is off. Did you plug the coils in correctly? You could be getting the spark sent to cylinders on exhaust stroke rather than compression stroke.

Thanks for the input!

I didn't mess with the front cylinders' coils at all, but now that you mention it, I suppose I could have mixed up the rear two (they needed to be relocated when I removed the airbox and installed the supercharger kit). I'll check that tomorrow.

kaldekWhen you say "test mode" you mean you bridged the Service connector with a piece of wire? The solid red light means no codes are stored.

Yes. I guess that meaning is a good thing, but it still don't work!

kaldekI'm pretty sure both the Ignition Pulse generator and Cam Pulse generator are in the same spot - you didn't connect them into the wrong plugs did you? I think they're colour coded. Getting them wrong would make the engine think the cam is spinning twice as fast as the crank. Heh.

Yes, they are both in the same spot, but one is red and the other white (ISTR), so difficult to mix up.

kaldekThis is what Honda says to do:

1. Disconnect the Ignition Pulse Generator
   
2. Ensure the cam pulse generator is connected securely
   
3. Crank the engine for 10 seconds
   
4. If the FI light does NOT blink, your CAM pulse generator isn't working
   
5. If the FI light DOES blink (code 19), make sure the ignition pulse generator is disconnected and do a continuity test between the white/yellow wire and ground
   
6. If there is continuity, your pulse generator is stuffed.
   

The reason you disconnect the Ignition pulse generator first, is that a signal from the Cam pulse at the same time as NO signal from the Ignition pulse generator is how it determines that "yeah, the engine is spinning (I can see the cam going round) but I can't see the crank going round". In essence there should be 2 crank pulses for every 1 cam pulse.

Another thing to try tomorrow!

kaldekAnyway, after this Honda tell you to perform a peak voltage check. You would need to wire a multimeter with peak voltage detection into the two-pin ignition pulse connector going to the crankcase, and look for a 0.7 volt peak (each crank rotation generates a 0.7 volt spike/pulse). If you don't have a peak voltage detector, a very sensitive analogue multimeter in the 2000 millivolt range could possibly be used as you might see the needle twitching.

I hope it doesn't come to that, because I have no practical way of doing this test!

kaldek

The other thing I'm considering is your ignition timing wheel. This little doo-dad is right behind the right crank-case cover where you installed the driving pulley for the supercharger. When you removed the bolt and reinstalled it, did you have any problems in that area? If the timing wheel was knocked out of alignment it would cause the engine to fire the spark either early or late.

Depending on HOW late/early, it could cause the ECU to flash code 19....

Check out the image of the pulse generator here form the parts list:

Pulse Generator 2000 VFR

It's item #8 - "Rotor, Pulse". Note how it's held in place by the very bolt you have removed and replaced to install the supercharger pulley.

In my manual (2002 model), it says "align the wide groove in the rotor with the wide groove in the crankshaft". You'd think that means it only fits on one way. Hmmm.

You are quite right about that, but I checked it (it only fits one way) when I swapped ignition pulse generators from another bike.

I can't see air supply being an issue, either, as there is just a huge K&N filter on the intake side of the Rotrex unit--nothing to block the air intake that I can see.

Right now I'm thinking that those rear coils could be the culprits... Tbh, I wasn't really paying attention to their position--it was surprisingly difficult to get them mounted to the back of the intake plate, and I don't recall even thinking about which was which. :blush:

Cheers,

JZH

I didn't mess with the front cylinders' coils at all, but now that you mention it, I suppose I could have mixed up the rear two (they needed to be relocated when I removed the airbox and installed the supercharger kit).

Isn't the '98-'01 a wasted-spark system where one coil fires two cylinders, or is it one coil per cylinder just like the 6th-gen?

Mate, just listened to your video again with some headphones on and it really does sound like one bank is firing and the other isn't. Given the firing order of the VFR it's like Fire-Miss-Fire-Miss if the rear bank isn't wired up right.

Should we take bets on it being those coils mixed up? :biggrin:

kaldek

Mate, just listened to your video again with some headphones on and it really does sound like one bank is firing and the other isn't. Given the firing order of the VFR it's like Fire-Miss-Fire-Miss if the rear bank isn't wired up right.

Should we take bets on it being those coils mixed up? :biggrin:

You would have lost! (Why is there no "crying" emoticon? I really need to cry!)

I was so hoping that was it, but I've now checked and double-checked and all four coils are wired correctly (at least, consistently--I don't see any + or - markings on them). Moreover, I've traced each of the four wires and all have good connections to the PGM-FI unit. However, I still think the problem is timing-related, so I'll keep testing until there's nothing left to test...

Ciao,

[Just finished more testing. I note that only the #3 cylinder is firing "properly", or at least popping properly... If I disconnect the #3 coil, nothing pops at all.

Following the procedures outlined in the Haynes manual, I checked the throttle sensor, the fuel cut-off relay, the engine stop relay, the engine stop sensor, the atmospheric pressure sensor, the MAP sensor, the cam pulse generator and the ignition pulse generator (but not the peak voltage of the latter two,as I don't have the tools). I did not fully test the intake air sensor, as it is underneath the throttle bodies, nor did I test the injectors (though they were freshly professionally cleaned) or the speed sensor.

This bike is a California model, and during the process of installing the supercharger I have removed the variable intake system control valve, the purge control solenoid valve and the pulse secondary air control valve (as well as all of the PAIR and California-specific equipment and vacuum lines--now plugged). None of the associated connectors have been terminated; they have simply been wire-tied out of the way. Finally, the O2 sensors have been removed and Power Commander terminators (resistors) installed.

I am running out of ideas!]

JZHI am running out of ideas!]

Geez, so am I. OK let's have a think about fuel for a minute.

Did your kit come with a replacement fuel pressure regulator? We should do a fuel delivery check. This is a bit of a redneck test, but if you can pop the throttle bodies off, you lift them up and shove a large piece of paper towel under them so the throttle bodies are sitting on it. Then you crank the engine for a couple of seconds and stop, remove the paper towel and confirm there are four wet marks on it. That pretty much takes care of a basic fuel delivery test.

If that's too much to ask, you can go super redneck and take a piece of paper towel and cut four thin slivers off it. Then you stick one down each intake tract (one test at a time!) with the throttle held open enough so that it doesn't cut the paper towel. Again, crank the bike for a few seconds and stop, remove the paper towel and it should be wet. Repeat for all cylinders.

kaldek

JZHI am running out of ideas!]

Geez, so am I. OK let's have a think about fuel for a minute.

Did your kit come with a replacement fuel pressure regulator? We should do a fuel delivery check. This is a bit of a redneck test, but if you can pop the throttle bodies off, you lift them up and shove a large piece of paper towel under them so the throttle bodies are sitting on it. Then you crank the engine for a couple of seconds and stop, remove the paper towel and confirm there are four wet marks on it. That pretty much takes care of a basic fuel delivery test.

If that's too much to ask, you can go super redneck and take a piece of paper towel and cut four thin slivers off it. Then you stick one down each intake tract (one test at a time!) with the throttle held open enough so that it doesn't cut the paper towel. Again, crank the bike for a few seconds and stop, remove the paper towel and it should be wet. Repeat for all cylinders.

Kudos to Kaldek for all his debug ideas! :fing02:

--- I dont like to do debug by forum, I'm a hands on touchy/feelling smell it guy. But - - This may or may not be a good suggestion. I watched the video, and when you switched the fuel pump on, it seemed to spin faster than normal, like there was no fuel. Dunno where to go with this, but can you prime the fuel pump, then check pressure? (Gas in tank, yes? sry to ask)

Good luck - I'm routing for you!

Because you removed the cam pulse sensor and played with the crank... are you sure you reinstalled the new pulse sensor with the correct crank angle?

Vee-Ef-Ar

Because you removed the cam pulse sensor and played with the crank... are you sure you reinstalled the new pulse sensor with the correct crank angle?

That was one of my thoughts. It's hard to get it wrong, considering the crank sensor itself is mounted in one position and the timing wheel only fits on one way. If he can't solve it soon, it might need to be a case of starting from the ground up with all relevant components, checking them all in detail to make sure they are set in accordance with the service manual.

kaldek

Vee-Ef-Ar

Because you removed the cam pulse sensor and played with the crank... are you sure you reinstalled the new pulse sensor with the correct crank angle?

That was one of my thoughts. It's hard to get it wrong, considering the crank sensor itself is mounted in one position and the timing wheel only fits on one way. If he can't solve it soon, it might need to be a case of starting from the ground up with all relevant components, checking them all in detail to make sure they are set in accordance with the service manual.

Well, I gave up.

At least, for now. Mainly because I had to go back to London and didn't relish the idea of tearing everything apart two days before flying home. I did add another can of petrol, which added a bar to the tank indicator, but little else.

The fuel pump is a brand new one, supplied by A&A (presumably higher capacity or pressure), so that could explain the different sound. Or, there could be a fuel problem. Maybe all of the injectors are clogged--except #3? Why would #3 "pop" and the others not?

Actually, I swapped the ignition pulse generator, not the cam pulse generator, but in any case it is impossible to re-install the timing wheel-thing wrong, as it only fits onto the crank one way. The sensor bolts to the RHS crankcase cover, and there is no way to screw that up. (Actually, there is--you could mount it in a different position--no idea why there is a second set of mounting holes--but I installed it in the same position as the original one, and the same problem was there before I did that anyway.)

Thanks for the troubleshooting help...but I'm not exactly looking forward to dealing with this in a couple of months.

Ciao,

JZH nothing could be more frustrating than bolting on something you have such high expectations for & then bike won't start. Now without being super technical looking at every possible problem with the ignition system I will suggest simple fix, for example before you started to strip bike to fit kit did bike run. I'm sure the answer is yes so do a process of reverse engineering to look at what you did in fitting kit that may cause the problem because if bike ran beforehand then all the ignition system should be fine. Have you simply tried spraying some motor start spray down the throttle bodies because I have had your problem a few times after doing major work on motor removing tank etc & bike wouldn't start except for some popping like yours. It took at times a few charges of the battery & some motor start spray to fire up first time then all was good, like there was some type of vapor lock & engine needed to run to clear.

Did you have the bike running in it's stock configuration before you began the teardown for the SC install?

Yes, the bike was running, but it's been a while. It was in storage for two years. But the usual storage-related problems would seem to have been precluded by the parts I've replaced: I installed a professionally cleaned set of injectors into the original throttle bodies and, as part of the A&A kit, replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump and air filter (and, of course, the fuel). However, I did not thoroughly clean the rest of the throttle bodies--don't know what I was thinking! Maybe I thought I would do it later--one of the problems of working on this project only sporadically. So, I suppose the throttle bodies themselves could be gunked up.

The engine start spray sounds like a good idea; I just don't hold out much hope for it.

There is no way around it, either I wash my hands and put the bike up for a quick sale at $3,000, or I take off the supercharger and the throttle bodies and systematically check every aspect of the installation the next time I'm back in California. (I'm only joking about selling the bike, btw!)

Ciao,

It would have been wise to have started bike before fitting kit, you have replaced so many parts it has now become a mine field of possible problems. If you didn't replace plugs that & some engine start spray down the throttle bodies would be my first port of call.

I'll take that Old Crock off your hands for 3k. ;-)

John, I looked and looked for similar problems online, and I found a decent number of people who have nearly identical problems to you, but they were never solved. I did come across this thread which might be of interest, though.

Also, have you checked all the fuses? One guy I found traced his starting problem to a bad fuse pertaining to the HISS system.

Did you pull any plug to see if it was wet? I'm starting to wonder if something isn't connected properly with either the pump assembly or the fuel rail / fuel lines. Obviously the pump is wired correctly (and sounds great, btw), but something is still amiss here. Who did your injector cleaning? They didn't insert some kind of protective cap into the injector entry, did they?

toro1

John, I looked and looked for similar problems online, and I found a decent number of people who have nearly identical problems to you, but they were never solved. I did come across this thread which might be of interest, though.

Also, have you checked all the fuses? One guy I found traced his starting problem to a bad fuse pertaining to the HISS system.

Did you pull any plug to see if it was wet? I'm starting to wonder if something isn't connected properly with either the pump assembly or the fuel rail / fuel lines. Obviously the pump is wired correctly (and sounds great, btw), but something is still amiss here. Who did your injector cleaning? They didn't insert some kind of protective cap into the injector entry, did they?

It really would not have been practical to stop and check if the bike still ran after fitting each new kit component. Once I started the install, I was pretty much committed to finishing it as outlined in the kit instructions. I did do the exhaust and a bunch of other little things at the same time (which were avoidable), but they should not have caused the problems I'm having now.

Fuses were all pulled and checked. Although I was a bit cheeky and fitted a second-hand HISS transponder ring to the triple clamp, it isn't connected to anything so it couldn't be having any effect, could it?!? No way.

Did not pull any plugs or do any other fuel tests as suggested above, so I don't know for sure that the throttle bodies are working properly. Indeed, it is starting to look like bad fueling is a strong contender as the cause of these symptoms. The injectors were cleaned by a company here in the UK. I bought a second-hand set of throttle bodies and had the injectors cleaned in advance of one of my previous trips to California. I don't recall any sort of caps being present.

When I go back, I will pull the compressor, plenium and the throttle bodies and check the entire fuel system, as well as the vacuum lines and anything else I can see. Oh, joy!

Thanks for everyone's help on this. I'm sure I will solve it eventually--I just had hoped that point would have arrived last week!

Ciao,

Nothing to contribute except some encouragement here.

I know that when things like this happen to me, I say to myself that resolving them is just a matter of time. It really is - The solution has to mature in your head and it just takes some time.

Of course, often as not, the culprit turns out to be the stupidest of things, which has been overlooked just for the reason that it is... The stupidest of things.

Any way, all this is part of fun IMHO. Enjoy the challenge. You have a lot to look forward to and having this challenge will make you appreciate it even more.

Hey buddy, I just realised my latest Frankenstein experiment will help diagnose if your ignition pulse generator is faulty at all - an oscilloscope!

Only $60 too!! It's the DSO Nano, go check it out.

Latest update: No update...

I'm in California, but have had no time over the last two weeks to do anything on the bike apart from fashion a license plate mount! Bugger. I'm getting on a plane to HK tonight, where I will eventually be joined by five of my motorbikes and the contents of my London garage (none of which currently have anywhere to live, btw). I might get back here in June or July, but whether I will have any free time then is another question. Hey, this is LA, so I wonder if there's some kind of reality TV show I can call to help me get this bike running!?! :tongue:

Ciao,

the trials and tribulations of the jetset eh? :)

That's a shame mate.

Was looking forward to some good news.

I would also go the starter spray.

Least she'll tell ya bout the timing and or fuel.

I'd also look into the wax unit... maybe it can be manually adjusted... Ranger might know.

I'm sure you tried to start her with an open throttle?

If you let these VFRs sit around, they can be a bit finicky to start.

HK huh, so we might see you down here for a holiday (and a ride) sometime? :tour:

Fly into Melbourne, hire bike, ride to Phillip Island WSB or MotoGP...

we've got 2 trackdays at PI in September 2012 - perfect for a flying visit from someone :)

This is going to sound pretty stupid, but I've just realised this problem is exactly the same as when you forget to ground your Power commander, or accidentally connect the ground to the positive lead on the battery (seen that too).

Because the Powercommander takes over the ground switching of the injectors, it needs a solid ground for it to use for this switching. If you don't have the ground connected, it is able to occasionally ground out an injector when the ECU grounds it, and so you get the occasional "pop".

I honestly don't know why I didn't think of this earlier.

Unplug the power commander completely and see if the bike will at least start on the OEM FI only?

Unplugging the PCV was tried a long time ago. Nah, I think the problem is that there's something not plugged in under the T-bodies. I just haven't had time to pull them (and the supercharger, which sits on top of them...)

Anyway, I'd love to get the family over to Oz one of these days, but I won't have any hols for a fair bit. We'd definitely like to visit other countries "in the neighborhood", too, including of course, the obligatory pilgrimage to Japan!

I'll resurrect this thread when I get some time with the bike.

Ciao,

Egads, the thought of you, unchaperoned, roaming the Ueno district scares me.

You'll buy a buncha cool stuff, shoot pics of it, post it here, and we'll all hate you!

Nothing good can come of it!

http://thenewcaferacersociety.blogspot.com/2007/11/lets-go-uneo-motorcycle-district-japan.html

Ha...my luck would be to find the kill switch off......I don't remember being that mad at myself before or since...

I've heard Ueno isn't what it used to be, but I'm not planning on letting that stop me! HK is a lot like that, btw, though I have not yet had a chance to see the motorbike areas I've heard about on the ex-pat boards. In countries like Japan and China, certain areas of the city become concentrated with a certain type of shop, whether it be furniture, or electronics, or motorbikes, so shopping becomes a rather intense experience. "Fistful of Yen", oh, yeah...

Ciao,

Almost exactly one year after I started this topic, I'm back in the USA and tackling this problem again...

Some progress to report after a few hours fiddling in the garage this afternoon. Firstly, it runs!

Unfortunately, only on one cylinder... :sad:

I pulled the plenium chamber off the throttle bodies, leaving most everything else (not related to the Rotrex) connected and thumbed the starter. With the butterflies held open, I could clearly see fuel being injected into cylinder #3--but not into any of the others. That adequately explains the non-running and the popping I'd noted last year, so the timing issue is likely a red herring.

Next step was to pull the throttle bodies off and have a look underneath for any clue as to why only cylinder #3 is getting fuel. I did find a split vacuum line (the one that has the restrictor for the MAP sensor), so I would have had to pull the throttle bodies anyway to fix that (assuming I'd have even discovered that problem!). This was in one of the new blue silicone vacuum lines I'd installed when I upgraded the water lines--maybe the silicone just didn't like swallowing that restrictor pill? Rather then using another piece of blue silicone, I replaced the vacuum line with one of the OEM rubber ones, just in case.

Unfortunately, I found all of the injector wires and lines apparently intact--so there is still no obvious reason why only cylinder #3 is getting fuel.

I suppose the next step will be to do some swapping, to see if I can get any of the other injectors to fire. As I mentioned way above somewhere, the injectors were professionally cleaned, but I didn't otherwise clean the throttle bodies when I installed them or the A&A kit. It could be that there is some dirt in the fuel rails or something, which is blocking the other three injectors...maybe? I know--all three being completely blocked does seem a bit unlikely.

Any other ideas at this point, gents?

Cheers,

Hey - your back- nothing to ad but ---- good luck. Routing for you!

It wouldn't be the first time one or more 5th gen injectors got stuck. I don't normally recommend a hammer as a motorcycle repair tool, much less as a first suggestion, but it may be an appropriate attempt in this case.

Is there a PCIII on the bike? If so disconect the pcIII harness completely from the bike and put it back to stock. If you still have the problem you can rule out the PC causeing the issue.

Do you have a noid light that you can tap into the injectors with to see if they are getting signal?

Yeah I'd go looking for an injector signal or, as you said swap connectors to other injectors.

Did you ever have the cams out?

Have you tried the old ECU and pulse sensor?

Went to Ueno earlier this year... disappointing.

Swapping the injectors around to see if they fire and may be a driver problem is a good idea. Last time I dealt with a professional injector place and cleaned/reman'd injectors. The injectors wouldn't fire with a standard 3ms pulse which is standard for starting. They wanted 10ms pulse to even start to open and spray fuel.

The other thing thats common for injectors that have been worked on/cleaned, especially when they have sat for a while afterwards. Is for the injectors to be stuck shut from sitting and not having fuel running through them. Most of the time this can be cured by tapping on the injector with a screwdriver handle, or whatever you can use, while trying to start the engine.

Guess what?

http://www.vsource.o...ds/P1030345.MOV

:woohoo:

From the un-effin'-believable department: After I swapped injector #3 with #1, spray-cleaned the throttle bodies until my eyes were crossed from the fumes, re-installed everything and thumbed the starter, I still had a "V1", but now it was firing only cylinder #1. That could only mean one thing, so I got out a suitable heavy implement and began tapping on the injectors. Sure enough, I soon had a V2, and then a V3 and finally a V4 again! So all this time, all this anguish, swapped parts and copious swearing and it was stuck injectors all along. :blink:

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and moral support over the past year! You guys are the best. :smile:

Cheers,

effn cool ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, :fing02:

Congrats!!!! looking forward to a ride report real soon....

:wheel:

JZH

The fuel pump is a brand new one, supplied by A&A (presumably higher capacity or pressure), so that could explain the different sound. Or, there could be a fuel problem. Maybe all of the injectors are clogged--except #3?

Hilarious! I had the answer over a year ago! :ohmy:

What can I say? It's Willer Time! :beer:

(See you on the Beware of the Yellow Peril thread.)

Ciao,